jason str
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Everything posted by jason str
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That chart is not correct at all, whoever posted that either did not know what they were doing or the build is off somewhere. Driver way out of spec. Open driver chamber. Huge air leaks. All the above. Have a read here for measurements ot visit the Bill Fitzmaurice forum for better information. By the way, 3 15s would far surpass 1 18" driver.
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Too much air turbulence. An aluminum port acting as the heatsink may work though.
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Just a heads up on the Minwax link provided, i would start with something finer than 120 grit on thin veneer. Yes by all means blotchy finish is a buzzkill, good prep work is everything.
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If the veneer is in real nice shape they may not even need sanding. If sanding is needed it would depend on the extent of the dent, scratch or mar in the wood veneer that needs attention, its thin so you cant get too agressive.
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Looks better.
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Measure the hole size (looks like 3/16) but measure it to be sure you get the right size. Your local hardware store, Menards, Home Depot, ETC should sell plastic hole plugs in various sizes.
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HUH..http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/products/subwoofers/tapped-horns/th-spud/ It says they go to 19hz. 60hz would be no better than a La Scala. La Scala rolls off near 100 Hz. Tapped horns get distorted near 60 Hz. Leaving a pitfall between 60 - 100 Hz to fill, best way to fill in this situation would to EQ the mains
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Danley spud would only play nice to 60 Hz or so requiring substantial EQ to the mains raising distortion levels, not a great upgrade choice in my opinion. If you're happy with your subs just find a place where they work nice and be done with it.
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Yes, power has been out due to storm and blazing lights with the TV just woke me out of a good sleep. Just repeat for multiples
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The best place for sub placement is never where you want it to be, i recommend doing a sub crawl to find the right place(s). Turn on one sub and find where in the room it works and sounds the best, place your sub there if at all possible. Repeat if using multiples.
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Bidding went up nearly enough to cover the frame & shipping charges. I will find a place for it to proudly hang in the workshop.
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Nice project, i spent much of my teen years stuffing BB mopar engines in Gremlin's, Pacers & Diplomat's for fun. Hope your Jeep lasts the test of time.
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Figured it would sell quick at the buy it now price as nice as it is.
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Had it up for sale to fund a birthday present for my youngest daughter, birthday is passed now so its not urgent to sell anymore. She wanted a new guitar but i got her something else.
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Yeah, it was really slow earlier when i was on. It might have finally crashed.
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There is a couple of 2270's on the local C-list if interested. http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/ele/4641300756.html http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/ele/4636138221.html
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Best grand i spent was on a good friend's bachelor party, probably spent a bit more than $1000 but its still talked about today and brings smiles to faces when the details of the party are brought up.
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Looks like Italian Cherry, very nice grain pattern.
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Happy Birthday to you both.
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The grumpy old men always made me laugh.
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It's either shorted or open. If it's shorted, your breaker would trip but you'd think there would be a noticeable flaw externally. Plug it into the wall, then the receiver. More than likely it's open if it's bad. I'd still think it's in the back of the receivers plug socket. As has been said here, maybe forget the cord and look at the connection on receiver. The changing of cord could have just revived unit at receiver connector. Easy enough to check, do a wiggle test on the plug. If the unit shuts off during the test with the new cable the problem could lie in the male terminal connection of the receiver.
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Most likely the female end of the cable has become loose/worn causing a poor connection. Glad the unit has come to life. Be sure to give your electrical engineers a swift kick in the nuts for not locating the problem during inspection.
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Fitzmaurice Table Tuba Question--TUBA NOW HOME!
jason str replied to Mr. Clark's topic in Subwoofers
Yes, I know. Same idea with the THT. But, the THT requires the access panel have a cover. The THT is not the same design, the THT driver enclosure and horn path needs to be airtight or loss of performance will result. I have my THT firing into a corner, placed exactly 18" away from the front wall. You can experiment with this too. I'm asking why it doesn't require an airtight driver enclosure. I really would like to know. Throat pressure, horn length & tuning. Bill may have a more detailed explanation but this is my understanding. If it doesn't, maybe I'll build 2 of these instead of another THT. No access panel cover would make building this a little easier. The access panel is not that big of deal, do not let it influence your decision. -
Fitzmaurice Table Tuba Question--TUBA NOW HOME!
jason str replied to Mr. Clark's topic in Subwoofers
The horn path needs to be airtight. Pressure in the horn path keeps the driver in check. Firing into a corner or wall is best but it works fine without also. The Table Tuba can be built with a airtight driver enclosure. -
Fitzmaurice Table Tuba Question--TUBA NOW HOME!
jason str replied to Mr. Clark's topic in Subwoofers
No cover required.
