Utility trailer experiences

[colterphoto1]

I'm in the market for a 5x8 covered trailer for PA use. Does anyone here have experience as to what to shop for or have one for sale? Prefer drop down ramp or double back doors- no side door please. Must be suitable for 2500 pounds plus with good tires.

[dtel]

Just some ideas, ( OK a bunch) go look at some trailers in person, 5x8 is small. A double axle trailer makes it much more stable when loading if not connected and you don't have to worry as much about balancing the load to not have to much tung load. Most double axle trailers start at #5500 load and usually are built a littler heaver. A 1/2 truck like yours can easily pull a 6x10 or 6x12 trailer. Another thing is if you really want to be safe electric brakes are very handy when someone pulls out in front of you and you have to stop in a hurry.

I don't mean to keep piling it on but that side door you don't want is very handy for loading big things, you don't have to crawl over everything to get out and makes it easy to get to the little stuff that can be put in the front of the trailer, don't worry about security most of those side doors are at least as safe as the back doors.

I have been looking at them for a while now it's the only reason I say all of this. I was looking at a 6x12 with the V front for less drag while pulling.

Trailers are like garages you will always wish you had one a little bigger. []

[colterphoto1]

Good ideas, there is a 5x8 available, and it'll hold my current system of two KP682 subs, four KP362 tops, monitors, amps, processing, some lighting etc. I can put smaller things in the back of my covered full sized truck bed in the event I need to carry double subs one day.

I will check the load dimensions for the KP600 system, which is what I would like to be able to carry. The 6 foot width may be the thing there. It'll always be attached to truck when loading/unloading so dual tires no big deal really. I think the rolling resistance and ease of backing is much worse, isn't it?

Brakes, check. Karl has them and highly suggests them too.

The secondary door is a security risk. We already want to install bolts through the door to steel plates and hinge guard/locks. These trailers get broken into a lot and I'll take every precaution. Besides it's all so heavy that it needs to roll down the ramp in the back.

Thanks Eldon!

Michael

[bhendrix]

Hi Michael,

I heartily agree with Eldon's wise counsel. I have pulled the 6 x 12 dual axle with my Suburban with no problems.

Brakes are a must.

Dual axle much better if you have a blow out on the trailer and easier for weight distribution. Backing up not really a problem.

6' ( or 7' ) provides room to get your hands in the handles on the side of KP-600 cabs.

Side door very handy. Rear door ramp is preferred for rolling gear in and out. Cargo doors not good.

As a side benefit, you can rent the trailer to Mark and Trey to tow their Harleys. []

[dtel]

I was looking at the 6' wide because of the MWM's, I eventually plan to take them out and let them play, like parties or the beach or park ?

Right now I use a car battery, T-amp and portable Cd player and they sound good and surprisingly loud for what powers them. Pull up, pull them out connect battery and let it rip, couldn't be easier no power needed. [Y].....Now it's not the kind of rig both of you use but will run circles around anything else battery powered or any car boom box.

How you been doing Mr Bill.

[colterphoto1]

MCM system is just not road worthy. This needs to be mainly for a system I can set up by myself. KP600 will get an assistant.

Side door is massive security risk, besides there's nothing you could really load/unload from it that won't go out the back. Karl uses dual doors in back so he can open it up in his garage easily, then he has a tri-fold aluminum ramp that sets up easily and you can take the ramp and use it in the hall if need be! Ramp door takes quite a bit of space and is not portable.

I'm not sure of how capable my old pickup would be with a really large trailer. Our emphasis is on low distortion, setup speed, light weight. Karl uses some dual 12" horn loaded subs that are just astounding. I may build a four-pack of them so we have nearly matching systems. That way they could be more easily integrated into one for larger events.

Should not need to grasp handles of KP600- everything must ROLL out of the trailer. 6' might allow two stacks lengthwise side by side however which would be a good thing. mid/highs would be stacked together for placement on stage wings. Subs would be stacked for dollies, then left like that or unstacked in front of stage.

[michael hurd]

My 2 cents: I would go with a dual axle trailer, you can get them with twin 2500 or twin 3500 # axles up here. Torflex ( torsion ) axles offer a much lower load in height, and are relatively decent in terms of longevity. Dual spring suspension with an equalizer is less desirable for your needs, it puts the trailer deck higher than if you have a torsion axle.

If you can find a 6 x 10 or 6 x 12, you may be futher ahead to go that route. Rolling resistance is a moot point, and your truck will certainly drag that around just fine. The longer the trailer, the easier it is to back up as well.

There are different types of braking systems, the most common being electric. Also available ( mainly on heavier units ) is a hydraulic surge braking system. This uses a tongue that has a moveable section up front, and a hydraulic master cylinder. The heavier the load, and the faster the towing vehicle stops, the more pressure is applied to the wheel brakes on the trailer.

While the surge brakes work well, it's overkill for the intended application.

Make sure the trailer has some sort of tie down apparatus, or e-tracking in the wall posts. Otherwise, you may be looking to find an overcenter load bar ( like used in commercial vehicles ) for load containment.

