dtr20 Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Hi all, I was thinking about building a triangle subwoofer to mimic the rt-12d or rt-10d (I think I can build it cheaper than purchasing it). I have a corner spot in my living room that would be perfect, but there is an oversized chair kiddycorner there. I could easily put a sub there and it would pass the wife's approval because she wouldn't be able to see it. My concern is putting a sub right behind a chair like that. Would the chair absorb too much sound? It would also be sitting underneath a corner table with a lamp and a couple of pictures. I figured I may need to put dynomat on the underside of the table. Would this be worth doing? This would be too run along with my cambridge soundworks psw1 master and slave set. They sound great, but I'm curious of I could get to lower frequencies with this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 It would be a heck of a lot easier to build a cube. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) It would be easier, but I am more limited with a cube because of the corner. Edited March 7, 2016 by dtr20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 It may work and it may not be the best spot for the sub. If you have a sub, try it there and do the sub crawl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) My concern is putting a sub right behind a chair like that. Would the chair absorb too much sound? It would also be sitting underneath a corner table with a lamp and a couple of pictures. The minimum thickness of a sound absorption material that would be effective at 80 Hz or higher frequencies is about 42 inches thick, or a cavity of about that length behind an absorption surface - like a corner bass trap. The answer to your question is: no, you have no issues with absorption. It will behave as if nothing is there in front of it. The real issue will probably be the stiffness of the wallboard/plaster surfaces within about a metre of the sub's radiating drivers. Chris Edited March 7, 2016 by Chris A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) Would this be worth doing? No. It sounds like you think the driver needs to be facing into the center of the room and it doesn't as sub sound is omni-directional. Build a standard cube and put it parallel to the wall where it would fit in nice and snug. You could fire it into the wall or into the open room, whichever sounds best to you. If you want to go non-standard, build a down-firing sub and dress it up like an end table. Edited March 7, 2016 by wvu80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 As you can see in the pictures, I don't have a ton of room to work with as far as a cube goes. I have about 19 inches between the legs and about 21 inches of height clearance. I don't want to add a subwoofer just because, I want to add one that can produce lower frequencies that my Cambridge Soundworks PSW1 master and slave cannot. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Can you go higher than that table? If so, build a triangular box, front facing driver, bottom slot port. Tune it to 20 Hz or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 I can't go higher than the table unless I put the sub behind my tv and replaced my existing subs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 https://community.klipsch.com/uploads/monthly_03_2016/post-59027-0-23080000-1456964632.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Replace existing subs. That's my vote. Coming from a previous RT-10d owner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 My vote is to build a sonotube sub and cover it with carpet for the cat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 Replace existing subs. That's my vote. Coming from a previous RT-10d owner So if you were running an rt-10d, what are you running now? Is it that much better than the triangle sub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 (edited) Paradigm makes a sub that would fit. Also, you could consider an Infinite Baffle (IB) setup. CECAA850 can help you out with that. Edited March 8, 2016 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Replace existing subs. That's my vote. Coming from a previous RT-10d ownerSo if you were running an rt-10d, what are you running now? Is it that much better than the triangle sub?had it for about six months. Was a good little sub. But it was just that. Little. Didn't play really deep. If you want deep bass you need either a big cabinet or a smaller sealed big excursion woofer. Moved to a Svs PC-12 plus, then to some other various subs. Currently running some smaller horn subs but am working on a large sealed 15" sub. Then after that a pair of 18" subs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted March 9, 2016 Moderators Share Posted March 9, 2016 I purchased these pair of RT-10d...they sounded ok but the pair of them didn't have the slam that a single RSW-15's did. The other thing I did not care for is they tend to "walk" because of their shape. But cosmetically....they are gorgeous! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) I like this article which talks about sub design, and cuts through the BS. It's called Hoffman's Iron Law "the efficiency of a woofer system is directly proportional to its cabinet volume and to the cube of its cutoff frequency". http://www.salksound.com/wp/?p=56 This is important to you because you want a great sub in a tiny space. That means: A: Infinite Baffle which uses a wall, a floor or a ceiling as a baffle and the space behind it as the enclosure. You can utterly hide a sub and yet have results that will demolish anything you can spend money on. Carl (CECAA850) is pretty much the resident expert in these parts. B: Disguise the sub AKA a cat scratch pole or even an end table, etc. Dave and I mentioned this. C: Live with a bigger sub as scrappy and youth are mentioning. Edited March 9, 2016 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 The other thing I did not care for is they tend to "walk" because of their shape. This is a separate sub species of subwoofer. Sounds very fishy. We have walking snakehead fish in parts of the Great Lakes region. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 I was hoping we were designing one of these. http://www.theaudiobeat.com/ces2010/ces2010_hp_paradigm.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Just a measley $3,500 for the Sub 1 and $7,500 for the Sub 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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