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Titanium Diaphrams...


SWL

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YES!!! Madisound, that's it. Thanks for that AVGUYTX. I remember my ex only used Parts Exp when all else failed (probably when he too forgot the name of Madisound). I'll have to make a note of that and Parts connection (a new one to me).

Could Sound Better, thank you too for the band pass diagram. I'm eager to give that a try.

Anybody here have an opinion on using 1/4" ABS plastic plate for crossover bases? My ex used that almost exclusively and only one of all he shared that with had reservations. The reservation was a concern over the plastic possibly developing static electricity and interrupting the crossover frequencies. That both does AND doesn't work in my limited experience.

So, this week, I'm going to start some drawings and then order the parts. May not get to work on it for a couple more weekends but this could also be a good winter project too.

Thanks again all

S :)

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  • 4 months later...

Wow, I forgot all about this discussion. I just ordered some titanium diaphrams for the mids in my KLF-30's based on a thread over at Audiokarma. I may have jumped the gun...

 

I thought I'd try it out without the crossover mod in the hopes that if the bump up in the 7k range is too hot for my taste, I could make a cut in this area using my digital EQ (DEQ2496). Would this be logical?

 

Without the x-over mod, some swore it was a definite improvement. Some said it wasn't. Some admitted that the midrange was "louder" giving the impression that it might be better.

 

Well, they should be here on Monday.....guess I'll just find out for myself....but I'm still curious about the EQ thing. Does that make any sense?

 

I'm just not big on 'midrange'. Maybe...or probably...it's just because I've never experienced good sounding midrange. I don't know. With the settings I have on my DEQ 2496 (mids slightly scooped because of the poor mids in the KLF-30) it sounds very good to my ears. I just want to see if it can sound better.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've had the titanium mids installed for a week now without the x-over mod. I believe the proper way would be to have the bandpass mod done as Bob suggested.....but I just can't deny the improvement that I'm hearing. I did find that it was necessary to make a 3db cut in the 7k range for my taste.

 

Overall, the sound is cleaner, more detailed and crisp. Bass is tighter and more accurate. Good recordings sound better. Bad recordings sound worse. The  speaker is more musical and spacious in comparison.

 

The new mids did not add warmth in any way. Just more precision and detail with a bit more air to the sound.

 

I intend on getting the x-over mod done as well as having Bob rebuild the entire crossover. In the meantime I'm really impressed with the improvement. I have a well treated room and I have to wonder if this sound would fly in a 'hard' room. The added 'crisp' sound might backfire in that situation....I don't know.

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Some admitted that the midrange was "louder" giving the impression that it might be better.

 

I actually did the upgrade twice with my Chorus II's. To keep a long story short I ordered a set of the titanium mids about 6 years ago and installed them without any crossover changes and they were just horrible! Extremely screechy and in your face, they did not blend with the other drivers at all. I stuck it out for about a week just to see if they'd break in or I'd get used to them but I never did. Fast forward to about a year ago when I discovered the crossover thread mod and became interested again. I ordered new crossovers from Crites with the band pass adjustment for the titanium mids and tried it again. They were much better than the first time, substantially better. If I only listened at a lower volume or near-field  I may have kept them. Thing is, I like to rock it on occasion (once a week, maybe twice) and really turn things up. The titanium mids just became unbearable at higher volumes. My impressions were that they did play louder giving them more presence and detail at lower volumes. The probably was that they seemed to keep getting louder at a higher rate than the rest of the drivers to the point of being extremely unbalanced at high volumes. I really wanted to like them and have an "upgrade" but at the end of the day they had to go.

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 Knowing now that the mids are the same only "dialed back" via crossover in the Forte II I imagine that the titanium mids would probably work much better in that application. I have not tried it personally but have I swapped Chorus II crossovers in Forte II cabinets and the added midrange output sounds great.

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What you are describing with the Chorus' sounds very familiar. When I first hooked up the titanium mids, they had a huge sound. A very prominent midrange that had so much air and detail but just didn't sound right. I thought maybe I just had to get used to the change but really couldn't fathom the thought of cranking the volume.

 

The reason is because I had the polarity hooked up backwards. The diaphrams that come from Simply Speakers have no indication which is positive or negative. I switched them and the result was very similar to the stock mids but there was no denying the improvements I stated above.

 

I really have to wonder how many people have hooked them up backwards like I did. I mean, it had some really good qualities to the sound but just didn't sound quite right. I'm glad I reversed the polarity or I would not have kept them either.

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Both sets of TI drivers I used were original Klipsch diaphragms. The ones I ordered 6 years ago came directly from Klipsch and the ones I bought about a year ago I picked up NOS from eBay from the guy in Canada. Its obviously really hard (if not impossible) to try and compare differences with a 5 year gap in between but
I can tell you that I absolutely did not like them the first time around and counted the minutes before taking them out. The second time around I actually enjoyed them at low to mid volume, normal listening levels, they just got ridiculous (and unbearable) at higher volumes. Maybe I had them reversed the first time around?

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Something I always forget to mention is that I use EQ. I always use EQ.

