isotopesope

that receiver is 100 watts per channel at 6 ohms... with 2 channels driven. adding the center channel will reduce the output throughout. ftp://ftp.panasonic.com/audio/om/sa-xr57_en_om.pdf it will be less than 100w with your 8 ohm speakers. plus, it only has a maximum of 135 watts power consumption, which is very revealing of it's true power capabilities. or lack there of. for comparision, my 5x140 watt Marantz MM7055 amplifier has a 660 watt power consumption. the specs of the AVR aren't too impressive overall, but seems like you've isolated your lower volume issue to the Uverse box only? does the Uverse box sound too quite when connected to your Outlaw?

i have no experience with McIntosh tube amps myself. just wondering what he was considering as a replacement to his Line Magnetic SET amp.

tube or solid state McIntosh? I am continually blown away by the sound from my Forte III and McIntosh MX-113/MC752 combo. My Klipsch dealer recommended AT LEAST 60 hours of burn in time for the FIII. Mine definitely smoothed out after a good 60+ hours.

I would try one of those grounding plug adapters or grounding power strips at your home. it solved my phono hum issue with my passive setup. prior to me adding the furman power strip, when I touched my tonearm or the ground, the hum went away. i bet it is an electrical ground issue with your house. so, really any phono stage is probably going to hum.

even with nothing connected, does the hum change when you touch the ground post on the back? It sounds like a ground issue or EMI interference to me. it seems strange you'd get two defective units like that, but who knows. were the two sets of R-15PM's close in serial numbers? maybe it is a bad run of them?? as suggested, I'd definitely try a grounding plug adapter. after moving to a Furman power strip, it solved the phono hum I was getting with my passive speaker setup. https://www.parts-express.com/furman-ss-6b-6-outlet-surge-block--248-759 As a test, perhaps try plugging that speaker in at someone else's house, your work, etc. just to eliminate any possible local EMI or grounding issues with your home's electrical system. With that turntable, using the phono stage on the powered monitor isn't necessary since it has a build in phono stage...? yes?

i've recently had great audible improvements in my 2 channel going from Monster RCA interconnects to using Blue Jeans ones... which are also USA made, but cost nearly a 1/4 of those AP situations. 1' RCA from AP: $108.90 1' RCA from BJC: $30.00 https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/audio/index.htm I use their balanced XLR interconnects in my 5 channel system as well.

"I don't always play my records outside, but when I do, it's at the most dusty/dirty/windy place I can find: the beach."

What have you done for isolation? My house was built in 1898 and has some pretty bouncy floors, but I can now do jumping jacks in front of my TT without issue. My TT lives on top of a 2x2 IKEA Kallax shelf, full of records. The shelf is sitting on 4 cork/rubber Wagner isolation pads. I also added some adhesive 50d sorbothane half spheres to replace the feet of my Kenwood KD-5077. Then placed the sorbothane feet on top of some Audio Technica AT-604 isolation feet (mainly need these for the height adjustment for my crooked floors). The AT feet alone were not enough damping for my situation. Note: sorbothane allegedly can stain some surfaces... It's all made huge differences for footfall and sound quality. Like I said: 180 lb 6'4" me can do jumping jacks in front of it without disrupting the play. Also running a record weight (helps with footfalls) and a Herbie's mat (definite SQ improvement - especially good for greatly reducing my beloved auto's drive noise).

+1 I also have a H/K 730 twin and thought it was a great match to Klipsch. I've retired it to a bedroom system that rarely gets used, but I'll never get rid of it: it sounds great, pulls in FM like a champ, and is quite handsome, IMO. i find it's looks are very subtle and refined. here's a great 730 complete restore: http://www.amcanaudio.com/?p=788

+1 i have a 70's Harman Kardon 730 twin, which is an incredibly great sounding receiver, especially with Klipsch speakers. the Twin refers to twin transformers; one for each channel. I retired it to a bedroom, but will never get rid of it. it's too handsome and sounds too good. pulls in FM amazingly well. those Outlaw 2 channel receivers are intriguing. never heard one myself, but their products seem great. @fahad1993, what is your budget and connection requirements? have you considered used receivers at all?

