lotusmark Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Titebond, Gorilla, any suggestions? TIA Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigCliff Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 I have had great luck with gorilla glue repairing kitchen cabinets, but it does expand so you will get seepage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigrfish Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Look at the PL construction adhesive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotusmark Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 Wow! I never thought about using a construction type adhesive. What about clean up if it oozes onto the exterior surface that will be stained or oiled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Wow! I never thought about using a construction type adhesive. What about clean up if it oozes onto the exterior surface that will be stained or oiled? PL is great on interior surfaces as it swells and fills voids as it dries. It's very strong too. It is a bit of a pain to remove from surfaces that will be finished however. I'd be tempted to use PL on the inside and wood glue where the seams would show. You can clean the squeeze out from wood glue up with a damp rag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigrfish Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 You will be gluing long before you veneer or otherwise finish....wipe the spill first with an appropriate solvent and sand if necessary, I would speculate. This product is even good for outdoors or environments where the work might be exposed to water. My CornScalas were built (not by me) using Kreg joinery and this or a similar adhesive and are SOLID. Their website says to prefit pieces to avoid errors, and further says to "Clean tools and uncured adhesive residue immediately with mineral spirits in a well-ventilated area to the outdoors. Remove cured adhesive by carefully scraping with a sharp-edged tool". I think I would start with it and change if it proved unworkable. Get a box of stretchy nitrile (usually blue) gloves..don't want this stuff on your hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 I am also a fan of the PL adhesive. Either the "premium" or the "375" will work. It is fine on either MDF or plywood. One clarification regarding the "clean up with a damp rag". It is not soluble in water, you need to use paint thinner. Good Luck, -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Personally, I kind of like the smell of PL[:|]. I guess that if you are veneering, PL on the wood could be sanded off. If you are going to use something like Birch and stain it, I'd be worried about it getting deep into the grain and staining it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Are you a good wood worker (close tolerance) or are you building with a skill saw? If you are having your pieces cut on a decent table saw or good panel saw white PVA wood glue is your best easiest bet. Stronger joint than the wood cleans up with water totally non toxic if you want a faster grab glue use yellow carpenters glue (still PVA) as it grabs faster but gives you less assembly /adjustment time to work with). Use masking tape along seams to catch squeeze out and keep it off the wood surface as it will show when finished. If your build is a rough cut or loose tolerance then a Urethane glue will expand to fill gaps but you will need clamps to hold it untill set. With white PVA you can clamp with masking tape if your cuts are tight and only need a clamp or two to keep things square. You can remove clamps in 20 min but 30 is safe to handel. If you are using butt joints make sure that you preseal cut ends with a dilute mix of glue and water. Open ends (ply or particle board) will suck up a lot of glue and can go dry on you so a pre seal is a good practice. White glue is probably the cheapest glue you can use. PL construction adhesive is great for fast easy assembly of braces and cleats inside the box and as a saftey seal on edges you think might be dry (leaky). If you have an air nailer then use white glue as it is cheaper and easier to use. With any glue less is more. You only require the thinnest of glue lines to yield the highest strength joint. Thick glue lines look bad and are weaker. Just for a reality check ask a few good cabinet makers what they would charge you for the finished job, some can even finish or refer you to the spray shop they use. Yes they cost money but they work better and way faster than your most optomistic estimate of your own work time and they have clamps tools everything. A good cabinet maker can knockup a set of cabinets in a morning before he has coffee. Weigh your options you might be surprised. I have found that even with my most careful builds my material cost is always higher than estimated due to miss cut and such wether just mistakes or oversights. A good cabinet maker just does not make those kinds of mistakes. Good luck and have fun. Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotusmark Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 Thanks everyone for your input! Much appreciated. