pzannucci

Well you have a smaller and smaller target audience. You need to come up with new ways to get people to spend money. Can anyone actually list the REAL pluses to using DSD over high resolution / high sample rate files? Size, what else? Considering that to utilize DSD data, many dacs convert to PCM. A list of players that don't have to do this would be helpful so we can steer clear of them if someone really feels compelled that they need DSD support. The problem though is on how many systems can you really hear the difference? I think most everything goes back to the original mix.

Yes, cabinet diffraction is mostly with cone and dome drivers though exists to a much lesser degree with horns. Some work on foam around the mouth to cut down on beaming and diffraction was shown in http://www.excelsior-audio.com/Publications/QTWaveguide/QTWaveguide_WhitePaper.pdf As Chris said, there are also issues with multiple woofers that may be mitigated with some dampening material. Unfortunately the real change is to lower the crossover point which can't adequately be done with the mid horn or position the woofers differently.

What the market will bear. Seems the price of Klipsch are holding steady and maybe even going up though the most I ever paid for even k-horns in pristine shape was $1500 and have sold pristine La Scalas for $800. I wish you luck seanwmill on the $2500 though I don't think it will happen on this forum. If they are worth that much to you I would suggest hanging on to them.

You will need to rip them from the original source, not the MP3 files. You can not "expand" MP3s back to the original as some information has been thrown away. Rip the audio files to one of the lossless formats such as WAV or FLAC. In theory, some say they can hear the difference though both formats should be identical when played back. If you have a fast computer with a good sound source, then you probably won't be able to hear a difference between the two since timing errors should be minimized.

Sphinx is not a typical Rogue Audio product as it is not complete tubes. I did have a Rogue 88 (KT-88 based) amplifier for years. Generally well made. Some humm when using k-horns but not many tube amps are dead quiet. Based on the reviews, the Sphinx should not suffer the same issues when using with a set of very efficient speakers. Also the fact that it has a Class D output should give you very good bass if you are contemplating or own a Klipsch speaker with multiple woofers. My 2cents anyway.

It does look like you need to get the room out of the way, not just the recording. Horns can help there. Now if you could mic the room and develop cancellation algorithms to totally take the room out as a sound source, sell it for $999, that would be a winner. Unfortunately, as with most technologies, the sweet spot is only a couple of seats wide.

Current and watts are needed with a KLF20. You can go lower powered tubes on the horns but the two 10" woofers go pretty low impedance wise so you will need some oomph. Low power with rock and roll seems a little bit of an oxymoron with a speaker like the KLFs unless you don't like punch.

I still have a SRS Labs 3D Theater processor sitting around from the 90's. I can say when you are sitting in the sweet spot, listening to live recordings and concerts, the sound is quite convincing. With just two speakers sound is above you, behind you and all around. Seriously enveloping. That was a $300 unit at the time when SRS was trying to gain momentum in home theater though they were in most televisions at the time. Two problems with it were that the unit wasn't true high end though sounded good for what it was. Also it had quite a small sweet spot when using two speakers but when you were in that spot, the sound was coming from everywhere. I do wonder how closely they were able to peel apart the sonic queues to actually position sounds appropriately though I believe it had it's basis on binaural recording. http://www.3dfocus.co.uk/3d-news-2/dts-and-srs-to-launch-3d-audio-late-next-year/9551 I wonder what DTS is doing with it now and if some of the new technologies incorporate any of the old Hughes Aircraft / SRS patents.

Actually, The impedance changes by the square of the turns ratio https://drive.google.com/viewerng/viewer?url=http://www.critesspeakers.com/3636atz.pdf Again, unless someone disagrees, the 10 ohm resistor in parallel with the varying impedance changes will eliminate the need for crossover mods. Without that resistor, every tap change would require modification of the squawker filter. If this were, say, a stock AA crossover, the 13uf cap to the K-55 would need to be replaced with a different value for each tap change. Otherwise, the crossover frequency would change. The 13uf cap's impedance is around 31 ohms at 400 Hz, matching the K-55 impedance doubling that the 0 - 4 output taps create. Cheers Mike Mike, Thanks for that correction. I was looking at current vs impedance. As for the other, your solution might work but if their are efficiency and response differences in the drivers, you may want to know a little more about the interaction of the components. I find the calculator very handy along with other items referenced off that web page on DIY.

When using an auto-former / auto-transformer, I believe the impedance changes with the turns ratio within the transformer. As djk said, you can change the tap to change the impact on the crossover point to get a driver that is not the correct impedance back closer to the original drivers impedance. The impact on crossover points will be determined by the end result of both components put together impedance. You can look at the DIY audio's site for "crossover designer" to see various impacts of an impedance change on the component values. Impact on sound, you won't know until you try it. Does the driver have the same efficiency and usable frequency range? Since you already know what drivers you are trying to switch to, you can follow what has been everyone has said here. If you find out it is not adequate for your ears, the above information I put in will be helpful in you in your tweaking quest. Generic solutions are good but not optimal. Edited due to brain fade

What are the full top box's dimensions?

