LarryC

Thanks, Khorn -- great picture! It explains a lot! I'll send the updated thread to the restorer. I had no idea how they did that. Larry

An remember, we love pictures!

Hi Gil, Please don't ship anything to me, prized as much as it is. I have way top much stuff now. Thanks for asking! Larry

Never fear, John. Did you ever get a stereo pair of whatever you were looking for, was it a Shorthorn? Larry

That's still gotta be one terrific-sounding speaker with a phenomenal midrange! SAHF and a 15WK

I thought the LS II used the more more highly evolved AL-4/5 X-over? I suspect that's quite a different sound from earlier X-overs.

Sorry to be late with this -- doing the tube mod on my M-D tuner didn't increase the range or sensitivity as far as I could tell, but it made the sound less hard, a little more "tubey," which is a good thing IMO, and ever so slightly less veiled and closer to the real thing. I had a Yamaha tuner for many years, which really pulled in stations great, but was flat and hard in sound. That's why I went to M-D [edited:] which had much more bloom and dimensionality.

Thanks KornuK -- Really helpful! NOW: where are the "few more screws to separate the bottom panels of the top hat"? I think that's what I've bin looking for, because a previous restorer apparently soaked the top hat in mineral spirits, and the new one may want to separate those bottom panels. A couple other forum members in this thread apparently have done thet. I and the new restorer may need to know how to do it. Larry

I believe that just fastens the top hat of the B-style as a complete unit to the bass bin. My interpretation of what others have said is that the top hat of the B-style like mine is made up of 3 or 4 veneered slabs or layers, tightly bolted and/or screwed together, to form the in- and-out steps of the top hat as a tight unit as seen from the front, sides, and rear. The C-style looks much simpler, without the in-and-out steps. Gary's is a C-style, and I suspect dtr20's is, too. Those tops look like they are not detachable, hence the "ton of screws."

That's nice, but it ain't close to a 255A. Where are the EL-34s? You may be generalizing from a single, possibly atypical, example

Thanks, Don and everyone. My refinisher will probably be able to figure it out, with the comments made so far. Larry

Hi -- can anyone help me on this -- I have an expert restorer/refinisher who is willing to refinish my 1962 mahogany lacquer B-style K-horns. These are the ones I almost ruined by applying Murphy's Wood Soap a few years ago. He's going to do a lot of cleaning and sanding, and I understand that this is best done on the tops by disassembling the top hats. Can anyone send me a diagram of how they come apart? Any special tips on how to do it and pitfalls to avoid? THANKS! LarryC

None of the pics that come up by Googling Langevin amps looks at all like the 255, including the physical or tube layout and selection (no El-34's for example). I know nichts about such things, but simple rebranding looks to be out of the question.

I believe they are the Model 245 preamp and 255 35-watt (or so) mono amplifiers. Maybe the Model 248 stereo pre -- it was made up of a pair of 245 mono pre's and a central control unit and volume control. Wow, that's ancient stuff! I had a mono 255, and it sounded great on a Shorthorn!.

Remarkable! the multiple pieces of the top hat aren't glued?!? So, not even the collar is glued, only bolted or screwed? I must say, that's the way it looks. So -- how much additional work time is involved in separating into the various pieces? How many pieces are there per side --4, 5, 6, or 7? Would it save any time to glue them together, or does it SAVE time to take the top hats all apart? This is really helpful, but could someone PM me who willing to walk me and maybe the restoration specialist through the process. You can PM me you phone no., and I'll do the same. Thanks! Larry

Rick, what all has to come apart? Home plate off, of course, but do you have to remove the collar? Side panels off? It's almost like where do you stop? These restorers are good, but they've probably never seen anything like this! Thanks! - Larry

I'm wrestling with that myself. A couple of woodworkers I've talked to speak of "refinishing," which seems to involve light sanding. Same thing?

If the Oppo 93 does that we;ll, then the newer model model 203 should exceed even that. This is a brand and model that gets raves even from dealerships that don't sell it. The forthcoming model 205, due out in a couple of months but costing over $1,000, is supposed to be a large step up from there.

What's the badging (brand, model) on the back of the woofers? The orange surround looks Klipsch-ish, maybe like the SP12B from the "K-Ortho-12" driver/crossover combo.

Bought all of mine used, the first one a single Model T around 1960. The current K-horns around 1982 as the third owner. Plenty of upgrades, however.

Don't rush it, save the parts.

THANKS! You'll need my new address, in Silver Spring, MD. Let me know when to send it, - Larry

Hi Travis, It was (and still is) an A77, FWIW. If you ever get a chance to duplicate it onto a 7.5 tape, I'd be glad to repay you. That deck probably should be refurbished! Brad's pesky auto-correct went into overdrive.

I dropped by the Klipsch factory one Sunday back in the 1950's, and Paul Klipsch himself drove out to show me around. He showed me his then-newest way to make those mid horns -- he had a mold, and a vacuum pump to draw the resin or whatever it was into the mold to form and shape the horn. He said it had greatly speeded up the process. I suppose he did half a horn at a time, the way metal K-400's looked like they were made later on.

Too bad, but when I heard them, they needed really good amps to sound as exceptional as they were on the long-gone Aragon stuff. With other electronics, maybe not that great.