Paducah Home Theater

For retrofitting you don't need either. For new construction the bracket is nice because the drywll guys can cut a perfect hole out with a router in about 2 seconds flat, otherwise you have to make a big fat mess with a drywall saw. The metal boxes aren't typically ever necessary in a home, they are made for appeasing fire code requirements in false ceilings on commercial buildings. The speakers are made to be in a free-air environment, you're not going to improve the bass by installing a metal box like most people believe.

TLDR. 5650's are fine for atmos and saves a few bucks. However, hardly anybody buys them because of the perceived additional bass and higher output. However, it just really doesn't matter all that much.

yes, it's just the top end of a jubilee

they won't just sell the lens by itself, unless you had a pre-existing Klipsch product with it's own serial number that had a 402 horn and can prove that it was damaged. As far as I am aware, Roy personally approves every sale of these and he doesn't let stuff like that happen. You can order the entire assembly no problem, that's the horn lens, driver, and stand.

Because power strips typically revolve around metal oxide varistors (MOV's) that cost about a buck fiddy and choke down the current. If you want your subs to be surge protected, you gotta pony up the money and get something like a SurgeX or Brick Wall that's based on series-mode and not MOV's.

Without having a budget specified, look at the Parasound Halo A31. Would be hard to beat it as a 3 channel amp. However, once people start thinking about it, most end up going to a 5 channel amp, it's a lot of money to only get 3 channels out of the deal. Something like the Halo A52+ usually gets bought instead.

502S is more popular for side surrounds. For rears the 500M is more correct assuming you have enough room. Some people are right up on the back wall and it's awkward, so they opt for the 502S since it hugs the wall better, the footprint and looks are just cleaner than a rectangular box hanging on the wall next to your head.

The new ones should be more laid back, they have the Peerless compression driver with the coating in them which is the same one on the RF-7III's. If you put them side by side the old one is likely significantly brighter.

This is a well known issue with those amps, tons of them do the exact same thing. If it's under warranty just make a ticket at support.klipschgroupinc.com and they will get you a new one. Supposedly the new ones have a resistor mod, they added a 10 ohm resistor somewhere in the amp which supposedly fixes this. I have not seen this happen in the new SPL-150 amps, only the original R-115SW.

PB-2000 is closer in performance to the SPL-150. I wouldn't compare it to the SPL-120. I measured them before. Yeah the cones are mismatched but the cone on the SVS seemingly moves more. At the time I wasn't real sure where to put the microphone for a subwoofer plus my wires weren't very long so it was closer than what is ideal, but output at 20 hz was almost identical when I measured it with a sweep at full power, with the Klipsch R-115SW actually having more output as the frequency went up while the SVS remained surprisingly flat and seemingly much more neutral. The copper cone is about the only thing the SPL-120 has on the PB-2000, those look really good. I love Klipsch and all but I don't believe the SPL-120 can hang in any other way, maybe max output at a higher frequency or something but not at 20 hz. I will say that the old PB-2000 had an unnaturally high port velocity which could add some noise in the form of chuffing but the new PRO models added a second port which should help with this.

what they said.

my stash of black ash. I will have that many in cherry and also that many in walnut here in a day or two.

Absolutely no reason to get the K-horns over the Jubilees unless: 1. you just really appreciate the Klipschorn history 2. you just really don't want to bi-amp and have four amp channels plus the dsp 3. you really don't like the current industrial-ish resi-mercial looks of the Jubilees otherwise, the Jubilees outperform the K-horns in every way.

They started requiring serial numbers on pretty much everything so good luck with that. Some cases we have to submit pictures of the damaged item. They're cracking down pretty hard. There was a time where they were doing it for me but end customers had more leeway and could get stuff easier but I think that time has passed.

I tell people it's like NASCAR... the first 200 mph is relatively cheap, it's the next 20 mph that's expensive.

That rug really ties the room together does it not? Thanks to Andy Barnett, he brought it up, couldn't have worked out better.

that's hard to read but if you go directly to the image I just uploaded and zoom in you can probably read it better. https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/71207696_10156863151079401_916896863959908352_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_sid=ca434c&_nc_ohc=KGNXlkIxVbgAX8nq4ux&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=d2feae28c3b5aa98cedf40ea8adab26d&oe=5EBA80E5

You can pick pretty much any of the following. They just ain't cheap. Some are more than others. Problem is, some sheets of veneer can cost nearly $1,000 each then Klipsch triples that. You can easily double the price depending on what you want.

I think you underestimate the cluelessness of some of the shoppers on eBay. You'd be surprised at some of the things I see and hear and have to deal with in terms of tech support. You mostly solely deal with the smart people and it's not as big of a deal. I'd rather scare some of those people away than have to deal with some of the scenarios that I envision. It's more of a disclaimer anyway. I don't want any bad reviews coming back to haunt me. I'm careful about who I sell them to.

It's all about MAP / retail pricing. Same reason you won't find new AK6 Klipschorns for less than $15,000 or Cornwall 4's for less than $6,000. I'm not in the mood to lose my dealership status over that.

That's actually the official retail value of everything. I'm barely getting away with publicly listing this stuff at all, I especially don't need to list discounted prices, I would get in trouble real quick.

rc-62ii is a nice center, even speaker snobs love them, very clear, dialogue is very intelligible. I think it would work well enough myself. It's a little brighter than the RP series which should work with the 15M just fine.

RP-500SA is most popular. As mentioned above, if you're tight on space, maybe consider the 402S or 502S, those hug the wall much better. Also consider in-walls, like pro-180-rpw, or 160's. 402S / 502S are pretty comfortable and look good in that situation tho.

It's normal, unfortunately. At first it was all marked as B-stock. Now I'm seeing seams in A-stock. What sucks is that you can get two A-stock speakers and one will have seams and the other does not. It did not shrink, you typically cannot feel the seam. I think it's a matter of what light it is in, sometimes it's not visible. I upload a ton of these to ebay and see them all the time, typically I have to get it in the right light then point it out with my finger.

if using as downfiring elevation I'd use the surround setting. Upfiring Atmos speakers have a proprietary response curve that aids in the psychoacoustic effect, certain frequencies are more localize-able than others so Dolby made a response curve that manufacturers have to adhere by to pull it off, that's what the atmos setting is for.