jason str

My thoughts are just that and not crude, rude or dissing anybody. Just stating that not everybody has all day to spend posting on the forum and i feel that those who don't have lots of available free time should be left out but that is just my opinion I could care less and come here to help others more than anything else but from what i have been reading some are offended.

That's not gonna happen. Sorry. You are right though, nobody here is "elite" - including me. Everyone has an equal opportunity to see that No BS forum, it just so happens there is a minimum post limit to do so. Nobody is excluded from being able reaching that post count. Except people with a life who don't sit on here all day long or have OCD.

A single Table Tuba is a fine option as mentioned a few times earlier but if you do go that route build one at least 24" wide with double 8" drivers or double up your cabinets if using a single 8" design for best results.

Three would be best. Moe on the left, Larry on the right and Curly directly under in case the other two dummies slip up so your loudspeaker lands on something soft.

Your best option would be to run a THT or F-20 with your mains. Running 2 subs under your mains may seem like a good option but subs should be placed where they function and sound best and not where they fit the best, probably not what you want to hear but its the truth. The reason i choose those 2 subs is its best to cross over near 100 Hz where your mains no longer benefit from horn loading and will help keep distortion at its lowest. Tapped horns will not reach upper frequencies as well as a full horn loaded subwoofer will. You could do with a Table Tuba or two but the larger THT or F-20 will offer lower distortion and play lower notes.

Not sure what you mean by screw insert but if you need to fill in your holes just drill out the old holes to the next larger size and install dowel rods or maybe you can get away using the same size dowels if the holes are in decent shape and glue in with PL Premium if you have it but wood glue would be OK also. Toothpick bits and glue may also be used to fill in but will not be as strong as the dowel rod method. If you are having problems with spinning T nuts use epoxy between your motorboard & T nuts, carefull not to get any adhesive on the threads. Another trick is to get some small screws and screw your T nuts down around the edges from the back to be sure they don't fall out again.

I would not double up gaskets myself but rather rouder up a simple spacer to the size you need. A plate of leftover wood will work as well and can be made with a jigsaw if you're in a bind, just make sure to use a sharp pencil for your cutout and stick to the line.

Make sure the woofer surround does not bottom out on your motorboard, those Dayton woofers use a soft gasket that compresses when the screws are tightened. Chalk up the motorboard, install and tighten down your driver(s) and play a 20 Hz test track with some decent voltage but not too much as to bottom out the driver then remove to see if any chalk has rubbed onto the surround. If you have interference a spacer will be needed.

Best use would be for guitar/ bass guitar imo. X-max is just over 1 mm, maybe OK with low power applications in the K-horn but why replace the K33 in the first place ? Need more power handling ? What are you trying to achieve ?

Velcro pads come in many sizes and work well, also they will keep your rattle worries at bay with much less effort than magnets.

They can be built much thinner with an 8" driver. You may be on to something. Where can I get some guidance? If it is simple math (reduce volume by reducing depth) I can give it a shot! Minimum width of the Table Tuba is 12" but it works best 1-2" off the floor so factor that in to your total height as well. The Tuba home theater (THT) can be built using a 10" driver and a 12" width but is sealed and does not need to be placed off the floor so if height is a concern it may be a better option. Plus the THT plays lower notes, offers lower distortion and would be a better choice if the floor space is available. Feel free to PM me for details or ask at the BFM forum if the slim THT is an option for you.

Your driver can be used for a Table Tuba. The X-max is on the low side but if you don't run a big amp you will be good. Amp choice #1 ot #2 The Auto Tuba is made for the confined space of a car, your driver would be best used for the Table Tuba. Run that in a sealed or ported box and you won't get much out of it. A Table Tuba is a perfect way to keep nice tight bass that matches up very well with a pair of Heresy's

The markup is very high just like anything else, everyone along the chain has to make their profit. Factor in shipping and dealer profit and still you can usually get 20-25% off retail prices in most cases. I'm sure not all models have the same markup either, i could have picked up the top of the line palladium speakers right down the street just a few years ago at 40% off retail pricing but was not in the market, i just wanted to hear them to see what they were like.

Lucky it lasted that long, probably some 5 year old working 20 hour days constructed the thing. Tie it back up with some good fishing line and hope for the best.

Once the woofers break in it will be even better. They look kinda tiny next to the KLF's.

Somehow i missed this thread after being quoted on my comment a few times. I just gave my opinion on what i heard at the time and not what it could sound like with some modifications.

Good deal, looks good. Not much sticks to that polyester material.

The top and sides should be OK, where i would add braces would be over the woofer and to the side of the woofer. Connect the motorboard with the rear panel in those two places should make a big difference. If you want to add some damping material to the rest of the cabinet interior would not hurt either. Acoust-x Just roll on or brush it on.

I liked the amp as well, good sounding unit. It should sell quickly.

You may destroy your new grille trying to remove the badge.

Can't wait to see the finished product.

The thing that matters is that you are happy. If there was a one size fits all speaker type the world would be a boring place.

Makes you want to run out and buy some new headphones & reference series speakers.

Yamaha has sold. Subwoofers are still available.

Looks like a nice kit you have there. Screws don't hold worth a dam in pressboard, it would probably be OK if you drive them in once and leave them but if you take the driver in an out they will end up stripped holes but that can be fixed as well with wood glue & toothpicks. Its your choice. If you go the T nut route use a little epoxy to hold them in the panel but careful not to muck up the threads. Want something different ? Paint them satin black and find a local artist airbrush a panel to mimik a safe.