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trick for installing cable (TV) ends?


Coytee

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I'm to the point of putting some wires together.

I have a bunch of RG6 that needs tips.

Bought some compression fittings (not crimp) and they are buggers to slip all the way on. Any tricks?

I do not have gorilla hands...am willing to buy a tool (couldn't find one... Guy at Home Depot said he knew of no tool to slide them on, just the compression tool which I have)

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Richard, make sure you have matching F connector and RG-6. There is a difference between quad shield and double shield. The connectors might feel like they are compatible but they are not. I terminate RG-6 a LOT with compression fittings (the only ones to use in my opinion) and have only experienced your pain when I grabbed a bottle of fitting and they were mismatched to the number of shields on the coax.

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If you get that on there Coytee...Please post to let me know how you did it...I have at least 40 in a box with good cables that need re-done tips. Saving them for the apokoklipsch i guess :)

Are they compression type or old school push ons?

For push on there acoupla tricks that help. Even using the compression type you must strip the wire with a coaxial stripper, or a sharp knife or razorblade. Make sure you have the right size F connector as typically either an RG-6 or RG-59 depending on the coaxial cable. I have put on more than my share of either type. Just let know if can help.

Edited by billybob
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Since I terminate both RG-6 for video (and subs) and RG-59 for security cameras, I bought the Paladin Tools PA1559 compression crimper and Fluke Networks coax stripper. I have found in the RG-59 world there are mismatches between coax and terminal specs. Although I like Monoprice for a lot of things, their RG-59 compression fittings do not work well with some coax.

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Since I terminate both RG-6 for video (and subs) and RG-59 for security cameras, I bought the Paladin Tools PA1559 compression crimper and Fluke Networks coax stripper. I have found in the RG-59 world there are mismatches between coax and terminal specs. Although I like Monoprice for a lot of things, their RG-59 compression fittings do not work well with some coax.

Nice equipment for doing the job. My experience has been, whenever possible use RG-6, although in certain applications 59 can do a good job. Didn't know using 59 on security cameras was popular or acceptable.

Thanks for your insight.

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Got a couple on. They are difficult. Wire is RG6/U (if I recall the "u" part correctly)

Had to MASH them onto something (needle nose pliers) that had a small hole for the wire to pass through.

Still have some with a gap... Hands not gorilla enough.

Haven't yet compressed them, only slid a couple on. Waiting for covers to measure twice and make sure length is good. Covers are due on Thursday

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The only thing one can say generally about RG-6 type coaxes is that they have an 18 AWG center conductor. An RG-6 might be a cheap generic CATV coax, designed strictly for economy, with a thin aluminum braid and a copper-coated steel center conductor; it might be a better-grade CATV coax, with an aluminum "quad shield" arrangement; or it might be a precision serial digital video coax like Belden 1694A, with a dense copper braid and double-foil shield, solid copper center conductor, nitrogen-injected PE foam dielectric, and extremely broad bandwidth and tight impedance tolerance. When people ask, "can I just use RG-6 for this application," the only correct answer is a question: what do you mean by "RG-6"? High-bandwidth serial digital video and cable TV distribution may both use RG-6 type cable, but that doesn't mean that the cable for one is necessarily suitable for the other.

The most common RG designations seen these days are RG-6, RG-8, RG-11, RG-58 and RG-59. RG-58 and RG-8 are 50 ohm coaxes, used in radio transmission (e.g., CB or Amateur radio) or in computer networks, RG-8 being a rather large cable and RG-58 a smaller cable. As 50 ohm cables, these are unsuited for video work. RG-6, RG-59 and RG-11 are all 75 ohm cable types, with RG-59 being the smallest, RG-6 in between, and RG-11 being the largest. RG-11 is practically absent from home a/v applications, because it is very large, not very flexible, and incompatible with any RCA connector we've ever seen; its main uses are in very long runs where low signal loss is of paramount importance. RG-6 and RG-59 are both common in home a/v use, because their sizes are compatible with a variety of connectors. Both are available in many different types, with different shields, jackets, dielectrics, and center conductor materials. The best of these, from an overall performance standpoint, are the modern "precision video cables" such as Belden 1505A (RG-59 type) and 1694A (RG-6 type).

