Cherry Lacquer Cornwall III arrived!!! No longer Klipschless in Ohio.

[jwc]

Sonic R.

I apologize. I asked you a question and you answered it and I am just now seeing you responses. They new face of the forum messed me up with keeping up with "my posts".

I know you put the grills back on there and I appreciate you take the chance of taking them off. It is always a little scary with new speakers isn't it.

Anyway, if you ever decide to take them off again, could you do me a favor. Shine a light into the port openings and look at the port shelf. Yes you wouls have to put you head on the floor. You may not be able to see it. However, you could put you measuring tape in there and measure the length of the back of the port shelf to the front of the motorboard. That would be very helpful and informative. I again appreciate the info you have provided already.

Here is what it looks like on the original Cornwall.

jc

[jwc]

Here is what the shelf looks like with the motorbard off. This was for my Cornscala project. The shelf is 9 inches deep. With the motor board it is 9" plus 3/4" for a total of 9 3/4" from back of the shelf to the motorboard.

Thanks. Only check this out if you ever fell like taking the grill off again. Sorry for the late response. Bad timing on my part.

jc

[jwc]

Here is what it looked like on the inside of my Cornscala. Note: This cabinet is shorter and fatter but the port is identical to the original Cornwall. Just wondered if they used the same one again.

jc

[DrWho]

However, you could put you measuring tape in

there and measure the length of the back of the port shelf to the front

of the motorboard. That would be very helpful and informative. I

again appreciate the info you have provided already.

Ah...what a loaded piece of info. I'm glad you asked about it. I'm sure

we'll get the chance to measure while in Hope this summer (someone

remind me to take a tape measure).

Not to get too crazy off topic, but one thing all the pretty equations

and models don't account for is all the system non-linearities (air in

the cabinet, all the stuff going on with the driver, port issues, etc

etc...). It is quite possible that the old tuning of the cornwall was

optimized for the other stuff that goes on when the cone actually

starts moving (for instance, the tuning point actually gets lower as

SPL increases).

[jacksonbart]

Ohh ohh, can you dress them up in womens clothing and slowly undress them while taking pictures?

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Seriously nice speakers.

[jt1stcav]

Your new Cornwall IIIs are truely stunning...thanks for sharing your experiences (and pics) with us. []

[Deang]

Is it true the new Cornwall uses the K-700 from the Heresy? If so, seems like a step backwards to me.

[colterphoto1]

Yes, it is the same K701 that is used in the HIII, the molding for K601 was lost and I guess it must have been in the interest of manufacturing efficiency to use the same horn/driver combo in both boxes (versus designing new molding for the 601). Perhaps the new CIII woofer adequately covers the additional range. The crossover is very beefy and I would imagine the slopes are different that in CWII, but don't know this to be the case.

The exponential horn was kept as a tribute to PWK. They wanted to keep part of the original signature of the speaker's sound intact.

The standing wave that Dee spoke was quite a concern for Delgado and company. They experimented with several types of internal baffles and finally realized that they could eliminate the wave by moving the position of the woofer. Accelerometers placed inside the cabinet determined the exact location for the new woofer. It was a tedious process, even with the use of computers.

Michael

[jorjen]

Sonic Reaper,

I am not sure what you were eluding to regarding the veneer issue, but your Corns are natural Cherry wood veneer with a laquer or other clear topcoat. They do not appear to have been stained. Trust me when I say I know something about Cherry Cornwall's[].

Klipsch used to get their Baltic/Finnish Birch ply from the mill with veneers already applied. I am sure they are still doing something similar whether the cabinets are constructed of MDF or otherwise.

[Sonic Reaper]

Here is what the shelf looks like with the motorbard off. This was for my Cornscala project. The shelf is 9 inches deep. With the motor board it is 9" plus 3/4" for a total of 9 3/4" from back of the shelf to the motorboard.

