Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Tweeter'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Klipsch Announcements
    • Klipsch News
    • Klipsch Pilgrimage 2020
    • Klipsch Website & Forum Info
  • Klipsch Museum of Audio History
    • Klipsch Museum: News & Announcements
    • Ask the Historian
    • Klipsch Museum: General Discussion
  • Klipsch Audio
    • General Klipsch Info
    • 2-Channel Home Audio
    • Home Theater
    • Subwoofers
    • Architectural
    • Klipsch Pro Audio
    • Technical/Restorations
    • Headphones
    • Personal Music Systems
    • Talkin' Tubes
    • Solid State
  • The Klipsch Joint
    • Garage Sale
    • Lounge


There are no results to display.

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





My System

See My System

Website URL








  1. Klipsch Forte III Pair of Midrange drivers Pair of Tweeter Pair of Crossover network. Price $250 Carefully remove from Forte III during the upgrade to IVs They were excellent shape and excellent functioning. Local Pick up 91042 Tujunga
  2. Extra set of original Klipsch K-77 horn tweeters that came with a pair of 1976 Klipschorns I purchased earlier this year. $175+ shipping/fees.
  3. Brand new (and currently unavailable, as they are on back-order... like everything else these days!) This has very small blemishes on the face plate due to slight rubbing during shipping. This does not effect the sound. It tests perfectly, as it is brand new. I will include another face-plate that has a perfect front if you want to swap it out. This is a wonderful sounding tweeter. There is a ton of info online about it. SPECIFICATIONS Frequency Range 1k - 20kHz Free Air Resonance 600Hz Nominal Impedance 6 ohms DC Resistance 4.5 ohms Voice Coil Diameter 25 mm Max Power 100 watts Sensitivity 94 db Face plate size 3.925" Face plate depth .2" Asking $50 for local pickup in the burbs of Chicago 60511 $65 for shipping
  4. The tweeter of 1 of my floorstanding speakers Klipsch Icon KF-26 (Purchased in 2015) has gone bad. I needed advice and inputs on a replacement tweeter. Where can I find a replacement for it? Should I be replacing the tweeter of both the towers? Would appreciate any inputs/suggestions.
  5. Just got two brand new RP-260F along with a Anthem MRX520 amp. Received the Klipsch sub and center speaker a couple days ago. We hooked up just the sub and two towers and prepared to be blown away by incredible sound. I queued up Steely Dan and hit play. Ah....the music was horrible. No highs. Nothing from the tweeters. Checked and double checked all obvious things. Polarity, inputs, sound settings, nothing. Changed speaker wire gauge (16). Finally we unboxed the Klipsch center speaker and all frequencies were heard and it sounded incredible. How can this happen? Two brand new speakers and both tweeters are out? Does not seem possible. I'm hoping that although I am not new to home audio, I am overlooking something very simple with these speakers. If both tweeters are out I will have to consider returning the entire Klipsch set up and move on to another brand. On a side note, when unboxing the subwoofer there was a loud rattle in the cabinet. Once out of the box and bag and after a little shaking around, a corner support from inside the cabinet came sliding out of the front port of the sub. WTF? Glue is on the support piece but apparently it was not secured well enough since it has been bouncing around in the cabinet for lord knows how long. I'll send that back simply because the cabinet's integrity is compromised but the 260's? I need to understand what I can do different to test these tweeters. We've been looking forward to this audio upgrade in our home for months and this is so disappointing it makes the wife and I quite upset. Suggestions?
