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When Hobby turns to Business and Xmas Break


NOSValves

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I think some cool hot colors which aren't too gaudy are in order. Here's a couple of examples I like.

Also
Craig are you limited in the plate size? I still think something
should be done about placement of the center rectifiers.

post-14801-13819321178276_thumb.jpg

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..."I'm still considering the metal finish options for the flat plate work. I really have not received much feedback on the metal finish which is surprising."

I just assumed you'd stick with the grey powdercoat(?) you use on the VRDs.

Or you could go this route as a custom finish (for a mere grand more, eh?)...

Jim,

Only the first 7 sets of VRD's were powder coated. I found it to be a real pita and switched to brushed SS. I still have enough powder coated material to build 3 sets of amps that were not acceptable to many flaws and heavy orange peal. My own set are powder coated and I hate the stuff. I'd just a soon paint them myself as to go powder coating. I'm just about to pull the trigger on SS again. It shines pretty nice and is basically maintenance free. The only draw back I have found is cleaning it up it seems to always streak like your washing glass with a dirty towel.

Craig

Here are SS VRD's

post-7461-13819321179056_thumb.jpg

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I think some cool hot colors which aren't too gaudy are in order. Here's a couple of examples I like.

Also Craig are you limited in the plate size? I still think something should be done about placement of the center rectifiers.

Thebes does size matter? Ask the twins for me would ya LOL!!! What exactly do you mean. Move them how far back or forward?

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Nice...really nice!

Maybe it's the light in the room, but the brushed stainless-steel looks almost goldish in color...is it gold or champagne colored, rather than the usual silverish hue?

I think those metalic shades thebes chose are nice as well; definately unique and different from the norm (that is good, BTW). And maybe thebes means an arch layout similar to the Cary SLI-80 where the rectifiers are set back a tad...

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"I still have enough powder coated material to build 3 sets of amps that were not acceptable, too many flaws and heavy orange peal."

I haven't noticed orange peel on the parts at the ol' boat trailer factory, other than a bit of dust and a few small specs. But the place is a million years old, they are just boat trailers, and they more than likely have the powder-coating thing down to a science.

I've been wanting to tear down my 2A3 amp and have it coated at work in gloss black. But I want to see if I can wet sand the specs and bits of dust out first before I even bother.

I'm with you, the plain grained stainless looks nice.......Have you ever priced out getting the SS plates anodized? (Can one even anodize stainless steel?) That would be nice, grained with various options of color. Black, gold, blue, red, or just plain ol' stainless steel.

Automotive finishes?

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Has anyone ever considered film dipping chassis plates? All this talk has me wondering. There are many different finishes available via this method.

This is the method with which camo pattern are applied to things like archery equipment (aluminum) and gun stocks (plastic).

This nice web site is from a company is in Australia. There are US companies that perform these services. Even color chrome can be done with this process.

http://www.modicoat.com/index.htm

Rick

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..."I'm still considering the metal finish options for the flat plate work. I really have not received much feedback on the metal finish which is surprising."

I just assumed you'd stick with the grey powdercoat(?) you use on the VRDs.

Or you could go this route as a custom finish (for a mere grand more, eh?)...

Jim,

Only the first 7 sets of VRD's were powder coated. I found it to be a real pita and switched to brushed SS. I still have enough powder coated material to build 3 sets of amps that were not acceptable to many flaws and heavy orange peal. My own set are powder coated and I hate the stuff. I'd just a soon paint them myself as to go powder coating. I'm just about to pull the trigger on SS again. It shines pretty nice and is basically maintenance free. The only draw back I have found is cleaning it up it seems to always streak like your washing glass with a dirty towel.

Craig

Here are SS VRD's

Here is what I did on the 300B's I built. Counter sunk all holes that mount parts under the hood and cover the top with mirror finish stainless. I had it laser cut same as the alum. top plate just less the mounting holes. Then bonded the SS plate to the Alum. plate, after all internal parts were installed, using high temp permanent double sided tape. It was a fair amount of work but sure is prudy[:P]

post-7441-13819321194526_thumb.jpg

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I am SO going to Black Hammerite my VRD transformers. And yes, those shiney screw heads will be black as well. They will pick up the cute black on/off button in the front and make a perfect backdrop for the tube's glow. Then I will be happy. I wouldn't mind the face plate being black myself, but a silver sheen would be nice. Battle ship grey does not go with the wood finish at all. It's not warm, doesn't go with anything, and is just plain cold. I want to create a Tuxedo version. Actually, a copper plate might be pretty cool. I think it would gel better with the wood and maybe echo the tube glow color. Or I want a black box to toss over the transformers. But in a nice finish. Not just plain black thin looking metal. Or perhaps silver domes as appeared on some pretty amp shown here recently.

