Malcolm

If it is just a matter of regluing the spider, it should be much less expensive that replacing the T-1000. There isn't much that needs to be done, it just needs to be done right. A pair of T-1000s on eBay went for $140 plus shipping recently. Another option might be keeping an eye for a K-1015-KV on eBay. Klipsch might just have one in stock in spares. You might want to check with Klipsch tech support.

Black T35s are black enamel.

Although it is probably possible for you to reglue the cone to the spider, I think it would be better to send it out to a professional speaker repair shop. The spider and the surround basically control the orientation of the voicecoil in the gap. You have to get it right.

I don't think there are any screws except those that hold the back panel, woofer, squawker horn, tweeter, and crossover in place. The cabinet is nailed and glued. You'll have to cut out the panel, then fabricate and fit a new panel, then match the finish. It might be faster, easier and better to build a new cabinet.

I had a guy hit me up for money once in a parking lot with a story about running out of gas on the freeway, needing money to for enough gas to get home about 100 miles away. I told him if he would wait 5 minutes while I took care of some business, I would get him filled up and on his way home. Guy disappeared before I got back. Two weeks later, the same guy hit me up in the same parking lot with a similar same story. There are people for which this is a business. That said, there are indeed unfortunate beings out there needing a helping hand. And it is a good thing to help them out when you can.

Nothing special. Just marketing hype. Now, if you could find a pair with the labels signed by PWK you might have something...

The main reason you don't see fancy veneers is demand. Most people want something that matches the rest of their decor. Consider how Klipsch's offerings have changed over the years. The second reason you don't see things like burl is cost. Most people would are not willing to pay the difference in cost from plain veneer. Burl typically comes in small, odd shaped pieces that have to be matched, trimmed to size, filled, and taped up into whatever size sheet is desired before application. There is a lot of labor involved. Also, burl veneer can be many times the cost of plain veneer to start with. .

Atlas PD5V Data Sheet What do you want to know about the K77?

Good timbre matching is essential for the front speakers. Most of the sound, maybe 70% comes from the center. Most of the rest comes from the left and right front speakers. And sounds frequently pan from side to side on the front speakers. A less than perfect timbre match here is very noticeable. IMHO the timbre matching of the other speakers should be as good as possible. Whether you will notice a less than optimal match will depend on your ears. I have Heresys all around. They currently all have the same K-77 tweeter and and K-55-V squawker driver. At one time the rears were Heresys, but with K-53-K squawker drivers. The difference in timbre was noticeable enough to me to force me to replace them with Heresys with K-55-Vs.

eBay owns PayPal now.

Best match is going to be another 1984, or maybe 1983, Heresy (barrier strips) because the squawker driver is different that earlier Heresys and the tweeter is different that the Heresy IIs (terminals in round or square recessed cup). Any Heresy with a K-53-K or K-52-H squawker driver will be a sonic match.

Heresy II

Back in the tube days, speakers were, in general, more efficient than they are today, whether they incorporated horns or not. They had to be because the typical tube amps weren't capable of putting out a lot of power. Solid state amps made it pratical to build higher power amps cheaply. So speakers did not need to be as efficient to produce the same sound levels. Sensitivity is pretty much determined by the mass of the driven elements in the speaker and the strength of the magnetic field. A stronger magnetic field means a bigger, more expensive magnet. So, a manufacturer is not going to produce a high sensitivity speaker unless there is a reason for it. Manufacturers that use horn loaded squawkers and tweeters will typcally use more efficient woofers than their competitors to keep up as well as possible witht the sensitivities of the squawkers and tweeters. Even then, they may have to pad the input levels to the squawkers and tweeters to maintain consistent levels across the frequency range, like in the Heresy.

Constantines VanDykes MacBeath eBay is good sometimes because you can see the grain of the batch you are getting and can usually save some money. But you never know what you will find from day to day.

K-53-K is indeed a bolt-on flange mount. The K-52-H is the same thing with a screw mount.

I don't know if a law suit is appropriate in this case. But sometimes hearing loss can occur because of circumstances beyond the user's control. When I was in college, I met a guy who had just had surgery to restore his hearing. Seems he fell asleep listening to music with headphones and his idiot roomie cranked up the volume on him. The fact that Apple makes something that is capable of producing volume levels that are known to cause permanent hearing loss is just asking for trouble.

To get the best timbre match, you want the same tweeter and squawker in the center as the mains, and the same crossover frequencies. Failing that, you want to be as similar as possible. IMHO a Heresy II would be a better match than a Heresy. FWIW you can always use a phantom center. It doesn't always work well, but in some cases it is hard to tell the difference between a phantom center and a real one. The center channel was introduced in theaters to tie the dialog to the center of the screen. On a big screen with just left and right channel speakers, the dialog didn't always seem to stay where it was supposed to. On a smaller screen at home, this is much less of a problem.

IMHO the weakest part of your system is the center. Is is not a good match for your Fortes. Not only that, but 70% to 80% of the sound is going to come from it most of the time. FWIW I had a KV3 for a while between two Heresys. The best thing I ever did was replace it with a Heresy. The sound is much better. And now sound pans seamlessly from left to center to right.

Well, nowadays, in a speaker crossover, you typically use an electrolytic only because the cost of size of another type will be too big.

Wonder what the patent is on. This approach has been around for 50 years or so.

I don't know about the particular DVD you have. But it is certainly possible to get a bad DVD. Things go can wrong during the manufacturing process. Sometimes the problems affect just one or a few copies. Sometimes the problems can affect a large number of copies. The worst problem I ever saw on digital media was a CD that had about half the program missing.

I than a Sony KV1212 from the early 70s that is still going strong. It is in the garage now. I did go through and replace all the electrolytic capacitors at one point because the picture wasn't as nice as I liked, though. Fixed it right up. Lamp life of rear projection DLP and LCD sets is what has kept me from buying one. Maybe the ones lit with diodes that are just showing up on the market will be the answer.

Yes, Heresys of the 60s used EV SP12B woofers. At some point in the late 60s or early 70s they changed to CTS woofers. The tweeters from the 60s up through the end of production were EV manufactured T35As, first with alnico magnets, then with mud magnets. The K55V squawker driver was not from EV. It was an Atlas PD5V. It was used from the 60s until the last few years of production when Klipsch changed first to a Heppner manufactured driver (K53H), and then to a Klipsch manufactured version of the Heppner driver (K53K). Note that the very earliest Heresys from the 50s are a different beast and may have EV woofers or woofers from different manufacturers, and University squawkers and tweeters. FWIW what you see in my avatar at the left is a mid 60s Heresy in theater black with an EV woofer (notice the whizzer).

I suspect either it will require only the cleaning of connectors to "repair" you motherboard, or it will require replacement of the motherboard (assuming a replacement is available). Any real repair is likely going to require the ability to remove and replace surface mount components (assuming the components are available), something that most "repair" facilities do not have.

No, a tool for RG6QS does not have to look very different from on for RG6. It just has a slightly different die size. You have to use the appropriate tool and connectors with each type of cable.