  6. Hello all, I recently picked up a pair of 83' Heresy's that rock. However one of the tweeters is completely silent. I pulled open the back and all the connections look good. In your experience is this a tweeter issue or something farther down stream like the power supply. I see k-77 tweeters go for 160 a pair on Crites-Speaks. Thank you
  7. Hello Klipsch audio community, this is my first post here - actually I made an account specifically to ask about this topic, which has been mystifying me. I pick up multimedia speakers at my local thrift stores quite frequently, and Klipsch ProMedia speakers are a common sight (people seem to get rid of them because the pots on the control pods go bad). Usually I end up with a large number of ProMedia satellites with an odd mixture of subs and control pods, so I mix and match until I end up with complete systems, which isn't very difficult. I quickly noticed, however, that there seem to be a noticeable difference in tonality between some of the satellites - and the differences are often split between satellites from entire sets (for example, the 4 satellites I picked up from a ProMedia 4.1 set sounds noticeably brighter and louder than the satellites I found from an old ProMedia 2.1 set from the early 2000's). I know that companies often do iterative updates to their products' internal components, and I wanted a way to be able to identify the different satellite revision(s) so I can match them properly when I put together systems. After finding absolutely no cosmetic differences in the satellites' exterior, I decided to open them up... and what I discovered was a bit, well, surprising. In the photo attached below, you can see two satellites right next to each other. They look identical on the outside. Opening the first satellite, one can see a circuit board to handle the crossover. It appears to contain a capacitor, a resistor, and an inductor, pretty standard affairs for a crossover circuitry. Opening the second satellite, one finds that the entire circuit board to be missing. In its place is a single bipolar capacitor, manufactured by Bennic. My guess is that the first satellite is in fact the older version, because the circuit board is screwed onto two plastic mounts that, in the second satellite, are still present but unused. When I first started researching the topic, I came across an old discussion about the ProMedia 4.1, which was stated to have "improved crossover frequencies". Coincidentally, the first time I noticed the tonal differences in the satellites, it were ones from a ProMedia 4.1 system (containing the second version, with the single capacitor). I currently have 18 ProMedia satellite speakers on hand. I have opened up every single one, and found that 12 of them were of the second iteration, while only 6 were of the original configuration. So the "new" version has been around for a long while. I am not an electrical engineer, but a quick read on how crossover circuits work showed that inductors act as low pass filters (becoming more reactive as frequency increases), while capacitors act as high pass filters. The fact that the inductor and its companion resistor are absent in the "new" revision of the satellites likely means that the full-range driver is receiving the full spectrum of audio signal (minus whatever LFE that's sent to the subwoofer by the filter in the amp module), including everything that's meant for the tweeter. This may explain why these satellites sound somewhat brighter (I am assuming the full-range driver can reproduce at least some of the treble frequencies), as well as louder (less components in the signal path, less resistance). Now.. I know audio companies spend a lot of money on R&D, so I am not accusing Klipsch of cutting corners or anything like that. My main question is... which satellite version actually perform objectively better? I do not have any instruments to measure frequency responses, but may be someone can look into this? And a question for Klipsch: What is the reason behind this internal change? Do the new satellites still perform up to THX specifications?
  8. Hello fellow Klipsch fans. Recently there was a nasty power surge in my area and, unluckily, my receiver happened to be plugged straight into the outlet the day it happened. Since then, whenever a sound hits a certain pitch, there's this harsh crackly noise. I thought it may have been the content I was playing, but I've tested other disks/media and it persisted (so long as it was the right pitch or tone). Then I considered it was my receiver, so I tried an older one, but it wasn't that either. It looks like it's my speakers. I haven't tested (or noticed anything wrong with) the sides or rears yet. But my two fronts (RF 7II) and center (RC-64II) have the issue. It seems to be coming from the tweeter and I haven't noticed anything else wrong with the speakers but this. I recorded the problem and the wav should be listenable here. In the clip (there's a piece of paper being torn in the scene, ignore that) the harsh clipping/crackling noise is evident multiple times throughout. It's even more pronounced on my normal receiver (x6400h), maybe because it drives more power to the speakers. I love these speakers. They're the life of my entertainment. Is there anything I can do to fix them? Or any sort of troubleshooting I can do to determine if they are fixable? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  9. Hello, I have KG 3.5 and KG 3.2 that I'm restoring. It's been convenient since these share the same crossovers and drivers. While troubleshooting a lack of treble in one of the 3.5's I swapped out the tweeter with one from the 3.2's and found the K-84 tweeter looked different, having 3 metal tabs. Anyone know what the difference is? The 3-tab version is also measuring open on the ohm meter, so they may be blown anyway. Thank you!
  10. Looking to purchase a working, good sounding K9K woofer for my KG2's. I picked the pair up for free from a friend and they have been my first speaker restoration project. One of 'em has developed a persistent buzzing, though, especially in the lower frequencies, hence my WTB. I'd be interested in any other spare KG2 parts as well, but mainly looking for the K9K. Thanks!
