Andy W

Check out the new R-41PM. Add a R-10SW. That's what I'm running in my desktop system.

"Getting stuck in firmware update mode" is an indication that you need to try the other firmware file for the other bootloader.

Correct. Saying "RMS power" or "Watts RMS" is a misnomer -- there is no such thing as a "Watt RMS", but people have using it for so long that it have entered into the vernacular. And the typical RMS calculation (peak voltage of the sine wave divided by the square root of two) is only true for sine waves. For pure square waves the RMS voltage is the peak voltage.

Thinking about selling my KI-362s. I'm just wanting something smaller (specifically KPT-396, or build myself). I know that's only 4" shorter, but that would make all the difference. What might they be worth (for the pair)? I can't really find anything online to compare pricing. Cosmetics are a little rough, but no driver problems, in fact the tweeters have new diaphragms.

No, you don't need the high pass filter on the sub for recorded music. Kick drums are mostly 50-60HZ, with some bass drums and big toms getting onto the 30's. The lowest note on a piano is 27.5Hz, however even on an 11 foot grand, you're hearing mostly harmonics and sympathetic resonances on other strings. The low E on a bass guitar is at ~41Hz, and the B on a 5 string bass is ~31Hz, or a half step lower at ~29Hz for the contrabassoon. Synth drums, synth bass, subharmonic generators in some popular music, and movie soundtracks aside, there's not much "down there" that you will be wasting power on. Organ music? Pro musicians roll of below 30 or 40 or so because there are things like people walking on stage or things bumping around that can overload the system, especially with the amounts of gain they run in the LF for live music. This is already done for you on recorded tracks. There's no reason not to roll stuff off sharply in the LF for vocal or other instrument mics in the studio. Everything down there is junk or hum or HVAC.

I just talked to the engineer on the project... Keep the power switch in the off position, that will ensure that any flashing of the WiFi LED (the one on the top of the unit) will be unmistakable as a successful update. He also recommended trying another flash drive and/or reformatting the flash drive (FAT32) and reloading the file onto the flash drive. Every issue he has seen so far was related to the flash drive and not the unit itself.

Jut to be clear, are you planning to buy another The Three? If yes, you won't need a Gate or PowerGate in that case. A second The Three has everything it needs built-in to be part of the Klipsch Stream network in your home. The Gate is used if you already have an audio system (receiver/amp and speakers) or a powered system (like the R-15PM) and you want to add it to your Klipsch Stream (PlayFi) network. The PowerGate is used when you have a pair of passive speakers that need an amplifier (like the RP-150M) and you want to them to your Klipsch Stream network. The PowerGate provides several other audio inputs to that you can create a complete stand-alone two channel audio system with speakers of your choice and still be part of the overall Klipsch Stream network. Once you have multiple Klipsch Stream systems, you can connect them together in "zones" so you can have the audio throughout the home, with either streaming or non-streaming sources. You can use the "Line In" feature so that if you have a non-streaming sources in one room (i.e. a CD player or turntable connected to a PowerGate or The Three system) that audio can be transmitted over WiFi to other Klipsch Stream speakers. Other streaming features will be coming in the months ahead.

Regarding WiFi setup, hold the button 4 seconds for WPS setup (first beep and quick double flashes on the setup LED) or 10 seconds for manual setup (second beep, single quick flashes).

The text in the firmware update sheet is a bit vague... the WiFi LED, means the WiFi setup LED on the back of the unit. The WiFi LED on the top only lights up when PlayFi is the source. So WiFi Status on the back and WiFi Source (PlayFi) is on the top with all the other source LEDs. http://assets.klipsch.com/product-manuals/The-Three-Manual-v2.pdf Also, you can't select PlayFi as the source using the source dial, it is selected when you choose the speaker from the Klipsch Stream App. PLayFi's rules, not ours.

Regarding the transformer... Yes, Peak voltage from the transformer will be the output voltage times 2^0.5 (i.e. 1.414...) You will want to take into account that the AC mains is +/- 10% and the transformer will usually be rated at 115VAC or 120VAC, so do the calulations based on 132VAC = 187V peak, or the output winding voltage rating times 1.414 times 1.1 to see what peak voltage you will get. Also, the voltage rating is at full transformer load, so with no load the voltage will be a little higher, so fudge on the low side. You may want to ask the manufacturer what the "no load" output voltage is, or find it in the spec sheet. The bigger the core vs output power, the less this number is affected. If the part you are using has an ABSOLUTE MAX rating of 53VDC, then is probably based on a 60V process (semiconductor speak), and the transformer voltage will need to be sized based on "high line" (AC voltage +10%) and "no load" conditions. 10% less than 50V is 45V. Shoot for that (about a 32V secondary winding), and if the transformer core is small, go lower. Also, since you are close to 50VDC, step up to 63VDC rated capacitors.

If he has a decent table saw, he will be fine... as long as he's a competent carpenter. I'm not, and I can make a speaker box. Glue fills any slight problems.

