Geo1 Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Not having any prior experience with staining or oiling wood, with some hesitation, I tried the technique of applying the boiling linseed oil by hand. The Quartets look really great and the doctor says that when I get the bandages and dressings off my hands, they'll be almost as good as new! (Just kidding, I couldn't resist.) Did the boiled linseed oil and I'm very happy with the result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunnysal Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 you didn't real boil the linseed oil did you? wierd joke. tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymd Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 LOL Your not the first. People who have never heard of it sometimes really think you have to boil it. Good joke though. BLO really works miracles though. I've used it on all kinds of things. Furniture, speakers, basically anything made from unvarnished wood. My handcarved fireplace bellows is now a thing of beauty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Mark, I think that Tung oil actually dries to a harder, less porous finish. Which would probably give a bit more gloss and seal the wood more. Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2K Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Marvel is correct. Tung oil is more a sealer whereas BLO is more of a conditioner, I guess you could say. I haven't tried using BLO over a surface previously sealed with TO, but I doubt you would get good penetration. Everyone knows good penetration is important! TO is/was available in several sheens. Several coats of low gloss will seal the surface and give a handrubbed appearance. After using TO, don't forget to squeeze the container to force out air, lest the remaining product will harden. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymd Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 I've been told NEVER to mix the two. If you've used BLO then apply TO, you will regret it (so I'm told). Stick with one or the other. I found that after applying BLO, a good buffing with 0000 steel wool gives it a really nice finish and takes away the stickyness that BLO sometimes leaves behind, especially in more humid climates. It worked really well for me on my maple cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1 Posted July 7, 2003 Author Share Posted July 7, 2003 I rubbed the BLO in with 0000 steel wool, following the grain, and then rubbed the surface with a clean piece of the steel wool. It left a very nice, low luster finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilbert Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 It is OK to mix these 2 particular finishes together. In fact master wood workers/finisher's prefer too mix finishes together. The link below should provide some additional information. However, I don't understand why anyone would want to put anything but an origional type finish on such a fine product as a KLIPSCH speaker. http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00076.asp I recently refinished some 67 Cornwall's. Final sanding was accomplished with 600 grit. After all my laboring, I learned the hardway about the price you pay if you apply too much boiled linseed oil. My first mistake was not wiping the excess off after 15 or 20 min. My second mistake was applying an additional coat on top of an already sticky (in spotty areas) surface. FYI, boiled linseed oil is actually not boiled, it's cured by blowing hot air across it. The cured/boiled linseed oil is prefered for the denser woods types. Boiled linseed oil dries faster than raw linseed oil. Check out "Bird" brand Linseed oil's web page for additional information about linseed oil (boiled or raw). RUBBING OFF THE STICKY SPOTS SUCKS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo1 Posted July 7, 2003 Author Share Posted July 7, 2003 ---------------- On 7/7/2003 7:23:55 PM Gilbert wrote: RUBBING OFF THE STICKY SPOTS SUCKS! ---------------- OK, everybody, back away from the keyboard. It's too obvious and you'll never respect yourself in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reel 2 reel Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 you could try regular "lemon oil"....works great on my oiled walnut fortes'...bout every 3-4 monthes......and no burns on my hands either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Boiled Linseed Oil should be cut with 2 parts Mineral Spirits before use. Only mix enough for each application. Also, you should never wait longer than 10 minutes before rubbing out. After 24 hours (actually dries in 12 to 18), follow up with a good paste wax. Now, a much better product for this, especially if you are dealing with scratches and watermarks -- is Howard's Restore A-Finish. There is absolutely no better product on the market for the restoration of natural finishes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregorius Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 ---------------- On 7/9/2003 6:53:12 AM DeanG wrote: Boiled Linseed Oil should be cut with 2 parts Mineral Spirits before use. Only mix enough for each application. Also, you