Lbk Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 38 minutes ago, DizRotus said: I can’t speak for Mike, but I spread a thin layer of Loctite on the underside of the remaining side (top) panel around the perimeter and where it meets the inner baffle panels. Then I put a thick bead of Loctite in the corresponding locations of the assembled box. Carefully lowering it straight down into place forced the viscous Loctite to squeeze out, sealing the joints. The pre-drilled screw holes assured the alignment of the panel and the tight seal against the inner panels. The dado cuts of the four flat packs were easier and more reassuring, but the Loctite and patience resulted in a strong and leak-free scratch-built unit number five. If were using veneered panels, or if for any other reason using screws through the side panels were to be avoided, I would install at least two guide pins diagonally in two corners of the box to assure alignment. To accomplish that without piercing the veneer, I would insert wood screws into the corners of the box down the point where the threads are fully into the wood. I would then cut the heads off the screws and grind the stumps to a point. With assistance, I would place the side panel on the pointed pegs to mark the location for holes in the panel to receive the pegs. Again with assistance, I would use a drill press to drill holes to a depth of one half the thickness of the panel. The points would be ground off the pegs leaving a smooth peg slightly shorter than the depth of the corresponding hole in the panel. That’s a lot of work to avoid piercing veneer, but I would want the assurance of alignment provided by the guide pins. The glued panel would still need to be held in place by weights and/or clamps until the Loctite cured. If I wanted veneer, I would apply veneer AFTER assembling the boxes and hiding imperfections, screws, etc with Bondo. Fortunately, in my basement man-cave veneer was unnecessary. I prefer the rounded corner look using a router and the “hides a multitude of sins” coverage of textured Duratex. That said, I greatly admire the skill and persistence required to cover large boxes with beautiful hardwood veneers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MookieStl Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 2 hours ago, CECAA850 said: Ok, how did you do that on the top side? I pretty much did what Neil said above. The outside edge of my top plate was dadoed so I knew it was squared up. The internal "labyrinth" panels were slightly recessed from the outside panels so when the top was laid on, they were all flush. I used dead weight to apply down pressure knowing it could not slide around with the perimeter secured in the dados. For good measure, I counter sunk a couple screws in the middle. Doubt I needed them but did anyway. I was doing duratex, so did not see it as an issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 9 hours ago, MookieStl said: I pretty much did what Neil said above. The outside edge of my top plate was dadoed so I knew it was squared up. The internal "labyrinth" panels were slightly recessed from the outside panels so when the top was laid on, they were all flush. I used dead weight to apply down pressure knowing it could not slide around with the perimeter secured in the dados. For good measure, I counter sunk a couple screws in the middle. Doubt I needed them but did anyway. I was doing duratex, so did not see it as an issue. I know how to install the last panel. I was asking how you caulked the top like you did the bottom. Unless you have arms like elastic man it would be impossible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbk Posted January 31, 2021 Author Share Posted January 31, 2021 11 hours ago, DizRotus said: I can’t speak for Mike, but I spread a thin layer of Loctite on the underside of the remaining side (top) panel around the perimeter and where it meets the inner baffle panels. Then I put a thick bead of Loctite in the corresponding locations of the assembled box. Carefully lowering it straight down into place forced the viscous Loctite to squeeze out, sealing the joints. The pre-drilled screw holes assured the alignment of the panel and the tight seal against the inner panels. The dado cuts of the four flat packs were easier and more reassuring, but the Loctite and patience resulted in a strong and leak-free scratch-built unit number five. If were using veneered panels, or if for any other reason using screws through the side panels were to be avoided, I would install at least two guide pins diagonally in two corners of the box to assure alignment. To accomplish that without piercing the veneer, I would insert wood screws into the corners of the box down the point where the threads are fully into the wood. I would then cut the heads off the screws and grind the stumps to a point. With assistance, I would place the side panel on the pointed pegs to mark the location for holes in the panel to receive the pegs. Again with assistance, I would use a drill press to drill holes to a depth of one half the thickness of the panel. The points would be ground off the pegs leaving a smooth peg slightly shorter than the depth of the corresponding hole in the panel. That’s a lot of work to avoid piercing veneer, but I would want the assurance of alignment provided by the guide pins. The glued panel would still need to be held in place