The RSB-14 does not have Apple AirPlay. Download the Klipsch Stream App and play your music from there. It uses DTS Play-Fi. Does the RTS-14 show up in the speaker list in the Klipsch Stream app? Sometimes I get that message if you don't wait a second between selecting the music source and the song.

Yes, that will be a 4 Ohm rating.

Press and hold the BT button on the remote (or on the rear panel). See page 11 of the manual. http://assets.klipsch.com/product-manuals/R-15PM-Manual-v07WEB.pdf

Yes. Do it.

Yes, it matters. Usually appliances that have polarized cords have protection built in to the electronics, electrical insulation, or grounding that depends on the polarity of the AC to properly protect the user from electric shock.

If you are going to be moving it around, I recommend you stay with the KMC3. The R-15PM plays louder for sure. Is there more bass? I'm sure there is, dB for dB, but there is also more of everything else. The sound of the R-15PM is the sound of the R-15M - the drivers and crossover network are identical. The amp is "flat" and the port tuning did not change.

The iFi might have been perfect for you. How much power? What would you pay? Did you see the mini retro 2.1 concept that was shown at CES? I keep pitching (again, I'm not a salesman) this type of system and it keeps getting shot down. If we offered an electronics only solution, and you could pick the sats and sub, would you do that? How much would that be worth? http://www.klipsch.com/blog/klipsch-at-ces-2016-day-3/ Take a look at the "Power Gate" concept.

Buy them and we'll make more.

Well since the topic came back up, and since someone had mentioned powering the R-14M bookshelves for $500, and since I wasn't able to say anything... (we were actually working at the time on powering the R-15M)... We now have announced and now the R-15PM "powered monitor" speakers are available! Pair them with your favorite Klipsch sub (The R-10SW is cost effective and matches very nicely!) for a heretofore unmatched PC audio experience. http://www.klipsch.com/products/r-15pm-powered-monitors Switchable Line/Phono input optimized for moving magnet phono cartridges 3.5mm Aux input Optical input for PCM stereo (hi-res compatible) USB Audio capable for computer monitor systems - abolish the internal motherboard DAC Bluetooth wireless connectivity

Try turning up the volume on the source if possible, it might be below the threshhold... and no, there is no way to turn off the auto-standby, it's required by law in Europe.

Remembering back to the news that night and seeing Dion's picture on the news... and then in the days just after I remeber hearing the news report that the homeowner had boarded the cat... and in utter dismay in that instant I knew it was intentional - and said so right then to my wife - who boards a cat if they are going out for the weekend? Even in Ft. Wayne they had a very hard time seating a jury. "All" of the potential jurors questioned said they knew about the case and already considered the defendant(s) guilty.

Yes, I'm glad there an option with Dolby Atmos. Positioning is important for those wanting to use in-ceiling speakers, and the right amount of toe-in on those using reflecting speakers. I have heard it both ways (in-ceiling and reflecting). For me the in-ceiling speakers gave slightly more pinpoint imaging, but it's not drastic enough that you lose anything by using the refective approach.

Bare ceiling. In fact we had to remove the treatment from our theater room.

Here is some perspective... the v2.400 hit the market at $299 in 1999 and was followed up with the PM2.1 at $199 in 2000. The iFi was launched at $399 and if we had to build that system today (it was 2005, 10 years ago) I bet it would be in the neighborhood of $800. So to give feedback to some of the repsonses... TwoCables... the PM2.1 now sells for $149 every day at Best Buy but distribution beyond that is limited. I will admit that the desing is long in the tooth, yet we continue to sell a lot of them and due to the fact that it hasn't changed (okay, only a little) we are still getting costs that we could never come close to with a redesign. So it's a hard sell for something new or different in the $150-$200 price range. Ironsave... The price range for a 2.1 system with similar "content" of say the R-10B soundbar (a really decent 8" sub plus 2-way sats with Bluetooth) is MSRP @ $599 and is on sale for about $100 less. So I would say that's about what your looking at price-wise for a level of performance that is a step above the current PM2.1. Performance might be close to the old iFi system, but would probably not be able to have as much amplifier power, but maybe 1/3 less best case? William and Ironsave... A pair of wood box speakers with a 2x50W amplifier for $500 along the lines of the R-14M or maybe even the R-15M is in the realm of possibility (without the sub though). I'm thinking that just having a single analog input woudn't cut it anymore with the variety of connectivity options people are using now. So as a followup... what connectivity would be desired? (I know what I would want, but it would probably be two different products.) Elaborating on the question... Do people want dedicated PC systems, or do they also want to hook them to TV's, gaming systems, handheld Bluetooth devices, or ???? What connection for the PC is wanted, analog, optical, coax, or USB? How many inputs would have to be there? Is wireless connectivity even a concern? Or would you rather just have the single analog input to keep the costs down as much as possible?