Peter P.

Bookshelf speakers aren't usually crossed over at 80Hz, regardless of their low end rating. I still believe you over-drove the speakers, but the low crossover point you set was a contributing factor. 80Hz is usually reserved for "full range" speakers, at least when setting up a home theater.

When the unit is operating properly, does inserting a plug into the headphone jack disable the speakers? If yes, then I'd check to see if the contacts on the headphone jack are shorting, triggering the speaker shutoff.

You're not going to get warranty service as fast as you need your speakers, regardless of manufacturer. You're better off buying a pair for your trip. Maybe a used pair of Brand X on craigslist etal. Then you need to reassess your RV system. You probably should be thinking in terms of a car audio system, with weatherproof outdoor speakers mounted outisde the RV, or easily movable. Also, the problem could be you were playing the speakers with too much low frequency information beyond their capabilities. If you want to stick with your setup, it might be worth fusing your speakers or installing a high pass filter which will protect them from such mayhem in the future.

I use a police scanner for work. I've got one of the fancy new, digital-hear everything scanners. Takes a PhD in programming to get it to work. I've been playing with it recently as I try to get proficient in programming the thing. I've got a handheld unit, and the audio isn't that great. So I got the bright idea to see if I could hook it up to my system. I already have a stereo mini-jack dangling from the system for connecting my iPod, so I jacked in my scanner and lo' and behold-it works! The scanner's headphone output level isn't that strong so I have to crank the volume control on my amp. Anyone else ever do something as nuts as this?

Interesting problem. But since the noise is not detectable while listening to music, it should be a non-issue. But the question remains; are amps supposed to be totally quiet when no signal is fed in to them? As an experiment, I just turned on my stereo, with its Yamaha 80W/ch integrated amp and Heresy speakers, and switching to an unused input, turned the volume up to maximum. Surprise, I hear hiss! But it's at such a low level I have to place my ear directly in front of the tweeter to hear it. Maybe other forum members could try the test and see if ANYONE has a completely silent amp. I'll bet no.

I would contact Klipsch direct and see if they would repair it. You might get lucky and be able to ship just the plate to them vs. the entire speaker. Prior to doing so, I would suggest registering your product via the on-line product registration. While not covered under warranty, at least they would have a record of purchase. You can submit a request HERE.

Patience paid off! Good for you.

No horn tweeters?- JUDAS! 😉

I'm browsing on Facebook Marketplace and I see a pair of R-14M speakers for sale. They have a keyhole for wall mounting of course, but there's a rear port! Explain to me how/if hanging it on the wall would impede the port function. Why put the keyhole there at all if it's going to block the port? Did Klipsch design this on a Friday after lunch? 😀

For 400 bucks as long as they work, run, don't walk to get them. I don't subscribe to the theory of mating Speaker X to Amplifier Y so in my opinion you'll be fine. It would be nice if the speakers came with TILTED risers but if not you can always buy them aftermarket. After posting my reply I looked on Facebook Marketplace. There's a pair of Heresy I's for sale for a paltry 300 bucks! Yeah, the grills have stains and the honest seller mentions their flaws but I'd say they're worth it.

Well then, if that's what you've heard from Klipsch speakers and you don't want that, then you don't want Klipsch speakers. But that "hollow hallway like echo" is a sound quality attributable to room acoustics, not speaker construction. And your square, 12 x 12 foot room is notorious for sound problems as is any square room, especially for lower frequencies. Your room is small so and you have 2 subwoofers so you don't need large speakers. You can get away with 5" woofers and good setup of your AV receiver. Speakers that are THX certified will be more expensive because you're paying for the branding. They won't be budget friendly. I agree with the previous posts than any Klipsch speaker will serve you well. It's your room's acoustics and speaker positioning which will affect the sound more than anything else. Also, you'll want speakers that are wall mountable so either the speakers must have keyhole mounts or you will have to install wall mounts. Something to consider.

Yes. When the impedance is too low for the amplifier's design, the speaker is drawing more current than the amp can deliver. Think of it like a water supply; if the reservoir can refill as fast as people are using the water for showers, laundry, etc., then there's no problem. But there IS a problem is the demand for water exceeds the rate at which the reservoir can refill from rain, snowmelt, whatever.The amp strains under the demand of the speaker, and heat builds up. If this "load" isn't reduced, the speaker may have built-in protection circuits and shut down. An amp's specs will usually tell you whether it is "rated" to deliver X watts into a Y ohm load. Some amps, even like my solid state amp, have a switch I set to match the impedance rating of the speakers. Believe it or not, you can actually put a volt meter, in current mode, on one of the speaker leads and measure the current draw.