by weights and/or clamps until the Loctite cured. If I wanted veneer, I would apply veneer AFTER assembling the boxes and hiding imperfections, screws, etc with Bondo. Fortunately, in my basement man-cave veneer was unnecessary. I prefer the rounded corner look using a router and the “hides a multitude of sins” coverage of textured Duratex. That said, I greatly admire the skill and persistence required to cover large boxes with beautiful hardwood veneers. Never done any veneer work except for edge work and yes it is beautiful when done correctly. Maybe this year I will give it a try. I build one box ( 4 sides and a bottom panel) and hope to get the baffle panels in tomorrow. I bought 2 cheap corner clamps from harbor freight (3.99 each) to hold a corner of the box and used a spade bit to drill pocket joints. (No jig) Worked ok but I bought a single hole pocket jig today to put together the other box. I plan on using a couple of pocket joints on each baffel panel. One on bottom front and one on top back of each panel. This should hold panels in straight I hope. For the last 20 1/8 by 30 inch panel I am going to really on pl premium to hold it in place. Only place I can put in screws without them being scene would be the on bottom of the box. Not sure how much that will help but might do it anyway. Think the pl premium will hold, is that what you did? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MookieStl Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 32 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: I know how to install the last panel. I was asking how you caulked the top like you did the bottom. Unless you have arms like elastic man it would be impossible. oh, you were trying to be funny!?!?!? don't Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Trying to ask "why do something on one side you can't do on the other " in a round about way. Drove 700+ miles today. My humor machine isn't working all that well right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richieb Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 26 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: Trying to ask "why do something on one side you can't do on the other " in a round about way. Drove 700+ miles today. My humor machine isn't working all that well right now. Poor baby. Have a drink - oh sorry. Forgot it’s still January. Double poor baby — 🥃 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richieb Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 1 hour ago, CECAA850 said: I know how to install the last panel. I was asking how you caulked the top like you did the bottom. Unless you have arms like elastic man it would be impossible. Similar builds, both. No, Mook has nowhere near my guns — 1 hour ago, MookieStl said: oh, you were trying to be funny!?!?!? don't He tries but this dry month must be taking its toll. He’s always on the sour side but his sense of humor was left behind with his last shot of Weller’s - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MookieStl Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 15 minutes ago, richieb said: He tries but this dry month must be taking its toll. He’s always on the sour side but his sense of humor was left behind with his last shot of Weller’s - I forgot about dry January. Bless his heart. Bet its rough on him to see reality for 30 straight days. Monday's gunna be rough on us as he will thinks he's funny again. It's so sad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MookieStl Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 56 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: Trying to ask "why do something on one side you can't do on the other " in a round about way. All accessible vertical and horizontal seams were sealed with the Loctite adhesive caulk before the top was added. By putting a continuous bead of the adhesive on the entire maze and exterior boards prior to laying the top piece on, I in essence sealed them off as well (to the best I could) Just playing with the cards I was dealt and doing the best I could come up with. Without Richie's rubber arms, I couldn't figure out a better solution. You got one? Monday (february) is right around the corner, hang in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbk Posted January 31, 2021 Author Share Posted January 31, 2021 13 hours ago, DizRotus said: I can’t speak for Mike, but I spread a thin layer of Loctite on the underside of the remaining side (top) panel around the perimeter and where it meets the inner baffle panels. Then I put a thick bead of Loctite in the corresponding locations of the assembled box. Carefully lowering it straight down into place forced the viscous Loctite to squeeze out, sealing the joints. The pre-drilled screw holes assured the alignment of the panel and the tight seal against the inner panels. The dado cuts of the four flat packs were easier and more reassuring, but the Loctite and patience resulted in a strong and leak-free scratch-built unit number five. If were using veneered panels, or if for any other reason using screws through the side panels were to be avoided, I would install at least two guide pins diagonally in two corners of the box to assure alignment. To accomplish that without piercing the veneer, I would insert wood screws into the corners of the box down the point where the threads are fully into the wood. I would then cut the