moray james

ports are obviously a lot cheaper than passive radiators are and with a pro cabinet there is usually room for ports on the back side of the cabinet if the front baffle is taken up with woofers and horns. Pro rigs generally have more available space so vent location is less of an issue unless you are talking small clubs so you will find small pro cabinets with front mounted vents. I like to have vents on the rear of the cabinet where possible but this will depend on the individual room. Rear vents do a better job of hiding upper bass frequencies which may escape via vents and it also covers vent chuffing better than front placement. I had one pair of KLF20 I upgraded for my daughter during her university days living in smaller rental accommodations I placed the vents on the front of the cabinet so placement would be easier and open up more available floor space since the speaker could be placed close to the front wall if necessary. On my other two sets of KLF20 I left the vents on the rear of the cabinet. It all comes down to trade offs and your priorities.

are you a member of some secret Klipsch society which avails to educate those who might want to modify a Klipsch product which they own that they are somehow unknowingly destroying forever a Klipsch loudspeaker? If you have no assistance to offer by way of information or help then leave the guy to it. How many warning do there need to be, is there a set number he can at least look forward to when the warnings stop?

you need brace work n matter what you build the only tine you don't is when you are making a very small cabinet and you use thick rigid wall material. Brace material should be rectangular a good ratio is 1:1.5 always fix the brace on the narrow edge so if you were using 1: thick material you would cut it 1.5" wide. I told you what I did with my Quartet re the woofers. As for ports you have no room on the front for ports with a Quartet and ports on the back are much more problematic than are passive radiators.If you want to you can re tune your Quartet passives by adding 2 - 2.5 ounces of dead weight to the inside centre (cone apex) of the passive used large flat washers to keep the centre of gravity low and centre the weights to keep the passive stable. Hope this helps.

The tweeter and the mid in a Forte 2 is the same as used in a Chorus 2 only the crossover of the Chorus differs as the mid is used to play down a little lower. Chorus can generate chest pounding bass but it is worth remembering this is in the 120 -140Hz range. KLF30 does not play quite a s low as either Forte but it pushes a lot more air so it has greater impact than a single 12" Forte. The tweeter in a KLF20 or KLF30 is the same tweeter used in both the Forte and Chorus model lines. While the mid drivers used in Forte Chorus and KLF are also the same the mid horn of the KLF is a newer and wider band design than that used in the Forte 2 or the Chorus 2 (both use the same mid horn). Hope this helps and is of interest.

this is how I braced mine. Would make some changes if I did this again but nothing radical.

The bass was so much improved that I am thinking of using only one woofer in my KLF20 rather than a pair as I now know that a single KLF20 ten inch woofer can be enough for me. Deeper extension than any other Klipsch I have had as well. Shows you what a good stiff box can do for you!

RIP Marvin, you are one of the great Boxers of all time. Boxing will miss you.

I dropped a set of KLF20 woofers into my Quartet added weight to the passive and added some damping to the cabinet in the form of high density fiberglass on the struts only and put them on four post stands which placed the centre of the mid horn at my seated ear level around 40" up off the floor. Best Bass I have achieved from any Klipsch I have owned and modified. see brace work below.

Issues with KLF series to know about #1) loose baffles (front and back) due to defective hot melt adhesive on the melamine. Remove the melamine at the joint reassemble with white wood glue will be much better than new and last forever. #2) Black poly tweeter diaphragms the worst Klipsch ever used replace them. 3) Woofer dust caps coming loose easy to repair. 4) Upgrade crossover caps. 5) Brace work. That's all the big stuff there are lots of mods folks can do to take them further if they want to. Excellent speakers.

I have owned three sets of KLF20 and a set of CF3 and two sets of Forte2 and one pair of Forte but I have not owned the Chorus but I do own a set of JBL L200b which now have installed in them a pair of JBL 2226 woofers (these are 15" based two way speakers not so different from the Chorus). I think the only way for you to know which will suit you best is to listen to a pair of well functioning KLF20 and also a pair of Chorus ll. The thing is that both do great stuff but you will have have to make this call.

Happy birthday PWK and thank you.

wow would love to hear a pair of those. thanks for posting.

Fremont wow you are almost close enough to visit.I could walk across the boarder (from Calgary) and claim asylum then come visit you and hear your newly re capped CF networks.

you are not important but you are taking up space and resources, you are a huge liability and that's a good enough reason. gotta cull the herd.

push pull EL34 will supply between 30 - 35 watts no problem.

The symbol for a PPTC (AKA Resettable Fuse) is: This poly switch is there to protect the tweeter from heavy hands on the volume control by partially deaf people. The parallel resistor insures that there is always 100 ohms in series with the tweeter (I think, for those who design xovers feel free to correct me, thanks).

well we are going to have to disagree on this one and I don't just base my findings on my own experience. I also find there can be a wide range of difference with brands and types of caps. I disagreed with Bob also regarding this, rest his soul. Lots of folks don't hear or notice lots of things, happens all the time.

I cannot recall if the C7 used the one inch ti tweeter diaphragm if it does then yes I would change it to titanium. The only way you will know if you will like this is to try and listen for yourself as only your decision matters to you.

phenolic diaphragms are warm rich/smooth and creamy sounding, titanium diaphragms are more detailed smoother in overall response a little more extended in the top end they are more dynamic resolution is better. you should really listen to both and make your own decision, though few are disappointed all the new Klipsch use ti diaphragms. No one can tell you what you will like. If you like any new Klipsch then you will like the ti tweeters and mids in your KLF30 especially the ti mid diaphragms available only from Simply speakers these are original factory parts. Hope this helps.

can't find it the RB5 will be very similar. There are only three caps in this crossover the bass section uses a 20 uF cap the tweeter uses two small Mylar caps should not be hard to read the values if you have the unit to look at.See RB-5 below. nothing to write home about parts wise but decent.

just curious to know if you tried the speakers with the tweeter horns to the inside as opposed to the outside position and if so what did you notice? You are very close to the side walls and first bounce will have an impact. moving the CD rack forward toward the loudspeaker will let it provide some first bounce diffraction.

I like your home made cylindrical poly fusers. Did you notice much a difference in sound stage and spatial image after you installed them?

you could grind those tweeter mounts off of the mid horns for a nicer visual and I am sure improved performance. Just a thought, carry on and enjoy them maybe closer to the front wall to pick up some extra room gain after all your Q-pies were corner mounted.

good luck with your sale, they look very nice indeed.