One more SPUD build "They call me Tater"

[Pete H]

Pete,

One more thing. Regarding the driver that does compress its surround material, make real sure the plywood cutout is smooth and large enough to NOT interfere with the driver's movement. Besides possible performance problems, rough edges and or cuts could damage the woofer cone.

It appears in your picture that you mounted both of them by droping them in through the front of the cut out which would provide better clearance for the angled driver but when I looked back at the drawing (knowing that these were not the final drawings) it appears that the angled driver is mounted from the rear and the other driver is mounted from the front. I'm just going to mount the both from the front and let the driver gasket just hang out there which will require additional gasket material as you installed on your build. I did the test cut at 7 1/4", which is the listed cut out and that worked well for the basket to drop in and still provide pleanty of material to secure the drivers with T-Bolts.

AMPLIFICATION Opinions!

Provided I'm understanding the wiring properly the drivers will be wired in series which will make it a 8 ohm load and make the power handling of the drivers 300 RMS and 600 max.

I will be coming out of the Sub Output from the Onkyo 805 so I can control the frequency feed to the sub from the receiver and have a few options on amplification that I would like opinions on.

1. Run one of the Carver M200's bridged which will give me around 350W into the 8 ohm load.

2. Run the QSC (currently driving the RF 7's and I don't really want to change that) bridged giving me around 1000W

3. Purchase a new amp for the Spud and if so, lets hear some recommendations. If I go new, I would lean towards a dedicated sub amp (plate or rack mount) that would have phase control and other adjustments since I'm not sure how the long signal path of the Spud is going to translate with the mains since it will be located behind them on the main wall.

I'm assuming that for testing in the shop one of the Carvers bridged will be sufficient for testing but if not someone please chime in.

Thanks to everyone who's helped with information.

[CECAA850]

Check out THIS amp. It's one of the few out there with a selectable high pass filter (which you'll need). You can use your receiver's low pass filter. Credit thaddeussmith for bringing this very good option to my attention. It has a ton of options for the price.

[dtel]

Pete,

What you need to ensure, is that once the sub is completely sealed you can still replace each woofer if you ever needed to. That is, you must be able to remove the woofers using only the access panel. That should dictate how you mount them. I added some thin, sticky, foam insulation to the woofer that did not use the woofer's foam to compress. I will upload my mount.

That's exactly what I did, that way if I blow up a driver I can replace it through the access hole. I also mad sure the hole where the driver faces the wood that the hole I had was big enough so the rubber on the surround could not hit any wood if it were to have a really long excursion.

Whoever thought about the access door being moved had a great idea, it's much easier to build and to get to the drivers like that.

[Pete H]

I also used T-nuts on my driver mount holes so ther was no fear of stripping when compressing the gasket. (click on pic to enlarge)

I use T- Nuts all the time for mounting drivers, because let's face it, if you got no nuts, you're not mounting anything.[]

I Might be the only one doing a build that has complete " I"M A DUMB AS&" moments, but I'm going to share them with you so just in case, you've ever had one, you know you're not alone, and I didn't just have one.

1. Picture shown is of a $20+ router bit that I wasted because it was the wrong one, brand new mind you, but not meant for 3/4" material, so after smoking myself out of the shop because I would just push the router harder, the result is that I wasted this bit on a test hole. That there's a Dumb As& moment.

2. Not pictured, but non the less, another Dumb As& moment would be realizing that the reason you got hung up the night before on weather to mount if doggie or bag off [] had to do with looking at the drawing this morning and even posting that the drawing showed one mounted one way and the other one the other way because it's part of the design in order to get the drivers out if you need to through the access hole and having 2 different friends post that information in different ways and still not getting it until you're mounting the driver and going, Ah Haaaaaaa, that's why it was drawn that way. Un Freeking believable.

[CECAA850]

I normally have 1 or 2 "revelations" per build. It's part of the learning process. The trick is to not have the same one the next time[].

Are you trying to rout 3/4" with one pass?

[Panacea Engineering]

Pete,

You are experiencing the reason for the phrase "Just ask me HOW I know this", it is one that I use all the time. There is NO better experience than learning for yourself as you will eventually get through all of the mistakes. Just ask me how I know.....................[]

[Brac]

I don't recall what it was exactly, but I recall having a hard time finding a router bit that would do what I needed. I think it was the top bearing pattern cutter that would cut 3/8" with a 3/4" pattern. That was my moment, when I realized I couldn't use any of the 50 bits I had on hand.

