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https://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/ele/d/long-beach-klipsch-forte-pair-speakers/7751033082.html No Aff.....

no affiliation, price would be very helpful. https://www.facebook.com/SpeakerAddict/posts/pfbid021VeTmcxmjwZUubMZC2jf1AKgU5oR5cskjRaj642VmzxV5kFp36L9qL4nUjqpfU9cl

I am interested in making an investment into quality speakers for a large living room - roughly 25' x 12'. I am wondering if anyone on the forum has experience with the Heritage series Klipschorn speakers for the main channel front speakers. I would be interested to know what center and surround speakers people are using. Should I go with the reference series since they are matched? I am also a music lover and this room is the center of the house and I would love to hear quality music reproduction once again. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to respond. Sincerely, Don

Primarily intended as a local sale. 53932 Can deliver myself, meet 1/2 way, or ship most of what's on this list. Additional fees not included Most items do not have OG boxes, but do have accessories. Pics are only going to happen if you are 90% sure you are buying. Some items are currently in use. Prices are my net, not yours. Thanks for looking 👀 AVR's and Processors Denon X4400H $600 Marantz AV7703 $750 Marantz SR6012 $500 Yamaha RX-V2500 AVR $90 Amplifiers Niles SI-2125 2-channel 125W class A/B amplifier $250 Subwoofers Monolith V1 500W 12" subwoofers x2 $425 each Speakers Klipsch RP-160M Walnut $200 JBL 250Ti speaker pair in Teak (flagship) (rare) $3000 JBL 240Ti speaker pair (rare) $1500 JBL 40T3 speaker pair (Ultra Omega rare) $400 JBL 200T3 speaker pair (Ultra Omega rare) $800 JBL 20T3 speaker -2 pairs in Walnut $150 each pair JBL 20T speaker pair in Clear Oak $120 JBL 580 speaker pair in boxes $475 JBL 530 speaker pair in box $275 Revel M16 speaker pair $550 Projectors JVC X30 projector $425 Panasonic PT-RZ470UK laser projector $350 ELPLP89 Bulb New in Box (Epson UB5040-6050) $100 Screens Stewart Fimscreen and frame 100" 16:9 ST130 $300 106" 2.35:1 ST100 w/Stewart Balon' Borderless frame $500 TV's 60" Panasonic Plasma TC-P60ST60 w/box. Have 2 units $200 each Video Source Denon DVD-1920 SACD $40 Accessories Monoprice SS-Pro 8 Impedance Matching 8-Speaker Selector w/box $80 Reply Quote

is anyone having problems with connecting cinema 600 3.1 & klipsch connect app ?

