Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for 'BAR 48'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Klipsch Announcements
    • Klipsch News
    • Klipsch Pilgrimage 2020
    • Klipsch Website & Forum Info
  • Klipsch Museum of Audio History
    • Klipsch Museum: News & Announcements
    • Ask the Historian
    • Klipsch Museum: General Discussion
  • Klipsch Audio
    • General Klipsch Info
    • 2-Channel Home Audio
    • Home Theater
    • Subwoofers
    • Architectural
    • Klipsch Pro Audio
    • Technical/Restorations
    • Headphones
    • Personal Music Systems
    • Talkin' Tubes
    • Solid State
  • The Klipsch Joint
    • Garage Sale
    • Lounge

Calendars

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Location


Interests


My System


See My System


Website URL


Twitter


Skype


AIM


Yahoo


MSN


ICQ


Jabber

  1. Thanks! Yes, I have seen the note "Please Note: Virtual Surround mode must be enabled with each listening session. The sound bar will not automatically resume Virtual Surround mode after it has been powered off and then powered back on again." However, if you look at my bug report (Note no. 1), the feature itself is enabled after the on-off-on cycle, but the LED indicator itself isn't.
  2. Ha, I haven’t seen Hopper since the bar last Wednesday. Noelle belongs to my neighbor. The best sort of cat. She comes over and gets to hang out but I don’t have to pay for her. Speaking of cats, I saw this beauty on my walk downtown getting coffee the other day.
  3. I wanted to add my experience getting the Bar 48 back up and working. I can't speak for the Cinema 600 as this thread is for the Bar 48 - so my experience may or may not apply to the Cinema 600. Symptoms: The control panel and lights on the Bar 48 started flickering, then a few days later stopped working all together. Since the speakers still worked, I ignored the issue as an annoyance. However, after another day or two, the speakers became very staticky and then stopped working all together. After disassembling the guts of the Bar 48, I tested the volage on the 5v side of the power supply - being very careful to not touch any of the 120v parts on the same board. I tested the voltage between GND and VDD. It would show 5v, but then rather quickly started to drop. Around 4.6v, the lights would stop functioning. The STB is 3.3 v out (more on this below) and it turns the 24v power supply on and off. I'm guessing that's why my lights stopped working (dropped below 4.6v) but the speakers were still working (still above 3.3v). Eventually, the 5v side dropped below 3.3v and the 24v side turned off - or at least that's my guess. Side note: I don't have the proper tools to fully test capacitors, but I tested C05 and C06 as suggested by @ongtw75. C05 appeared to be not holding voltage, but otherwise seemed okay based on my rudimentary tests. C06 seemed to be fine. I replaced C05 with two 100uF capacitors but I still saw the same issues as described above. I didn't have the patience (or necessary replacement parts) to test the other capacitors, so I just moved on to replacing the entire power supply. Observations and Reverse Engineering: Based on other posts in this thread and my own testing, I am fairly confident the power supply is set up as follows: 5v side: VDD -> GND: 5v which is used to power the control board (lights, buttons, IR remote sensor, bluetooth, etc) STB -> GND: 3.3v when the soundbar is on* STB -> GND: 0.1-ish v when the soundbar is off* 24v side: V+ -> V-: 24v to drive the speakers *STB -> GNC is used to control the 24v side of the power supply. This supplies 3.3v from the control board back to the power supply when the power is turned on, so previous instructions to connect this to 5v+ are incorrect. You can either leave this unconnected or you can use it to trigger a relay (see below). If you really want to wire it to something, wire it to ground, not 5v+. But, if you are not wiring in a relay, the STB wire doesn't do anything so you might as well leave it be. Solution: I ordered this power supply and this relay. The