Oiled with what?

[jhoak]

When you see OO or WO we're talking oiled oak or oiled walnut but oiled with what? Olive oil? Canolla oil? Motor oil? What weight? Crude oil?

Enlighten me please?

[SilverSport]

I got this from our own Dr. Bill and it has worked for me...

Thanks to Dr. Bill's recipe'...I just oiled all my speakers...nice
little work out...so much work (teasin') that I am a little light
headed...perhaps that's just the recipe' talkin'...I oiled 4 Heresys, 1
Academy center, 2 Klipschorns and a dining room server and the walnut
case for my McIntosh MAC1900...easy as the Dr. says...soaked right in
and after a light wipe with a clean cotton rag, ready for another
year...

*remember*

BLO heats up as it dries so any rags and
whatnot should be thouroughly washed with water and soap and disposed
of safely...preferrably outside...

the Drs. recipe' IIRC: 3 parts Gum Turpentine
to 1 part BLO...I found mine at Home Depot but should be able to find
anywhere...good luck but wanted to share...mmmmmmm, smells nice...

Bill

[jhoak]

Well I had to do a search to figure out what "BLO" was. Thank you! That helps.

(for the lazy or google challenged it's boiled linseed oil)

[sunburnwilly]

Lemon oil here . Smells good , I oil them regularly . As a bonus my cat smells lemony fresh .

[Al Klappenberger]

Guys,

A word of caution here. I used the terpentine and BLO formula on my Belles and equipment cabinet for years and finally stoped using it. It will make your wood get darker over time. I think the answer is simply to do it sparingly. Do it only when the wood starts looking dried out.

Al K.

[colterphoto1]

A nice modern substitute is Watco Rejuvenating Oil.

Either that or rancid polecat grease.

[Marvel]

... or rancid polecat grease.

And that also keeps the sinuses cleared out.

[Guest David H]

Well I had to do a search to figure out what "BLO" was. Thank you! That helps.

(for the lazy or google challenged it's boiled linseed oil)

Boiled Linseed Oil...... Be extremely careful using this stuff.

Linseed oil left on a rag can self ignite. You must rinse the rag with soap and water after use and dispose of properly.

[jerohm]

Before you go spending a lot on something[], I urge you to try pure Mineral Oil, available in the pharamcy section of your local Walmart (also used for a laxative). It is cheap and I sincerely believe once you try it, you will use NOTHING else.

(I MEAN for the SPEAKERS ... as a laxative, I have no experience [^o)] )

[John Warren]

Before you go spending a lot on something, I urge you to try pure Mineral Oil, available in the pharamcy section of your local Walmart (also used for a laxative). It is cheap and I sincerely believe once you try it, you will use NOTHING else.

(I MEAN for the SPEAKERS ... as a laxative, I have no experience )

Mineral oil is a non-drying finish, not that great for furniture. It's best for surfaces that come in contact with water, food (cutting boards with food grade mineral oil).

I spend four years working in a piano rebuilding shop (part time in college). I didn't get involved in the finishing part of the build but the place always smelled like Linseed Oil, they went through gallons of the stuff.

[jerohm]

... I sincerely believe once you [ACTUALLY] TRY IT, you will use NOTHING else.

I stand by my assertion, but it is a free country (kinda [] )

[]

[WMcD]

Here is my quick take. Others may well disagree. We’ve had a lot of threads. I’m just regurgitating here.

- - - -

At one point long ago a Klipsch employee posted that Birchwood Casey’s Gunstock Oil was used by the factory. Maybe that was true but I tend to doubt it was used on many. It is a good wipe on product and does build a finish. There is something in it which hardens and these are resins. I like these types of products. There are many wipe on varnishes at HD described below.

One reason I doubt it is used, or used in any amount worth talking about, is the typical water damage we see in Klipsch speakers from planter water run off. And the walnut eventually gets dried out looking and vulnerable.

