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Found 50 results

  1. Original Video Tour of Youthman's LaScala Trio Home Theater on Youtube UPDATED Video Tour of Youthman's LaScala Trio Home Theater Renovation on Youtube High Resolution Pics of Completed System It's finally time to begin my HT 2.0 Build so I figured I would start a dedicated Build Thread here. Wakejunkie is getting ready to begin construction of the new front cabinet wall and this evening, he sent me the final sketchup file that he designed and needless to say, I'm PUMPED!!! The screen will have two hidden latches (similar to door handles on a car) that will release the screen. Gas shocks will hold the screen open. The bottom three middle compartments will be able to slide forward via a 500lb max capacity commercial rail system. This will allow for MUCH easier access to the rear components. The RSW-15 will be moved underneath one of the main LaScalas. Here are the latest renderings from Wake but they do not show the Lighting under the curve and the rear view does not show that the top cabinets will be actual cabinets.
  2. Allhartfidelity

    Belle Klipsch front grills (and more?)

    Location 98312 Bremerton Wa. This listing if for the grills only, 125.00 plus shipping and fees. Below you will find other items as well. 1. Lascala bass bin braces from Volti Audio 2. Jbl 2426j compression drivers 3. K77 tweeters orig coils Having first upgraded (then sold) my Lascala, to move on to Belle, ive upgraded (altered) the Belle now and have for sale some items left from both projects. For sale here is a set of the top hat frames from Belle. Having gone with new ones, i simply dont need these any more. I WANT to keep them, but... anyway. They, and the grill are in orig and Ex+ condition. Felt compelled to offer them here first. Quite literally, these are in Ex cond, no snags or dingle balls, emblems are included. I also have JBL 2426j drivers (new JBL diaphrams) 16 ohm., as well as bass bin braces for the lascala (with lower grill covers to hide the braces) from Dave Harris (never installed) My ability to ship, is second to none.
  3. Hello Folks: Just Did Comparison Audio Recordings of 3 TTs and 3 Cartridges I hope this is posted to the correct part of the Forum. Today, I just wanted to make certain that the cartridge physically worked. It does. Although more break in time and tweaking are likely needed. I ran 3 tests today. Most all of my records were bought used, and most are in reasonable though not pristine shape. Each test therefore used a somewhat clean record (but with a couple big fingerprint smudges which are common in my mostly used record collection). I chose somewhat wisely as no loud pops are noted, the record was not warped and had no significant scratches. Bruce Springsteen, Born in the USA. Chosen in part because I thought others might have this for comparison purposes, no bad scratches, and no bad warps. It would be great to get test audio files from others for comparison. Testing gear: Pro-Ject - Debut Carbon Esprit SB (DC), Ortofon 2M Blue needle. The TT was bought with a damaged body (nothing that affects the sound) and I swapped out a broken red stylus for a new Blue. No mounting changes were made to the cartridge. Middle string weight position. Technics SL 1210 MK5, bought used and the mounting gimbal might not be in great shape. Stanton Groovemaster cartridge that is blue in color, used, but no idea of prior history of either the TT nor DJ cartridge. Heavy DJ use suspected. Not recently rebalanced. Technics SL 1210 M5G, bought used. New cheap head shell ($15.00 or so) and new AT 33 EV MC cartridge. I bought the 33 on a great sale. So for the price, I decided to give it a try. The screw lengths in the 33 package were a cluster – only 1 screw was of perfect length. I had to “adjust” a longer screw on the other side, so perhaps that subtle difference in weight might cause an issue, though no tilt was obvious. On my stereo, the LT channel was clearly emphasized (or RT side was too quiet). 