wvu80

You are not wrong about what you heard concerning timbre matching the L/C/R. (FYI "Timbre" is pronounced tamber, like tambourine.) The majority opinion is in this camp. For instance if you have the RP series L/R the then matching center is also in the RP family according to most people. Mine is the minority opinion although I think more people are starting to challenge that old assumption of timbre matching. I came to my conclusions through experience. I have a top quality center RC-64 III which you are right, is a beast! It reproduces male and female dialog faithfully and is crystal clear whether played whisper quiet or crazy loud. My wife finds the RC-64 enjoyable because she can play it softly (too softly IMO) and she can hear the dialog without having to turn the volume up. I have paired that center with Klipschorns, La Scala's, the RF series and the RP series. Right now I have the RC-64 paired in my home theater setup with some good DIY speakers. Do you know what I discovered? It sounds great no matter what speakers with which it's paired and the other speakers still sound good. More, I found it the RC-64 makes all the entire setup as a system sound better than the speakers did by themselves, with the exception of the Khorns. Khorns sound exceptional as they are. A high quality center does not make the mains sound bad. Quality is the key. In my opinion one should get the best center speaker he can afford and don't worry about "timbre matching."

Couple of answers. Broadly speaking, everything is good. Despite the national freakouts, there have only been about 1700 deaths from the virus here in West Virginia. Most of those deaths were those over 70 with other major medical problems. As for me I've had a bunch of medical problems like prostate cancer but that seems to be gone after radiation and follow up chemo. I've dumped about 40 pounds down to 225 since the start of the year. I haven't been that light since the last century. The weight drop has done wonders for my all my vital signs. I play racquetball and pickleball 5 days a week. Nothing to complain about. How are things in your neck of the wood?

Here is the Great Gig in the Sky, horn style. It takes horns to play horns!

This is why I balk at jumping into the tube world. It's down the (very expensive) rabbit hole!

I would suggest going with 5.1 to start. Left/Center/Right (L/C/R) and two side surround speakers. Most TV and movies are made in 5.1. To get 7.1 the AVR will take the side surround signal and copy it, sending the same signal to the surround rear speakers. Not much discrete (separate) content is sent to the Rear Surrounds. I think you are better off saving money on the Surround Rear and put that money to a better center speaker. I highly recommend the RP-504C. It is the second best Klipsch center speaker you can buy and is second only to the RC-64 III. The center speaker is the most important one in your system. The reason is ninety percent of Movies/TV is dialog and 90% of the dialog comes out of the center. The secret to a great system is to get a HIGH QUALITY center speaker. Get the best one you can afford. I would rather have a GREAT 3.1 instead of a mediocre 5.1 or 7.1. The quality is what you are after and not simply numerous speakers that don't sound all that great. The RP-504C would be an upgrade over any R series. R = Entry level RP = Mid level RF = (RC for the center) is top tier I own the RC-64 III. Shown here with the RF-83 and RP-600M sitting upside down on top.

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Thanks for explaining. I didn't know that AVR's count the 2 subs, as 1 channel The .1 or .2 is confusing and the manufacturers use of those designations don't help. Technically .1 is the LFE or Low Frequency Effects channel. It is separate from the subwoofer bass. In more common use the .1 and .2 means the AVR has a low level (common, using an RCA plug) output for the sub signal. This means without having to buy anything else you can plug in two subwoofers directly from the AVR. These are IDENTICAL signals. If your AVR has only a .1 meaning one sub signal then to add a second sub all one needs to do is buy a 1-into-2 RCA splitter. This has the exact same signal as the .2. This .1 channel only provides signal and not power to the sub so there is no penalty such as less power for doing this.

Why the bump, John? What are you looking for from the K community? Do you have your KLF 30 XO, or do you need an XO? I ask because you are trying to create something virtually none of us have done. I love DIY and if you want a center speaker project then I say go for it, but understand you are going to end up with something that takes up your time and money and probably won't work all that well. Your C7 is a pretty good center on its own. I don't know why it doesn't sound good with your mod'd 30's. My advice would be for you to try to dial in the C7 using the electronic XO's in your AVR. How does Audyssey have it configured in terms of XO and EQ?

The Heritage Prices spreadsheet shows the Cornwall I in Good condition at $851 average. If you are a Buyer you want them $100 under the average and if you are a Seller you want $100 over the average. That range is still fair market value, a fair price for both Buyer and Seller. Here is the spreadsheet, feel free to download it. It's a good research tool. Click on any cell with a red triangle to see my detailed notes. Klipsch Heritage used prices ver 2020-05.xlsx

Those are Fir, black. H1's in GOOD condition go for $400 all day long, but this set has a lot of black paint missing in the front making these in AVERAGE condition which averages $335. Just the opinion of me and my Heritage Prices spreadsheet.

