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Mr._Music_Fan

New to me speakers - '95 LaScala Industrial

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Alex, I would think that Mookie's advice to thin with a bit of water is good, and certainly do a test patch.  However, what I also found when working with mine is that you want to get your preferred texture finalized quickly, as the Duratex tends to dry quite fast, and if you roll over it again after it's started to dry, you will attain a not so great rough/sharp texture.  Also, probably don't need to say this, but....work from the "inside, out..." meaning, do the tough parts on the far backside/inside of the doghouse first, so that you're not reaching over already coated areas to get back there.....and remember about the final roller "strokes" that should have very little pressure applied, and in the same direction....have fun!

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Hey guys!

 

I finally had some time to get started on my LSi rehab.  I have found some interesting things, learned a whole lot more about these speakers and developed a TON more appreciation for those who do this regularly (and making such beautiful LS creations), such as Matthews.

 

I have started on one box, and so far found out the following:

  • tweeter was a motorola piezo tweeter - I believe it is a KSN 1025.
  • tweeter cutout?!?!? Previous owner cut some additional space to enlargen the tweeter fitting. Spakle time... to fill up the cutaway.
  • my KV-55M driver was a bit loose to the 401 horn
  • my 401 horn wont come out of the top box/bin due to this screwy 3/4 inch lip that apparently is magically held in place (without any visible screws)
  • my K43-K driver only had 5 or 6 screws, which were loose, holding the driver to the bass bin.
  • my K43-K driver's dust cap fell off

This is exciting and am I taking as many non-boring pictures as I can to document the process, should anyone else be interested.

 

So couple of questions for the gang:

 

a. is it a problem that my KV-55M was loose to the 401?  How tight should it be to the 401?

b. any ideas what is holding that pesky 3/4 inch lip in the upper bin?

c. How many screws should the K43-K should have? And am I correct that these suckers should be tighten to tight as heck?

d. Feedback on my K43-K.

 

Look forward to hearing from yall.

 

-Alex

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Not sure what you mean by a ''lip'' holding the horn got a pic of that ?  The driver should have a rubber washer ....now is hard I'm sure...but the driver should be tight. The woofer should have screws in all the holes and tight screws.

  Looks like the tweeter hole is fine and the woofer cap can just be glued back on.

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8 hours ago, Mr._Music_Fan said:

Hey guys!

 

I finally had some time to get started on my LSi rehab.  I have found some interesting things, learned a whole lot more about these speakers and developed a TON more appreciation for those who do this regularly (and making such beautiful LS creations), such as Matthews.

 

I have started on one box, and so far found out the following:

  • tweeter was a motorola piezo tweeter - I believe it is a KSN 1025.
  • tweeter cutout?!?!? Previous owner cut some additional space to enlargen the tweeter fitting. Spakle time... to fill up the cutaway.
  • my KV-55M driver was a bit loose to the 401 horn
  • my 401 horn wont come out of the top box/bin due to this screwy 3/4 inch lip that apparently is magically held in place (without any visible screws)
  • my K43-K driver only had 5 or 6 screws, which were loose, holding the driver to the bass bin.
  • my K43-K driver's dust cap fell off

This is exciting and am I taking as many non-boring pictures as I can to document the process, should anyone else be interested.

 

So couple of questions for the gang:

 

a. is it a problem that my KV-55M was loose to the 401?  How tight should it be to the 401?

b. any ideas what is holding that pesky 3/4 inch lip in the upper bin?

c. How many screws should the K43-K should have? And am I correct that these suckers should be tighten to tight as heck?

d. Feedback on my K43-K.

 

Look forward to hearing from yall.

 

-Alex

imageedit_2_2143600113.jpg

imageedit_0_3678990881.jpg

imageedit_2_4404523484.jpg

imageedit_1_3979483168.jpg

imageedit_0_3701335005.jpg

imageedit_0_2996157743.jpg

imageedit_1_2765245456.jpg

imageedit_0_8476618736.jpg

I have started on one box, and so far found out the following:

  • tweeter was a motorola piezo tweeter - I believe it is a KSN 1025.  Ditch those, and get Crites CT-120
  • tweeter cutout?!?!? Previous owner cut some additional space to enlargen the tweeter fitting. Spakle time... to fill up the cutaway.
  • my KV-55M driver was a bit loose to the 401 horn  Get the driver to horn washers from Crites.  Hand tighten modestly, do not crank them down.
  • my 401 horn wont come out of the top box/bin due to this screwy 3/4 inch lip that apparently is magically held in place (without any visible screws)  Gently work it back and forth to loosen.  Probably an old hardened rubber washer that's holding it in.  
  • my K43-K driver only had 5 or 6 screws, which were loose, holding the driver to the bass bin.  First, I would remove the K43, check it for any other damage, and put a multimeter to it to make sure it's not blown.  6 screws is fine, as long as they are tight.  If you really crank them down, you run the risk of stripping them or the hole.  Be judicious.  While you have them out, replace the dust cap..
  • my K43-K driver's dust cap fell off

This is exciting and am I taking as many non-boring pictures as I can to document the process, should anyone else be interested.

 

So couple of questions for the gang:  See above

 

a. is it a problem that my KV-55M was loose to the 401?  How tight should it be to the 401?

b. any ideas what is holding that pesky 3/4 inch lip in the upper bin?

c. How many screws should the K43-K should have? And am I correct that these suckers should be tighten to tight as heck?

d. Feedback on my K43-K.

