jimjimbo Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 12 minutes ago, ZEUS121996 said: It is unbelievably inexpensive. OK, sign me up, twice..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 39 minutes ago, BEC said: Let us know if that meter is any good. I might even buy one. Those meters are on the Bay for as little as $99 bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS121996 Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 We have to go to Hope for rehab? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS121996 Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 2 minutes ago, minermark said: Those meters are on the Bay for as little as $99 bucks. @minermark Mark You would be a perfect candidate for a Mexican excursion. My buddy that owns the boat is from Tahoe Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 4 minutes ago, ZEUS121996 said: @minermark Mark You would be a perfect candidate for a Mexican excursion. My buddy that owns the boat is from Tahoe Mark Thanks, sounds exciting. But my "Boating Days" have passed. Wait a Min, am i thread crapping here? i don t even know what thread im on! im outta here..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 31, 2016 Author Share Posted December 31, 2016 This is the thread capping area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 31, 2016 Author Share Posted December 31, 2016 37 minutes ago, ZEUS121996 said: How much trouble can you get in when my friend is called Don Wilo? You can look it up in Huatulco, it's one of the establishments he owns. He makes sure everything is SMOOTH BABY LOL Mark I'd certainly make you a tequila martini I'd make myself something else however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 Those meters are on the Bay for as little as $99 bucks.Good for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS121996 Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 Holy shit! This is f*cking crazy Are you still awake Jimbo?LOL Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 No I was shoveling the driveway...what happened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS121996 Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 Bullshit non call for offsides on Fla ST.Kid had to throw it early and it got picked. Course Michigan handed it to them with about a minute left Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 31, 2016 Author Share Posted December 31, 2016 I can't believe you guys get so excited over pee wee football. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Ok back to the ALs. I've labeled the parts in the woofer and squawker circuits as to what stays and what goes. Can someone look this over and see if it's correct before I start cutting things loose? Thanks. In the tweeter circuit, there are only 2 components to remove? The 2uf and .5 mH? They're really not the last items before the driver. The zener diodes, air core inductor and 2uf cap stay? @Deang or @wdecho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 I can't work under these conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 1 hour ago, wdecho said: From the input going to the tweeter the first component is going to be a 2 uf and then another 2uf tied together with it. In between them you should find the .125 uh inductor. Both 2uf caps should be coming from the positive side of the input in series. The .125 uh inductor in between the two 2 uf caps going to the negative input stays. Remove the .5 uh inductor and 2 uf cap tied together with the .5uh going to positive then the 2 uf cap going to ground. I will help to have a meter to check values of caps and inductors but it can be done without meter. Without having the Xover in front of me it is hard to follow the hookups of components from picture. So basically 4 components removed from the tweeter circuit? Two .5 uh and two 2 uf caps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 How I would do it: 1) You only need the autoformers and a pair of 2.5mH inductors off of those networks - which are easily found in the woofer circuit. However, there are four total in a those networks, and I would pick the best looking two of the four. 2) Remove ALL of the screws from the barrier strip. Gently remove the tinned buss wire from the strip. Wire for the tweeter is also soldered to the autoformer. Clip those off as close to the original cap as possible. Remove the screws from the autoformer, and set the autoformer, along with the attached tinned buss wire (and squawker and tweeter wires) off to the side. 2) Again, for emphasis - the autoformers and 2.5mH coils are the only large parts you will be reusing. 3) Remove the zener bracket along with the zeners. You will be reusing these. 4) Everything else comes off of the board - you won't be using any of them except the terminal strip. Shove the parts into a box so you don't confuse yourself. 5) To make an AA tweeter circuit, you will need a pair of 245uH inductors - call Bob. 6) Clean the terminal strips. Use a small brash brush, and hot soapy water. Dry, and set off to the side. 7) The board should be bare. Lightly sand and repaint. Or, just wipe down with a sponge to get the grime off. 8) At this point you should have: (2) Boards (2)) Terminal Strips (2) Autoformers (2) 2.5mH coils for the woofer circuit (2) .245mH coils I asked you to order from Bob (4) 2uF Dayton capacitors (2) 8.2uF Dayton capacitors 9) Start by reinstalling the terminal strips 10) Gently wipe down the buss wire with denatured alcohol. 11) Reinstall the autoformers and terminal strips. Lay the preformed busswire back into the terminal strips. Make sure the busswire is on the negative connection points. 12) Connect 8.2uF Dayton between input positive on the barrier strip and the input tap of the autoformer (usually top right hand tap). 13) Rebuild the tweeter circuit - follow AA schematic. Clean all spades with steel wool and alcohol (no, you cannot use Vodka). 14). Reconnect the single wire for the midrange from the autoformer back to positive for the squawker. If I remember anything, I'll add it later! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Thanks Dean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 I'm labeling all my parts before I strip the board and can't read one of the values on the schematic. Are both the air coils in the tweeter circuit 125uH? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 No, the other is 500uH (.50mH). Look at them carefully from the top - one has considerably more wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 So the larger one on the left is the 500? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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