Deang

Nope.

@TonyTrex57 Hi Tony, what kind of help are looking for?

@ronajon The first picture is a 2uF measured using 1kHz. The second picture is the same can measured at 100kHz. This particular can is also sweating, with a light film on the outside that you can feel and smell. A new 2uF Tecate measures .42 - .45 It’s just my opinion, but I think this part is nearing the end of its life cycle. Some are fine for use while others are not. While you don’t have to replace them, the network will be back in spec, and the speakers will sound better if you do. I don’t sell capacitor kits. Please contact JEM if this is something that interests you.

@ronajon I use 1kHz for the smaller values and 120Hz anything above 4uF. The spec sheet for the capacitors Klipsch uses states 1kHz for their DF spec.

Using the chart, one can see why measuring at 100kHz doesn’t make much sense for capacitors used in loudspeaker networks.

Another meter that uses 100kHz. This is from the manual that came with my B&K 880. Also a chart. Notice how the ESR decreases with frequency - regardless of the dielectric material.

That capacitor is probably bad. If you measured using 120Hz or 1KHz, that reading would be 3-5 times higher.

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@Thaddeus Smith

They look better than ‘7’. Any chips, scratches, or water stains? Thanks, Dean

Lol. I’m glad you aren’t building networks for a living.

Would love to see someone do a build like mine in an hour, I would hire them.

It should make sense that if you make physical changes to the loudspeaker you will hear changes to the loudspeaker. No surprise there. The problem is that without measurements, you have no idea what is going on. You have nothing to tell you why you are hearing what you are hearing. Something can curve terrible and a person will tell you how great it sounds.

I guess you’re being facetious.

Too bright. Wrong capacitors and autoformers for the design.

lol. I spent $5K to bring back the T2A, T4A, the graded 5mH ferrite bobbin, the 2.5mH, 4.0mH, and all the small air cores - all in wax. How REAL do you want it? Considering how long it takes to wire and solder the things, $650.00 a pair shipped is a good deal. Labor is $150.00 per board. The rest is parts.

Solid advice from the others. Is there an issue? https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en-us/articles/360036957831-Heritage-Crossover-Repairs

Nice amps. I doubt it has anything to do with that. @Bacek gives solid advice. One thing to consider with anything used is being generally in the dark regarding their history. I always wondered if K-77’s sound a little rough due to years of being driven hard. I stock the parts to update the AK-2.

Linking this ad to my Facebook business page.

There are a couple on Etsy that make some nice looking badges.

Areovox can (Mylar film) compared to new Klipsch OEM Mylar and Sonicap. Chasing lowest ESR possible is also an incorrect approach for vintage rebuilds, where the rule is “replace part with like part”.

Read where? That would only apply to electrolytics exposed to high voltages and/or heat. They can last a surprisingly long time in a loudspeaker network. Film types can last 50 years or more, which is how old the cans are. They may not be as good as new, but nothing to panic over unless they are leaking or you notice a problem - usually low tweeter output. Still, I encourage people to replace them instead of waiting for them to leak or fail. 20 years for film capacitor death is bs.

I understand the appeal of mods and tinkering. It is hit or miss though. A mod loved by some is disappointing to others. What I don’t understand is how someone can completely change the sound of the loudspeaker and insist “it’s still Klipsch”. Not promoting modifications on the company message board is a small ask by Roy and Klipsch.

Klipsch Support doesn’t monitor the forum, and even if they did, there is no guarantee they would know. Roy only checks in once or twice a day and it is highly unlikely he reads every post. There are less and less of us around that even know what you’re asking about. In what section did you post your question? Is this it? If not, there are many other audio forums.

Part of the problem with his version of the thing is the cheap metal oxide resistors in the tweeter section. Nice fingernails across the chalkboard quality. @bsacco1 I can change them back to AA’s if you’re interested. Email me. dgwescott@gmail.com