Also at one point a Klipsch employee recommended Homer Formby rejuvenating oil. This IIRC is raw linseed oil. Check the MSDS. It does not build much of a finish and does not harden from what I understand. I’ve not used it. But it could well be a good choice.

- - - -

Generally we see a lot of suggestions for boiled linseed oil sometimes mixed with wax and turpentine. This is traditional finish from centuries past. I’ve not used it. I wouldn’t recommend it because of reported problems with gumming and the fire hazard. If you really want a boiled linseed finish, Watco finishes contain boiled linseed oil and the cans have the fire hazzard warning. Our brothers here like it so I’m a bit bashful.

= = =

The most widely used oil for home care is "Lemon Oil" which you can find by Old English and Formby. This is mineral oil which is similar to motor oil. There is some lemon perfume in it. Maybe it masks a motor oil smell. Or just to make cleaning a nice experience.

I see no reason not to buy pharmacy grade mineral oil but no reason to use it either. BTW long ago I bought four quarts at a drug store to use in a Heathkit dummy load Can-tenna. What the druggist thought, I dunno.

I use the Lemon Oil. Mike 2A3 gave the Belle a clean up with this before selling it to me. Thanks Mike.

On the e-bay obtained OW Klipsch I used Lemon Oil and a Scotchbrite pad to get off some grunge. Wipe around a bit and take the excess off with a paper towel. Mike C. recommends a sanding block behind, as would be used with sandpaper.

Caution like this is always good. My thought is that if you use a material like you could use on your face or hand, it is not going to hurt the wood – when used reasonable. Maybe you can use a facial buff pad from Walgreen’s if you’re that concerned.

= = = =

Behind all the above is a caution that the term "oil" covers a lot of products which are applied to wood. If any label says "oil" it pretty much means it is not laquer or a very modern water based finish. All you can do is make a close reading of the label and the MSDS on line.

We should also appreciate that the project is put something on the top surface of the wood. This top surface is essentially a piece of paper which is very vulnerable because the tree from which it was created has cells which were created to absorb and transport water in the plant. We need to apply products which prevent that.

= = = =

A) We see that some are relatively unprocessed mineral or vegetable oils (non-boiled). These do not contain resins which otherwise form a plastic-solid coating. On first application you get the good optical properties which give a low gloss, rich color, and increased contrast of grain. They will protect against water damage to some extent. Over a course of months they will evaporate and you must re-apply. But, heck, it can be rewarding.

We have wipe on finishes which are mostly "oil" but contain resins or, being "boiled" will solidify. It is my understanding that pure tung oil will solidify. Formby was hot on this. It is an oriental tradition but requires very many thin coats or it will alligator.

Some of what you see sold as tung oil finish at HD also contains varnish type resins and/or is processed tung oil. Not that this is bad, but the "tung oil" moniker is being used as selling point only.

In my view, if you want to build a finish, wipe on "oil" finishes are very very good. Birchwood Casey is one of them. See above.

You just have to get into a mind set that you are going to wipe it on, remove excess, wait a day, buff with a Scotchbrite, and do it again. Doing this five days will give you a fantastic finish.

C) The stuff in are thinned out varnishes. They are thinned out with "oil".

The varnishes C) have much more resins which these days are polyurethane. These build a thick finish quickly but your have drip and sag issues.

= = =

Just to close the discussion. We have a progression of A) oil which is oil and does not solidify. Oil with some resins which build a finish but in thin coat. And C) varnish, which has more resin and less oil.

= = =

While we’re here. Most commercial furniture is covered with spray lacquer at the factory. Sometimes this is a very thin coating. In other cases the layers are built up to plastic-looking gloss. This is essentially nail polish.

Wm McD

[Islander]

I've used lemon oil (maybe it's lemon-perfumed mineral oil, I don't know), but when I asked about furniture oil at an antique shop a few years back, they recommended orange oil, so I bought a small bottle and tried it on my oiled walnut (non-Klipsch) speakers. It went on well and seems to last a really long time, with no darkening, so I'd recommend it, too.