  11. I have a non-functioning K-77 tweeter (SN- 123663) that I'd like to give to someone that could either repair it, or use it in a display of some sort. It appears in good condition, but does not function when hooked up to an amplifier. Just contact me via email (davidspikes@hotmail.com) and tell me how you plan on using this item. Please include your contact information (phone number and email address). All I ask is that you pay for the shipping. I have an Electro-Voice tweeter, model T-35, in the same condition...Looks fine, but doesn't work. I'd be happy to include this tweeter, as well. So, if you're willing to work on these, or just display them, let me know... I look forward to hearing from you soon.
  12. I recently picked up a pair of kg4 speakers and one of the horns is not working. When I switched the non-working horn into the working side it's still made no sound at all. When I took the working side horn and swapped it into the non-working side it began to play music perfectly. So I know it's not the wiring. What my question is does this mean the horn Tweeter is blown or does it mean it just needs a new diaphragm. I connected the k74 horn to a multimeter and got zero reading again not sure if this means new diaphragm or new complete horn? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
  13. I had asked this question some time back when I thought I had KG2.2s with phenolic cone tweeters (don't ask.... Now that my brain is back in operation and I know I have KG2.5s with a polymer tweeter.... Curious if anyone has any insight as to whether it makes sense to move to a titanium tweeter (as in a Crites replacement). Would the highs be "sweeter" or have more clarity? Is it even worth it for these speakers? BTW - I recently replaced the caps in my x-over, fwiw Thx in advance.....
  14. Superelliptical tractrix horn for tweeter - a.k.a small rain from a big cloud. Why a.k.a. It took me several years to actually implement this idea and originally I was planing it for 400Hz horn. I started to think about it in Forte days, I was planing to build some external mid/high horn for fun. Then as replacement horn for La Scala. Original material suppose to be something else. Don't know English name but I was planing it as cast made of polymer resin with mineral filler. Friend of mine was doing round horns with it and I really liked the product. So as I said got idea maybe 5 or more years ago, I did math, CAD project and laid it into a drawer for a long time. Doing large horns is really challenging. Inspired by Dave A work on tweeters I thought why not try something much smaller fist. So I ended with small solid beech wood tweeter horn instead of huge cast resin one. OK so why Superellipse? It's fun curve. Special cases of this curve are circle, ellipsis and in the end rectangle. By manipulating basic curve parameters we can do smooth transition from circle to rectangle or in this specific case rectangle with rounded corners and all the way be compliant with Tractrix horn flare. Why to bother when we have elliptical horns? Because using same front area we can make horn with lower cut of frequency without having any sharp edges on wave path. So basically join elliptical and rectangle horn strong points. Of course it's not always desirable to have lowest cut of freq but in this case math looked good. I have created parameterized xls sheet witch which I can control how transition from circular throat changes to semi rectangular mouth. Horn is calculated for 1544Hz and has good loading from 4147Hz (strange tails but I was shooting for particular mouth size) For this particular horn for half of length it goes smoothly from circle to ellipsis and then shape starts to be more rectangular. But this is fluent and I could make it almost rect from the beginning. From math I did FreeCAD project (or actually my xls almost generates it). Then I had to find someone who will make wooden prototype. It's not so easy to find someone who wants to play with such "large", 4 items, orders, but finally I did. As always with prototype not everything is 100% correct so cut off is probably bit higher but as proof of concept it went well. I stained it little bit and painted with semigloss lacquer I decided to use B&C DE120 for it. Guess I was not reading too carefully because to use it I needed to scrap some wood from top hat to fit drivers magnet. I did some measurements to compare K77 square, K77 round in original horns and DE120 to mine. Looks fine. Green is round, red is square, blue is DE120. Don't pay attention for reference level, my mike has +3 or more dBa from 16kHz but as reference to other K77 measurements it's fine. Currently my system plays better then ever. Unfortunately I cannot say it's all because of horn/tweeter change. At the same same I went from passive to fully active system. So currently I'm using active digital crossover (Najda DSP) with 6 channel Rotel amp. Additionally to normal crossover points I did full time delay alignment for all drivers. With everything changed I really love to listen live recordings. For good realizations it sometimes gives me an illusion of being actually there at time of a concert. Now it's time for bass extension with La Scala bass reflex mod
  15. Klipsch horn tweeter model K-71-H Fits KG2 speakers and maybe some other models. Works great. It has a few tiny dimples (see the picture) but works fine. $20 gets it (shipped Con US)
  16. I found a pair of CF3s, version 1 on shopgoodwill.com. When I hooked them up I found that one of the tweeters crackles at any dB level. I pulled the horn out and detached the driver but couldn’t tell anything from looking at it. The diaphragm looked good and I couldn’t see any damage to the cone, though it is really hard to see anything. Any thoughts? Any way to fix or replace it? This is my first foray into Klipsch and high quality audio so your help is appreciated
  17. Hello to any & all, My first post... Can anyone assist me with some specs on the high frequency driver from a RSX speaker? Numbers: K-153NV / 1000520, #8028 0712. I got a pair off ebay for my older RF-25 cabinets. Perfect fit (needed slightly longer screws however), my ears are very pleased, can't balk at the Ti!, ..i'm curious how the numbers compare to the K-130-DN, mainly in terms of intended crossover point and power rating. Also, does anyone have any words of wisdom on a part number 1012311?? What would it have come out of etc?? Thank you in advance, David in Tx
  18. Anyone have any laying around they can part with? I will take either type(L-pad or transformer)for now. Just need to knock down some JBL 2404H to see if they will work once levels are matched. Then I will go from there. Thanks.