Sorry if you've already tried some of my suggestions. Do you have a laptop or PC with Bluetooth and/or USB capability? I would try both the wired and wireless connections if so, and see if you still have a problem. Looks like the R28-PF also has a mini-stereo input plug. Can you connect your phone, iPod, whatever, to that input and check the result? Does the Source indicator on the front of the speaker show it's detecting the correct input? Is the remote functioning? As far as the Audyssey app, try contacting them direct or visiting one of the many Audyssey forums. If you've truly tried everything and still out of luck, contact Klipsch HERE. Let us know if you have any success.

I believe you can actually buy car audio subwoofer specific amps. They would have all the adjustments you need. You're going to need a 12V supply with the same current rating as the RPW10. We use Astron power supplies where I work, and they work reasonably well but be advised the model number is the PEAK output (i.e., the RS-15 would be a 15A Peak output supply). A 30A supply is much larger than your sub's plate amp. It could be done, but you'd also have to seal off the hole where the plate amp used to be. One benefit to an outboard amp is probably longer life as the amp would not be subject to vibration. Why more manufacturers don't pursue this option is beyond me. I'd opt to see if you can get your current amp repaired, buy a replacement perhaps on eBay, or just replace the entire thing.

What's the rated output of the amp, into what the manufacturer's spec'd speaker impedance? I.E., are they "X" watts into an 8 ohm load, 4 ohm load, etc.? What's the rated impedance of your Belles? What do they measure when you stick a voltmeter on them? (I know you'll measure resistance and not impedance, but it's better than nothing.) How loud are you playing them?

The price includes the SVS subs and the Anvil cases. They must have legalized weed where he's from.

Oh, so I get it; you're taking a line level signal from the preamp and running it in parallel to BOTH the sub input AND the amp driving the Klipschorns? If that's so, I can understand how the sub is not getting enough signal; the current is being divided between the sub's input needs and the amp dedicated to the Klipschorns. The line level amp recommended by babadono would be a viable solution. Otherwise, your next solution is to ADD resistance to the signal feeding the amp driving the Klipschorns.

It's on eBay now. The price + shipping is reasonable to me. It's certainly rare so jump on it!

001 is right; $500 is the "good deal" starting point, depending on condition. If they're in good or better condition-cat didn't use the grills for a scratching post, kids didn't push the woofer dust caps in, no chipped birch veneer, watermarks, bad stain jobs; you get it, then $500 is a bargain. So you can offer them on craigslist for a FIRM price of $500, or price them higher and leave yourself some wiggle room for the buyer looking for a steal. Facebook Marketplace and craigslist are your best sites for local sales-that's where I found my Heresy's!

They're Klipschorns for cryin' out loud! Ain't no average subwoofer gonna keep up! It's not your line input level; your sub amp just does not have enough cylinders to run on, know what I'm sayin? Get the biggest sub you can afford, and I recommend a 15" driver, to match the size of the Klipsch woofer. You may even need TWO subs to keep up with the Klipschorns. Even SVS recommends their crazy sized subwoofers with Klipschorns when using their subwoofer matching tool.

You can't remove the studs because then the glider feet will not have anything to keep them in place when moving the speakers around. Since links don't work for you, how about at least some common item pictures. These are the feet for hardwood floors. Get the size that most nearly matches your studs. You can often find just the adhesive backed felt pads and apply them to your studs, if the stud shape is conducive to holding the felt. Otherwise you can try sticking adhesive felt pads directly to the bottom of the speaker but you may have to remove the studs to ensure felt contact with the floor. The adhesive felt, in pads or other forms, should be available at most hardware stores.

THIS LINK will explain why twisted wiring can help prevent interference. Since the OP is building a room with audio and presumably running cables within a wall, he will need cable approved for in-wall use; typical speaker wire is unacceptable. The reason is more for fire prevention than noise reduction. One way to ensure the speaker wires, if run in the walls, do not pick up interference, is to make sure wherever the speaker wires cross any other electrical wiring, they should cross at right angles. Should be necessity the wiring need to run parallel to other electrical wiring, it should maintain a certain distance from other wiring. I can't remember the spec; it's either 2 or 6 ".

Forget your age; all that cable and wiring jazz is witchcraft and alchemy. Send me the money I just saved you. 😀

What's the listed impedance of the 15" drivers; that's what we need to know. Connecting 2- 8 ohm 15" drivers IN PARALLEL to one speaker output will equal 4 ohms. If the listed impedance of each of the pair of 15" drivers is lower than 8 ohms, the resistance of that channel will be lower than 4 ohms.

Aren't any of you suspicious of this ad? The seller thinks these speakers have great value because the boxes were never opened? How do you as the bidder know what's actually in the box? They could be empty for all I know. And people would bid on these "boxes" speakers sight unseen?! There's a sucker born every minute... The least the seller could do to lend legitimacy to the auction is to remove the speakers from the boxes and show them, perhaps with the packing material in tact in some of the photos. Otherwise, stay away from this one.