Thanks. Only check this out if you ever fell like taking the grill off again. Sorry for the late response. Bad timing on my part.

jc

From the back of the port shelf to the front face I measured 7 inches. The board from which the horns and woofer are mounted has a thickness of .75 inches. From the back wall to the front face of the Cornwall III speaker I measured 14.25 inches.

[Sonic Reaper]

Anyway, if you ever decide to take them off again, could you do me a favor. Shine a light into the port openings and look at the port shelf. Yes you wouls have to put you head on the floor. You may not be able to see it. However, you could put you measuring tape in there and measure the length of the back of the port shelf to the front of the motorboard. That would be very helpful and informative. I again appreciate the info you have provided already.

From the back of the port shelf to the front face I measured 7 inches. The board from which the horns and woofer are mounted has a thickness of .75 inches. From the back wall to the front face of the Cornwall III speaker I measured 14.25 inches. Extending from the front face, the speaker sides provide a .25 inch lip that enclose the grill. The top of the speaker cabinet measures 15.5 inches by 25.25 inches. The height of the speaker cabinet measures 38 inches.

[colterphoto1]

Per Trey at our last visit to Hope, there are no large areas of veneer applied at the Klipsch factory. All wood products arrive pre-veneered, and Klipsch applies the edge banding only.

That is also the reason that the 'wrap-around' from one panel to the adjacent one might not be as pretty as in the olden days.

Surely these must have some type of protective coating on them. I know that the old BLO coating is no longer applied. Are you sure there is no lacquer? It may be a very thin coat, but hard to believe that it would be raw stained wood only.

And thanks for the allen wrench tip, nearly every pair of CW and H I own has that little indent from someone prying with a screwdriver. When I reveneer mine, I'm going to let a little space in the grille board to allow the allen wrench insertion easier. Good tip!

btw, congratulations on a very manly purchase $3K + isn't easy to come by. But someone had to get the first ones!

M

[jwc]

Sonic.

I can't thank you enough for that info. Those measurement are basically identical to the previous Cornwall except for the port.

I assume that the height of 38 inches is with the riser?

That port has shortened and maintains the same width. I can only assume the height is the same. Those port openings look identical to previous Cornwalls.

I will need to play with those port numbers to see what has been accomplished. I've always though the port should be shorter, thinner, etc.

thanks

jc

[Marvel]

Ohh ohh, can you dress them up in womens clothing and slowly undress them while taking pictures?

LMAO!!! They do look nice.

[TommyC]

WOW! Just Georgeous!!!

[johnyholiday]

Nice!no velcro thank god ,i would have thought they would have

contersunk the magnets on the motorboard,like a KG or

Chorus,,,,,,,,guitar picks are also good for grill removal, one in both

hands, an pinch an lift, don't pry, close to corner magnet until it

gives up it's grip,is it a Nitrocellulose Lacquer finish ,i have a

Faded Cherry Gibson ,if it is careful with rubber mates an only cotton

cloth to rub anything down, the finish will stun you just setting with

then off

[johnyholiday]

this might pertain maybe not, nice Mackie subs too: Over the past 100 years, most Gibson guitars, banjos and mandolins have been finished with nitrocellulose lacquer. (The alternatives are varnish, polyurethane or polyester.) Although nitrocellulose is the traditionally preferred finish, it is not the most durable. It scratches fairly easily, and without the proper care, it can crack or discolor.

With the proper care, a nitrocellulose lacquer finish will retain its beauty and functionality for decades.

Here are the Do's and Don'ts

DO...

1. Wipe off the finish with a 100% cotton cloth after every playing session. The guitar polishing cloths that come with some instruments and are available at most dealers are 100% cotton, but soft flannel is what repairmen use. This is the most important thing you can do for a lacquer finish. And while you're at it, wipe down any metal parts if needed.