relay is not necessary - but if you want to recreate the original functionality of killing power to the speakers, then the relay will do the trick. Otherwise, you can wire the speakers directly into the 24v side of the power supply and just leave them "on" all the time. Probably not going to hurt much either way, I just like the idea of keeping the functionality as close to original as possible. To keep things clear, I'll refer to the 3.3v STB wire as XXXX (the pattern marked on the wire), the 5v+ wire as Pink, the 5v GND wire as White, and the 24v + and - as Red and Black respectively. To begin, I made sure everything was unplugged. Next, I clipped all the wires connected to the old power supply. You likely want to verify that your colors match mine before you go snip happy. Next, I stripped and connected the AC mains power to the appropriate terminals on the new power supply. Mine was labeled AC-220v. The polarity does not matter. Then, I connected the Pink wire to the 5v+ terminal on the power supply. You will probably want to verify with a multimeter, but mine was the DC2+ terminal on the power supply. This will supply power to the controller board. I also connected a pigtail to the 5v+ terminal as well, which I will connect to a relay (this is optional). Next, I connected the White wire to the 5v- terminal, marked as DC2- on my power supply. Again, I connected a pigtail as well for a relay. At this point, you can test your setup if you want to. The controller board should power on. You should even be able to connect to Bluetooth, etc - but you won't get any sound yet. If you are not planning to use a relay, you can simply connect the Red wire to the 24v+ (DC1+ on my power supply) and the Black wire to the 24v- (DC1-) and you are done. The XXXX wire can be connected to the 5v ground (DC2-) if you really want to - but there is no need to connect it to anything. If you are planning to use a relay, instead connect Red to the NO (normally open) terminal and Black to the COM (common) terminal on the relay. Then connect your 5v+ pigtail to the DC+ terminal on the relay, and the 5v- pigtail to the DC- terminal. Lastly, connect the XXXX wire to the IN (trigger) terminal on the relay. Make sure the relay is set to HIGH switching. Now, whenever the soundbar is turned on, the STB (XXXX wire) will send 3.3v to the relay trigger (i.e. setting it high), causing it to close the "normally open" circuit. You can reference the attached schematic drawing. It doesn't really matter, but just note that the blue wire is 3.3v going from the controller board to the relay (when the soundbar is turned on). Again, STB (aka the XXXX wire) does not need to be connected to any 5v sources (or 24v sources for that matter). circuit (4).svg
  4. In building this new house, all my gear is going upstairs in my upstairs "music room" so nothing major is going to be downstairs...at all. That was my main point for building out the upstairs was to keep it minimal downstairs. We obviously want music downstairs and it will most likely just be streamed in from our phones via Spotify, etc., from my upstairs server, and probably from the TV. So all I'm really wanting to do is something like either the RSB-14 or a pair of The Sixes. I lean more towards The Sixes "but" my wife is wanting the shelves to the left and right of the fireplace to be for "stuff"...as in decor, pictures, etc. That's fine. Living room is about 20 x 22 but is open to the kitchen, foyer, and dining room which makes it more like 35 x 35. The RSB-14, along with the others, seem to only get favorable reviews at best but I'd be ok with it, or another brand that worked better. Again, I lean more towards The Sixes and the get the more favorable reviews of the two. Either keep me from having to use a separate receiver, etc., to have tunes downstairs and there will never ever be surround downstairs. Ever. I'd rather stay with Klipsch as I don't have to pay retail for them as I know all of my past accounts/dealers throughout the DFW metroplex , OK, and AR (where I live) from when I was a rep. I do have room under the base cabinets to put a receiver and I wired for speakers from one side to the other. So, going that route wouldn't be that big of a deal. Just trying to be reasonable on price as the living room is not where I'll be doing the major listening. Living room will be more for casual music while cooking, watching tv, or having a get together. What say the flock?
