Bonzo Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 Well, they're done? Thanks to all the help and suggestions from you guys, I am finally very happy with my Heresy's! Got the angled risers, damped the mid horn with Dynamat, had Bob Crites upgrade the crossovers, even spiked the risers. I am sure they sound as good now as they are going to sound which is, IMHO, awesome! The crossovers helped the most. I would highly recommend anyone looking to get the best out of their 20+ year old Heresy's to send the crossovers to Bob, you will be impressed! One question, those damned screw binding posts! Any real benefit in in replacing with some good 5 ways or is it a waste of time? Thanks again for all the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott0527 Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 The only benefit I see would be convenience in hooking and unhooking your wires. The sound won't be any different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 The convenience of binding posts is very nice. I've made the same change on my Heresys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunburnwilly Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 Can I ask how much it costs to have the Heresey crossovers upgraded ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunnysal Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 does bob just upgrade parts or mod the crossover in some way? I was very interested in the DJK mod...regards, tony btw congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbajner Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 how did you guys do the binding posts upgrade on the Hersey's? i have a pair from 1978 and would sure love to do that upgrade to them can someone send a pic? did you leave the old connections in place and drill new holes? i need info on this please thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott0527 Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 does bob just upgrade parts or mod the crossover in some way? I was very interested in the DJK mod...regards, tony btw congrats! Bob usually follows the original circuit using new parts as far as I know. Although for Khorns and LaScalas he makes an A/AA that can be swithced between the A or the AA. Send PM to memeber BEC. He'll give you prices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 You won't get any better connection using 5-way binding posts, but they are way more convenient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duke Spinner Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 + 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 I like the stock terminal strips and bare wire or tinned spades. I prefer something I can really tighten down. Tony - I believe the DJK mod simply involves dropping down on the taps and putting a 15 ohm resistor in parallel with the squawker. Maybe you're thinking of John Albright's network - constant impedance first order filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 Dean, Dennis posted two things: For an HII (to smooth out the midrange): in series with a cap the same value as the one across the woofer and wire an L-pad (terminals 2 and 3) in series with that. Place the LCR trap in parallel with the woofer. Start out with the L-pad at max resistance (full CCW). Play pink noise through the system and adjust the L-pad untill the 'howl' in the midrange goes away. Replace the L-pad with a fixed resistor of the same value. The wire gauge of this inductor is not important. If you have replaced the stock inductor with a high-zoot one, use the stock one in the LCR trap. Woofer change for Heresy: "on sale at parts express right now. should be close enough" It's not really like either the old or new Delta 12LF, but it is a good driver. In a Heresy box it will be 96dB/2.83V and -5dB at 80hz with a Qtc=0.5, good for home theater with the 'small' setting. With a 4" dia vent 6.5" long it will be -5dB at 45hz. It will be capable of at least 6dB more output below 100hz than a stock Heresy woofer. The current Delta 12LF is 98dB/2.83V and can be vented to be -5dB at 50hz or 70hz sealed and stuffed with a Qtc=0.577 (best transient response of the sealed alignments). The T2A is tapped at 98dB with the old Heresy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 Woofer change for Heresy: "on sale at parts express right now. should be close enough" It's not really like either the old or new Delta 12LF, but it is a good driver. In a Heresy box it will be 96dB/2.83V and -5dB at 80hz with a Qtc=0.5, good for home theater with the 'small' setting. With a 4" dia vent 6.5" long it will be -5dB at 45hz. It will be capable of at least 6dB more output below 100hz than a stock Heresy woofer. The current Delta 12LF is 98dB/2.83V and can be vented to be -5dB at 50hz or 70hz sealed and stuffed with a Qtc=0.577 (best transient response of the sealed alignments). The T2A is tapped at 98dB with the old Heresy. Marvel, did you use some software to come up with the "tuning" of the Delta LF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 I generated that data using BassBox v 6.0.19 pro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 Yeah, that info is ALL Dennis' fault! [] Credit must go where credit is due. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 Is there a free download version of that software? I've been using a different one that works pretty good. Would like to try another one. By the way, that Delta woofer is on ebay right now.http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7346872266&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunnysal Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 dean I was talking about this (thanks marvel for posting it): "Wire an inductor with the same value as the woofer inductor in series with a cap the same value as the one across the woofer and wire an L-pad (terminals 2 and 3) in series with that. Place the LCR trap in parallel with the woofer. Start out with the L-pad at max resistance (full CCW). Play pink noise through the system and adjust the L-pad untill the 'howl' in the midrange goes away. Replace the L-pad with a fixed resistor of the same value. The wire gauge of this inductor is not important. If you have replaced the stock inductor with a high-zoot one, use the stock one in the LCR trap." so it comes out to 15 ohms? I may try this though I would think that someone probably has figured out the right values without me having to futz with a lpad in parallel, unless I am missing the point... regards, tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dflip Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 I put a pair of 5-way binding posts on my Cornwalls. It allows a couple of options for connecting the speakers and you can place the posts closer to the ground. Of course, you need to get a longer piece of wire on the inside. It is a lot easier to pull a plug out that use the screwdriver to untighten the connection. Also heavier gauge wire flops easier if it is closer to the ground, at least on my Cornwalls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Adams Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 I've replaced all of the terminal connectors on my Heresy's and Cornwalls with 5-way binding posts from Radio Shack. Here's a sample. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 "so it comes out to 15 ohms? I may try this though I would think that someone probably has figured out the right values without me having to futz with a lpad in parallel, unless I am missing the point..." The variable resistor (terminals 2 and 3 on the L-pad) is in series with the inductor and the capacitor. The resistance is adjusted for the depth of notch the LCR trap makes. It is best tuned in place as I described. The resistor usually ends up in the range of 5~10 ohms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunnysal Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 I will give this a try...tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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