New to the forums, figured now would be a good opportunity to say hi! I’m a long-time fan of Klipsch products, having started with a set of fantastic-sounding Promedia 2.1’s I bought about 15 years ago. That system has had its quirks, but I’m quite happy about just how repairable they’ve been. I was in the market to improve the sound quality from my entertainment unit, but given the size of my place and the fact I have a toddler running around, having a dedicated home theatre system wasn’t an option. To address this, I picked up a Bar 48 about a year and 8 months ago as I’m familiar with the quality of Klipsch products and knew it would produce quality sound. And produce quality sound it did… until it died. With the sound bar being 8 months out of warranty, I figured I could get it repaired. Turns out that’s not the case. Per the Klipsch support centre here in Canada, these sound bars aren’t deemed repairable. No parts available, no service manual, no schematics. Nothing. Basically, if it stops working there is literally nothing that the repair centre can do to fix it, and they advise you just buy a new one. Furthermore, the service centre told me that there’s a copious amount of glue used to hold everything together, so even if you feel inspired to take it upon your self to attempt a DIY repair, nothing will be accessible and you will cause more damage trying to fix it. Instead what I was offered was a possible trade-in credit on a new unit. I was told that I could send it in at my expense, and they would offer me a Cinema 600 for $699. To put that into perspective, retail pricing for the Cinema 600 when it goes on sale is $699, so they were offering me literally nothing for the sound bar I paid $700 for less than two years prior. Basically, I was told to pound sand. Again, I can’t stress enough that I’ve been a fan of Klipsch products, but the fact that the company made a failure-prone product unrepairable and is unwilling to try and help me out struck a chord with me. I’ve seen from multiple sources that Bar 48s not powering on is an extremely common failure mode, so hopefully this thread can help some people out by adding a ray of hope to their expensive sound bar that Klipsch says can't be fixed. So for starters, the Bar 48 is totally repairable. By removing the screws around the periphery of the back panel, the main PCB, power supply, and associated wires all slide out as a unit: The Canadian service centre mentioned that everything is glued together, and that simply is not the case. Yes, there is some hot glue on the connectors to prevent the connectors from separating if the unit is moved around or bumped, but this is a common sight with consumer electronics and can be easily removed by some careful prying away with a screwdriver. Through my testing, I found that the power supply on my unit had failed. The unit is an LPS-U101D2405L dual switching power supply, made by ETOP electronics in China. The PSU takes a 120VAC source and converts it to two separate 24VDC and 5VDC rails. The 24V rail appears to power the amplifier and speakers, while the 5V rail appears to power all the other electronics, including the control panel, LEDs on the front of the sound bar, and Bluetooth functionality. I found that when unloaded, the rails output 24V and 5V as they should, but once the Bar 48 PCB is connected to the 5V rail, output from the 5V rail drops to 2.7V. This is likely not enough voltage to power the main PCB, thus causing the no-power issue that many have experienced. I have reached out directly to ETOP (as an FYI this is not an easy thing to do!), and have confirmation that the power supply has failed. Per the spec sheet they sent me, operating voltage on the 5V rail should be 5V +/- 0.5V, so the 2.7V reading is well outside of spec, which was further confirmed by their engineering department. I’ve made arrangements to have a replacement power supply sent my way (with which to compare with my failed unit), so in the meantime I was going to try and diagnose exactly which component in the power supply failed. The goal here is to provide the Klipsch community with a low-cost option to fix your dead Bar 48s. As a disclaimer, I am not an electronics savant, but I am pretty handy with electronics and am extremely determined to fix this sound bar due to this awful customer service experience. Additionally, I was going to use this as an opportunity to learn more about power supply and voltage regulator design. So as mentioned earlier, when a load is applied to the 5V rail, output drops to 2.7V. I believe this might be related to a failed component in the 5V rail voltage regulator, which appears to have a couple of components that would be relatively easy to swap out. The first is an A12N65H MOSFET attached to a heatsink on the board. The MOSFET tested fine, but doesn’t appear to provide full continuity between the drain and source pins after the gate has been activated. Again, I’m not an electronics expert, so perhaps this is normal but I ordered a replacement MOSFET to install just in case. The second component I was going to look at was the LD7552BPS pulse-width modulation controller. I believe these are used for controlling voltage, with operating frequency set by a resistor connected to Pin #4. Maybe a resistor failed? I’m not sure! Having a second, replacement power supply handy will help me validate some of these things! The simple solution here would be to have offer a power supply replacement for these units that failed, but since those aren't available it looks like a DIY approach is the only option. Either way, stay tuned with my progress on this, as I will get my Bar 48 working again, despite Klipsch telling me there’s nothing that can be done.

Have a Sony X900H 65" TV with HDMI3 connected to a Cinema 600 sound bar. This setup has been in use since 2021 or so. Have a DirecTV HR44 DVR into the HDMI1 on the Sony TV. HDMI-CEC is enabled for everything. For the first 3 years of this setup, everything worked as it should. On the DirecTV remote which is programmed for the Sony TV when you hit volume up, the TV shows an indicator in the corner that the volume is increasing, and the sound through the Cinema 600 goes up. When you hit volume down on the DirecTV remote the volume went down. A few months ago, something changed (nothing we've done). Now when you hit volume up on the DirecTV remote, at first you see the volume begin to go up, but then it goes down, down, down and all the way down to 0 if you keep holding it in. If you hit the volume down, it also goes down. The only way to turn the volume up is to get the SONY or Klipsch remote and use this volume up controls. We instantly thought the volume toggle button on the DirecTV remote went bad since operation worked fine juggling multiple remotes. So we had DirecTV send us a brand new remote. I walked through the on screen pairing process where it detected the TV as Sony and pushed out the Sony IR command set to the new DirecTV remote. To our surprise, the same issue remains even with this new remote. Every time you try to turn the volume up with DirecTV, you see the volume initially start to go up but then it goes down. You can pulsate volume up on DirecTV remote and it just keeps going lower and lower until its completely muted at 0. Break out the Sony remote and you can turn it up. Now what I found is if I cover the IR EYE on the sound bar, this behavior doesn't happen. As long as the sound bar does not "see" the DirecTV's remote, the volume up button will definitely turn the volume up as long as you hold it - all the way to 100% if you can stand it! So I have a bit of an eyesore going on. A piece of paper colored in with a dark marker and packing tape holding it down across the sound bar. Ugly, but it fixed the problem. Does anyone know what could have happened between 2021 and 2024 that causes the Cinema 600 sound bar to interpret Sony Volume Up from a DirecTV remote as volume down, but Sony volume Up from a Sony remote as Volume up? I don't really need the IR eye but it would be nice to not have a big piece of tape on it. If I want to change inputs, I have the iPhone app or the hardware buttons on the sound bar itself.

