Got_Horns Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 I have a pair of very nice condition klf20s. I need them to be right next to a wall and was wondering the best way to do this. I don't really want to drill and patch because their great original condition. Although I don't see myself ever selling these so...? Would a pvc port wrap around, sound just as good? Or something else? Up for suggestions. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuzzzer Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 I’d just leave them as-is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Horns Posted February 9, 2023 Author Share Posted February 9, 2023 3 hours ago, wuzzzer said: I’d just leave them as-is. But then I can't push them up against the wall?....I have them 10" away but need them as close as possible. I'm either going to drill a front port or PVC pipe wrapped around to the front. Or perhaps someone has another suggestion. Mods if this is the wrong forum please move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang_flht Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 Hi @Got_Horns You can close the rear vents and make 2 vents under the speaker, then put a stand or spikes to raise it. It may be necessary to change the length of the tubes a little, but for that it will be necessary to experiment. You can even make a foot that sends the wave forward and will be less sensitive to the back wall. Everything is invisible except the new foot or the spikes: if you're a good handyman, it can fit perfectly. The only drawback is that the speaker will be 1 or 1 1/2 inches higher. the result may look like the one on the right or the one on the left 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Horns Posted February 9, 2023 Author Share Posted February 9, 2023 6 hours ago, mustang_flht said: Hi @Got_Horns You can close the rear vents and make 2 vents under the speaker, then put a stand or spikes to raise it. It may be necessary to change the length of the tubes a little, but for that it will be necessary to experiment. You can even make a foot that sends the wave forward and will be less sensitive to the back wall. Everything is invisible except the new foot or the spikes: if you're a good handyman, it can fit perfectly. The only drawback is that the speaker will be 1 or 1 1/2 inches higher. the result may look like the one on the right or the one on the left Thank you ❤️ this was exactly what I was looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCG Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 6 hours ago, mustang_flht said: Hi @Got_Horns You can close the rear vents and make 2 vents under the speaker, then put a stand or spikes to raise it. It may be necessary to change the length of the tubes a little, but for that it will be necessary to experiment. the result may look like the one on the right or the one on the left That stand on the left is the one that I want to get for my KG-3.5. I want it 99% semi attached to the speaker cabinet. Any takes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 Sell them and find some Epic CF-3's which are front ported. Problem solved! lol I had the same issue with KLF-30's and their rear ports not allowing them to work like I needed them to in our last house. The dual 10" CF-3's sounded night and day better than the dual 12" KLF-30's in that particular room. But I agree completely that rear ported or rear passives do sometimes make it tough to sound right in some rooms where you just can't, or don't want to for aesthetic reasons, have them so close to a wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 @Got_Horns the only way around your problem is to create space between the wall and the ports . move the speakers as far out as you can from the wall / 6 to 8 inches , then make a sealed opening in the wall , behind the speaker's ports , let's say a 1 foot high x 1 foot deep box ( IF the wall is sheetrock with NO pipes or electrical ) 18 to 20 inches of space between the ports and the recessed wall should be ample enough to allow the ports to work , and , no need to touch the cabinets . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Horns Posted February 9, 2023 Author Share Posted February 9, 2023 15 minutes ago, OO1 said: @Got_Horns the only way around your problem is to create space between the wall and the ports . move the speakers as far out as you can from the wall / 6 to 8 inches , then make a sealed opening in the wall , behind the speaker's ports , let's say a 1 foot high x 1 foot deep box ( IF the wall is sheetrock with NO pipes or electrical ),- 18 to 20 inches of space between the ports and the recessed wall should be ample enough to allow the ports to work , and , no need to touch the cabinets . Good suggestion, but it's in an RV...I'm not drilling holes in the outside wall. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 9 hours ago, mustang_flht said: Hi @Got_Horns You can close the rear vents and make 2 vents under the speaker, then put a stand or spikes to raise it. It may be necessary to change the length of the tubes a little, but for that it will be necessary to experiment. You can even make a foot that sends the wave forward and will be less sensitive to the back wall. Everything is invisible except the new foot or the spikes: if you're a good handyman, it can fit perfectly. The only drawback is that the speaker will be 1 or 1 1/2 inches higher. the result may look like the one on the right or the one on the left I have Martin DJango XLs that are ported this way. I put a solid wood plate below them as a stand as my room needs the bass extension. The OP does not want to cut the speakers so this really isn't an option. To answer the question, if he extends the port as a wrap around, it will change the tuning. I'm with @wuzzzer, leave them alone. The thing that was not mentioned is that if the speakers are right against the wall, there will be reflections from the drivers. Not optimal at all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 57 minutes ago, Got_Horns said: it's in an RV... Tx for pointing it out 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 If you are willing to move the ports to the front, I would get a calculator the can give you the correct rectangular/slot and put it in the front. But you are messing with Klipsch's design at this point. I've never liked ports on the back (or passives), but I'm certainly not an engineer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Horns Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 3 hours ago, Marvel said: If you are will to move the ports to the front, I would get a calculator the can give you the correct rectangular/slot and put it in the front. But you are messing with Klipsch's design at this point. I've never liked ports on the back (or passives), but I'm certainly not an engineer. I think I'm going to do the wrap around and see how it sounds.. it's not in an optimal position now, so it might be an improvement. If that doesn't work, I really like the down firing port. Increasing the height of speaker would probably be beneficial anyway.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter P. Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 If you go through with the modification, please post pics and a review! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 If you are willing to cut the bottom of the speakers, you can cut a large hole and build a short base with a front firing slot port. Put a plug in the rear port and if you ever sell them, you can just include a base (piece of wood) with some feet from Partsexpress that can be attached to the bottom if someone wants the rear firing ports. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Horns Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 10 hours ago, Peter P. said: If you go through with the modification, please post pics and a review! Absolutely. I have to dig in there anyways to reinforce the cabinets. Should probably do everything at same time. Wonder if Mr crites is up? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Horns Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 9 hours ago, tigerwoodKhorns said: If you are willing to cut the bottom of the speakers, you can cut a large hole and build a short base with a front firing slot port. Put a plug in the rear port and if you ever sell them, you can just include a base (piece of wood) with some feet from Partsexpress that can be attached to the bottom if someone wants the rear firing ports. I like, where this is going... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 6 hours ago, Got_Horns said: I like, where this is going... Not the slot port mod but here are some simple bases that I made for a paid of old B&Ws. Just a piece of wood routered on the edge and painted black. You can use this to plug the hole if you ever want to use the rear port again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCG Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 This is an interesting topic. I was actually planning to modify my kg-3.5 to a more added chamber to increase the volume and switching the front to a back firing port. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Horns Posted February 11, 2023 Author Share Posted February 11, 2023 7 hours ago, CCG said: This is an interesting topic. I was actually panning to modify my kg-3.5 to a more added chamber to increase the volume and switching the front to a back firing port. Why in the world would you make it rear ported? Excuse my ignorance, but I don't see any advantage. Only a disadvantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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