glens

Entirely a guess, but somewhere in one of the driver windows/tabs there might be an option to "use it anyway" or some such notion.

Likely it was supported, but not within the main distribution image itself. Some hardware needs non-free (not cost, which is one of two "freedoms", though still available at no cost) blobs and/or closed-source drivers, with which it works as well if not better than under any other system. At one time I had a wifi card that needed the driver to be installed from an additional directory on the media, but after a minute or two a window would pop up telling me so, asking would I like that done for me. Maybe you weren't patient enough or maybe it was many releases ago?

Might look into something like Pig Spit or S100 products. That's the first thing I'd try.

Inorganic is okay. Running both high and low freq. lines together on the same standoffs will degrade the sound quality. Straight/flat will accentuate both capacitance and inductance, so never do that. But overly-twisted is bad, too. Like with anything in life, moderation is important. The distance between the precisely parallel (so important!) sets is dependent upon the distance. Also, don't neglect the orientation with the Earth's magnetic field (you want complementary angles with the left and right channel runs or it's all a waste of time). The greater the run length, the greater the parallel separation you want, but don't get too carried away because too much is as bad as too little. One important aspect which has been so far left out of this discussion is that lead lengths absolutely MUST be precise multiples of 57-1/8 inches. That's finished length, I believe, if twisted, so be sure to allow for that when making cuts! (Best to cut to final length after twisting, if possible.) Edit to add: Do not under any circumstances overly-tighten any zip ties on your wires!

It's a lot easier to rip your CDs to flac and serve them up than to do so with LPs. Been there done that with vinyl, same with reel tape and cassettes. It was all great (enough) in its day; good riddance. Digital is here to stay.

That would often be because having (had?) the disease you're immune, and folks like to share in the joy of having survived. Neither seems to be the case here!

My bad, saw the "Austria" at the tail end of the previous post and your question about Oz; somehow missed you weren't addressing that post.

It isn't. Just Cu. The earlier reference to having the sales associate cut some feet off the roll was likely just "lamp cord" (which certainly would suffice for the specific topic).

Haha! About a half a globe away - you read in an extra "al".

And maybe the stuff from Home Depot is pure copper (maybe even "oxygen-free") while the stuff from ebay is clad AL (or clad something else)? I bought a 50' spool of #14 "speaker wire" at Home Depot not too long ago (they had shorter and longer spools available) and I don't think it was even $20. It's pure copper at least.

Is the noise brief or continuous? When I read this yesterday I was under the impression you were saying it was a continuous noise like as if you'd have to shut the speakers off to stop it. The response above opened up to me the notion of it being just a brief spurt of noise... I've kind of gotten the impression in these parts that maybe Klipsch doesn't do so well with their electronics (I'm sure it's not so much the case, rather just my limited exposure), but in this case, if it's just a momentary noise, it could be the fault of the TV sending data randomly instead of breaking it off cleanly on a "word". If a packet of data gets sent with the starting bits but not cleanly ended, the receiving end might not be faulted for doing its best with what comes its way. However, the receiving end maybe should buffer the data and not process it further until it gets a clean ending signal, but this could produce some (although very slight) delay which would/could be more objectionable as it would be an ongoing thing - not so much a problem unless the sound needs to be synced with a visual. I guess what I'm getting at is the question "Do you have a different TV (or similar type of source) you can try?" to see whether the problem actually lies with the speaker?

But now you find yourself in a position where you can find no joy/reward in stumbling across component combinations that create magical synergy! Whatever are you going to do with your time and money now?

Yeah, someone could post a screenshot of a 3 microvolt potential between the two types of speaker wire (while, if either of the wires were connected to a speaker it would be producing 115 dB at 15'), and assuming the trace wasn't even the result of that next-door radio station, someone else would post a "see, I told you so" response, and another would as well, but having the opposite reason for doing so.

One is driven by the interaction of an alternating-current voltage signal sent to a coil of wire attached to a movable cone, and a stationary magnet field (the 12" driver), and the other (the 15" driver) is driven by air pressure inside the sealed cabinet, created by the motion of the first driver?

With loudspeakers at north of 100 dB efficiency, it ought to be possible to wire the speaker across the same "polarity" leads of a parallel run of the (any) two wires in question. If there is an audible difference in the signal available at the far end it should appear as a difference in potential. Certainly an oscilloscope would give a visual if it can't be heard, but if it can't be heard maybe it ain't enough to mess with anything beyond "adequate" anyway. Anybody got a 'scope, a digital camera, and both fancy and plain wire along with a few minutes? Could maybe get this baby put to bed once and for all by at least showing the difference in potential at the "working" ends.

He didn't say anything that indicates a changed mindset regarding classical music (or did I miss it?). Coming from a loving owner of Forte 3s, I think they shine with classical (really pre-classical and some earlier "classical" - on period instruments - is what I have - a bunch of it).

Okay, EE, should be easy for you to do the math and show your work. Granted, it'd be a bottleneck, but a quite, very, extremely insignificant one. What're the spreads in resistance (and ampacity) between 12' each of #12 and #14 and the quantity (11.96' of #12 + 0.04' of #14)? I'm going to guess off-the-cuff that the combinational run will wind up above 95% of the way towards the full #12 run from the full #14 run.

1/2" of #14 isn't going to degrade 12' of #12 enough to write home about.

What do you figure typical high-level crossover losses to be, as much even as 1 dB?

I just fetched a copy of the manual from klipsch.com and you're right, it leaves a bit to be desired. I didn't see anything about an access? panel, and the spikes appear to be shown going into pre-drilled holes. Is the speaker too wobbly on the carpet? If not, I wouldn't worry about the spikes. If you feel you need them and there aren't holes already there (maybe they're plugged?) then drill holes snug-sized and only deep enough.

Looks like the speakers had been kept in a humid environment with rust whiskers formed but not yet shook off by (heavy-handed?) transportation when he'd auditioned them, near as I can tell by his second photo. I doubt that snubbing the drivers either physically or electrically would've helped in that case. Not shaking the crap out of them (literally) would have been the only thing to "save" them at that point.

There are different ways to "digitally" control volume and even when done entirely in the digital domain (as one option) what you said stated there most usually isn't what's happening.

Slot-loading everything?

Correct. Nice to see someone gets it just from the image. Well, I didn't think you were using the steel tape to time-align your drivers and I know how much it sucks when the maid bumps the knobs while cleaning.

Yeah, but do they sound the same? Hahaha...