Lighting: Interior lighting is a definate plus, for cheap to no budget, you could stick up a few of those round LED battery powered pucks.

[dtel]

Your right there is no way for one person to handle some of that big stuff you would hurt yourself. Just incorporate some way to tie things off inside if they will stay on wheels so nothing shifts or an easy way to get them on and off dollies. All that big stuff gets heavy real fast when moving a lot of it, and it's much heaver putting it back in the trailer at the end of a day.

A few of the cheap plastic tarps and some of the rubber straps would be a good idea to keep in the trailer in case the weather turns bad and you don't or can't get everything back in the trailer in time. That's where a little extra space could come in handy, also a tool box with all your handy repair and miscellaneous Roadie stuff ? Maby even a nice dollie/handtruck to roll stuff across grass or through doors or what ever you have to to get where you will set up.....just guessing you just can't grab and walk with even some of the small stuff, might as well work smart you " ant no spring chicken anymore " . []

I better stop or you will need an 18 wheeler ! [:|]

[theplummer]

As far as brand of trailers, I found that Southwest Expressline was the most durable, and most in-expensive. Can't say for sure anymore, as United Trailers has bought them out.

Look for a trailer frame that's built on a 2X6 Boxed tubing, not 2x3 or 2X4, Those flex and twist too much to keep load stable. Also, I agree about the ramp door, be prepared to add up to $600.00 for that one.

I agree about including the side door, you'll wish you had one eventually. Make sure the there is at least 2 feet of room from the front of the interior of the trailer to the opening of the door, as you'll eventually want to build a work bench and storage shelves across the front. This lay's out better for that.

As far as locking hasps, the ramp door will have to have the High security, break over latch system, have them install that on the side door also, then get the round Abus Discus locks, along with a Hitch lock that also accepts the Abus Discus locks. They can not be cut off short of a cutting torch, if they are compromised, they still have to be cut on both sides of the hinge pin, or the lock latch has to be cut off altogether. You can purchase these locks keyed all alike, I think a box of 8 cost me about $40.00 5 years ago. I've never been broken into, or even attempted to be. I've used on on my Harley for years and never had anyone even try there also. My dad has owned a car wash for over 30 years, It's been broken into steadily several times a year, until he installed the Abus Discus about 18 years ago, to this day, no one has sucessfully entered any of his coin boxes using the Abus locks, they don't even try anymore.

As far as axle's goes, definately get the Dual axel, and have them put brakes on Both axle's, not just one. Electric brakes are fine, but brake controller's can be tricky, I like the surge style brakes,with a master cylinder on the hitch for two reasons, you can use any truck to pull it with, not just one with a brake controller, and they apply a even amount of braking at the same time you do, some electric brake controller's have a timer that applies brakes and to what degree their applied, panic stops can be dangerous with that style of controller, use one with a pendulem applier to help with panic stops, if you go electric. Downside to surge brakes is that under some conditions like backing up a hill, the master cylinder has to be manually disabled to allow you to back up without the brakes locking up on you.

I've found that the 3500 lb. torsion style axle's have the BEST ride, if your not hauling more than 7000 lbs, total weight, I bent an axle with a weight of 9000 lbs. I upgraded to 5400 lb. axle's and now the trailer is bouncy, and things don't stay where I put them.

I have my trailers equipped with run away protection, that's a small lead hooked to your truck with the safety chains, if the trailer ever gets away from the truck, it applies the brakes and stops it immediately, maybe save someone's life, not to mention your equipment (I think this is only available with electric brakes). I also get my trailers equipped with a marine battery mounted on the tongue and interior lights installed, while your pulling the trailer, with an RV style plug, your truck's alternator will charge the battery, and you'll have interior lights all the time, Very handy. They even make a roof vent that has a really good light system, and a vent fan installed. They don't leak usually, but you do have to remember to keep it closed when traveling, or in the rain.

If you don't understand what I've explained, maybe I can take pics and post them on any items you are confused about, I can also give you some tips on building light weight, heavy duty shelving in the trailer once you own one.

P.S. you might want to have the adjustable motorcycle hold down rails installed in the floor and on the sides, so you can use ratchet straps to keep things secure.

I also see that you can get a Translucent roof, That's cool.

As far as length, you'll always want one a little longer than you have. I've found 16 feet long X 8 feet wide seems to be the most versatile and comfortable to drive, back, and wide enough to store about anything. A seven foot wide trailer has full size fenders mounted outside the trailer, it's still just as wide as a eight footer, so you don't get a brake on drivability, actually you'll be prone to rip the fenders off the trailer cause you won't think about the wheels hanging out the sides of it. The eight foot trailer has half a fender (about 4 inches) on the outside of the trailer, and about a 3 inch fender on the inside. Your mirror's are still usable with the eight foot wide trailer also, the 8 1/2 foot trailer has all the fender built inside the trailer, and is a real bear to see around with mirrors. I recommend getting the 8 foot wide model. Also, if you build storage shelving inside the trailer, you can build 24" deep shelves on both sides and still have a 42" wide walk way down the center, and for more storage.