  5. Yes, I did every possible check and it’s totally dead and not working. I was expecting it to last at least 10 years. I purchased because I’m a big fan of the stereo speakers which I own several. Mia it possible to buy the sound bar only and reuse the sub and surround speakers ?
  6. Thanks, it kind of went through a few changes lately, just some updating after years. Some lighting changes in the bar and mostly in the garden around it plus a few new coats of clear on everything.
  7. He is gone now, same in another post. But nice to see @dtel Tiki bar again.
  8. Can'r say I've seen kids eat Elmer's ... I do remember seeing school paste being eaten. you let refried beans get dry? If they're in a pan, you need to cook them off. I used to work in a restaurant. I was a "dishwasher".. ran the salad bar, made garnishes .... assisted the cook/s a nerdy question.. I haven't googled When you do electrolisys of water, you get hydrogen and oxygen. Because water is H2O... does the oxygen come off as O1 or what?
  9. Hi Having issues with the bluetooth sub from the Bar 48. Sub stopped working and when I attempt to connect the sub to the sound bar the pairing light does not light up at all. Have tried factory reset of the sound bar no difference and have tried unplugging the sub once again no difference. I have searched trouble shooting the the BAR 48 and have found multiple posts about the power supplies failing, I find this to be more than disappointing seeing the BAR 48 I purchased is less that 2 years old and out of warranty. Seems there is nothing I can do but buy something else to replace it. Guess I should have done my research before buying Klipsch. Live and learn.
  10. I recently purchased ( 7/27/21 ) a Cinema 600 series sound bar and a Sony A8H Bravia OLED 55 inch TV. The TV and the Cinema 600 were installed last week ( 8/23/21 ). The dialog sounds great while watching media on cable. When I attempt to use the apps ( Netflix or Prime ) the dialog is muffled. I have tried all dialog options on the remote, but not does help. I have to increase the volume to a high level to hear the dialog. I have spoken with the Klipsch customer service reps regarding this issue, it was suggested that the sound bar be replaced. I questioned why the dialog volume is good while watching cable and not the apps? They were unable to answer why or if they felt confident, that a new sound bar would resolve the dialog issue. I requested to speak with a technical support person or manager. I appreciate you are willing to replace the sound bar, but the sound bar is attached to the bottom of the TV, which is mounted on the wall. I want to make sure this viable option, before I incur additional expenses to have the installation company return to my home and exchange the sound bar. Regards, Barry
  11. Hello Forum, Could you please help solve this item? The sound bar cuts out with a loud bang and then starts working 10 min later, only to start crashing 5 min later. Thank you
  12. There was a pretty rare 3 channel soundbar in the Heritage lineup a while back. It wasn't self-powered. https://www.klipsch.com/products/heritage-theater-bar
  13. I have the same problem and must unplug and then restart the bar to resume audio. I have no other solution, but I wonder if this problem is more widespread.
  14. Klipsch announced new sound bars at CES. I was looking forward to getting one of the new ones, since feedback is the current generation sounds good, but the technology around wireless (bluetooth and play-fi) is not so good. What is the release date for these devices?
  15. I also have a Sony X900H and klipsch cinema 400 sound bar and my sound bar turns back on every time i shut off my tv, very annoying.
  16. JohnJ

