Guest David H Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Installing a back should have no effect on the performance, but will keep casts, dogs, mice out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 The 13 ply seems pretty good, and I am using pocket hole joints, clamp it them glue it and screw it, even, flush and square. Where did you get 13 ply? I did find a place here in Chattanooga for 9 ply, but I haven't priced it yet. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Believe it or not, found it right in my own back yard, North Ga Hardwoods in Cleveland, GA. Baltic Birch 3/4" , 60" x 60" sheets was $45 each. So far, I have managed to made sawdust out of 6 sheets for the Cornscala's. Should finish up the wood cutting and fitting to day, if it's not too cold. Will try to get some more pictures today CB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Important tip" do not, I say again, do not get gorilla glue in your beard. It foams there also. Dummy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REN Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 that is the same wood i used for mine [Y] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Well I have some more pictures to post. I have been making some pretty good headway, although it have been damp, cold, raining. I have all the detail sanding completed on the bass bins and the HF cabinets. Today I completed the cutouts for the HF cabinets, have to do a little sanding on them and their ready to paint as is the motor boards for the bass bins. Once that is done I'll be ready to start assembly of the speaker components, I will take then in the house to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Michael, I don't care what you say, this shop ani't big enough. I keep running into myself, and the sawdust keep burying all the toys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 I'm using the Beyma tweeter, the only thing I'm not sure of is, do you have to recess this by 1/8" or can you just mount to the moter board, keep in mind I do not haave a CNC machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Just some other shots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 I love it when a plan comes together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Well at this point I have used 6 sheets of the plywood, these things will be big and heavy, but they will not fall apart. More to come.....Later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Nice. Looks like you're getting real close -- I better get busy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Important tip" do not, I say again, do not get gorilla glue in your beard. It foams there also. Dummy! I think that you need to be more careful when you eat it. Try taking smaller bites and you probably won't get any in your beard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 You know, it's not really that bad when you chase it with about 4 oz. heat lock. While we are on the subject and thinking about the veneering part of this project, I would like to get some opinions from some of you guys who have had some experience in this area. Keep in mind that I have never veneered anything, I do not have vacuum press, bag or any other of that neet stuff. If necessary I will but a iron, don't know what else I would use it for except for heat lock glue. From what I have read on Joe the Woodworker, use paper backed veneer, the Heat Lock glue would work pretty good. The veneer, it's a toss up, I really like the quartersawn teak, but I understand that there may be problems when appling the final finish (too much oil and resin in the wood), next choice woukd be the ribbon stripe mahogany. So far, things have gone pretty good, all the boxes are square, really haven't screwed anything up and still have all my fingers., I would like to get any comments, recommendation, suggestions of what I'm doing. It's too cold out today to do much, can't glue, could bring the motor boards in the house to paint but it makes the cats puke. A day of rest and to reflect on what I have done thus far. Randy, has another thread going on a Cornscala build, and I don't want to clutter it up with my junk. He's got some pretty good stuff going. Looking to hear from you. CB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Looking great!!! You might be able to overcome the oil in the teak issue by wiping down with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner a couple times before oiling. I have a reference book at home and I'll see what they say later on today for you. At least you did not glue your beard to the cabinet..... I knocked a small cup of contact cement off the workbench and on my head a couple years ago.... Talk about a skinhead haircut!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Preliminary network design for this speaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 only a 6 db slope on the woofie? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Without sending the whole speaker to someone who can make careful measurements, it's best to keep it simple -- which in my experience usually ends up sounding better anyways. It's only first order electrically. In the room (power response), the woofer will start rolling off at 12dB/octave between 600 and 700Hz. Because of this and some other factors, polarity might have to be reversed on the 902 for it to sum flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted February 20, 2009 Author Share Posted February 20, 2009 I'm thinking about what type of speaker terminations to use for the speaker to crossover connections; The woofer has the basic push on type, what parts express call the express crimp solderless terminals, $3.00/ 50. The driver for the horns has a push type connection that I guess you use a pin connection. The tweeter has the same as the woofer. I am assuming the everything on the crossover will be a spade connection. The question being, is there any better quality terminations of there, or does it really make a difference? I'm not saying that I want to pay a ton of money for these but with the time, effort, and money already invested, I don't want this to be the weak link. If anyone has some suggestion or recommendation of what to use and where to get them, it would be surely appreciated Thanks CB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 With push terminals I prefer bare wire, and that's what I suggest to people. A pin type connection is going to have less contact area, and since you have to crimp or solder it on -- it basically means two connection points as opposed to the one if you just feed the bare wire into the hole. Also, bare wire is soft and will spread out from the pressure applied from the spring in the terminal, which means a better connection. For the woofer, I would avoid the gold plated stuff. I like Panduit. Crimps are fine if properly done with a good quality crimper. Link below to what I would use -- verify the width with BEC. http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvz8LftK4jerl9Q3Fgjq9Fmede0jaenntY%3d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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