1.8gr tacking force, the minimum for the cartridge was used. This was not tested with a gauge, only via spinning the counterweight knob. VTA was set to zero position which gave close to parallel positioning. The needle tip looked to be in good position using the SL 1200 overhang gauge. I have never had much luck with the protractors, so I only guestimated this. Phono or TT preamp: Pro Ject Tube Box DS. Bought with the P J TT. Ugly box, but preamp looked pristine. Settings: MM cartridges: pins cross at 40dB and 100pF on both LT and RT sides (as per directions for Ortofon 2M Red). AT 33 EV treated as a Low Output MC (LOMC) due to 0.3 mV output. It is listed at 100 ohms, but the Tube Box manual notes that no pins should cross per capacitance, so I pulled the pins at 40 dB, pulled out the 100pF pin, and placed the only crossing pin at F/V for LT and RT sides and dial was at 10 (as noted for the Ortofon Rondo Red). NO other settings were tested today. Receiver: Onkyo TX SR 805. From around 2007, also bought used. Great shape. My preferred all in 1 unit due to highly rated amp. Tape IN used for preamp input, not the phono input. VCR OUT (Tape out did not work) for recording to desktop computer LINE IN (blue color on the back of the desktop). Cables: nothing fancy. All electronics plugged into same surge protector 8 outlet extension device. Ground wire from TT to Preamp. Another ground wire from Preamp to Onkyo phono grounding pin. There were some audio hum issues before recordings were done, but none were noted during recordings. All TTs were pretty close to level via green level bubble. Audacity was the free software used for the W10 PC. The Groovemaster SL1210 was by far the loudest. So Audacity levels were reduced to about 33%. I thought the sound was ok / good. The Ortofon Blue Pro Ject combo was the next loudest and native Audacity recording level of about 50% was used. I thought this sounded best via Klipsch LaScalas in simple stereo mode. I have a Fender Pro 18” subwoofer too. I have a tiny studio apt where these were tested today. The AT 33 EV was tested after only 2 minutes of prior use by me. It was quiet and I set the Audacity levels to 80% or so. The only reason for the test today was to ensure that the AT 33 EV worked as this was my last day to return the cartridge if it was a dud. So I accept that break in time is needed and likely some more “fiddling” as well. I was not impressed at 2 minutes of use….LOL. On my stereo, I had to readjust the volume for each TT to get a similar loudness. Please bear in mind I have never done this before so I do not know how to edit the sound files at all. There is about 10-20 seconds of dead time from when I start the recording on the computer until I run to the TT and do the needle drop. Only recorded about 60-90 seconds of the Born in the USA tract. Should be enough for listening and comparison purposes. I also do not know how to equalize the recording volumes. They all sounded crappy via my tiny computer monitor speakers. Please let me know your thoughts or how to edit. Seems like the max size for attachments here is 2MB and my recordings are 15-17 MB each. If appropriate, where else to post the comparison that allows uploads of the audio recordings? From NOLA with love
  4. SonicSeeker

    LaScala's and Tubes.

    What tube amps are in use here with LaScala's and what has been tried. I would just like to know what has been tried and why it works for you. Comments from owners of other Heritage speakers using tube equipment are welcome also. I recently sold my tube equipment and am deciding what direction to go next. Tubes only please.
  5. Hello all... haven't been on in a long while. Hate to do it but I need to sell my LaScalas. Medical/living expenses and not having any health insurance have forced my hand. I've got 2 pair available. Here is the link to: My other pair... 2002 Birch Lacquered This pair are 1999 Birch Raw with the AL-3 crossover and brown grilles. All original drivers and no changes to the crossovers. No boxes. Serial Numbers: LSBR18 - 99440001 & 0002 According to the previous owner (I'm the 3rd owner), the mid-horn's had some type of silver foil backed damping applied to them (visible in the photos). And they may have had a very light coat of clear lacquer applied to them (they don't feel raw, but they're not as silky smooth as my other factory lacquered pair). Whether they were lacquered or not, they have a nice reddish/blond patina. But they have not gotten any darker since I bought them. General condition I'd say is an 8/8.5 with good corners. But there are a few nicks/scratches here and there. The grilles are in excellent condition and the Klipsch badges are flat and intact. I've had them quite awhile and they were bought here in the DFW area. This pair was in my 5 channel, all LaScala system, that I had in my home. They were rotated in/out of the center channel position every year or so. But they've been sitting in the back of my apartment for the last year collecting "LaScala dust". I'm asking $1100, but if someone was interested in buying both pair, I'd be willing to knock 8-10% or so off the price. Cash is king, but I do have a PayPal account (plus fees) if that would be better for you. These are local pickup only. And I'm in a 2nd story apartment right now, so you'd need a two wheeler and some help to get them down the stairs. Though with notice I can probably get my brother over here to help move them. I'm located in Mansfield, Texas... zip 76063. If you have any questions, please let me know... Thanks, Tony