    The Other Discs

    Haven't heard that 12 bar blues yet. It'll be on my list when I can listen on something besides my phone!
  17. Well beeing in a hospital isn´t that exciting ,not many entertainment choices here, it´s not a theme parc , a dancing tabel bar or a night club ? Am I right ? 😂
  18. Klipsch site says it's not out yet. Any one have any insight or information regarding this soundbar?? I'm retiring my RVX 54/RSX5 Theater system and for WAF hoping to go with a soundbar and 2 KG1's for rear channels. Love the RVX looks but have to submit to a newer 'lower profile' look. Really want to use my newly acquired KG1's but not sure of compatibility with a soundbar. Mid century modern is the look we're going for so that new Theater Bar would seem to fit in perfect and not conflict with the KG1's. Is there any information out there yet about this 'passive' bar? Wonder if there will be a Jamo equivalent.
  19. Hello to everyone. I have been reading this thread with a lot of interest. Thought I'd share my experience. I purchased a Cinema 1200 in the fall of 2021 and have been experiencing many if not all of the issues cited here. Buggy app, mismatches between setting in app and settings on sound bar. My main problem though is the soundbar will intermittently freeze up when I turn the equipment on. No buttons on remote or soundbar will fix it. All I have is a cable box connected to a Samsung TV via HDMI. HDMI eARC from TV to HDMI eARC on soundbar. When the glitch happens, the soundbar will only produce a low volume, high frequency, static-like sound which comes and goes. Only solution is to unplug/replug AC power. Sometimes I will have to repeat this 2 or 3 times to get the soundbar to work. The process is: unplug the sound bar for 10 seconds, the TV audio will come on through the TV speakers. Plug soundbar back in. TV audio speakers cut out. Soundbar audio comes on briefly, then cuts out again while wifi connects. Once "wifi connected" message is done, the audio may or may not come back. If it comes back, then I'm good to go. If it doesn't, I repeat the process. A related bug is occasionally when I turn on the TV, the soundbar will switch to its digital input so there is no sound. In that case, I switch it back to "TV" with the remote and then sound. Go figure. Very frustrating. I've been working with Klipsch support and have an open ticket (opened Jan 30th). I was getting good support to try different fixes up until three weeks ago. Now nothing for 3 weeks, crickets. No response, no update. Last message was they were going to have to refer the problem to their tech team since it was "a bit of an odd one". Oh yeah, I went through the firmware update process. What a fiasco. Two USB drives and 3 hours later I had the bar updated to: MCU v99 > WIFI 1.0.151.0 > DSP 4.9 > SUR T 82 > SUR R 82 > SUR L 82 > SUB T 03 > SUB R 06 > HDMI 43 Problem is still there. My current work around is to get an extension cord so I can plug the sound bar into an outlet near my sofa so I can cycle the AC power quickly and easily (maybe I should hook it up to the Clapper! lol) What I've tried so far: new HDMI cable changed plug from outlet strip to wall outlet factory reset changed wifi from 2.4Ghz to 5Ghz firmware update all combinations of eARC, HDMI, Dolby Atmos, digital output formats on Samsung TV all possible digital output formats on Comcast cable box If I don't hear from Klipsch support soon, I'm going to contact Crutchfield about a refund/return. I'll post what happens.
  20. After seeing a few stellar reviews, I'm considering buying a pair of Klipsch RP600M II for my main listening room and pairing with a Yamaha A-S1200. Before I begin, I know there is a disparity between the price of speakers to amp, but the budget isn't there for new Forte's or Heresy's at the moment, and the used market is pretty scarce locally for the Heritage line leaving my budget options to the 5000F, 6000F II or the 600M II + sub if needed. With the custom builtin shelving unit on the wall there is an 88" wide recess, for stereo and speakers. Considering the size of the room my gut feeling is that the bookshelves is likely the way to go. I'm curious if anyone done similar pairing, and what was your experience over time? I wanted the amp for the looks and lasting build quality but now I'm more concerned with the speakers for performance. I want a fun sound, lively with some good bottom end, something that adds a little body to my favourite records and cds. (classic rock, 80's etc.). The family loves the The Fives in our living room pulling sound bar duty, and it is something we all enjoy with music and movies. Very happy with my PRO-250RPW's in our theatre room as well. Given rest of the house is Klipsch speakers, I'm considering the RP range would be a work for my music room, at least for the time being. I just don't want to buy a floorstand model if oversized and a bookshelf would suffice. Appreciate your thoughts.
  21. KevinB, what is the name of the Klipsch person you're working with? I've an online support request on klipschgroupinc dot com. After a month, I finally got routed to a person named Zach a couple of days ago who at least is familiar with using the BAR 48 5.1 at home. He suggested I replace the BAR 48 and Surround 3 speakers for the third time. Here is the list of problems I wrote to him. Items 1-3 are my main issue - if the BAR 48 5.1 is designed for and meant to use only for Surround Sound during movies, then it is worthless as I enjoy listening to 5.1 from stereo music sources far more often (which I have on my other home theater system). https://support.klipschgroupinc.com/hc/en-us/requests/46437 Zach, 1. The Surround 3 speakers are too quiet, making them useless when listening to Dolby channels and stereo music. My expectation when purchasing the BAR 48 5.1 was to be able to be immersed in sound from all sources, including stereo music CDs/MP3s. Your competitors do not have this problem (Example: my main home theater system is a Denon receiver with 7.2 Klipsch speakers, with which I enjoy being immersed in all sources of videos and music). Klipsch BAR 48 5.1 utterly fails here. 2. When watching 5.1 surround sources (such as Star Wars The Last Jedi on Amazon Prime Video) the Surround 3 speakers produce static on both channels (especially when the bass is booming), again making them annoyingly useless. Again, Klipsch fails. 