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Alex,

My LS woofers were only held in place with four machine screws (#10-24) into t-nuts. I have an LS clone that the builder just used wood screws. I have ended up making new baffles to fit inside out of 1/2 inch ply with t-nuts for all 8 holes. once mounted in the box, the t-nuts won't be coming out.

 

While not mentioned, you can get the woofer dust caps from P.E.

 

Depending on what you replace the tweeter with, you could also mount from the front and not have to do so much clean up around the cutout.

 

I'm soooo far behind on getting mine done.

ls_baffle_sm.jpg

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25 minutes ago, Marvel said:

My LS woofers were only held in place with four machine screws (#10-24) into t-nuts.

Same here.

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Dear Comrades!

 

Sorry to have been MIA for a while, I was in a pretty nasty auto accident and got T'boned.  Thus, I am finally being able to get around to resume my work on my LSi's.  I will be posting new pics after dinner.  Today was very productive, I was able to get both of the K43's installed back into the doghouse. I tested the K43 to ensure I connected the leads correctly and one of the woofers was coming in at 6ohms, and the other one is 3.8 ohms.  For clarity purposes, I am measuring the woofers directly at the connection spot in the top box, not using the crossovers. Shouldn't both be about 4 ohms? Should I be worried/concerned about the woofer measuring at 6 ohms? If so, what can I do to fix this?

 

Thanks in advance all.

 

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1 hour ago, Mr._Music_Fan said:

Sorry to have been MIA for a while, I was in a pretty nasty auto accident and got T'boned. 

 

Pictures or it never happened.  :P

 

Seriously, I'm glad you are better, I hope you are completely OK.

+++

 

 

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57 minutes ago, Mr._Music_Fan said:

Dear Comrades!

 

Sorry to have been MIA for a while, I was in a pretty nasty auto accident and got T'boned.  Thus, I am finally being able to get around to resume my work on my LSi's.  I will be posting new pics after dinner.  Today was very productive, I was able to get both of the K43's installed back into the doghouse. I tested the K43 to ensure I connected the leads correctly and one of the woofers was coming in at 6ohms, and the other one is 3.8 ohms.  For clarity purposes, I am measuring the woofers directly at the connection spot in the top box, not using the crossovers. Shouldn't both be about 4 ohms? Should I be worried/concerned about the woofer measuring at 6 ohms? If so, what can I do to fix this?

 

Thanks in advance all.

 

The one measuring about 3.8 is right.  The other one may have been reconed using the wrong (8 ohm) voice coil.  That happens pretty often.

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The Re value for the K-43 should be right a 3.4 ohms. The 3.8 is probably good but the 6 ohms is a bit high. I would probably replace both, or have them both re-coned. You may have a connection issue where the leads go from the terminal on the top of the doghouse.. You didn't check them when you had them out of the cabinet?

 

A K-33 or equiv. will give you a little better bass, while the K-43 will up the mid bass a little more.

 

Bruce

edit: crossposted with Bob

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Thanks Bob and Bruce for the feedback. 

 

So here is the Twilight Zone moment, as you inquired Bruce, I did measure both K-43's and they were both about 3.6 to 3.8  That's what eerie...well kinda.  Here is some additional information that might account for the increased impedance.  On the "abby-normal" woofer I had to reglue the dustcap into the driver.  I used some epoxy mix, is there any chance this somehow accounts for the issue?  The only other possible thing that I can think of is in moving the speaker box with the affected speaker it was tipped over as  it was being re-positioned and the box (with the k43 fully attached in the doghouse) fell about 3 inches flat, could the jarring impact of the tip over account for anything?

 

 

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If you were not measuring right at the woofer, the extra resistance could have been in the little terminal strip.  Might be a bit of corrosion on the screw connections.

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I will try this Bob, but the odd thing is that when I tested it at the little terminal strip prior to opening the dog house and removing the K43 originally.  I'm just waiting for Rod Serling to chime in as well.

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Hi gang!

 

So I am happy report back that after pulling the "abby normal" K-43, I found the culprit -- a loose speaker terminal on the woofer.  I tightened that sucker up, and got my matching 3.8 ohms.  I reattached the K-43 into the doghouse attached the woofer leads to the mini-terminal in the crossover box and re-tested the K-43. Sweet 3.8 ohms, again.  I am happy as a clam. Now I am awaiting the arrival of the duratex on Wednesday.

 

One thing I have made a mental note about is that it is WELL worth the money to buy an extra long - 8inch long Phillips screwdriver to screw in the woofer terminal screws in the doghouse. I almost feel like i'm well on my way to earning a boy scout badge of "LaScala Rehab".

 

Thank you Bob and Bruce for chiming in and providing some guidance.

 

-Alex

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As promised here are the pics:

pic 1 - logos (in need of TLC)

pic 2 - touched up logos

pic 3 - foam seal for dog house

pic 4 - doghouse entrance with foam seal in place.

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Edited by Mr._Music_Fan
Updated text and removed one pic

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Alex,

 

Looks like you did a great job on these.  I look forward to talking to you more about these.

 

Thanks,

 

Patrick

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Looking good so far, I just love split LaScalas, it was the first Heritage I ever listened to at home.

Colterphoto had bought a pair a long time ago and I went and picked them up for him, it was going to be a while before he could get down here to get them so he let me listen to them until. It was a little shocking at first in a good way, I didn't want him to pick them up !

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