should never wait longer than 10 minutes before rubbing out. After 24 hours (actually dries in 12 to 18), follow up with a good paste wax. ---------------- You should never use any kind of wax on an oiled finish. It seals the grain and prevents further applications of oil from penetrating. Do a forum search on this topic from HDBRbuilder. Regards, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Hey, I just follow the directions on the back of the cans. I've also spent quite a bit of time researching this stuff. Yes, wax will seal the grain. The idea here is to "finish" the wood. That's the whole point -- to seal the grain and "protect" the wood. Why do you want to rub Linseed Oil into your wood every year? Why not "seal" and "finish" it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Andy is right do not but wax over BOL,,,,the factory didnt why should we......I'm sure Andy knows how to take care of this wood,more than any of us do,but if you insist on putting wax over it good luck....rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregorius Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 ---------------- On 7/9/2003 7:59:20 AM DeanG wrote: Yes, wax will seal the grain. The idea here is to "finish" the wood. That's the whole point -- to seal the grain and "protect" the wood. Why do you want to rub Linseed Oil into your wood every year? Why not "seal" and "finish" it? ---------------- Wax itself provides very little protection to the wood, hence watermarks etc. If you just want to protect and forget the finish why not use lacquer/varnish, or better yet polyurethane and call it a day. I happen to like a hand rubbed oil finish, it has a warm glow, it is very easy to repair, and does not have that glossy look that many varnishes have. Actually Dean, I re-oil mine about every six months Regards, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymd Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 My zebrawood has a factory satin laquer finish and doesn't look glossy at all. The problem is, there are 1 or 2 areas where it looks as though the wood may be a tad dry, although you almost need a microscope to find them (I however know every square inch of them). Anyone know if anything can be done with a laquer finish that seems to be drying out? I can repost my pics if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 http://www.britain.tv/household_and_diy_waxingoilling_wood.htm http://www.flute-net.com/flute-info/articles/oil-2.htm http://okok.essortment.com/polishwood_riaq.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 http://www.ca.uky.edu/fcs/FACTSHTS/HF-LRA.053.PDF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregorius Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Dean, Notice that it says "if desired add a new coat of shellac or varnish, followed by a coat of wax to the surface for a high gloss finish and to protect the finished surface" Pentrating oil finishes are not all BLO, they are tung oil, Danish Oil etc. These finishes penetrate, harden, and seal the surface, try wiping BLO on top of a tung oil or danish oil finish, talk about a sticky mess, it will not penetrate. They are penetrating oil finishes, but not the same as BLO. As I said if you want more protection go with a poly varnish or lacquer. Gary, I did not mean that all lacquers were glossy. The primary difference is that BLO penetrates and does not leave a finish on top of the wood, it penetrates the wood itself, where lacquer/varnish hardens on top of the wood. You can strip the lacquer off of the wood and there is relatively little penetration into the wood itself. As for your Corns, I would use lemon oil or Scotts Liquid Gold to clean them and follow that with a good coat of paste wax to restore the finish (see Dean I am not anti-wax) I believe that HDBR said the reason that Klipsch is dropping the Oil Finishes is that they are much more labor intensive than the lacquer. When you initially apply an oil finish you have to apply many coats over a period of time, vs spraying the speaker with a lacquer in a paint booth, plus it is easier to maintain for the average person. I have a solid walnut box I made in shop class 25 yrs ago that I finished in hand-rubbed BLO. All I have to do to restore it original sheen is to apply a coat of BLO once a year! Other projects that I varnished around that time have not fared so well. Regards, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymd Posted July 9, 2003 Share Posted July 9, 2003 Greg, I knew that wasn't your intent but wanted others to know that a laquer finish can be something other than glossy (look at my pics under "zebrawood cornwall pics" and you'll see what I mean). Mine were cleaned with wood soap and they went from speakers that almost looked their age to brand new looking speakers! It was almost a miracle. Maybe I'll try a little lemon oil on a safe spot (maybe back of riser) and see what happens. I don't think it's an emergency since they are looking so great right now but maybe down the road I'll want to give them a little juice. Thanks for the advice. - Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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