  6. Hello all... haven't been on in a long while. Hate to do it but I need to sell my LaScalas. Medical/living expenses and not having any health insurance have forced my hand. I've got 2 pair available. Here is the link to: My other pair... 1999 Birch Raw This pair are 2002 Birch Lacquered with the AL-4 crossover and black grilles. This version is also Bi-amp/Bi-wire capable and has a separate input panel on the back that can accept banana plugs. There is also a factory pair of cane grilles that were purchased by the original owner. All original drivers and no changes to the crossovers. I do have the original boxes for this pair. Serial Numbers: LSBL3 - 02510001 & 0002 I purchased these from the original owner here in the DFW area and have had them about 10 years. This is a VERY nice pair in close to, if not mint condtion. I'd say they are easily 9/9.5 with sharp corners. The top, sides and all external surfaces are silky smooth and have no nicks or visible scratches. They are a very nice blond color and have always been kept out of the sun. The installed black grilles are in excellent condition and the Klipsch badges are flat and intact. The other pair of factory cane grilles are still brand new and have never been installed. These were in my 5 channel, all LaScala system, that I had in my home. And they were used as the front left/right channels in that system. Unfortunately they've been sitting in the back of my apartment for the last year collecting "LaScala dust". I'm asking $1600, but if someone was interested in buying both pair, I'd be willing to knock 8-10% or so off the price. Cash is king, but I do have a PayPal account (plus fees) if that would be better for you. These are local pickup only. And I'm in a 2nd story apartment right now, so you'd need a two wheeler and some help to get them down the stairs. Though with notice I can probably get my brother over here to help move them. I'm located in Mansfield, Texas... zip 76063. If you have any questions, please let me know... Thanks, Tony
  7. Up for sale is a matching pair of Klipsch Lascala’s. They are black with AL-3 networks. They perform as they should. They do have a few bumps and bruises......I’d rate them about 7/10 in appearance. With a little work, they could be in pristine condition. $900. Pick up only in Little Rock, AR. Go Hogs! Hogfan
  8. Last month my hanger flooded, and with it I lost my K-horns. The insurance company (travelers) is giving me $400 for the K-horns. Yep, that's it. The cabinets are JUNK, but the components are good. In fact, last year Bob Crites redid the crossovers and I replaced the K-77 with his horns. Anyway, I have some great components now that need a new cabinet. Sad thing is Hope is 60 miles to my north. Anyway, I am wondering if anyone has ever done a K-horn to LaScala conversion? If I am going to have to build new cabinets, the LaScala or Belle cabinets would fit my lifestyle better. What are the differences in the components? I know the crossovers are different, but how much different? Am I crazy for thinking this? I don't have room for the K-horns in my current house, which is why they were in the hanger. Heck what about going to a Cornwall cabinet????
  9. Mr._Music_Fan

    La Scala Industrial

    For Sale: A pair of awesome upgraded Black La Scala Industrial speakers for $1200 These speakers were built in 1996. I also have the aluminum badges if you want them. Location: DFW (in Texas). Tweeter: Elliptrac HF ($215 for this upgrade) Midrange: K-55M Woofer: K-43-K Link to the upgraded tweeters: click HERE I have resealed the woofers within the last year and should be good for another 20 years. I am selling these speakers as I recently moved into a smaller house and they are too powerful for me and my smaller living room. They are currently in my garage and ready to go to a good home.
  10. efzauner

    laScala CDN$800 Montreal!

    https://www.kijiji.ca/v-speakers/ville-de-montreal/klipsch-lascala-speakers/1326599931?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true Sadly I sold my LaScalas 5 years ago without ever really using them... purchased from Dodger for US$600 back in 2002 ish (that was CDN$900 at the time) and sold for CDN$600 Just dont have the room in my 16 x 18 HT room. too narrow . All has to fit agains a 12 foot wall. damn damn damn.. so tempting to get these again... marriage..LaScalas... marriage.. LaScalas.. such a difficult choice...
