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Khorn bass bin, 1/2" or 3/4" ??


Invidiosulus

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I'm thinking about building some Khorn bass bins for my living room as they would fit nicely and we have two good corners.

Would it be worth it to work out the plans to use 3/4" plywood for all the internal bits instead of the usual 1/2" ??

I think the 3/4" would be easier to work with although it would mean a little more expense in the wood and tweaking the plans slightly.

Thoughts?

-Josh

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I'm thinking about building some Khorn bass bins for my living room as they would fit nicely and we have two good corners.

Would it be worth it to work out the plans to use 3/4" plywood for all the internal bits instead of the usual 1/2" ??

I think the 3/4" would be easier to work with although it would mean a little more expense in the wood and tweaking the plans slightly.

Thoughts?

-Josh

Go 3/4" and enclose the backs. You won't know how much better they sound until you hear someone else's stock Khorns.

www.dcchomes.com/FLKhorns.html

Greg

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I would say stick with 1/2 inch.

About 20 years ago I built some SKs from the plans. I was under the mistaken impression that the Hope product used 3/4 --- which is not the case. But I went through the complicated process of redrawing and calculations.

Having to do it again, I would use 1/2. There really are not any long un-supported spans where the thicker wood will make a difference. If PWK really wanted to he would have gone to 3/4.

Let me offer another suggestion. Do not build a K-Horn copy, Build a Jubilee copy. Please. There is enough toil without making it more complicated than needed.

There are plans created by people on the forum and several threads of construction pictures.

It is arguably a better speaker.

Importantly, a very large number of pieces are the same height. Therefore, with one or two careful rips of a sheet of ply, you've made about half of all the cuts necessary. Most of the others of these require a bevel cut but the pieces are square.

Granted, it is important that these be the same height, but if you're off by as much as 1/16 or so, it doesn't matter; as long as things are square and uniform in height.

Some of the other pieces, those in the front "ramps" are 3 inches wide and you can rip that easily. Again, it is important to keep them uniform..

Please take a look at the the pieces you'll be cutting in the Jubilee. You'll see that many share the same dimensions and fit in the same places.

My other suggestion in building is to "go metric". Decimal is far easier to work with than fractions.

Wm McD

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Maybe I'm a complete idiot but I don't think the Khorns look that hard to build.

Compound Schmompound.

It's still just a couple of passes on the tablesaw.

There are only what, 6 pieces per cab that feature compound angles?

I started thinking about the 1/2" deal and as bad as the backs of my heresy's vibrated I don't think I'd want that in any speaker.

-Josh

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I'm new to this forum, but not new new to "build threads". I understand that your link is for marketing, but the attention to detail is impeccable. In the short time I have been here I have seen many of your posts and I can appreciate the time it takes to post the quality information that you do. You are a true "Master"

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3/4" on the front and sides, 1/2" for the other pieces. That way it will not be necessary to redo the plans except to make the front 5/8" wider than stock. Consider 1" MDF for the front and 3/4" MDF for the sides. I am not a big fan of MDF but it may be better than plywood in those spots. Consider using braces ala the Speakerlab copy between the woofer chamber and the ramps on the top and bottom of the enclosure. Consider eliminating the motorboard and mounting the driver directly to the baffle board. Consider enclosing the backs. That's if you are sure it's the Khorn that you want.

There are easier horn enclosures to cut and build, such as Jubs or MWMs, but they are larger. The Khorn tucks away neatly into the corners, but you need corners. Decisions, decisions.

Whatever you do it will be a learning experience. Work safely and have fun. Whatever you decide to do, they will sound better because you did it.

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I'm new to this forum, but not new new to "build threads". I understand that your link is for marketing, but the attention to detail is impeccable. In the short time I have been here I have seen many of your posts and I can appreciate the time it takes to post the quality information that you do. You are a true "Master"

Thank you for the kind words. "Master"? I don't know, I fancy myself a bit of a woodworking hack actually! But I do know a lot of tricks for covering imperfections. I need better tools.

Greg

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Greg, very nice restoration !!

Thank you. The FLKhorns are the best I've done so far.

Greg

When I first looked at it I assumed FLKhorns stood for Fully Loaded Khorns.

They look really nice.

I like the enclosed back alot.

I'll certainly do something similar.

I realise it would take a bit more work on the plans but i still think I'm going to go with 3/4" all the way around.

Actually, I find myself wishing that 1" were cheaper.

I cut out a sheet of brown paper the size of a Khorn footprint at lunch and my wife said "that's it? well those will be cute little things."

Yes, yes, they will be.

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It's clamping all those shallow obtuse angles on the Jubilee that bugs me.

With the Khorn one could easily use some countersunk screws to pull the glue joints tight.

Even easier if using 3/4"

Besides,

I already own the K33's and K55's K77's(although I doubt I'll use the K77's).

I'm gonna have to play the poor boy card and settle for Khorns.
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The clamping actually works out pretty well.

Using the straps for clamps on the outside panels, screw the pieces to the support struts/wings (loosely) and then tighten the straps to pull the joint together. In my build I had already attached the "bottom" and had pre-drilled. So between the struts and bottom plate with the screws loosely tightened, the clamping went pretty well. That is to say, nothing flew apart as I was clamping. I also cheated and used PVA (the stuff in the "caulking tube"). It fills gaps nicely.

If you go the Jubilee route (which I encourage), Ask JWC about appropriate drivers. There used to be a great deal on some Pioneers, but they are now discontinued. Alternatively, you can always buy some Jubilee bass bins and focus your DIY efforts on the cosmetics and trim. BTW, there are all sorts of alternatives for the the mid range and tweeter horns.

Okay, have I depleted your savings account yet?

-Tom

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