My Cinema Grand amp is failing. It’s sending a pop/scrape sound, mostly to the Left Surround channel (but audible on all), even in standby mode. I know Flannery’s Vintage Audio is the go to on repairing these amps, but I’m a couple of months into a 4-5 month waiting list to even send it in. Then a few months after that to actually get it repaired. Does anyone have any suggestions for competent repair shops for these amps? I’ll probably wait, but it’s always good to have options. Thanks all.

Up for sale is a very nice pair of KI-396-B-SMA-II All original as they came from Hope. Very nice speakers. Pick up only in St. Louis (or meet part way??) $1,600 PM with any questions.

As referenced in the Garage Sale listing for my Cornwall IVs, this listing is for a hand-built SWL 9.0 Anniversary Edition preamp from ModWright and a hand-built Model F5 amplifier from First Watt that I originally purchased to power a factory new pair of Harbeth Super HL5 monitors, but wound up instead very briefly powering my La Scala II speakers. The preamp has the on-board Phono stage option. I did not opt for the on-board DAC option as DAC technology continually changes and improves to the point that it makes more sense to employ a separate stand-alone DAC. The ModWright preamp is tube-based and utilizes a pair of 5687 signal tubes, but can also use 7044/7119/6900 tubes as well. It has a home theater input/bypass for integrating into a Multi-Channel or Home Theater system. The Headphone Out supports headphone impedance ranging from 20 ohms to 600 ohms. ModWright Specifications: RCA inputs/outputs only (no balanced inputs/outputs) Gain: ~14dB Input Impedance: 30K ohm Output Impedance: ~800 ohm Phono stage loading options: 50 ohm, 100 ohm, 500 ohm, 1K, 47K, 100pf Phono gain: 60 dB fixed Frequency Response: 20Hz to 150kHz Weight: 28 lbs Dimensions: 17"w x 12"d x 4"h The First Watt F5 is a well-known and highly respected solid state amplifier, with this example personally hand-built by Mr. Nelson Pass. This was one of the last few F5s that were sold by First Watt with a serial number of 699. This amplifier is 25WPC, Class A and is more than sufficient for any of the Klipsch Heritage Series speakers. Specifications for this amplifier can be found at firstwatt.com. Total price for both units is $5,500 including a shipping/insurance allowance of $250 (which should cover most U.S. destinations). Both units were exclusively used with each other, and have maybe 20 total hours on them. As indicated, they are in pristine, like new condition and include original boxes/packaging and documentation. I am very OCD when it comes to my audio equipment, and I guarantee that the condition of these units is exactly as described. To address any curiosity regarding my selling these pieces, it is partly due to selling my Cornwall IVs and stepping back from this hobby for a while. Thanks for looking and please message me with any questions you may have.

Hello all, I did yet another pair in this awesome finish! The much sought after Klipsch RF-5! Adult owned and listened to in a pet and smoke free environment. Used with subs, so no low end abuse either. Refinished in a one of a kind custom stain. Much better than the boring black! All drivers are in perfect condition with absolutely no blemishes. The speaker grills are in excellent condition with both badges. The cabinets are in excellent condition with no dings, scratches, water marks, etc. and both badges. Audition upon purchase to verify everything works perfectly. I'll be happy to answer any actual questions you have about these speakers. The last set sold on eBay in February for $600, and they didn't show pictures of the drivers, so I can only assume they had damage. I will be happy to email/text you high resolution pictures. Or, you can check them out on marketplace. Yes, the $500 price is still good for members! https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/7559862620800966 Location: 60511 Big Rock, IL Price $500 for Members Price includes a bourbon tasting while you listen to them!