Basically Craig - I'd suggest losing the grey. I want my VRDs Grecian Formula'd.


Edit: Rigma - I like that look! Black backdrop to the tubes.

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3Dzapper

I think you misread my question.I'm not looking for transformers- I'm looking for the cover cans to go over the transformers to dress things up a bit

Rigma

I like what you did with the second "finish" plate with your amp. Hiding all the socket screws is a nice touch. I guess you had to router the chassis a little deeper so it ended up "flush" to the top? Also, what schematics did you use to create the mono-block amps? Looks like maybe JE Labs 6sn7>300B (I built the integrated version 76>5692>300B )

Great sounding SET for very little $$ IMO [:D]

Regards WOT

In something as fancy as that, I'm surprised the transformer is exposed?

Speaking of that, has any of the DIYers here ever found a decent source for metal cover cans for their trannies??

(I've just made my own with various materials which is a royal PITA!)

WOT

http://www.triodeelectronics.com/dytr.html

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3Dzapper

I think you misread my question.I'm not looking for transformers- I'm looking for the cover cans to go over the transformers to dress things up a bit

Rigma

I like what you did with the second "finish" plate with your amp. Hiding all the socket screws is a nice touch. I guess you had to router the chassis a little deeper so it ended up "flush" to the top? Also, what schematics did you use to create the mono-block amps? Looks like maybe JE Labs 6sn7>300B (I built the integrated version 76>5692>300B )

Great sounding SET for very little $$ IMO [:D]

Regards WOT

In something as fancy as that, I'm surprised the transformer is exposed?

Speaking of that, has any of the DIYers here ever found a decent source for metal cover cans for their trannies??

(I've just made my own with various materials which is a royal PITA!)

WOT

http://www.triodeelectronics.com/dytr.html

Thanks,

I used the angela schematic but added 100 uf capacitor plus a second 10 h choke to beef up the power supply, which is mounted on the back of the case and not seen in that pic. but here.

post-7441-13819321196656_thumb.jpg

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I am SO going to Black Hammerite my VRD transformers. And yes, those shiney screw heads will be black as well. They will pick up the cute black on/off button in the front and make a perfect backdrop for the tube's glow. Then I will be happy. I wouldn't mind the face plate being black myself, but a silver sheen would be nice. Battle ship grey does not go with the wood finish at all. It's not warm, doesn't go with anything, and is just plain cold. I want to create a Tuxedo version. Actually, a copper plate might be pretty cool. I think it would gel better with the wood and maybe echo the tube glow color. Or I want a black box to toss over the transformers. But in a nice finish. Not just plain black thin looking metal. Or perhaps silver domes as appeared on some pretty amp shown here recently.

Basically Craig - I'd suggest losing the grey. I want my VRDs Grecian Formula'd.

Edit: Rigma - I like that look! Black backdrop to the tubes.

Black Hammertone is always an option. I have never has anyone ever ask for custom color transformer covers. I have all the different hammertone paints for what ever someone wants. I also can do gloss back or what ever the customer fancies for the transformer end bells within reason. My main question is about the top plate finish. Paint or stainless is the main options but I'm open to other suggestions.

I have a complete custom job comming up on a pair of VRD's that is really going to surprice some folks.

The sky's is the limit on custom people can dream up whatever they want and of course they can afford. But I have to offer a standard package a a set affordable rate.

Craig

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Çraig - I like stainless plate over paint. Though if paint is used... not grey. IMHO

(I think Dean also wanted black transformers)?

Yup but in the end he even decided the standard grey hammertone was just fine. Here is his amps. The color of the end bells is really trivial and completely up to the customer... you name it and I'll spray it [;)]

post-7461-13819321222666_thumb.jpg

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