[theplummer]

Here's the style of Hitch lock and Abus Discus lock I was talking about

http://www.horse.com/Trailer-Coupler-Lock-Bumper-Pull-BRL05.html?scode=hnextag&mr:referralID=bd8a0843-6a13-11de-a563-000423bb4e95

[colterphoto1]

The key to proper loading is to establish standard sizes for dollies and work with that. Most of my stuff is either 24", 30", or 36" dimensions, so the cargo will interlock given and appropriate sized trailer and load order. Anvil or Star cases or handmade 'wheel tray' dollies for speaker cabinets will do all the work to protect the gear. Tie-downs slow down loading quite a bit and the rails gouge into gear. Karl just lined his with commercial carpeting which works very nicely.

Lighting is a must, simple system with switch near door will do fine. I have a good two wheel cart with pneumatic wheels.

For economy I need to probably buy used this first time out, so custom ordering is not an option. Roadie-ing pays about $250 a show these days for entry level. (yup, that's me).

[picky]

Michael: I like some of the trailers Wells Cargo makes. Maybe they have one you will like?

http://www.wellscargo.com/ -Glenn

[theplummer]

Tie-downs slow down loading quite a bit and the rails gouge into gear. Karl just lined his with commercial carpeting which works very nicely.

I would think you'd want some way to secure the back of the load once everything is loaded and locked in, to keep things from falling down, that's where the E-channel would come in handy.

Lighting is a must, simple system with switch near door will do fine. I have a good two wheel cart with pneumatic wheels.

For economy I need to probably buy used this first time out, so custom ordering is not an option. Roadie-ing pays about $250 a show these days for entry level. (yup, that's me).

I'm with ya on used first. I was hoping to give you a "Wish" list and hopefully you can narrow your search and get as many options as possible with used. Right now used trailers are plentiful, as the construction market is down. Should be able to pick one up, though the ramp door is going to be the hardest to find in that catagory. Those are usually for automotive or racing applications.

[jacksonbart]

Go to UHAUL with a gag credit card, rent a trailer and never return. You should probably paint it as well.

[Daddy Dee]

Actually a painted Uhaul trailer is a magnet for arrest. They are easily identifiable because of the familiar design lines.

Uhaul NEVER sells a trailer. Unlike trucks, retired trailers are chopped up for scrap.

[BEC]

Michael,

As a person who sells utitlty trailers, let me give you this option to consider. Buy a new 12, 14, or 16 ft. standard tandem axle utitity trailer with brake axle. Price around $1500.00 around here. Then have a metal box built to set on the trailer. Around $1000.00 around here. Then you can remove the box and use as a standard trailer or use with the box like an enclosed trailer.

Bob Crites

[Daddy Dee]

Bob,

That is most interesting.

Michael,

Sounds like you are planning well for what gear you need to move. One thought of caution, though, there is an adjunct to murphy's law that is something about later always needing more space than you can imagine. I have to allow for that big time. But that could be just me. You are a well seasoned roadie and know what you need.

Exciting project. Looking forward to seeing pics.

[Professor Thump]

Uhaul NEVER sells a trailer. Unlike trucks, retired trailers are chopped up for scrap.

Sounds like first hand experience to me.... Just kidding![^o)]

Michael,

I know you feel like you are getting feature creep but here are some things from my experience.

1. It is easy to go bigger. They are not much more cost and you can always load that extra gig gear if needed. Hauling two runs is less cost effective, so I would go a little bigger than you think.

2. I agree on the tandem axils. Better stability for pack balance more payload. The biggest one is blow outs. I had a blow out on a 16' and It was bad enough. I would have had a mess with a single axil. You have too much money in gear not to keep this in mind.

3. Lighting or at least a fiberglass top is very helpful for seeing in the way down back.

4. Don't skimp on a ramp. I had a longer narrower ramp that I made. 2 x 6" 10 ' long. I used every inch of it. Sometimes you wanted to load up or load over an obstacle. The longer the better which will give you a good grade to the ramp.

5. Sway bars with a Class C or D hitch. You have enough weight now that you want the sway bar. This make driving 3 times easier and pack balance is even less of an issue because you can load the tongue higher in percentage. This weight actually gets destributed to your axils on your tow vehicle. So stability is better and it stays down the middle of the lane instead of all over it.

This is a big step but you won't loose your money. If you are buying used you can get your money back. Camping trailers are real cheap now. You can probably get one next to free. I wonder if any of them could be modified so you had a sweet trailer with a sleeper and kitchenette. There I go again....dreaming.

[BLSamuel]

Should not need to grasp handles of KP600- everything must ROLL out of the traile

Got the KP600 system ready to roll? Can't wait to hear it.

Michael's current trailer packs up pretty well from the couple of times I've helped him. The dual 18" 682 (?) subs with built in wheels roll well and are pretty maneuverable. Now if that ID10T that was helping him would learn to folld up cables correctly.... (spaghetti [:$])

[Marvel]

Uhaul NEVER sells a trailer. Unlike trucks, retired trailers are chopped up for scrap.

Could'a fooled me... I've seen them on the road many times, with a bad paint job over them. You don't think they were stolen do you?

Bruce