heads off the screws and grind the stumps to a point. With assistance, I would place the side panel on the pointed pegs to mark the location for holes in the panel to receive the pegs. Again with assistance, I would use a drill press to drill holes to a depth of one half the thickness of the panel. The points would be ground off the pegs leaving a smooth peg slightly shorter than the depth of the corresponding hole in the panel. That’s a lot of work to avoid piercing veneer, but I would want the assurance of alignment provided by the guide pins. The glued panel would still need to be held in place by weights and/or clamps until the Loctite cured. If I wanted veneer, I would apply veneer AFTER assembling the boxes and hiding imperfections, screws, etc with Bondo. Fortunately, in my basement man-cave veneer was unnecessary. I prefer the rounded corner look using a router and the “hides a multitude of sins” coverage of textured Duratex. That said, I greatly admire the skill and persistence required to cover large boxes with beautiful hardwood veneers. Never done any veneer work except for edge work and yes it is beautiful when done correctly. Maybe this year I will give it a try. I build one box ( 4 sides and a bottom panel) and hope to get the baffle panels in tomorrow. I bought 2 cheap corner clamps from harbor freight (3.99 each) to hold a corner of the box and used a spade bit to drill pocket joints. (No jig) Worked ok but I bought a single hole pocket jig today to put together the other box. I plan on using a couple of pocket joints on each baffel panel. One on bottom front and one on top back of each panel. This should hold panels in straight I hope. For the last 20 1/8 by 30 inch panel I am going to really on pl premium to hold it in place. Only place I can put in screws without them being scene would be the on bottom of the box. Not sure how much that will help but might do it anyway. Think the pl premium will hold? So pl premium should hold. For alinement pins I am going to use 1 inch finishing nails. Use the nails ss a drill bit going down about 3/4 of an inch, point end towards drill. Use drill as a stop, once in release nail from drill where point end sticks up. Pl premium all end panels and carefully set last panel and aline. Clamp weight and make sure last panel s completely down as far as it can go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 22 hours ago, richieb said: Poor baby. Have a drink - oh sorry. Forgot it’s still January. Double poor baby — 🥃 Just a few hours left............ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 (edited) 5 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: Just a few hours left............ Got a bottle of bourbon to have a drink with you tomorrow...🤔 Albeit long distance. Edited February 1, 2021 by billybob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 25 minutes ago, billybob said: Got a bottle of bourbon to have a drink with you tomorrow...🤔 Albeit long distance. Deal. Ill need to find some up here. That's on my to do list for tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbk Posted February 2, 2021 Author Share Posted February 2, 2021 On 1/28/2021 at 10:14 PM, CECAA850 said: What is your question? Is there an alternative to quiet liner, I can only find larger rolls. Home depot sell's cotton duct liner by frost King in smaller amounts, would that work. Could I use polyfill? Would rather get offline so I can get these boxes done, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhound Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 I never used any internal fill in the ones I built. I don't believe the plans call for any? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbk Posted February 2, 2021 Author Share Posted February 2, 2021 1 hour ago, rockhound said: I never used any internal fill in the ones I built. I don't believe the plans call for any? A plan on avs forum (reed exodus anarchy 25hz tapped horn) use quiet liner in all corners, even baffles. Curious, how many of you guys used fill in your build? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 22 minutes ago, Lbk said: A plan on avs forum (reed exodus anarchy 25hz tapped horn) use quiet liner in all corners, even baffles. Curious, how many of you guys used fill in your build? Didn't use it. Were there before and after graphs showing with and without? I can't imagine there would be much of a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MookieStl Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 didn't use any either. I did see a photo using the liner but it was after I had done mine. I dont think it was in the original plans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbk Posted February 2, 2021 Author Share Posted February 2, 2021 33 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: Didn't use it. Were there before and after graphs showing with and without? I can't imagine there would be much of a difference. Charts from lil Mike but doesn't state with or without quiet liner. (Skimmed over thread, 50 some pages long) Have to assume test was with liner? Home depot has a similar cotton duct liner cheaper and in a smaller quantity. Can't hurt so I think I will try it, it's only about 13 bucks. Yes, the thread with pic lists quiet liner on building materials sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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