New to the forum. Thought I'd start a thread for the new Cinema 600 Sound Bar

I was gonna get the cinema 700 but decided I wanna go all out I've had my very simple 2.0 Vizio soundbar I got 8 ago it had a sub port and I got a free inifinity bu 120 last year and got a nice taste of home bass before it out of nowhere while not in use made a thump noise and smoked decided I wanna go all out anyone have any opinions or advice for the 1200 read many good reviews but also a concerning amount of negative ones about ranging from it bricking within a few months to a year, audio cutting out, people having to buy smart switches cause they have to unplug it many times etc I'm excited but also nervous anyone own the 1200 could you please share your experience

Good morning, I was wondering if someone can assist me please. I purchased a cinema Klipsch 600 in November of 2021 and the sound bar died on me approximately a month ago. I came across this forum online and I was very excited to see that there was a forum dedicated for klipsch. I followed the link and I have purchased the exact same power supply 24 volts 4 amps 5 volts 1 amp and follow your instructions down to the letter the green light comes on which does suggest power going to the power supply however the sound bar still is not booting up, I was wondering if someone may have an understanding as to why this is happening. Thank you guys so much.

Would folks here recommend preemptively replacing the power supply inside the cinema 600 soundbar rather than waiting for a possible failure? Can other components (audio processor electronics, etc) be damaged by the power failure (aka brownout failure)? Also, has anyone had issues with the subwoofer power supply? I have a used/refurbished cinema 600 on the way, looking to try to give it the best chance possible. I have extensive electronics repair and soldering experience. Thanks, Peter

Regarding replacing the Cinema 600 power supply with the recommended Amazon one, can anyone tell me how the 5 wires connect to the four blue connectors on the board. Already connected the black and red power cables. Thanks.

Thanks for the writeup — I used this to swap the power supply in my 600 this afternoon and it has now come back to life. Thanks to everyone who came up with this solution; after reaching out to Klipsch and being told I was out of warranty and there wasn't anything they could do I was dreading buying a new soundbar. Spending $15 on a new power supply was way better. :-)

Hello I have a Klipsch 600 cinema soundbar. The first one had the no power issue. Klipsch replaced it and in less than a year the new 600 soundbar does a loud popping sound and then sound is reduced so you can not hear it anymore. Factory reset will fix it for about 5 minutes and it does the same thing again. Contacted Klipsch and they said it is too far out of warranty to replace it. They did send a 30% coupon for a full priced item but with the average life span of a year I do not think I want to purchase another Klipsch soundbar. My question is does anybody done or have a repair for this? Is it a supply power issue on the 24 volt side? Thanks

I'm not sure if anybody follows Nascar on here. A Nascar driver, Kyle Larson has qualified 5th for this years Indy 500. It's an amazing feat, especially since he never even sat in an IndyCar until last week. He hopes to do the Indy 500 and the Nascar Coke 600 on Sunday. He drives for Hendricks Motorsports, and their personal jet will make all of this happen. There is a big chance of rain Sunday in Indy....wish him luck. He sure has brought a lot of attention to their endeavor.

I have some Heresy '1.5' model speakers for sale. $600. I am located in the DFW area, southeast Ft Worth to be more precise.

Price lowered to $600

Can I use the same power supply for a Cinema 1200 as the Bar 48? there are more wires (2 gnd-2 VCC 1 Stb then the 24v. )

I'm selling a like new pair of Beyma 15" woofers these things are beasts 4" voice-coils high power handling with usable frequency response from 30hz-4khz. I had these in my Chorus II cabinets and they are very articulate- strong bass output with a very detailed lower midrange. My plan was to go active and use DSP but never got that far. I bought these from US Speaker and after tax and shipping they cost just over $1,000. I'm asking $600 and that includes fully insured shipping to the lower 48. PP friends and family or US money order. Pictures are of the Beyma woofer next to a stock Chorus woofer for comparison. https://usspeaker.com/beyma 15P80fe-1.htm

After my second BAR 48 died, Klipsch gave me a Cinema 600. It had just become available. Unfortunately, it only lasted a few months. I was then given a Cinema 800. Search these community forums for "Cinema 800" to learn more. Both the Cinema 800 & 1200 have reliability issues too but far fewer than the BAR 48 and the Cinema 600 do. Early firmware updates were a disaster but the latest ones are stable. You should be quite happy with your Cinema 800. I am. 🙂

Does anyone have any solutions please I've read around a little and can't find anything specifically for the 1200 I've tinkered with settings on my TV and series x It just simply won't pass through 4k when hooked to the soundbar and soundbar to tv via arc