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigrfish Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 I used it in a misadventure on some room treatments. I bought some dimensionally stable batts of fiberglass along with some burlap cloth to wrap them with initially to place behind my surround speakers (KP 3002's topped with TracHorns and the Atlas drivers) and when the materials got here I was able to better see what I had, and found it would be necessary to glue the fiberglass to a substrate in order to wrap the burlap around and have something to staple to. I glued the fiberglass to the thinnest sheets of plywood they had at Home Depot with this PL construction adhesive. I had some 3-M spray contact adhesive but it did not take too long for me to get scared of that stuff, as the list of dire warnings on the can is longer than my leg. It may be like killing a mouse with an elephant gun but I am speculating that nothing is going to randomly fall apart that has been joined together with the PL adhesive. I am going to cover the back of these treatments, which are 2' X 4', with Green Glue and let it cure completely, so the cured Green Glue, which will take on the consistency of a resilient rubber gasket, will be what is in contact with the wall behind the surround speakers in hopes that it will help my room sound better and keep extra bass out of my neighbor's space as well. That's a little off-topic, but we all could use some randomness every now and then. Bob Greene, The Cigar Bum on this forum, built the CornScala cabinets I have. He told me that he used a construction adhesive, did not specify which one, to assemble them and that it would not be possible to disassemble them, and Dr Cullison from Georgia also is a speaker building maniac, or at least used to be, and his handle is JWC on this forum...they would be good to consult as well, especially regarding the practicalities of how one could use this adhesive without having a mess. Perhaps a very thin skim-coat of silicone caulk around, at, or near the edges of at-risk surfaces put on with a drywall trowel would be a practical way to protect the work area, and after it cures, that could be just peeled off, with any glue excesses, without incurring damage to the wood. I learned about those properties of Silicone caulk when I populated my CS cabs with components. Painters' masking tape might also be an alternative. I can't believe that there is not some easy way to protect the work and still use what is apparently a superior product otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Just a couple quick thoughts; on a Cornscala build you will have to the interior throughout the entire build so providing a tight bond on the panels for construction purposes would probably be better served with high strength wood glue for application and clean up purposes although if you prefer PL(great stuff too), you just need to have a sacrificial putty knife around to handle the excess on the exterior as it expands as it's already been stated that the interior look doesn't matter at all. If you use a premium wood glue it will soak into the panels better than PL will and clean up is a cinch and you can take a pliable silicone sealant and air seal the interior of the cabinet if you have any worries about leakage and it will stay pliable for a very long time. You're not going to go wrong either way and if you want to get nuts about it use contact cement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Dubay Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 I have been using Gorilla Glue for my DIY project for quite some time and have had good luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tromprof Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 I used PL on my tuba sub-woofer build, as recommended by the designer. It is wonderful stuff, and as noted above it expands as it dries and fills in voids creating air tight joins. If it gets on the surface you are going to stain, just wipe of the excess and use a little mineral spirits to clean the rest off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 My .02 worth. For interior surfaces, PL and Gorilla are fine....don't get Gorilla glue on your hands and let it dry there....you will regret it. PL adhesive on a surface to be painted will make your life miserable, but for void filling and interior stuff it is very good. I used Gorilla glue for my DBB build and PL for my DIY subwoofer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Titebond II if you want a good wood glue with easy clean up (water). Once you glue two pieces together, the pieces will typically fail before the glue, privided the surfaces are clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 even basic elmers white glue is stronger than the wood it is being applied to. regardless of which water based glue you use....the trick is to get the wood to suck the glue into it and to keep gaps at a minimum....hence the need to clamp and strap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 I use Titebond II. White glue may be strong enough but this yellow glue will fill a gap. There is no issue that the others mentioned work well. But they require solvents to clean up. In my situation (working indoors -- often in the apartment) that is a problem. They may be overkill if you are just gluing together plywood. Wm McD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 Titebond II is also better than many other non-solvent based wood glues because it can stand up to humidity and water when dry. Many other types of wood glues don't so no matter what you use, make sure it isn't bothered by humidity. As Speakerfritz said, the real key to a successful build is clean tight joints. You don't want an enclosure that isn't solid and rattles or squeeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 .the trick is to get the wood to suck the glue into it[Y] exactly! I actually choose to use wood glue ILO PL for that very reason when I was deciding how to attach 8' 3/4" plywood gusset plates that I used to support the roof of my home when I cut the trusses out to frame for cathedral ceilings. PL does not absorb into the wood the way that wood glue will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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