  19. Hello Everyone: Just joined today because of a problem that i hope someone can help me with.1 Tweeter in my Klipsch LaScala is not working,i am the 2nd owner and i have have them about 10 years no problems until now.Is there any repair places to send it to to make sure it is the speaker itself,solder problems? Could it be the crossover? Need some help please.Not really an electrician,just love the sound when all is well..Thanks Mark
  20. 4 working k78 drivers. These are basically k77 drivers with 16 ohm impedance. These are two matched pairs. Seem to work as intended. $140 plus shipping. These do not weigh much and I would estimate something like $20
  21. I am repairing a built in home stereo system that uses Frazier speakers in every room. Each speaker is a 12 x 12 x 16 cabinet with an 8" woofer and a 5 x 7 tweeter. The tweeters are the black bell type with alnico magnetics. The tweeters are blown in at least 2 of 12 tweeters, and there are at least a couple more. Knowing that there is a lot of common driver parts between Klipsch and Frazier, I am posting my questions here and in the Frazier sites. Checking the internet I cannot find any diaphragm replacement kits. Are there any available? Next option is I have found some 5 X 7 Frazier replacement tweeter assemblies at a decent price, but the magnetic arrangement is different. Instead of the tall small diameter alnico style magnet under a plastic cup, it has a short large diameter magnetic and no cup. The tweeters are marked on the back with: Frazier F-3x7 N4850-F 114850-F U.S.PAT. 3,898,393 Are these equivalent specs? And what are the differences? Thanks in advance
  22. Hi, I'm looking for a pair of either K-75-K, K-79-K or K-792-KP tweeter drivers. The magnets, not the diaphragms. Greetings, Laszlo Folgerts from the Netherlands
  23. 4 new replacement compression drivers for K77 driver. Requires adapter to fit some mounts. [Specs available on the net] $100 for the set.
  24. Hello everybody, this is my first topic and I'm glad to partecipate at this forum. I'm owner of a fantastic pair of Heresy I (1976), with k-22 woofer, k55-V mid e k22. tweet. To improve the acoustic of my room, I record the frequency response of a single speaker with a calibrated microphone (i use REW). What I see is an elevatate distorsion of 2nd order between 3000hz e 6000hz. You can see it the graph below. It is common in both the speaker. So I switch with another amplifier, but the problem persist. The measurement is near the speaker (70 cm), so i can exclude the ambience problem. In the listening I perceive marked sibilant. I think that is a problem of my speakers, but perhaps it is a common situation in Heresy I. Has anyone tried to measure the distorsion? Second, if the problem is finite to my speakers, which is the cause? In the capacitor of the crossover (It is a type D converted to Type E)? In the gasket of the speaker? I don't know. Can anyone help me? Thank you in advance
  25. I'm using these speakers on my desk with SMSL A2 amp. I'm getting a hiss out of the tweeters that is a bit too loud for my taste, because it gets annoying during quiet night time. It does not get louder when I turn up the volume, it remains a steady low volume hiss that becomes unnoticeable when I increase music volume.The hiss is there when nothing is playing and when anything is playing. It's also there even when I disconnected any input signal. As soon as I turn on the amp, the hiss starts. I've got conflicting advice about what could be causing this, so I decided to come here. Some said these speakers are very sensitive and make the amp's noise floor more noticeable, others said the amp is defective. I'm using 14 gauge oxygen free copper wire with banana plugs. Anybody else getting hiss? What could be causing it?
  • Create New...