Peter P.

The R8SW appears to be the smallest. But it only goes down to 38Hz, so I hardly consider it a true subwoofer. If home theater is your thing, you might want to avoid this one.

While the level of the output sound you experienced is unusual, I would expect it to be equivalent to whatever volume setting on your A/V receiver/whatever was set at, not some arbitrarily loud level like it sounds like you experienced. Here's what I would do to prove/disprove your theory: Disconnect the whatever wiring you're using (speaker/line level/LFE) as the input signal to the subwoofer. Leave power on to the subwoofer however you've got it set; I assume it's Auto-On. Do this for a few nights to confirm it's an input signal that's triggering the problem. If the problem still occurs, then the fault is with the subwoofer itself. If your A/V receiver/whatever is in a Standby mode when this occurs, you may have to actually turn the unit Off instead to solve the issue. Report back with your results.

Thanks, but even those look oversized for the wire gauge used, know what I'm sayin'?

Depends on the low frequency cutoff of your main speakers. Ideally, the subwoofer would take over seamlessly from the low end of your main speakers. Start by setting the subwoofer high pass filter to the manufacturer's spec for the low frequency limit of your main speakers. Adjust up or down from there.

You don't mention whether you prefer new or used. Your room size will be the deciding factor on how large a speaker is reasonable in your 12 x 12' room. Used Heresy's will fit the bill if you must have Heritage Series speakers. For new, the smallest Reference Premier series (RP-5000F) would meet your needs.

Wood putty, some gentle sanding, and black stain. If you find the side panels themselves have pulled apart, you can square up the box with a small ratchet strap used to repair furniture. Drive finishing nails in, countersink them, then fill the holes with a furniture repair pencil. I performed a similar nail repair on my Heresy's and it's invisible.

I like soundbound's solution. See if you can flatten out the dent made with the screwdriver puncture. You could use a small scrap of woven fabric similar to the spider, saturate it with glue ala soundbound's method, then when in place flatten it down with a small acid brush or paint brush. The spider is really just a spring to control the speaker travel.

Look on youtube for videos on how to remove the dust cover dimple. They will show using a styrofoam cup with fits nicely over the dustcap. You puncture the bottom of the dustcap and suck on it to provide a vacuum to pull out the dent. Some people will use the nozzle attachment on a vacuum cleaner; others will apply a piece of scotch tape and try to pull it out. I'd try REPAIRING the finish before trying to restore the entire cabinet. practice on the bottom of the cabinet only, until you get your techniques and materials down.

I'm not sure how you plan to repair the banged up corners, but if it's more work than necessary without a possible good outcome, you could always just install speaker corner protectors. If you look around you can find them in many attractive styles and colors.

I'd love to use banana plugs with my 16ga. wire but the banana plugs I've found accommodate up to mondo-sized wire. Therefore not only does it look silly, that skinny cable entering that large hole, it doesn't feel that secure once I strip the wire and tighten the screws. I'd love to find banana plugs made to fit 16ga. wire at the largest.

That's exactly what I have for my Heresy II's. Great customer service, reasonable price, quick shipping. I don't think I left anything out. You will definitely notice a difference as the sub will fill in that missing last octave. The bonus in your case is, the AXR-100 has a dedicated subwoofer output so you can adjust the level and high pass filter to your liking.

Dumb question-is the OP using a moving coil cartridge with a preamp meant for moving magnet cartridges? As far as I know, all moving magnet cartridges should work fine with a phono preamp meant for same. I looked at a web site selling the Reisong A10 and I see NO mention of a phono input, just an "AUX" input. Is that input phono compatible?

I prefer to run the sub and Heresy's separately because it makes it easy to compare with/without the sub, but quite frankly I do that so rarely I should just hook them up as the kg sw intended and let the high pass filter do its thing.

Yes. Using a voltmeter to measure resistance, measure the resistance at the input terminals of each channel of the subwoofer. With the switch in the Low Output position, you should measure 8 ohms, +/- 1 ohm or so. With the switch in the High Output position, you should measure 4 ohms, +/- 1 ohm or so. At the output terminals, you should read greater than 1M ohm regardless of the switch position. I just verified this with my kg sw, so you can trust the numbers are good. As long as you don't hear any nasty rasping, grating, or scraping noises from the sub as you turn up the volume, you can be assured the woofers aren't damaged. Lastly, with all the wiring connected, your regular speakers should still be working. You could also set a voltmeter to AC volts and with some music playing, put the leads across the output terminals. You'll see the signal bounce around a lot as the meter tries to follow the music. With the music at a comfortable level, you'll probably see less than 1 V. With all that wiring at the sub, pay close attention to + and - at the amp outputs, and sub inputs and outputs, so everything is in-phase. The forum expects a report once you get it up and running!

What a great write up of your restoration. I truly enjoyed it.

Don't think of it as a subwoofer per se, but as an extension of the the low end of your main speakers. As has been said, other than the low/high output switch (91 or 94 dB/w/M) there's no ability to adjust the level, and the kg sw has a low end cutoff of 38Hz; not exactly subwoofer range. It's an inexpensive, passive way to fill in the low end of most bookshelf speakers which don't reach below 50Hz, as well as older Klipsch Heresy's, without having to replace your speakers entirely. They are also something of a space saver, as you can easily find space for those bookshelf speakers while putting the kg sw in an out of the way location. Lastly, the kg sw doesn't consume power.

I have a kg sw paired with a pair of kg 2.2's. I was intrigued by the concept, and like you, wanted to fill out the low end of a pair of Heresy's I have (I eventually bought a subwoofer for the Heresy's). Definitely fills out the low end in my basement system. There's extra wiring involved; you run your speaker outputs into the kg sw, then run wires from the kg sw to your regular speakers; it has a built-in, fixed high pass filter. While MeloManiac mentions the unit is front firing, you can direct the ports rearward to experiment if you want. For the European eBay ad you reference, the price is fair. There's a pair on eBay in the U.S. right now for $400 EACH, plus $96 shipping. That's practically the original price. I paid $150 U.S. + maybe $25 for shipping, for the one I purchased on eBay a few years ago in similar condition.

What kind of ammo does it use? 🙂 Will it work on my hair; I hate Brylcreem.

That's what I had! Look like spikes/cones to me!

I believe I threw out my stock SB-1000 feet. They were shallow spikes, maybe 1/2" tall, made of a material I can't recall, other than I believe they were black.

I found the spiked feet that come with the SVS sub were too short to contact the floor through my padded carpet; I felt the sub was resting on the bottom of the subwoofer. I bought the SVS isolating feet, even though I have a carpeted floor, because living in a condo I was afraid of disturbing the neighbors. With your concrete floor, I don't see any benefit of the spiked feet coupling the low frequencies to the floor as they'll likely not be able to excite the concrete. Use the stock feet and you'll be fine. If you find them too shallow for the sub to stand over carpet on them, then buy taller feet. Klipsch recommended Meniscus Audio to me. Just make sure the threads match.

Unless under the conditions mentioned above, a subwoofer in an apartment isn't a good idea. Like others above, I own Klipsch speakers and an SVS SB-1000 in my condominium. I agree with those previous comments.

I hear you get a free manifesto if you buy the speakers.

Not all amps have a linear response to their volume controls i.e., 12 o'clock on a 35W/c amp isn't 17.5 watts, know what I'm sayin'? Usually they're designed with a lot of fine control up to the first watt. My old Yamaha amp appeared to run about 1 watt at 12 o'clock. But I'll bet that's not the OP's problem. Are they used LaScala's and somebody connected the individual drivers to the crossover out of phase somewhere?

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