  11. Late updating this, but items have been sold This post hurts the soul a bit. The time has come with me to part with my current system and rebuild. I will add pics tomorrow (ironically my personal computer is at the office). While the prospect of building a new system excites me, parting with some of these is gonna hurt. I put this system together in 2012 while living the single life. Last year, I went and did the unthinkable. I got married! While the wife has been accommodating for awhile, our recent move has soured her forgiving mood on the big toys. I need to downsize (but not too much ). Selling: 2012 Jubilees (Cherry finish) w/ K402 horns: $6500. These come with the original K-69 drivers. Still have original boxes and shipping materials. I purchased these in 2012 from the factory (original owner). The boxes have some wear from 2 moves but the speakers are perfect. TAD TD-4002 drivers: $1500. These REALLY make the 402 horns sing! If purchased together, will part with the Jubs/TAD combo for $7500. The Jubs come in the cherry wood finish and have no blemishes. Also for sale: 2011 LaScala II (Single): $2500. Also in cherry, used as part of JubScala center in my setup. No scratches anywhere. MINT condition. Also ordered from factory. Again box is a little beat up but the unit itself is perfect. K402 Horn w/ K-69 Driver: $500. Used in JubScala center DX38 (qty 2): Each with Roy's recommended settings. One has the jubilee setting for the TADs already programmed, and the other the JubScala setting. ($300 ea) Danley DTS-10 (qty 2): $1000 for the pair. They perform flawlessly, but the cabinets are not pristine. They have been through 2 moves and did not receive the love that the Jubs/LaScala did. Thankfully they're built like tanks. Never dropped. KPT-200 pair: $200 for the pair. Used as surrounds in my system. Located in Seattle. Can deliver a considerable distance (I like road trips and the holidays are coming up), or can arrange shipping with prospective buyers. Pics coming your way tomorrow! Only have a few pics for now. I'll have to go through some older photos.
  12. First post New guy from the DiyAudio forums. I find myself with a full set of drivers (K-77, k-55M, and K-33-e) and crossovers out of a pair of Belles and am looking for enclosure advice. I asked this question on DIYAudio and they suggested I try here. So I've spent the last several day searching and reading older posts about the K-33E and what enclosures it's best suited for. I'm leaning toward University Dean, but in reading those threads, reviews seem mixed. There's a lot to say for the original Belle enclosure from a WAF standpoint with the exception of the height of the top-hats... But I grew up with Belles and the sound never really impressed me. I have a nice JBL studio sub I can throw into the system now though. I'm not as Bass needy as I used to be either. I listen at low volumes most of the time anyway. As a reference, my dad built some simple open back cabs for the drivers and I spent a day listening to them in those cabs and ended up removing the sub because I didn't feel I needed it. So I apologize in advance if this is has been done before, but I wasn't sure how the site felt about bumping old threads and I was getting a little lost with all the information in the various threads. So what would you build if you found yourself with Belle drivers and no Belle Cabs? Thanks, Phil
  13. I have LaScala Ind separates with Crites crossovers and bass drivers. I love them but a set of Chorus came up local to me and I was wondering if they would be worth buying. Seller is asking $850 and they look to be in good shape. I believe they are Chorus 1 as he does not mention any series numbers. Any opinions and experience how these two compare? I am driving them with MC30s. Primarily, I listen at moderate levels (yelling to be heard sitting next to each other) to old rock, jazz and blues. I am not into thumping bass but like a good sound stage and realistic sound reproduction. Thanks,