I'm with you. I thought the ad was a little confusing so I went with the exact wording. Maybe somebody parted these out, as an empty box for sale is unusual.

Cabs only. Seller says they are in Fair condition. These might be a nice pickup for a project as drivers are available. Crites might have an XO for them.

Yeah, me too. I don't want tubes, I don't need tubes but I find myself wondering A LOT about the sound. I give you full credit for at least starting a thread. I've been lurking on the Tube forum, something I never did in the past trying to make some sense of tube integrated amps and trying not to go down the rabbit hole. Anyway, I won't thread crap on your topic any more than I already have, but I am following with interest.

I would encourage him to ask his academic advisor, AND walk over to the med building and ask to speak to someone in med surg education. My concern would be in the commitment of time to be a TA. If there is a payoff in terms of getting a great recommendation that might be the way to go. If the the med surg doctors tell him that being a TA in physics is something they don't care about, then pass. I have a couple of degrees, BA in psych and an MA in Counseling.

Welcome to the Klipsch forums, Bradd. Did you have something in mind by quoting a ten year-old thread? Do you have La Scala's?

ROTFLMBO! I'm putting this up for Best Sarcastic Post of the Year. 😆

CF-3 v1 goes for about $650 in Good condition. These are in Avg/poor condition They are damaged in the front where a rubber cap covers a deep hole leading to the screw holding the front on. It looks like someone removed the cap then tried to pry to front off, not knowing there was a screw there.

I show the III with an average price in Good Condition at $2200. That price has come down since the IV was released.

I just found these guys. Acapella, the drum tracts and bass are all laid down vocally. Also check their version of Country Roads. This sounds great on my RP-600M w/10" sub. Little mini-amp 100 wpc.

Great suggestions, all ^^^! Add my voice to theirs. I have RF-83's, RS-63's and the RC-64 III. I suggest building a system from the center out as you have already done. I do have one suggestion to add. When you buy consider purchasing from @Paducah Home Theater owned by fellow forum member Cory. He was here as a contributing member long before he was a Klipsch dealer. He offers excellent service, as honest advice that is good for you, not necessarily him although the two paths can benefit both. He also has excellent prices and he ships all over the country. I have bought from him before as have many on this forum. Contract him via PM, ask the same questions and get his take. Welcome to the forums. With the 504C you are off to a great start in your audio journey. -Dave

Yeah I was just throwing that out there just for fun. We all have discovered things, many by accident along our audio journey and we learn by passing our knowledge and experience to others. Everything I know about Klipsch I got from the guys on this forum sharing their knowledge. The SEOS waveguides I like are $23 each, the B&C drivers are a little over a hundred each. I love the sound of the AA XO and I would not hesitate to use it with the SEOS waveguide.

I've got a suggestion Mr. @soundbound. I used to have 1978 LS's and 1979 Khorns with Type AA XO's. The secret to better sound is not in the mid horn, but the tweeter. If you've ever listened to the tweeter content by itself it only plays part of the sound, not a whole instrument. A cymbal might have just the decay and not the attack. The trumpet might have an overtone but not the entire trumpet sound. Frankly I didn't care for this squeak and squawk sound. I added a Crites A/4500 XO to the Khorn which threw more of the content to the tweeter crossing now at 4500 instead of 6000K. I disconnected the K-77 and plugged in a B&C 250 compression driver mounted to a SEOS 12" waveguide. I then placed it on top of the Khorn aligning the throat with the K-55V throat which served to time align them. The sound was a magnitude better then the OEM K-77. There were now whole instruments emanating from the tweeter. The sound was luscious and sounded much better than stock IMO. This tweeter and XO section cost around $450, parts available from Parts-express and the SEOS (highly recommended) from DIYsoundgroup.com. I would suggest using the 10" SEOS waveguide, I used the 12" SEOS because I had one laying around.

As others smarter than me have opined ^^^ "yes" the K-55M is a drop-in replacement for the V. A few years ago my buddy @mustang guy dropped a pair in his La Scala's. We A/B'd them against each other with pink noise. They sounded different as in one was slightly higher pitched than the other one, I can't remember which was higher. Not better or worse, just slightly different. After both M's were installed I couldn't hear any difference in simple listening tests. Both sounded good. There is a dip in the frequency response between 4500 Hz and 6000 Hz on the V. The M eliminates this dip. In real life you can't hear any difference in playing music with the dip but my buddy wanted to plug the hole and that's why he bought the M's. He felt better that he had a mid-driver which was technically better.

What do you mean Harb's gone? I just turned on the game for 3q. At 28-3 Mich now has a .3% chance of winning according to ESPN's win tracker.

That was a great thread! Very entertaining.