The brand is Howard Orange Oil Furniture Polish. According to the label, it contains pure, natural, lemon oil, but no silicone or linseed oil. However, it also warns that it is combustible and contains petroleum distillates (yes, I always read all of the label). It's made in Paso Robles, CA and the website is www.howardproducts.com

[kumayama]

There are a number of books on woodworking finishes that you can get online or through your library. Both Jeff Jewitt and Bob Flexner have excellent books on the subject that will allow you to make a very informed decision.

I have a lot of experience finishing furniture and woodturnings, as well as my Klipschorns, and recommend prepolymerized tung oil. It is easy to put on. It offers a lot more protection than any nondrying oil like lemon oil. It will not yellow or darken as much as boiled linseed oil will over time. A good source available online is from Lee Valley.

[kuisis]

Thanks I'm going to get some of that.

[colterphoto1]

Mr. McD states "Also at one point a Klipsch employee recommended Homer Formby
rejuvenating oil. This IIRC is raw linseed oil. Check the MSDS. It does
not build much of a finish and does not harden from what I understand.
I’ve not used it. But it could well be a good choice."

I've used and recommended Watco many times and never heard a complaint. It is what is on MY Reference collection of Khorns, LS, CW, Heresies, and forte II.

If applied too thickly it will 'gum up' and using more Watco to remove this is the solution. Wipe several thin coats on to build the finish just like is done with BLO. Remember to thoroughly shake or stir the contents (do not shake vigourously to avoid air entrainment), wipe on very thin coat, allow to set a bit (30 mins) and wipe with clean lint free cloth. Do all this very gently so as not to catch any grain burrs on the veneer, especially on the edges of very dry veneer.

Steve Phillips (Tech Support) has recommended the following for very dry Klispch veneer:

Oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year. This would total to 13 treatments and is one shite-ton of rubbing. The point is to slowly build up the solids and polish any roughness off the veneer surface with MUCH rubbing over many treatments. That is the sure fire way to get a deep rich shine.

To me, the furniture oils have short-lived lives (the sheen), their wetness attracts dust, and they need constant attention. Properly BLO or Watco'd speakers are dry to the touch always and a light dusting is all that is needed to keep them clean.

[jhoak]

Oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year. This would total to 13 treatments and is one shite-ton of rubbing. The point is to slowly build up the solids and polish any roughness off the veneer surface with MUCH rubbing over many treatments. That is the sure fire way to get a deep rich shine.

I'm after a nice finish... not a career []

I guess I should clarify what I'm doing. I picked up a pair of beater La Scalas recently. I've cut the tops off and built "top hats" in the style of La Scala IIs. The top hats were built with 3/4" oak veneerd plywood & MDF and I'm in the process of veneering and edge banding the everything not already covered in oak. I'll be staining them with a 2 coat process of MinWax "Special Walnut" and MinWax "Red Mahagony". This will result in a color that matches the audio equipment stand that I built (also of oak) earlier this year. I have not yet applied a finish to the stand, waiting to see what I ended up with on the speakers so that it all matched.

As an F.Y.I. I plan to veneer and stain my Heresys (83 HBRs) and Academy to match. All five will get matching grills probably black but the jury is still out on that.

I have a good bit of experience with various finishes. Mostly urathanes but a good bit with spar varnish and a few pieces in tung oil. Right now I'm leaning toward 8 to 10 thin coats of satin urathane once the color has settled in.

Oh yea... Thanks for all of the great input. This thread has been exactly what I asked for... Enlightening! I do think I'll pass on the "rancid polecat grease" though. It sounds like it might be tough to wash off of my hands [:|]

[wuzzzer]

Tung oil worked very well on my Forte and KGs.

[WMcD]

Like I was saying: http://popularwoodworking.com/article/The_Basics_of_Wiping_Varnish2/

Wm McD