2. Protect the instrument with a quality case. Hardshell is the best.

3. If you want to polish your instrument, use a high quality guitar polish only. Polishes vary in their chemical composition, and some have a reputation for damaging a finish, but the great majority of finish damage allegedly done by the polish is actually the result of using a cloth that is not 100% cotton. Be sure not to leave any excess polish on the instrument.

4. Check the climate where the guitar is kept or stored. To prolong the life of the finish and the guitar, humidity should remain a constant 45-50%. The rule of thumb for heat and humidity is, if you're comfortable, the guitar is comfortable.

5. When shipping or storing the instrument, tune down the strings a step.

DON'T...

1. Never wipe down the instrument with anything other than a 100% cotton cloth. Anything else will scratch and dull the shine.

2. Never put the instrument away with moisture, sweat, grease or anything else on it. Human sweat will quickly oxidize, dull, and destroy a lacquer finish if it is not wiped away before it is put up. Human sweat will also pit and tarnish metal parts if it is not wiped off after use.

3. Never open a cold case in a hot room, and vice versa. If you do encounter extremes in temperature and humidity, leave the instrument in its case so that it can slowly acclimate to the change. Opening a case in a heated room after it's spent a few hours in the unheated trunk of a car could have the same effect on lacquer as pouring boiling water into a cold glass. It will crack right before your eyes. the proper acclimation time depends on the severity of the change. When you decide to remove the instrument, gently crack the case open for a time to allow for a gradual change in temperature.

4. Don't let your belt buckle scratch your instrument. Prolonged belt buckle scratching will eventually remove the finish in that area.

5. Do not leave the instrument in direct sunlight. This will cause a colored finish to fade. Shades of red fade the fastest.

6. Do not use furniture polish or automotive polish or any abrasive polish. It may remove or destroy the finish.

7. Don't try to touch up scratches or dings. Your guitar will look as bad as a car with "factory touch up" paint dabbed on it. Some types of damage can be touched up without refinishing, but this work should be done only by an experienced repairman.

8. And finally, watch out for guitar or music stands that are not "lacquer friendly." The rubber tubing on many stands will eat through lacquer and stain the guitar through the finish into the wood.

[johnyholiday]

On grill removal, maybe small pull tabs for finger grip, or smaller

tucked out of veiw an hook them with a small allen wrench,some 4x12

cabs have pull tabs

[Sonic Reaper]

Over the past 100 years, most Gibson guitars, banjos and mandolins have been finished with nitrocellulose lacquer. (The alternatives are varnish, polyurethane or polyester.) Although nitrocellulose is the traditionally preferred finish, it is not the most durable. It scratches fairly easily, and without the proper care, it can crack or discolor. With the proper care, a nitrocellulose lacquer finish will retain its beauty and functionality for decades.

Or you could save some time with a carbon graphite "blow up" guitar. []

[colterphoto1]

Sonic.

I can't thank you enough for that info. Those measurement are basically identical to the previous Cornwall except for the port.

I assume that the height of 38 inches is with the riser?

That port has shortened and maintains the same width. I can only assume the height is the same. Those port openings look identical to previous Cornwalls.

I will need to play with those port numbers to see what has been accomplished. I've always though the port should be shorter, thinner, etc.

thanks

jc

JC-

Remember that's NOT a K33 in the CWIII. OOOPS- EDIT- I just checked the online spec sheets and it IS the K33E, I thought that Ray and Chris showed a different woofer in Hope last summer- does anyone remember this?

Dee??

Perhaps they did find something in the tuning with modern test equipment. Remember the original CW was designed trial and error before Thiel-Small parameters were published.

DrWho, the mere act of moving the position of the woofer wouldn't change the tuning of the cabinet, would it? If not, then it might be possible for us to modify the existing CW cabinets (with original woofer position) to reflect this new port dimensions- and therefore improve some aspect of the tuning?

Frankly, I love the LF of the CW and can't imagine retuning an existing cabinet, just throwing it out there for theoretical arguement, since it looked like JC was taking us there anyway.

M