  14. Optimal Cartridge for a Technics SL 1210: 2M Blue or Bronze, Super OM 30, Denon DL-110, AT 150 series (AT 150MLX or 150Sa), or AT 440 MLa, MlLb or new VM 540? Hi Folks: Not sure where to post this. Let me know if it belongs elsewhere. Most of the info below is tell you folks about me and my gear. You can skip it if you like, as it is a bit detailed. My Technics SL1200 ?M3D is no more. Also gone is the Nigthclub S Cartridge and extra stylus. I still have the Music MMF-5 with a Goldring cartridge (?1024?), from about 10 years ago. It is my bedroom rig in New Orleans, I was never very happy with this, but completely different set up from what is noted below, except for the Onkyo. I work up in the DC area now and I have Klipsch LaScalas for my front speakers, Heresy Is for center and rear and a Fender 18” pro audio ported subwoofer (for which there is virtually no info on the web, nor from Fender). The LaScalas are “bright”, even for LaScalas. Therefore, I really do not need an over “bright” TT cartridge. I have a Pro-Ject - Debut Carbon Esprit SB (DC), 2M Red. It was bought knowing it had some damage and I got a 2M Blue stylus to put on the straight TT arm to replace the mangled Red stylus. It sounds very nice, but I have never had another needle on it. I do not intend to replace it. Also have a Pro-Ject Audio - Tube Box DS – Black phono pre amp. I have never compared this to anything else either. Seems to work fine. I only have a small studio apt now so I use the Tube Box for any / all TTs. Thank goodness for thick walls in an older building !! I use an Onkyo TX SR 805. Also about 10 years old. It is an all in one receiver, but with a very good amp for such a unit. I have acquired 3 additional TTs: Technics SL-1800 (repaired), 1210 MK5 and 1210 M5G (one of the 1210s also got minor repairs locally, the other has a gimpy ?gimble point on the tone arm, but it works fine – for now). (Long story on getting them.) Not sure I want to do the KAB fluid dampers on these now, nor any other modding now. Might consider mods after I get a good needle. They came with various used cartridges including an AT 92E, Stanton Groovemasters, etc. I have no way to know how “used” any of the cartridges and styli are. That said, none sound bad. I would like to have 1 good needle that I can easily interchange between these 3 TTs. Therefore, some sort of plug and play set up would be ideal, whether via a compatible cartridge mounted onto a head shell or a DJ needle, Best reccs for a DJ needle seem to be for the Ortofon Arkiv, but I doubt that it would be as good as any in the post title for regular hifi listening. I mostly listen to Jazz, Blues, 60s/70s rock, Disco, etc. I should also state that many of the dozen or so records I have up in DC now have seen better days and all were bought used. I have cleaned some of them, and yes there was gunk on them. The gunk and scratches were one reason to leave out the Super OM-40, as some web postings said that all the scratches etc are easily noted with the 40. Combined with the horn loaded speakers, I think the sound of nice new vinyl might be great, but most all of my 150+ records in NOLA are from the cheap used bin. I have listened to most of them before buying to make sure that that the records were at least in ok shape. 2M Blue- sounds fine on the Pro Ject and some say it is ok with the SL1200s. $210/165 (cartr/stylus, LP Gear or TTNeedles). It is mounted onto the Pro Ject arm and I am not going to mess with it. However, I would consider a second Blue on a headshell for the Technics TTs. Some really like the Bronze, but I do not know if either Blue or Bronze is a good match for my 3 Technics TTs when compared to the OM 30 or others listed here. $370/290. Super OM 30 gets good comments on the web. However, more postings seem to favor the ATs or Denon. $290/220, so more than Blue, but less expensive than a Bronze. TTN Jico Shibata stylus for OM 10, 20, 30, 40: $160 Super OM 40 might be better for those with high quality records, as I guess you hear every pop and such in the vinyl. Some folks on the web preferred the 30. $385/300. Denon DL-110 is said to be well mated to the 1200 series. However, there is no separate stylus for this cartridge, and setting the mount properly might be difficult. It might also be too bright for my LaScalas and Heresy’s. $200-300 AT 150 series (AT 150MLX or 150Sa) is said to be a real step up from the 440s – but so is the price. I am not really sure how much difference there is from the Sa to the MLX. $270-450/335. Perhaps the bargain, if I could score a Sa for $270 and if the Sa is similar to the MLX. AT has just released the VM740ML, VM750SH and VM760SLC to replace the 150s, but I know very little about them. AT 440 MLa, MlLb or new VM 540 get good reviews. MLb is $199/179 I have a few Mono records, not sure the $90.00 OM D25M is worth it for me. One potential advantage to the OM 30 is if I could get a stylus for the D25M that would work mounted onto the OM30 cartridge. Also note that some plug and play or otherwise premounted to headshell sets are available from some of the web retailers. There were also some comments about how difficult some of these are to set up. Any advice appreciated. From NOLA with love.
