tigerwoodKhorns Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Which silver solder do you guys use? The WTB is about $50 per 1/2 lb and the Dayton is $30. Though it looks like you may get what you pay for. The WTB melts at 356 degrees and the Dayton melts at 423 degrees. I just want to know if the WTB is teh way to go? http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?webpage_id=3&SO=2&CATID=38&ObjectGroup_ID=361 Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frzninvt Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Wouldn't a higher silver content cause it to melt at a higher temp (suggesting that the Dayton has a higher silver content)? I don't either one would make any kind of audible difference, the lower temp one may flow better and be easier to work with. I bought some awhile ago from Parts Express but don't recall which one. I can check when I get home. I use it when I do a rewire job & crossover rebuild on my Heritage speakers but they are all finished now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 I have a brand new one pound spool of 2% silver solder. Still finishing up the other spool, and it has taken me ten years to do it. Even with the cheap temp controlled iron I have, it flows quite easily. I have it packed in a box at the moment, but I think it is Kester. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nat Denkin Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 The difference in melting points may be affected by the amount of lead in the solder. WBT sells a lead-free 4% silver solder that melts at the same temperature as the Dayton solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 I love WBT, but when I have a little exta money I go for the Cardas. https://www.hndme.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=26&idproduct=515 The Dayton stuff is awful to work with unless you're using a phaser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 What, no recommendations for "Magic Solder"? I'm sure its just an oversight! Here is a link for a "Magic Soldering" solution. I wouldn't mess with those 'regular' non-magical solder solutions! http://www.perbrucorp.net/soldering-specialities.html [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted February 8, 2008 Author Share Posted February 8, 2008 I love WBT, but when I have a little exta money I go for the Cardas. https://www.hndme.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=26&idproduct=515 The Dayton stuff is awful to work with unless you're using a phaser. Thansk Dean, this is the info that I need. I'l lspend a few extra bucks to make it easier to work with. The Cardas is actually less expensive than the WTB. WTB is $50 for 1/2 lb, the Cardas is $70 for a full lb. I need to replace a blown tweeter in my friend's B&W Matrix 801 (luckily the part is only $40 - the current diamond one is $1200). I called their engineers and they told me that they just use "plain old solder." Are we all just being too anal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blvdre Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 I just use the old rosin core lead and tin, clean up the flux afterwards with a bit of alcohol. I can't imagine silver would hurt though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
consistent Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 Cardas...flow and strength Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOSValves Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Are we all just being too anal? Absolutely especially Dean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seti Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 I have been "trying" to solder lately and just haven't quite got the knack for it yet. Going to search youtube for how to videos and try again. Doesn't matter what solder I use yet. I just picked some up from rat shack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 "Thanks Dean, this is the info that I need. I'll spend a few extra bucks to make it easier to work with. The Cardas is actually less expensive than the WTB. WTB is $50 for 1/2 lb, the Cardas is $70 for a full lb." Yeah, but you got to spend $20 more to get the Cardas -- so it costs more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 Folks might want to consider picking up a few pounds of lead based solder now that RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Materials) specs have been adopted ridding lead from all solder ... and before the lead police effectively take it off the market like they did with old freon supplies., Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blvdre Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 Folks might want to consider picking up a few pounds of lead based solder now that RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Materials) specs have been adopted ridding lead from all solder ... and before the lead police effectively take it off the market like they did with old freon supplies., Good to know (I already have more than I know what to do with...). Have the RoHS specs had any effect on rosin based fluxes? I'm not a fan of any "no clean" fluxes, they just don't clean the area as well as the old rosin. My feeling was that industry went to the no clean because it's easier to clean, post wave machine (yes, you still have to clean "no clean" flux), and that it's more electrically inert, but toxicity may have also played a role. I love my rosin core, and it's easy enough to clean with a brush and alcohol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4tay Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 I still have most of a roll of cardas quad eutectic (silver) solder that I use. I do not know if this is really overkill, since I have no experimented with various types (like radio shack) to see if a few grams of solder at one location makes an audible difference. The stuff seems to work fine for me so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 Old fashioned 60/40 tin/lead solder works just fine if you know how to solder. 63/37 is even easier to get good results with because it is eutectic. The lead free solder should be fine, too, although equipment manufacturers have had problems during the switch over. The silver or copper added in some electronic solder won't make a difference in what you hear. If you hear a difference in a well made joint it is in your head. FWIW it is a misnomer to refer to any of the solders we use in electronics as silver solder. Some have a small percentage of silver. But true silver solder is not practical for most electronic work. It melts at much higher temperatures than we need for electronics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 I like the nice clean joint made with the silver solder I use. Even if it is only 2%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4tay Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 Makes sense, because it's definately not a high content of silver. Bob Crites basically stated the same thing about using standard solder. I won't elaborate, but I share his opinions of all things "audiophile." Once this roll is used up, I have two rolls of electronics solder with silver content. I forgot for a moment that I am dealing with sensible and experianced people here. That's a big change for me. I appreciate the acumen here---it has resulted in some nice improvements in my speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 FWIW there is nothing wrong with having a litle silver in your solder other than its effect on your wallet considering it is going for over $18 an ounce currently. The manufacturer puts it there to modify one or more metallurgical properties of the solder. One reason Kester cites is to prevent migration of silver from silver or silver plated leads into the solder resulting in weak or brittle connections. Silver is also used where the joint has to withstand higher operating temperatures and where a stronger joint is required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhing Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 I've tried the WBT and the Cardas, and the Cardas QES is stronger mechanically on connectors than the WBT. It also seems to have a rosin that flows more readily than the rosin in the WBT. Sonically, they are both good and I prefer it over the standard Kester 60/40 solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.