jason str

More options for crossover, delay and smoothing out response issues common in most rooms. If you have the means its really the way to go.

Unless you have a super tight budget i recommend you spring for an amplifier with DSP.

Scroll down for a basic design, same should be done on the inside port shelf. Wood works just as good as the PVC illustrated in the link above.

The mouth will be in the front firing towards the floor, just follow the front firing option towards the back of the plans or follow the end firing directions and aim the mouth upwards. If the budget is tight look at this driver. <Here> Its perfect for the slim design and saves you some cash. Try to purchase an amp with DSP options such as <this> for best results out of those horns. No need for big power in these designs, they are super efficient. If you have any more questions or need help along the way i will be back after the new years parties are over.

A front firing THTLP will fit right where the current sub is, the 15" width will free up some floor space.

Could just be faded from the sun. # 19 is Black # 20 is Brown Tags on the back will show the code, keep in mind DuraCrest fabrics is still in business so it could have been replaced at one time or another.

Half space measurements are the easiest to perform, why would you not use them and if they were not used it should be noted as such. >link<

Half space measurement is the industry standard unless things changed while i slept last night.

Rattles can be difficult to find with the unit right in front of you, diagnosing this will be just a guess at best. Its a coin toss and may need hard to find parts once diagnosed.

I run class A on far more sensitive speakers with great results.

Merry Christmas everyone.

The fuse should be right under where the power cable plugs in. If the fuse is still good its likely the amplifier went out.

I agree.

All good Claude, no worries.

I was not referring to any design, just your general statement about ports.

Luxman still makes solid state amplifiers.

Something to look at if you don't think flaring the port ends help much >link< The link applies to subs but the same rule applies to woofers.

Klipsch used plywood on their flanges for years and years, so have i with no issues. Like you said it depends on the grain and wood, why take the risk.

Same happened here, dad came out of his room and asked what was going on and i explained to him its another scam call. He is getting up there in age and gets confused rather easily, i feel sorry for those who do not have family or friends to watch out for them.

The senate passed a bill to hopefully reduce robocalls. >link< I get a few every day and welcome some peace and quiet.

Solid wood tends to crack with the grain but people are free to use what they want.

Nope, Klipsch is against DIY projects. Things used to be different.

Run the cabinet through the table saw 1" more in depth than the deepest component, remove the port and seal it up. Run a flange of 3/4" plywood ( depth determined by panel thickness) to install the back panel, let glue dry and drill a small hole through existing mounting bolt holes into new flange and reinstall the old back panel. You will lose some lower bass response but it will get you to where you want to go, if you run a subwoofer there will be minimal if no losses.

Start from the middle of the frame and work your way to the corners keeping the cloth straight as you go along.

You can forget about Klipsch selling you parts for an aftermarket build, not going to happen.