  15. Newbie Type Qs RE Cornscalas and LaScalas This was prompted by a PM from another forum member, regarding SEOS CSs. In brief, if you already have a LS or CS (or other similar Altec, etc) why bother to change anything (besides horns, drivers, etc, like many of us do) if you have a sub? I am excluding the desire to tinker, which you have by definition if you are on the Forums - and that is likely why most of you are reading this post. If you are getting your first larger speakers, that is a different issue. Best to audition some first, realizing that most folks out there likely have no means to do this in the real world, especially in an A-B fashion. I have LaScalas and Heresys in a 550 sq ft place in the DC area, the rest of my stuff is still in NOLA. My single Fender 18” driver ported pro sub is roughly the size of a LaScala. Nice thick walls up North...LOL. I took a look at some SEOS CS webpages including diysoundgroup dot com where the SEOS waveguides or horns are listed and also looked at their LS or CS equiv, the Titan 615/615LX - under $600 each shipped !! Incredibly flat response from 100->15000 Hz; too good to be true? Several different curves below 100 Hz found in diff places. Let’s assume they roll off at 60 Hz. I assume bass bin size relates, perhaps not directly, to low end extension, eg 18” cubed maybe to 100 Hz, 25 x 25 x 12 (Titan) to around 60 Hz, 25” cubed (LS or CS) to around a 35-50 Hz roll off). The Titan bass bin size is maybe 40% of a LS bass bin size. So maybe if they had used a bigger (ported) bass bin maybe they could have gotten lower bass extension like the CS or LS. Perhaps that would also have required a different bass driver, xover, etc. But as stated below, add a sub, and you are done. And yes, I realize that this does not take into consideration tonality of the speakers, their “size” presence either in the room (almost “triangle” yard for K-horn) or whether you seem to be listening to a 10 piece band (K-horn) vs 2 high school kids (bad tower speakers), etc. One major Q: If you have sub that matches your speakers, whatever that means, what difference does it make to have lower bass extension from the mains? (No flame wars please, just looking for information.) Mind you I have big speakers per the above comment, but not directly for the bass extension. I resisted the “dark side” for decades as I thought the bass from the LSs and K horns was enough. I was very wrong. I am a bass a holic with many 15 and 18” subs, but no furnature/couch bass shakers (LOL). The CS adds about 10 HZ lower extension from the lower limit of the LS at the price of going from about 104 to 100 db/watt according to Crites' CS a-d webpage. Likely not a big deal to most of us with at least ?20+ watt tube amps. No doubt that is of some importance to some folks. However, if you have sub(s), does it really matter as you can program a receiver to output anything, say below 60 HZ to the sub(s)? If your audio receiver cannot do that, a dedicated sub amp can do that in almost all cases. (Though mains will run full spectrum, see below) Exception: I have thought of directly coupling the output of a turntable preamp to a stereo only amp and then directly into R and L speakers. But even here you could Y split the TT preamp output to add the sub amp as well. All you would lose is the ability to filter out the lower bass extension for the mains. It is only a guess, but I don't think the overlap, say below 40-80 HZ would be too noticeable to most of us (based upon whatever you use as the sub amp bass cutoff point). Outside of using maybe a Radio Shack Potentiometer, no idea how to control the volume inexpensively and ?cleanly. It makes the signal path as clean as possible (I think) - assuming that makes much of an audible difference to anyone. No remotes, so no couch potatoes. Just my 2 cents. Comments welcome. NOLA
  16. Jodieodio

    1988 LaScala Birch Veneer Pair

    May be selling this original pair. I am the owner since day one. Great condition. Gauging interest. Thanks!
  17. Shipping Moving LaScalas SUV Truck Vehicle How To Guide Sorry for the goofy title, just wanted to make this easy to search and find for the next poor person doing this. I drove my Klipsch LaScala Is up north this past Saturday. I had some nice chats with folks here and a few ok emails via CL (but lots of scammers and strange folks on CL too). But there was to be no sale in FL. When I looked at the speakers they had many minor water marks, scuffs, scratches, a few small plywood chips, etc. The pics overstate the watermarks and far under represent all other issues. Not pretty; but they sound great. The cost to ship both on a pallet, shrink wrapped, would be around $500 for a 1000 mile trip. Too much for these. So I made some car rental reservations. Please be aware that most agencies will let you drive a vehicle out of FL super cheap during much or April well into May. Beginning after Spring Break, they need to get the cars out of FL as they are more needed elsewhere by now. Other 1 way specials could be available, so check as needed. As the LS 1s are 2 x 2 x 3 ft each, approx, that is the absolute minimum space needed. About 105 lbs each. I think the LS II