3. When watching 5.1 surround sources, I have the S3 volume all the way up, but it is still too quiet. I expect "all the way up" to be too loud and I expect I should be able to set the S3 volume to my taste somewhere between the highest and lowest. Klipsch allows on +/- 9dB volume adjustment while the default is far too quiet. Default should be the current max or higher and the volume should be adjustable by at least +/- 20dB. Again, Klipsch fails. 4. The BLUETOOTH on the BAR 48 does NOT connect to any of my sources. The first BAR 48 did not have this problem. I will have to exchange it a third time in hopes of fixing this. Another Klipsch failure. Why do I bother? Klipsch speakers are the best, IMHO, and I would like your powered and electronic systems to be in that category one day. I have a home theater (Denon receiver with 7.2 Klipsch speakers) which I enjoy. I hope one day to enjoy Klipsch powered and electronic systems as much. And another thing. 5. When using HDMI and the TVs volume control, the BAR 48 volume doesn't increase/decrease in small increments like the BAR 48 buttons and BAR 48 remote control do, but by large increments, which means the volume jumps too high or low, which means I then have to use the BAR 48 remote to adjust volume. (As a comparison, I have tried another brand of soundbar and the volume control on my TV remote works exactly the same as the soundbar remote).
  22. my RSB-6 soundbar has some dents on the metal mesh, where I can buy the replacement part for it?
  23. Thinking about using a passive sound bar, Klipsch 440D, as the L/C/R for a 5.1 surround system in new house. 14x14x9 listening room with MLP about 9 ft from L/C/R. Bipolar surrounds. Hsu sub and Yamaha Aventage avr. Movies/TV about 80%. It seems that the tradeoff is L/R spacing and smaller drivers but benefiting from a relatively clean, neat front. The 20% music is mostly soft rock. I'm thinking that the 30 day return oprion gives me a chance to try it and if not happy then replace the bar with a proper L/C/R. Am I way off base with this approach ?
  24. I've recently purchased a BAR 48- It arrived at my home on Friday and I wasted no time in setting it up and enjoying it! Its basic sound profile is great (although I wish the Sub *could* deliver a bit more boom when it's cranked up than it does), and my optical and analog connections seamlessly work on it. The Bluetooth is a problem, though. I have the same issue that ebaqui details above: Although my BT capable devices can see the BAR 48 and can even "pair" with it, they cannot successfully connect to it. On my Windows PC, this simply results in my computer claiming it's connected to the BAR 48 but having no capability of playing sound over BT to it, while on my Android Smartphone (Samsung Galaxy S20 FE), I'm informed that I "need an app to use this device". That's how the BAR reacted to Bluetooth when I received it, and I can confirm that it is behaving the same way after I've installed the latest available firmware update (per Klipsch.com). This is really unfortunate and reflects poorly on Klipsch's QC process. I'm a fan of their products and love the sound profile I get out of all my Klipsch speakers, headphones, and soundbars (I upgraded to the BAR 48 from an RSB-3 soundbar that I've had for almost two years and have really enjoyed, which never had any of these BT pairing issues). It's hard to maintain enthusiasm for even a brand you've had historically great experiences with when you have multiple problems with things like this (A bit separate, but I've also had issues with my T5 True Wireless earbuds that seem to boil down to Klipsch not being able to ensure consistent quality in their manufacturing). Bluetooth may be complicated, but if the BAR 48 is truly using BT 4.1, that standard has existed for quite some time and countless consumer electronics have incorporated it without any issue. Most devices that use BT 5.0 don't exhibit any of these issues, either, despite the more advanced standard. Bluetooth has been a fact of life in the world of electronics for something like a decade, and it isn't unreasonable to expect a prestigious brand like Klipsch to competently incorporate it into their products. The fact that there are multiple topics open on this forum to the effect that customers aren't able to use the Bluetooth features on their premium audio products is disheartening. I'm planning on using a 3.5mm signal switch to gain some Bluetooth functionality by patching an Amazon Echo Dot into the 3.5 input along with my record player, so I should ultimately be able to achieve the functionality I want with minimal inconvenience. It's just a shame and a black mark on Klipsch that they're selling these defective units. I'll keep my eyes open for additional firmware updates but I'm not optimistic given how long these products have been on the market that Klipsch is really interested in addressing these problems for the relatively few of us who are experiencing them. I'd try to get the BAR 48 replaced with another, except it seems like the other customers who've tried that have ended up with similar quality issues effecting other elements of their products (such as the Wireless Sub) that work fine on my own unit. These are the types of compromises consumers shouldn't have to make when paying for premium products. Love the sound, but I'm thoroughly disappointed by this issue.
  25. Has anyone compared the new Home Theater Bar vs a 5 speaker surround system? What are your impressions? Thank you
×
×
  • Create New...