PrestonTom

Is there edge banding on the cabinet? Take a photo and we can help.

Congratulations on the Cornwalls On the back will a sticker indicating the finish on the cabinet (eg OO or WL etc). The first letter is the wood (oak, walnut etc) and the second letter is the finish (Oil, lacquer etc). Have a look at that first. Good luck, -Tom

I wonder how much they actually sold for.

I definitely agree with the suggestion of bracing. The brace itself does not need to be massive, but make sure it is well attached.

Go ahead and advertise them. On Craigslist, most will not understand the worth of the upgrades. On this forum, folks may understand. The problem with modified cabinets is that you will never recoup your investment. I think Randy's estimate is optimistic. Try it and see. The market will ultimately determine their "worth". If they were mine, then I would hang on to them.

No, They both start to "beam" as you go up in frequency. Most horns from that era (for consumer use) will do that.

Let's be clear about something. Tractrix horns are not controlled dispersion horns, per se. Roy's "modified tractrix" horns, however, are controlled dispersion horns. Controlled dispersion (CD) means that the on-axis frequency response is similar to the off-axis frequency response. Is this important? Well, it is important in commercial audio (i.e., all seats in the auditorium get a comparable sound). In consumer audio .... well, a strong argument is made by Toole in his book (consistent with comments made by Roy also) that this is a key feature in speakers that are highly rated. In my own experience, the modified tractrix horns designed by Roy (eg, K-402 and K-510) sound very good.

Chris, I am confused (yes, it happens ....) The woofer, mid-range and tweeter are all in the "multiple entry horn" aren't they. It is only the dual sub-woofer that is direct radiating (and crossed below 45 Hz). Wouldn't this give some degree of dispersion control down to the nominal crossover cutoff of 45 Hz? Until we see the measures, I can only conjecture. However if it is in that ballpark, it could be a mind-blower. If one were interested in the DIY building of big & heavy cabinets, choosing the drivers is probably the least problematic. It seems the headaches would be centered around 1) placement of the "slots" on the horn and 2) the back and forth of getting the crossover filters and general EQing of the system correct. Not that all the other steps are not important, but those two could chew up a good deal time and sawdust.

It looks like a new item. https://tomdanley.com/hyperion/ Specifications are incomplete and without pricing information. Since it appears to include amplification and DSP, I suspect it is not inexpensive. My guess would be that it could be quite expensive, given some of the company's other offerings. Two comments. This guy has a very good track record and the product should be taken seriously (in the past he has done some very innovative things). However, the specs shown almost look too good to be true, although we do not yet have all the information. In either case it is thought provoking. Although it is a not a Klipsch product, some of the DIY crowd may get some inspiration. Good luck, -Tom

Seriously, I have never heard anything better than my Jubilees. At this point, any modifications are mostly fluff or icing on the cake.

I finished my second Pfizer dose yesterday. The usual sore arm (not a big deal) which was slightly worse after dose number two. Within about 6 hours after the 2nd dose I started feeling tired and climbed in bed with a good book. Next day, I am at about 90%. It really was not a big deal (and I am old and like to complain). It is quite amazing that they were able to roll out a very effective vaccine so quickly. . Good luck and I encourage everyone to take this disease seriously, -Tom

Well, Randy as I clearly stated in the first post ......... "Let me warn you that if you insist that speaker cabinets must look like speaker cabinets or that black grill cloth is mandatory you are not going to like this thread. If so, then move on or the subsequent photos will only irritate you and create bad feelings. There is no need for that. The strategy is to think of the all the possible cosmetics for the Jubilee as falling along a continuum with traditional speaker cabinetry being at one end and the other end being more akin to disguising or hiding these big beasts behind something like a Japanese room divider or shoji screen. I am toward this end of the continuum. You have already been warned that this approach is not for everyone and you may get irritated with what follows." ....... and it looks like you got irritated Good Luck, -Tom

Of course you would need to make sure the design had a structure that did not directly block the tweeter horn and that the material was acoustically benign etc. Think about it, a Shoji screen could be adapted and disguise our need for big speakers in the living room. This was the notion that got me started, but I integrated it into the cabinet itself .... sort of. Of course in a man cave the Jubilees should be displayed in all their industrial-like grandeur. Alas, not all of us have dedicated listening rooms.

Or this .....

This is what got me thinking originally ......

Okay, okay, okay I have taken some moe photos and I am now putting a narrative together "on how to disguise your Jubilees and save your marriage" - or something like that. I will also include some tweaks that I, and others, have figured out on how to get a better frequency and polar response. I want to get this done while my Jubilees are still around. I have promised to do this for a number of folks and I need to stick to my word. -Tom

I get my 2nd Pfizer shot on Wed. Scheduling was not as bad as "they" claim. BTW, Ceptorman - I would not advertise that. Folks are very sensitive about how the system works.

My understanding is that the mumps were applied to give a better control of the dispersion down to lower frequencies (on-axis and off-axis freq response would be more similar). Were you able to make any before and after measures? I will say those finishes are quite spectacular. I will guess is that it much harder than it looks (not that it even comes close to looking easy).

I won't bother with the notion of hundreds of hours, but I can tell you what I was advised when I built my "Jubilee bass bins". Before the woofer (K-31) is installed in the cabinet, run a 20Hz tone for 20 minutes (amplitude of 10 volts RMS). It was resting on its magnet and they did dance around a bit. Beware, this is not a general recommendation for "any old woofer". Certainly it is NOT a recommendation for a midrange or tweeter ! What the break in for your woofer might be --- I won't even guess since I do not know the specific resonance or Xmax etc. Do keep in mind that if the Xmax is reached or passed, then bad things can happen. Good luck, -Tom

I did something comparable. In my case I glued some carpet underlayment (felt not foam rubber) to the base. I did not want to use staples since they might scratch the floor. It slides nicely on hardwood and tile floors. I agree also that playing with the position and toe-in is very worthwhile.

I used to have a pair of Klipschorns about that vintage. I thought they sounded great. Is there something you don't like about them? I will say that there is something about a horn-loaded bass that really is special. I doubt the Forte will be able to match that.

The folks that make miniDSP (google search) will have usb microphone. It is designed to work conveniently with REW software (free). They also include a correction file for response anomalies. The Parts Express mics are tricky since they have changed vendors over the years (quality may not be consistent)

This thread is about acknowledging Bob. Why are guys going so far off topic. Is this appropriate?

I may have mis-remembered Yes, the KLF30 woofer and Jubilee woofer are both K-31 and will have similar specs

One trick that I have used is to make the cabinet about 10% larger and the port about 10% longer than "necessary". Stuff the cabinet and then run impedance sweeps (google on how to do this). Then start decreasing the length of the port tube until the impedance plot shows that you have "reached" the desired port tuning. It is best to run these sweeps with the cabinet in the approximate position that you will use it (i.e., near a wall or near a corner, etc). The beauty of this is that it takes some of the guess work about internal volume and compensation for drivers, bracing etc. good luck, -Tom