s are a bit larger and much heavier. I think the 2 s would be very difficult to move due to the weight. Most any pickup truck will work as will most any commercial van, like a UHaul. Just remember you need a totally secure way to hold them in place somehow and pad them. Also, put some cardboard boxes below the LS’s and carefully pad the edges and the spaces between speakers. THEY WILL MOVE !!!! Minivans that I saw at the airport rental area had some major issues. It is a big lift to get a LS into a 2nd or 3rd row seat. It would not be easy to properly secure them, especially from a sudden stop. If you can remove the seats, which could be difficult, the floor surface could be very uneven and require many boxes or towels for padding to protect the speakers. Might even need wooden boards for the purpose. Possibly a real pain. And remember, at a rental agency, you have no control over what is available to rent when you show up in most cases. Someone mentioned a Prius. I did not see one to measure, but I suspect it would be a tight fit. I rented a 2017 Nissan Rogue, ?SV. Sort of a base model I think. Only a 4 cylinder which was great – got 30+ MPG over about 1100 miles. Several other SUVs had far lower est MPGs, this saved me a lot of money on gas. Often going 80 MPH on the Interstate. Sometimes much slower, given congestion, etc. It was comfy too. I did the trip in 16 ½ hours in 1 day. Ate power bars and such for lunch and dinner. $30-/day for the rental !! The key measurement is not the rear door hatch size !!!! It is the space between the inside rear wheel well covers !!!! On all of the non tiny SUVs I went into with a tape measure, there was at least a 24 x 36 inch entry at the rear hatch. Wheel well opening: Could not find a smaller car hatchback version like a Ford ?Fiesta, etc to measure. Maybe someone can chime in here. Ford Cmax, SEL Hybrid: tight at 37” Kia Soul: 40”. But had other major issues: the rear deck is about 1 ½ inches below the entry – so getting the LS s out will be a major problem. But the bigger issue is how the hatch lock bar is positioned and will likely ding the speakers without a lot of padding. Some other SUVs were clearly larger in the Standard SUV class: Hyundai Santa Fe, etc. I did not see a Rav4 to measure. I measured so many vehicles that 2 of the RAC folks thought I was being a nut and told me to stop, as I had already found a few vehicles that would work. How to pack your LS’s. I got 6 book boxes at Home Deport plus about another 6 boxes from WM about to be dumped. I used all of them. I padded the low central hatch lock area with 2 pieces of detachable long narrow carpeting that the Rogue had over the spare tire. I placed boxes over the cargo carpet and used 1-2 layers of boxes to help move the speakers in place. A neighbor’s scrawny 16 yo kid was able to lift the LS s all over the place, but we both moved these into the Rogue. Did not even need the moving dolly !! The kid was great but had no idea what these were. It took 2 people to get these out upon arrival up north. But I think a strong guy could get them out on his own. Despite padding the pavement below the rear hatch to stop from scratching the LS s upon removing them when I arrived, my helper almost missed the boxes and towels on the ground !! If the finish on your LS s is nice, add some sheets under them to protect the finish when loading them up !! The LS behind the driver did not need extra padding here. I let a box jut out about 6 inches to the front. I did pad the roof corners so as not to damage the speaker corners nor tear a hole in the roof padding. Pieces of boxes and bath towels worked fine. There was some shifting of this speaker during the drive so I had to redo this edge corner protection every few hours. I had a few small boxes and car carpet mats between the 2 speakers. About 4-6” thick The rear speaker by the hatch had edge corner bath towel padding. I used bent up boxes to pad the wheel well areas, where there was about 1” of padding needed on each side. Again, use sheets next to your speakers here too if the finish is nice. To stop the rear speaker from sliding, some couch type firm pillows were used between the rear speaker at the door / glass for the rear hatch. These were a lifesaver. Otherwise that speaker would likely have moved too. I needed about 3 cushion pillows for the Rogue. My carry on bag fit to the base of the front speaker. My backpack fit in front of the passenger seat. My receiver fit on top of a folded up cardboard box on the passenger seat itself. There was no extra space !! Also please note that the rear seats for Rogue go flat – but at about a 10 to 15 degree angle. With the weight of the LS it did flatten out even more. However, this could be a major issue on some SUV models. That is also why you need good padding between the 2 speakers: boxes, pillows, etc. Don’t use sleeping pillows – they are too soft. Use firmer couch pillows. In brief, be sure to get a somewhat bigger vehicle for a long trip. I did not need to catnap in the SUV, and would not have been able to recline the front seat down either. Also, you need to accelerate and stop slowly with the LS s on board. This is not easy on a congested highway nor poorly laid out exit ramp. Hope this helps the next person. From NOLA with love
