lynnm Posted March 9, 2005 Share Posted March 9, 2005 Yes probably but you will spend 3 times as much effort and not do as good a job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted March 9, 2005 Share Posted March 9, 2005 ---------------- On 3/9/2005 2:23:29 PM seti wrote: I finally bought some rope caulk this week to do my belles but i am nervous about talking out the horn is it possible to do without pulling it out ? ---------------- You can do it from the rear with Dynamat or a similiar product from Parts Express or your local car sound shop. That's how I did my LaScala horn. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seadog Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 ---------------- On 3/9/2005 1:15:35 PM ram87 wrote: Seadog thanks for the info Is'n thecrossover for the cornwall/LaScala at 6K???? isn't it sharp enuff??? or is something not right?? to stil be worhing at 3K above crossover sounds like crossover not sharp enuff i could be worng. What is the frequ range of the K55 ram87 ---------------- Here is my understanding of where and how the P-trap works: The simple crossover networks like the B used in the Cornwall used only a high pass filter (a capacitor) for the squawker rather than a band pass filter (which would include an inductor and a cap). The idea was that the squawker naturally cuts off at around 6kHz, so the high pass was all that was needed. However, the early K-55-V drivers (before about 1980) had the 9kHz peak, and need the P-trap to eliminate the current at 9kHz. The newer K-55-V drivers (with the solder-on connectors) dont need a P-trap, even with a simple network, because a design change in the phase plug fixed this problem. Also, networks like the ALK dont need a P-trap even when using the older K-55-V. The P-trap works because at 9kHz the inductive reactance equals the capacitive reactance. The current through the inductor and the capacitor are equal but out of phase, so the impedance of the circuit is extremely high at that frequency. (Disclaimer: I am a mechanical engineer and it has been 25 years since I took a circuits course). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ram87 Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 Thanks Seadog you are so right do you know if ALK's network cures this problem Yes squalkers need banpass not just high pass thanks ram87 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBrennan Posted March 12, 2005 Share Posted March 12, 2005 The fella tht developed the P Trap (a very experienced old horny and friend of PWK) reports that about 20% of the K-55 drivers he tested had the 9khz flare. One can't assume that one needs a P Trap but it's a good thing to try if your certain older Klipsch sounds harsh and fierce. On the other hand if your LaScala or Heresy sounds harsh and fierce it may simply be working properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.4knee Posted March 12, 2005 Author Share Posted March 12, 2005 ---------------- On 3/12/2005 6:33:15 PM TBrennan wrote: On the other hand if your LaScala or Heresy sounds harsh and fierce it may simply be working properly. ---------------- Or it could just be you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynnm Posted March 12, 2005 Share Posted March 12, 2005 One caveat I used the Butyl Rubber Tape I found at a local RV dealer and paid about C$20.00 for a 25 foot roll. I later found the same product at a hardware store in a blister pack labelled as Plumber's Tape at C$4.95 for a 6" strip. Therefore as Butyl Rubber Tape it cost 1.25/ft and as Plumber's Tape it sold at C$ 9.90/ft!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBrennan Posted March 12, 2005 Share Posted March 12, 2005 J4---What, me?!? I must admit the possibilty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IB Slammin Posted March 12, 2005 Share Posted March 12, 2005 .....On the other hand if your LaScala or Heresy sounds harsh and fierce it may simply be working properly....... After 30 years, I would say...YEP....It is what it is... Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.4knee Posted March 12, 2005 Author Share Posted March 12, 2005 ---------------- On 3/12/2005 10:15:14 PM TBrennan wrote: J4---What, me?!? I must admit the possibilty. ---------------- LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted March 13, 2005 Share Posted March 13, 2005 If you take the horn out you might try the idea Andy mentioned a long time ago...there are seams and rough stuff in the throat of the horn,,,i rigged up a long rod with emry cloth on it and smoothed the whole inside of mine down.I was using this industrial enamel from lowes for the sides of Ks im redoing it stays flexable ,,,so i tried it on one horn and it seemed to help the ringing ,although i dont think they ring when installed ..but i could be wrong.Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted March 13, 2005 Share Posted March 13, 2005 Would the RF7 horn benifit from this caulking mod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted March 13, 2005 Share Posted March 13, 2005 Also, I've read so much various information in this thread I lost track of things... Can you just use plain ol puddy? Also what about drying out? Does any of this puddy dry over time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 13, 2005 Share Posted March 13, 2005 Moon, my Loews store didn't have the Moretite brand, but instead its FrostKing Fingertip Rope Caulk # P24 or www.frostkind.com. It's for idiots who can't use a caulking gun. Find it where door weatherstriping, etc is kept. It's gray clay-like stuff that stays pliable, doesn't every dry out or crack. (sez so on da box) The box of 19 oz is a roll of 3/16 bead 90 feet long, but it's on roll with 8 'threads' together on a slab, so basically you have this slab 1 1/2" wide x 11 feet long. Cut slabs and smash em on the flat surfaces of horn, take a couple more feet and wrap around the throat and give it a listen. Looks like most folks smoosh it on a couple layers deep and someone said 8 boxes for 2 LS. So I bought 4 boxes tonight to play with a Corn horn. Probably 2 boxes per Corn horn should be enough. It's only like $4 per box, so I wouldn't try regular clay or plumbers putty. More can't possibly hurt. Never seen anyone use anything over it, so it must stay on okay. Only use it on the metal Mid horns (some put it on the spokes of the woofer basket. Plastic 601, 401 horns do not need the caulking mod, they are resonant free already. Just thump em with a fingernail to see if they ring. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted March 13, 2005 Share Posted March 13, 2005 When you use the rope caulk, keep a wet sponge to keep your hands moist. Otherwise it likes to stick to your fingers as you press it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodger Posted March 14, 2005 Share Posted March 14, 2005 ---------------- On 3/8/2005 9:21:35 PM psg wrote: The openning in the back of my La Scala's is on the small side; it doesn't go the full width of the speaker as I have sometimes seenm in pictures. Should I remove the horns to do this? Will I kill myself trying if I don't? Will it be easy to remove and put back? ---------------- The easiest with less potential for damage method is to remove the tops. dodger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.4knee Posted March 16, 2005 Author Share Posted March 16, 2005 There is no top on La Scalas to remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 "There is no top on La Scalas to remove." Older units are top loaders. On trap shaped pro units it comes out the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky588 Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 ---------------- On 3/5/2005 11:29:55 PM J.4knee wrote: OK I just roped caulked my squawkers in my La Scala’s, 720 ft (8 boxes) between the two. First impression is the mid’s are smoother yet more defined. Everything seems to integrate just a little better. Now granted the changes are subtle but noticeable. I did the ring the horns thing before and after and yeah they are pretty well damped now. It will take some getting used to, I listened to the un-caulked for 21 years, they are still snappy on snares but not as edgy. I think I am going to like this. Has anyone ever done the tweeters? Somehow the tweeters sound a little clearer, could be a placebo affect not sure about that yet. After I have some serious listening under my belt I’ll write more. ---------------- After reading all the replys on this topic I have a question. I have used glazing (putty) strips which comes in 25ft lengths from Home Depot on my horns for the Cornwalls. What I would like to know is it possible to disconnect the driver from the horn and dip/coat the horn in rubber/neopreen inside and out and of course masking off areas which do not need it. Has anyone tried this? Thoughts or concerns? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 ricky588 Good question. I've wondered the same, but I would imagine you would not want anything inside the horn itself. If you can caulk them, can you have them dipped in brass as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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