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I am familiar with having used the 11 on a long run for satellite diplexed to accomodate where line of sight to the bird was not accessible. Well over 250 feet. Have used various microwave cables where the bandwidth was the typical 3.7 to 4.2 Ghz, 500 Mhz signal. N conn. 213,214 cable. In those days before down conversion at the reflector, it was mighty expensive doing even a modest run. And lossy to say the least. Diplexed a VHF signal with good results and no line amp using the 11.TVRO, the good old days.

Edited by billybob
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Hey usnret, I have used both of those cables and the 1694 worked great. However when I purchased some compression fittings got the 1505 after giving them a try they seem to slip right off. Could this be do to like you said not the right fittings for the cable. I didn't check to see if it was for quad or double insulation. I purchased some new ones to see if they work. Do you have a place online I can purchase quality low cost rca compression fittings. I have had good luck with Fconn but they are pricey.

Coytee did you get those fittings on yet.

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Hey usnret, I have used both of those cables and the 1694 worked great. However when I purchased some compression fittings got the 1505 after giving them a try they seem to slip right off. Could this be do to like you said not the right fittings for the cable. I didn't check to see if it was for quad or double insulation. I purchased some new ones to see if they work. Do you have a place online I can purchase quality low cost rca compression fittings. I have had good luck with Fconn but they are pricey.

Coytee did you get those fittings on yet.

I had some sources but in reality now I only do so much so it's to the local store and test fit.

Here is a blub that MIGHT fit to address the problem:

Based on your description, it sounds like the center conductor of the cable is not inserted all the way into the barrel that guides it into the center pin. That results in the compression ring sliding over the braid and eventually comes out from under the ring. The connector will be loose and you'll have very poor continuity with the center tip and braid when this occurs (the connector may even pull off or twist).

I can think of 3 things which can cause this:

1. The center conductor is not going into the barrel when you insert the cable into the connector, and instead is starting to be inserted between the outside of the barrel and inside of the connector. The insulated part of the center conductor should fit all the way into the barrel, so the very tip fits into the center pin, before you compress the connector with the tool. This can happen if the center conductor is bent slightly and you don't reshape it before putting the end of the coax into the connector. -or-

2. The insulated center conductor is not seated all the way into the barrel, so the very end of the uninsulated part of the conductor does not go into the center pin of the connector. If you twist the connector slightly back-and-forth as you push the coax into the connector it will be easier to fit everything into correct position, before using the compression tool. - or -

3. The center barrel is too small to accommodate the insulation over the center conductor, so it won't properly fit all the way in. This prevents the center conductor from seating all the way into the center pin, and keeps the shield from being in the correct position for compressing with the tool.

I got some RG59 connectors about 6 months ago in one of the hardware super stores that were actually made for RG-6 cable. The insulation on the center conductor of RG-6 is not as big in diameter as RG-59, so RG-59 insulated inner conductor would not fit all the way into the barrel properly. Funny thing is they were the compression connectors with the blue plastic on them and were supposedly made for RG-59 per the packaging -- while the black plastic was made for RG-6. So somewhere they got something screwed up during manufacture. Fortunately I discovered this when installing the first connector from the package.

----

When you get done stripping all the insulation hold the cable next to the side of a connector, so the very end of the center conductor insulation is even with the upper edge of the fixed ring on the outside of the connector. Then mark the coax where the very end of connector compression ring is even with the coax. That is where the connector should fit of the coax is inserted properly. The coax doesn't move when you compress -- the compression ring on the upper end of the connector moves in instead to lock the braid in position on the outside of the barrel, so everything is tight and won't move. You shouldn't see any braid on a properly made connector, if you stripped the coax to the correct dimensions.

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and I just realized that I was talking about a couple of different things.

all my talk prior was using F connectors on RG-6 and BNC connectors on RG-59. The principles remain the same, there are some detail nomenclature difference in the connectors

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I have a couple different compression tools for F connectors at home. They will make your life easier and they aren't that expensive. I'm at work at the moment, so I can't tell you the brand of either of them. I normally am dealing with RJ-45 connectors and punch down blocks, or terminating fiber, so a friend loaned me the tools and gave me a bag of F Connectors when I ran new cable inside my house.

I can let you know tonight, unless you already have it figured out.

One is like this one, and works great. Now, looking at the price I'm glad I didn't have to buy it.

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?sku=70223519&mkwid=roWwCjOa&pcrid=18584062219&gclid=CPyVsqegiL4CFbTm7AodXEkAwg

Bruce

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