  18. Just bought a pair of LSi which have AL X-O. Just got my MC30s today and am loving the sound but based on the age of the speakers, I was thinking of rebuilding the X-O with new caps. I read the AL is not the best and people prefer the AA or AL-3. I read it isn't cost effective to convert an AL to an AA. Is it possible (cost effective) to update the AL to AL-3 during the rebuild or do I need to buy a new AL-3 X-O? Carmen
  19. I have a pair of LaScalas IIs at my parents house in South Florida (please see separate post regarding sale of 1994 LaScala's). If I do not sell them, it would mean driving them out of FL in a rented SUV, van, or pick up truck vs shipping them. I assume various folks here have shipped large speakers like these via one of the freight companies before. Old Dominion, Con Way, are some companies that I have heard of. Likely for palletized freight. Any suggestions regarding shipping / freighting La Scalas? Also, any potential discounts to use. Thx in advance From Nola with love
  20. This is my surround pair of LaScalas... 1988 Birch Raw (Serial # 8813949 & 950) with glass tops. They are completely original (AL crossovers) and have been used exclusively for surround duty since I purchased them several years ago. They are in very good condition (7.5-8.0 out of 10) with sharp corners and edges and have a nice color to them. The Klipsch badge for one has fallen off, but I have it and it's straight. Early on they were connected to my 5 channel Parasound amp. But for most of the time I've had them they were driven by a Pioneer Elite VSX-33 AVR. Due to ongoing health issues (recent back surgery) I'm in the process of moving from a house to an apartment. Space is at a premium and since I have 2 other pair of LaScalas, these need to be sold if possible. I believe I've priced these quite fairly ($950 cash, $980 PayPal) based on age, condition and the inclusion of the glass tops (see attached photos). Due to my recent back surgery these would be for local pickup only in the Dallas-Fort Worth metroplex (Grand Prairie, South of I20 near Carrier Pkwy). There is no way I can arrange delivery to a packer/shipper, so please don't ask. Preference will be given to the first person who can show up, pick them up and pay me. I also have a pair of DBB cabinets (built by Rudy81 - see link) that are available. I will provide a separate link to the listing for those, so check back here or in the Garage Sale forum. Please PM or reply here on the forum and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Thanks, Tony
  21. MagicMtnDan

    Vintage LaScala Speakers for Sale

    I have a pair of vintage LaScala speakers for sale in the Los Angeles area. I am the original owner of these Birch veneer covered speakers purchased in the 80's. $1,399.00 for the pair OBO
  22. Hello Everyone: Just joined today because of a problem that i hope someone can help me with.1 Tweeter in my Klipsch LaScala is not working,i am the 2nd owner and i have have them about 10 years no problems until now.Is there any repair places to send it to to make sure it is the speaker itself,solder problems? Could it be the crossover? Need some help please.Not really an electrician,just love the sound when all is well..Thanks Mark
  23. Hey gang, I wanted to solicit feedback/advice/wisdom/opinions regarding a crossroads I am at regarding speakers. Current situation: Forte II with new titanium tweeter diaphragms, new Crites crossovers, new passive radiators. Opportunity: 88 LaScalas with AL crossovers, 401 composite horn, beautiful polyurethane/clear coat over the birch, minor nicks. Price 950. Question: Should I keep my Forte II since they are in excellent shape? Should I sell them to help fund the LaScalas? If I get the LaScalas, what should I do with the AL crossovers? Are the AL crossovers worth anything? Thank you all in advance. -Alex
  24. Fellow Klipsch comrades, I am happy to share that I got a pair of LaScala Industrial this weekend. These are my first and while I love my current set up of Forte II's, in the limited garage listening time, the LSi's (in my opinion) definitely have better detail to the sound and the dynamics are quite impressive. They are the single piece and in pretty good shape -- no damage to the doghouse and the drivers are all within specs. I will be entering them in to a rehab program and once completed they will be placed in the living room to displace my Forte II. I want to share and give special recognition to Matthews and JimJimbo, both of these guys are BEYOND awesome. Both of these guys provided some great advice and I wouldn't have felt the same level of confidence in getting the LSi's if it hadn't been for these guys. Thanks a million!!! So the plan for rehab is as follows: Paint a fresh couple of coats of duratex Buy some Crites tweeters Buy new caps to refresh the AL-3's. Buy some aluminum trim All told, i think I anticipate spending about $275 to get where I want to be. Any additional thoughts or suggestions are welcomed. And yes, I'll be documenting the rehab process... -Alex
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