Do that first. Next see if you can borrow the Yamaha you like, then go from there. Right now i have reset the receiver and left it as is(skipped audessey) and it is sounding little bit better(like neutral not bright not warm) than before. I will try the suggested audessey setup once i get hold of the tri pod tommorrow and will see how it sounds. Thanks for all the help you people are providing . Now my hope has bumped up in achieving the sound i desire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I really hate to say it but if you are using stereo and you have a good caliber receiver and a reasonable room, you should not need or use Audyssey with the RF82s. If you are trying sync distances, modify frequency responses due to locals in a room between a multi-channel setup or different speakers (large in front, small surrounds and non-fullrange center), then turn on Audyssey. For stereo you should be in good shape from the get go with good speakers and good amplification. A small amount of bass is typically all that is needed at moderate volumes with Klipsch. I have downsized in some sense to KLF-30s or my home built speakers run by a Pioneer SC-1222. No real need for any FR help at all. Running direct.

Not the newest in the Pioneer line though a good receiver, 4ohm capable: http://www.rakuten.com/prod/pioneer-sc-1222-a-v-receiver-7-2-channel-black-multizone-dolby-truehd/242277809.html?listingId=370022314&sclid=pla_google_Bigbenoutlet&adid=29963&gclid=CPTqks2zucICFaHm7AodIlEAoA Just a little over your budget.but as others here have found, sounds good and capable of using with external amps in the future.

The room as Willard said, if it is hard and reflective, it would not be good for a speaker such as the RF82. Additionally that particular Denon may not be up to the task. Most likely the RF82II, due to the dual woofers, will require a substantial amount of current in the bass which many receivers are not capable of giving. Suggestions on other AVRs? I think that particular speaker, most dual woofer klipsch speakers in general, require good current delivery to drive the bass and sound the best. AVRs certified for 4 ohm would likely be best, such as some of the Pioneer series. If not, go separates.

Smart Idea for anyone that has actually examined the guts KLF-30 vs. Heritage, drivers and crossovers. Their major drawback is the cabinet needs to be finished better. Some also say the tweeter diaphragm but having the Ti will be a taste thing. I do like the LaScalas dressed up though unless you have a really good set of subs and crossovers, they don't go low enough. Personal opinions YMMV.

Swap the speakers to opposite sides and make sure it is the speakers. Next is the wires between left and right with not changes made to calibration. Next is the room or something in it relecting. Lastly is your ears. These suggestions are for if you are sitting at perfect angles and centered between the speakers.

You could modify the bass and mid crossover since the bass bin can go higher but that would cost more and be more painful (tuning) than just getting a pair of k55 or the Atlas driver.

You know you've gone straight to Hell when you... When you come here and participate in this insanity, typically posted by thebes.

I think this is the most accurate response in this whole thread!!

Good tweeter if you are crossing it correctly. There are always better though for the money, it's sound is better than many multiple times it's price.

Thin veneer, only use a sanding block, not a powered sander unless you are an expert though likely an expert would use a super fine grit orbital or finish sander. Belt sander typically rips right through the layer of veneer then you get to do the whole side over.

What is the difference between the efficiency of a K-horn and a Cornwall? Is there something wrong with the K-horn bass section if it only gains 7db efficiency over the vented Cornwall? When talking horn loading, it is required to speak apples to apples along with frequency ranges while using the same driver. From what I read in the old Olson book (many many years ago), the shorter the length, the less control. 1/4 wave length is minimum. As you approach the Fc of the horn, your control is lost due to not being able to manage the resistance/reactance in the horn, just the frequency response gets very jagged. If this is true, you definitely want to keep the crossover up away from the actual horn Fc for smoother response. The nice part is today everything has correction built in via DSP. This may not be a 100% cure though it does help us break a lot of rules we assumed correct in the pure analog world.

What I find is many people feel that they have the big amplifier though they only have 2 8" woofers per speaker and have a big room. They crank it up with some added bass (as it gets louder it usually starts sounding anemic without a speaker tailored for high bass output at high levels without a sub) which will damage the speakers and / or amp. Know the physical limits of the two little 8" woofers flapping around. If they are, turn it down and go buy yourself a sub. This happens more times than not, especially in larger rooms.

I have another question on the color, why the move away from aluminum cones to copper colored IMG cones in the new reference speakers? Are these graphite or poly? Do they have some composite feature that includes copper?

Surprised nobody would like the 2" Selenium drivers for the price.