i'm using Blue Jeans XLR's between my Marantz AV7702mkII/MM7705 setup, with Neutrik NC3B connectors and Beldon 1800F cable. really happy with them, especially for the price. https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/balancedaudio/index.htm

it would be interesting for you to swap locations of where the Forte's and RF-7's are sitting and re-do the comparison. I do agree with you that the Forte could use a bit more bass, but where you have them placed is not doing them any favors. the manual suggests 2-10" away from the back wall for the best bass performance... i have had a big increase in the bass response of my Forte III's by bringing them closer to the back wall. A lot closer than seemed "normal", compared to my rear ported RF250F's that the Forte's replaced, but it made a significant difference. I first had them about 18" away, where my RF-250F's were, but then moved them to about 12". after R'ing TFM, they keep creeping closer and closer, and i keep hearing a difference. Now, they're about 6" away, at their closest edge. Instead of raising my Forte's, i have raked mine back to bring the sound "up" toward my big dumb head in my main listening position. YMMV Also, aren't you running aftermarket crossovers in the RF-7's as well? do they affect the bass response of the RF-7's?

no, not at all. at least to my ears and on my equipment. my MX-113's treble pot sits right at zero for most recordings. sometimes i bump it up a touch, but it's never set below zero.

are those grilles available separately? i went with the walnut Forte III's with black grilles, but those white ones sure look foxy.

whoa, actually, looks like you ALREADY have secondary bi-wiring speaker terminals built in. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/38289/Denon-Avr-3600.html?page=10#manual i was imagining "tricking" it by sending the main speaker leads to the LF, and surrounds for the HF, but you may already have a speaker configuration option that would work.

definitely. if you have all the stuff laying around, why not try it out? if you had two physical amps, using one amp per speaker would be called vertical bi-amping vs using one amp for the woofers, one amp for the tweeters, which would be called horizontal bi-amping. active vs passive depends on your crossover use... I'm not sure what you'd call it with a single multi-channel amp acting as a bi-amp configuration, but it sounds like a fun experiment. i'd imagine you could use the Denon to cross each amp channel separately, to create an active bi-amp configuration.

i have the Marantz AV7702mkII in my 5.0 system which looks pretty similar to the features of the SR6012... I am really pleased with it and it can do everything you're wanting to do. Both of those Marantz look like they would fit the bill nicely. You can setup them up for bi-amping for more power to each speaker, as well. good thing your Forte's have dual binding posts. i have Forte III's in my 2.0 system: McIntosh MX-113/MC752. don't feel a need for a sub myself, but bass for your face is a pretty "sub"jective topic.

holy word fort, batman! I find when trying to solve a problem, it's best to only change ONE variable at a time. It seems like you're changing two or three things per troubleshooting step and then comparing apples to oranges. If adding the EQ to the signal chain "fixed" the sound, it makes me think there is a problem with the crossover points of your GX5 or a problem with the H/K's pre output settings and/or speaker settings... Was the H/K outputting 2.0 or 5.1 signals? Was the H/K outputing to "full range" L+R speakers or was it outputting their signal with a crossover point? Where are your QSC crossover points set? If using the Sony UDA-1 sounds "way louder" than the H/K pre/QSC power amp combo, it again makes me think there is a problem with your H/K and/or QSC settings.

thanks for the feedback. I'll have to experiment with moving them closer. hope to spend some time tweaking this tweekend.

Prior to the MX-113, I was using a H/K 730 twin receiver as my preamp for my McIntosh MC-752. over all the McIntosh pre tuner won me over with it's high detail and clarity, but it was a tough sell. haha the 730 and the MC-752 were quite musical together.

That review was interesting to me. I picked up my Forte III's early this month, and have been experimenting with various speaker placements since then. The reviewer suggested he thought the speakers sounded at their best only 8" away from the wall? seems counter intuitive to me, but I am pretty new to this high end audio whirled. acquiring the Forte's allowed my RP250F's to migrate to a new 5.0 setup I've also just assembled. With the rear ported RP's I had them about 2 feet away from the wall. My Forte's are currently the same 2' distance away from all walls... Do the passive radiators like being closer to walls?

<<<first post. I initially tried bi-wiring my RP250F's on a whim, and was certain I could hear a difference. perhaps it is simply that the secondary speaker wire sounded better than relying on the jumpers? who knows. I moved my RP250Fs to a 5.0 setup I just put together, and now that I have Forte III's for the 2 channel, I am continuing to bi-wire them, because why not. I bought a 50' spool of 4 conductor x14 gauge Carol cable, and use it with bare wire terminations. Cheap and effective. I've made 5 speaker cables out of it. two for my 2.0, and 3 for my 5.0 LCRs. (Only the L and R are bi-wired; I made the Center's wire two conductor....) might be snake oil to some people, but it was only $65 bucks for 5 cables that sound great to me.