babadono

Hi All, In the past month or so my HT will lose both sound and picture momentarily and then come back up after a few seconds. Happens with both the satellite receiver or blu ray player. Any one have any experience with this problem? Everything is hooked up over HDMI. Am I just losing HDMI sync? How do you go about troubleshooting this? I am relatively new to the HT stuff but not to Klipsch. Thanks in advance, babadono

Rick, Congratulations on finding new employment! As far as the other "ROCK ON". Merry Christmas, Eric

Hmmm....great minds think alike. Eric

Isn't he one of the Strolling Bones?

Dave.. ah Dave....what are you up to Dave? Will we soon have a K-402 sized eliptrac?

I dunno about 3 things but the number one for me is that funky stereo recording/mixing of Sir George Martin with the vocals on one side and the instruments on the other. Was that the best they could do back then? but babadono

OK. Is this a trick question?

Carl, I'm sending you a PM on a totally different subject. Eric

Funny you should ask. When I was at Paul Klipsch's house he had to swap out some RCA connections to play me some of his recordings. You could hear him ***** and swear as you heard buzzing from unplugging and and plugging those stupid RCA connector that disconnect the ground before the positive terminal. This type of activity can fry K-77's so PWK added the Zeners to protect tweeters. They have no effect on the sound. Was this at a moment of forgetfullness? Never plug or unplug any connector that doesn't make ground connection first with the power on. Or better yet never do it with ANY connector. At the very least turn off your power amp

Dean, I believe I replied on the previous thread. I am using the BMS 4592 mid on a GotHover eliptrac horn. I believe it is an 8 ohm version. I have ALK ES crossovers and have the attenuation set to -13.7dB. This on a KHorn.I also have a Pair of Lascalas in the same room and use only the bass horn at the moment with the Mid and Hi output from the crossovers terminated into load resistors. And I still could use more bass. Either I really like bass or my room absorbs / cancels it out. But anyway the BMS/eliptrac combo is a beast, hard to keep up with. Eric

Don't pi$$ INTO the wind, Pi$$ing with the wind is OK. And don't tug on Superman's cape.

The danger of course is that the nonchalant attitude about the quality of music reproduction filters all the way up the chain to the recording engineers/ artists/producers and then the only thing made are bad recordings. If the recording you are reproducing only has 6 dB of dynamic range, I don't care how good your system is it will sound like doo-doo. Only my $0.02

Christopher, What driver is that on thet horn? Is that the PRV D250Ph? sorry for diverging off the thread topic.................... Eric

I have 4 CDT5800s in my ceiling doing rear and side surround duty. Sounds good to me, much better than nothing. And they are high WAF. On Sunday with Sunday night football on my wife was asking where the crowd noises were coming from, she thought someone was outside whistling trying to get our attention. Eric

I installed a tankless unit in my new house about 3 years ago now. I'm on propane and didn't want to keep a tank hot all day when i'm not using hot water. It has worked out quite well IMHO.But beware a tankless unit uses your pipes as a small tank, so you can think you have hot water and get in the shower and then the water gets cold again briefly. Google "cold water sandwich". Also check out a "On Demand" hot water circulating pump like the "ChiliPepper Appliance".

Dean et al, OK linear and log plots can be hard to compare, my bad. But still B and C claims approx 107dB sensitivity at say 10KHz and Lee measures 90? And I am only questioning to hopefully learn and understand more. So the different horn lenses are making that much difference? Eric

Dave et al, I do not mean to offend and I applaud you for your hard work. But are the graphs for the different drivers accurate and repeatable? From the driver data on the B and C website your results are surprising to me. Were they surprising to you? I am a humble amateur. Eric

Dave, Went to ALK site, my question is answered. So nevermind. But do the DE120s sound better than DE38s? Eric

Dave, Will the DE38 fit physically? Or only the DE120? Eric

LoveItLoud, I put 4 Klipsch CDT5800 ceiling speakers in my family room. 2 for side surrounds and 2 for rear surrounds. I had to move and add onto the wires the electrician had put in the attic but it was a fun project. I chose in ceiling for WAF. I know side surrounds on the wall and bookshelfs in the rear would probably be better but there would have been a lot more work getting wires in the walls etc.. and the end result a low WAF. Anyway putting the speakers in the ceiling was the easy part. Cut a hole with drywall saw and then the speakers pop right in and have little wings that fold out as you tighten the screws. In your case with building a new house maybe put wires in for both ceiling and wall speakers then you can make up your mind later. I have found that as long as the wires are hidden you can get a nice clean set up with WAF approval. And wire is relatively cheap(and easy) to put in before the drywall goes up. Eric

Chad, I would say if you or visitors are going to see the cable then how it looks matters more than specs. After all what are you sending to your sub 100 Hz and below? The only thing that matters is the resistance of the shield/low side signal between unbalanced pieces of equipment. check these out: http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=102&cp_id=10236 No affiliation with Monoprice yada , yada, yada only that i use their stuff and its the right price. Eric

Hi Dave et al, Well it is good to have the forum up and running again. Any thing new on these babies after the 2 week hiatus? Eric

Mark, Wow only -4! Mine are on GotHover's Eliptrac horn and are mid only. -4 would would way over power the KHorn bass horn. Eric

PM sent

Mike, -12 was still just a wee bit too hot for my system/ears/room. Next taps available is -13.7 Gorm, We are talking about the multiple taps that are available on the autotransformer that feeds the midrange driver. Adjusting the level by moving to different taps on the transformer is what I meant by "padding". To pad = cut down or turn down a signal level. babadono