[tromprof]

At least your DA moment only involved a little smoke, mine usually involve a little blood. When I look down a see red smears I know I am making progress! [+o(]

[Rudy81]

Pete, I'm not clear on what you meant regarding the my picture and the way they are mounted. It is a high res picture, so blow it up and look closely at it. the driver on the left is mounted in the normal manner, compressing the surround material. The driver on the right is placed through the hole from the near side of the picture. This way, both drivers can be removed via the hatch once sealed. This is the only way to mount them and have them in a position to be removed if needed.

[Pete H]

I normally have 1 or 2 "revelations" per build. It's part of the learning process. The trick is to not have the same one the next time.

Are you trying to rout 3/4" with one pass?

Revelations is a nice way of saying what a dumb As&, so I will correct my post to read that I had a couple revelations. I'm really LMFAO. BTW, I guess I need to post one thought at a time since you're the only one that actually read the part about the amp and gave me a suggestion. Thanks for reading[Y]

I too have read your entire response and I will answer your question; yes I was, but the bit I burned out wasn't for 3/4 material and with the proper bit, you can take out 3/4 with one pass, but slowly.

[Pete H]

Pete,

You are experiencing the reason for the phrase "Just ask me HOW I know this", it is one that I use all the time. There is NO better experience than learning for yourself as you will eventually get through all of the mistakes. Just ask me how I know.....................

Just remember; I told you when I'm going to build the Jubs, I'm showing up at your shop with a truck load of Bud and I will need a room too because I'm not sleeping in the maverick or comet or whatever that Ford lumber rack is that is outside your shop.[st] BTW, the plans that you sent me were unbelievable and I hope someday I can provide the same level of information to others. [Y]

[Pete H]

Pete,

What you need to ensure, is that once the sub is completely sealed you can still replace each woofer if you ever needed to. That is, you must be able to remove the woofers using only the access panel. That should dictate how you mount them. I added some thin, sticky, foam insulation to the woofer that did not use the woofer's foam to compress. I will upload my mount.

That's exactly what I did, that way if I blow up a driver I can replace it through the access hole. I also mad sure the hole where the driver faces the wood that the hole I had was big enough so the rubber on the surround could not hit any wood if it were to have a really long excursion.

Whoever thought about the access door being moved had a great idea, it's much easier to build and to get to the drivers like that.

+100000000000, once I actually figured out why the drawings were done to give the illusion of being able to replace a bad driver and realizing it would never happen unless you were a Smurf or Mini Me, I decided that a different access panel was in order and I'm obviously not the first one. Where's yours?

[Rudy81]

Here is my access panel.

[Rudy81]

one more.

[dtel]

I use T- Nuts all the time for mounting drivers, because let's face it, if you got no nuts, you're not mounting anything.

That would make a great tag line. [Y]

[Rudy81]

finally.....

[Pete H]

As stated, the driver actually will completely compress the gasket. I just kept going round and round the driver tightening a little at a time untill it was flat. This pic shows the driver before it was bolted down and how it had to be mounted from this particular side. (I can't figure out how to put a pic in PM).

That picture makes me feel a lot better about what I did. [*-)], You know I'm just kidding,, but it sucks when you go; that's not the way it looks in the picture. []

[Rudy81]

Since I had to lug both tapped horns to a second floor room, I moved them without the drivers. I installed the drivers for a final time once the horns were upstairs. So, my access location works just fine.

[Pete H]

I use T- Nuts all the time for mounting drivers, because let's face it, if you got no nuts, you're not mounting anything.

That would make a great tag line.

I wish you could actually hear how hard I'm laughing; and that is the second time I'm laughing about the same thing. Glad I'm not the only one to get it and my builds will always be informative and entertaining because that's just the way I roll.

I believe if you, me, Carl, Rudy and a few others got together, they would lock us up and melt down the key.

[Pete H]

Since I had to lug both tapped horns to a second floor room, I moved them without the drivers. I installed the drivers for a final time once the horns were upstairs. So, my access location works just fine.

If I would have read your build thread a few times prior to starting this I would have saved a lot of time. You got most of the issues worked out during your build, but I just had to beat my head against the wall a couple of times as many will do in the future. So Rudy, what's your opinion on the amp situation?