82 Cornwalls

I assume these are the ones:

With speakers like yours the power supply becomes very important and whether it is because of a particular design not being up to the task or because of tired parts the speakers will not be able to show their true potential.

Very few of the amps I have owned had multiple taps, the 3 I have now only have one pair of outputs. In this situation you just have to hook things up and see how well they get along. I don't push my amps and have never had a problem. As far as speaker loading is concerned I'm sure over the decades there have been a lot of less than idea parings and yet somehow the equipment kept playing and the owners were blissfully enjoying the music. Roger Modjeski (RAM Labs/Music Reference) often had his own way of doing things and they worked for him; never saw many customers complain either. Thank you for your replies DE.

DE Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are saying??? But, You keep mentioning pushing the tubes to their limits, that sounds to me like more of a guitar amp thing than sensible design/use for music reproduction with a tube amp in a home setting. If someone is regularly pushing their amp to the limits when listening to music I hope they would notice the bad results/sound and decide to move up a notch (or two) in power output.

@hellis739 Did you compare a 50W (or even less) class D amp to your 50W class AB amp? Did you compare the amps mentioned over time switching back and forth between the 2?

Must depend on the design of the amplifier; read what Roger M. posted here regarding light loading in reply #9 https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=98785.0 I just hook things together and listen, if it sounds good I don't worry much and have never experienced any problems. It doesn't seem very useful to compare guitar amplifiers to ones designed for and used in a home system.

If you can achieve the loudest levels YOU listen at in YOUR home you are good.

I would always call a dealer before making a trip.

Sundown One in Springfield Illinois only has one pair of Heresy IV in stock, no other Heritage speakers.

Did you read this somewhere or do you have a lot of experience with old and new tube amplifiers? Also what do you consider vintage? Before solid state?

!

Unfortunately many speaker companies don't follow that. Just one example from a well know company "Impedance: 8 ohms nominal, 3.1 ohms minimum." And the summary from independent measurements "Although technically this is an 8 ohm design, I think it should be used with amplifiers that are comfortable with 4 ohm loads." Where minimum impedance is and the phase angle are also important considerations.

Edit: read @CWelsh 's posts in the pictures of your tube amplifier thread so this is a moot point. I would disagree since he feels a 7 watt ACA solid state is louder than the 27 watt tube Fisher and he is not completely happy with it. No guarantee a refresh will change it a lot, but from its history I would want to find out what it is truly capable of. The use of I above obviously indicates my opinion and thoughts.

The instructions for both connections are in the owner's manual, with a Y cable is just written instructions, balanced has a diagram. Don't believe you will have 6 watts doing this, tube amps don't work like solid state, about 4 watts at best.

I wonder if the Fisher is working 100% since it should play at least as loud as the ACA. How old are the tubes?

Tube amplifiers use the output transformer to match as closely as possible the impedance the output tube likes to see with the impedance of the speaker. Some tube amplifiers use multiple output taps and it is good to try them as AR suggests, other tube amplifiers use an output transformer that only has one tap like 6 ohms knowing that it will work reasonably well with a wide range of speakers. There is more to it of course like voltage vs current etc. I have actually experienced a tube amplifier with a well designed power supply and circuit outperforming solid state amplifiers with weak power supplies (cost saving) driving very low (below 4 ohms) impedance. This is the exception rather than the norm though and as with most things we won't know for sure how an amplifier and a pair of speakers will work together until we try them. The "nominal" rating of a speaker generally is not very useful. There are guidelines, but many manufacturers have their own way of doing things.

Just liked posts from 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008. Not henry, the other guy.

He is around "liking" posts from years ago.

It was 2 people being unreasonable (don't ask me how I know). How does slam dunk apply?

And the sold listing says best offer accepted. Must have wanted a Formula 1 fast sell.

Nice! You won't even notice the difference in weight when you add risers. The risers on my CWs had bad water damage when I got them, the new ones weren't more than a couple lbs.

Only one rectifier, the other tubes are voltage regulators. There are quiet amplifiers that use VR tubes.

Some hear differences and some don't. For those that do life would be easier and less complicated if they didn't, but once you hear it.....it is hard to ignore.

FWIW Sorry but I'm not buying your arguments in this and the other posts. Been using speaker inputs on subwoofers long before I ever heard of REL. People I know that prefer speaker inputs were comparing full signal/no filter before the subwoofer x-o with either low or high level inputs. REL allows the use of LFE and speakon for those that have their HT and music system together.

Anyone that worries about tubes probably shouldn't have a tube amplifier, hum or no hum. 😉 I find it odd that the UFO25 and 300B amplifiers need to hum to sound good? Having owned or heard several not 25 versions of the SE84, an original Taboo, the SE34i, and even owned the original blue Torii (a different sort of p/p) without hum issues, not to mention other brands of single ended tube amplifiers that were quiet. Even my diy ~7 watt SET amplifier is silent.