Peter P.

Your own experience should give you enough data points to tell you what you read on the facebook klipsch group is what you'd expect from people smoking crack.

That was going to be my question, too. I'm assuming it was the color of the Tektons, because if you replace them with a pair of Klipsch towers, the size is going to be just as un-WAF-y as the Tektons. However, if it's the speaker's finish, then any Klipsch tower with comparable specs will meet your needs.

No, but we ARE pulling your jumper.

Those look like Scottish jumpers, but I don't recognize the clan.

It's likely the RP-150M's were designed to give the impression of "more" while they may not actually be flat across their frequency response. You're not gonna sell a lot of small speakers if they don't sound like they can produce bass. Also, the position you had the RP-150's in may have contributed to their performance. Any chance you can temporarily put the Heresy's in the same location just for test purposes?

Is it possible somebody tinkered with the woofers and they're wired out of phase with respect to each other? You sure you wired your amp to the speakers correctly? I'd pull the woofers and verify they're wired + to + and - to -, and while you're in there take a peek at the crossover and see if somebody tinkered with the components. If all is good then I'd say you're experiencing poor room acoustics. Yeah; you have to crank Heresy's to get drum impact, or just buy a subwoofer.

You're right. I was thinking the bulb behaves as a fuse. Looking at the schematic you provided, it doesn't. My instructions only hold true if a fuse is used.

In the OP's case, the speaker wire connects to the woofer terminal positive, and the fuse bulb replaces the bridging strap to the tweeter terminal positive. It's easy, and easy to access and observe to see if it's illuminating. I'd put shrink tubing over the exposed wire, but leave the bulb visible.

My calculations are correct then, because I used 8 ohms and 125 watts in crunching the numbers. Unless the speakers are bi-wired so the tweeter can be fused separately you have no choice but to fuse the entire speaker. Without knowing the max current draw on the tweeter, we're just guessing on how it should be fused. The owner's manual offers no information on which terminals connect to the tweeter! The only other option is to remove the bridging straps and run the speaker cables to the tweeter binding posts directly. Connect a voltmeter in series and measure the max current, or use a peak hold feature on the voltmeter and take a voltage reading, then do the calculations.

Well, if it's wrong, offer a correction and show my math was incorrect.

You're now obligated to give us a review once your ears stop bleeding from the demo.

Assuming the tweeter is 8 ohms nominal as the speaker itself is, I calculated a 4A fuse should be sufficient, if not a bit safe as I used the 125W continuous spec for my calculations vs. the 500W peak spec. Remove the binding post bridging straps, and run separate wires to the tweeter input terminals. A standard AGC tubular tubular fuse should be fine. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

THAT is cool. The music themed photo and the album cover collage tie in well to the music system in the room, showing your passion and adding a little fun. I'd say it was money well spent.

Give us a price ceiling for what you're willing to spend and we'll be better armed to help you. If you can't afford the $3k for Heresy IV's, that still leaves A LOT of headroom...

Please don't play them too loud-we'll likely hear them over the border. 😊

It could be due to many factors: Ear fatigue; Your ears are suffering from the high volume. The equipment: Either the speakers are reaching the limits of their excursions and operating out of their linear range or, the electronics are beyond their limits and the amp is clipping as garyrc has suggested. The room you're in: sound could be reflecting off the surfaces and such a level that it's mixing with the direct sound and muddying things up.

Ask and you shall receive: https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/ele/d/springfield-klipsch-la-scalas/7294440878.html

I want to know why companies build, and people buy, racks which place the equipment so low near the floor that you have to squat down to operate? Inconvenient and bad on the knees, especially since many audiophiles are getting long in the tooth 🙂. Here's mine. Custom (or California) Woodworks Design, can't remember which. Sadly, they're no longer in business. Modular, with a host of mix and match stackable pieces in various wood finishes. The bottoms have shelves and store books. I'm in the midst of remodeling so I apologize for the mess and disorganization. Keeping it Klipsch related, you can see my Heresy's peeking out from the background, which I'm diligently protecting as I paint the walls!

To help solve the wood filler/bondo/wood putty debate, why not buy some of each and practice on a scrap board? You're sure to find one you prefer, and the costs are minimal.

Move the woofer over to the other cabinet and see if the buzz follows. That will tell you if the woofer is the issue. Thanks for providing the audio clip. If it's the driver, I'm thinking the spider has come unglued slightly.

Recommend to me some tax preparation software. Macintosh compatible, please. State and Federal. The most complicated issue I have with my taxes is Dividends and Distributions of my mutual fund (1099-DIV). I could never understand the IRS instructions ☹️, so I usually had a paid tax preparer complete them. But I was in the big name office supply store this morning and spied some of the offerings, which got me to thinking. Thanks!

Both Ceptorman and CECAA850 are right; you can use speaker level inputs, or a tape record output. If the receiver has only one pair of speaker outputs, you CAN run the Heresy's AND the sub off the same set of speaker terminals as long as both wires fit. You can connect the sub's speaker level inputs to either the receiver's speaker terminals or the speakers' input terminals; doesn't matter. Speaker level inputs on a subwoofer are a high impedance so they won't harm the receiver's amp. What hasn't been mentioned is, expecting more bass from LP's is somewhat wishful thinking. Vinyl groove width limitations and RIAA equalization will limit how loud and low you can go. There are no such limitations with CD's which is why they sound better than records! I will now don my flame retardant suit and await the replies...😋

You didn't have this problem when your friend brought over his dual subs? If you did, then it's a room problem. If your new subs are in the same location, they should sound the same. Did you try switching your subs, left to right, to see if the problem follows the subwoofer? That would be a clue as to confirming whether it's the location of the left sub, and the room configuration, which cause the reduced output. Obviously, the fact the left sub does not have the same, defined corner as the right sub is the likely cause of the reduced left output. If it's that simple, I see no reason why you can't just increase the level of the left sub until the two subs' output levels are equal.

No, it's not okay. If you leave the bridging terminals in place, you'll be feeding voltage from one system back into the outputs of the other system. Bad, possibly damaging to at least one of the systems. If you remove the bridging terminals and run one system into one pair of terminals, and the other system into the other pair of terminals, what results is, one system only operates the woofers, while the other system only operates the remaining drivers (midrange, tweeters, etc.).

I'm with Bubo on this: try the used market on craigslist. I heard a pair of Forte I's with a 20 watt per channel solid state receiver and there was PLENTY of power to crank the Forte's. If you want new, I find Yamaha and NAD to be affordable quality. Yamaha's AS-301 or NAD's C 326-BEE or C 316-BEE will meet your price point and your needs. I own Yamaha.