 

Without using EQ I can't listen to Klipsch.....and probably more so with the titanium mids. I don't do the typical 'smiley face' but it is a variation of it. Klipsch are almost always too forward in the migrange for me to listen to without EQ. Being able to EQ in the digital domain has been the best thing since sliced bread for me. :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

i finally received my order for the Mid Ti from Klipsch -   i got the complete driver kit -  here are a few pictures -   this may be a silly question but the screws where are attached - 4  of them -  i would use those same screws to install it  ?

 

would they be long enough or are they just there to hold it all together in transit -     i know the box looks a bit damaged - i got worried when i see it - but once open - its perfect inside :)

 

this is for the Forte II -  i will put them in -  after getting bobs xover and tweeter  - i have to place a order for that -    can anyone confirm that its the correct one ?   i had spoked to klipsch twice - different times -  first time - i was told they didnt have them -  and the complete driver they dont have on order either -  

 

i decided to call again in a few days and this guy knew more and they were in stock - he didnt know about the part number i mentioned which the first guy told me for the compete kit -   and was higher cost -   this one sounded right about what i hear from everyone on here  cost wise - etc, -   

 

post-26590-0-88100000-1421359943_thumb.jpost-26590-0-87700000-1421359965_thumb.jpost-26590-0-75180000-1421359975_thumb.jpost-26590-0-41860000-1421359998_thumb.jpost-26590-0-73700000-1421360033_thumb.jpost-26590-0-79900000-1421360043_thumb.j

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i finally received my order for the Mid Ti from Klipsch -   i got the complete driver kit -  here are a few pictures -   this may be a silly question but the screws where are attached - 4  of them -  i would use those same screws to install it  ?

 

would they be long enough or are they just there to hold it all together in transit -     i know the box looks a bit damaged - i got worried when i see it - but once open - its perfect inside :)

 

this is for the Forte II -  i will put them in -  after getting bobs xover and tweeter  - i have to place a order for that -    can anyone confirm that its the correct one ?   i had spoked to klipsch twice - different times -  first time - i was told they didnt have them -  and the complete driver they dont have on order either -  

 

i decided to call again in a few days and this guy knew more and they were in stock - he didnt know about the part number i mentioned which the first guy told me for the compete kit -   and was higher cost -   this one sounded right about what i hear from everyone on here  cost wise - etc, -   

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20150115_120254.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20150115_120846.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20150115_120858.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20150115_121727.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20150115_120512.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20150115_120629.jpg

Yes the four black screws are meant to be used to mount the horn flange onto the driver. Simply remove the four black Phillips machine screws then install the horn over top of the whitch's hat align the holes and install and tighten the four screws and snug them evenly then tighten firm and you can then re install the horn to the cabinet. Make sure that you observe polarity durring the change over. Best regards Moray James.

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ok great  thats a relief -   theres a red dot sticking on the side  of one post which can only be positive - glad it had something that i can use as  guide -    i been sick with the flu past 6 days -  it sucks - today is first day i feel a bit better to get on the computer -  plus i knew these were arriving :)      i need another week to recover fully i think -   i wish i was good enough to listen to music at least all this time -    been mostly in bed - sleeping when i can -

 

i may give bob a call tomorrow or email him - see if i can get the xover and tweeter order started -    i am not goin to get the add on board for the Mid -   at least not yet -  i want to hear it myself how it sounds to me -  like many others -  some like it as is - and some didnt -     being that i feel i am always searching for a bit more top end -   i may just like them as is  -   thanks Moray -     maybe a while before i actually do it -  after getting the rest of the parts - 

 

i have to arrange a day with a friend who is willing to do it -   i think i will polish them at the same time -  give it a nice coat of polish - something to keep them in shape -  i think my finish is oiled Oak -   it shows  O O  in the rear on the sticker

 

i would think thats oiled oak - post-26590-0-40280000-1421363630_thumb.j

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to anyone who did work on there forte -  removing the rear passive -  does anyone know or remember if it comes with a gasket  between the passive and the cabinet ?    i will be doing some upgrades soon and like to be prepared -  in the event its not there on mines or needs replacing - 

 

what kind did anyone use ?   i searched and found something on SS  - but looks like its too thick - not the gasket i am looking for i think ?   i believe it would be thin layer - like a rubber gasket or some sort -  but i have no idea

 

would anyone know where i can purchase them so i have it ready -  i would just change them once i have them needed or not at that point - i rather have it and change it anyway instead of not having them and finding out i should have -

 

http://www.simplyspeakers.com/speaker-gasket-replacement-repair-gask-15.html

 

this is what i found -  but not sure if its what i need ?

 

thanks

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If you are careful when you remove the passive the gasket can be reused.  Remove all of the screws holding the passive to the speaker cabinet. You will need to lift the passive driver out of the cabinet.  To do this, use a flat screw driver and place it very carefully between the bottom rim of the metal passive basket near one of the screw holes. With a wash cloth folded under the screw driver (use it like a wedge to protect the cabinet) carefully pry up.  The passive basket should release with out much force. Remove the passive, and then carefully remove the gasket either from the cabinet or the passive.  You are now on the slippery slope in search of the perfect sound.  Welcome to the madness.

 

Good Luck and enjoy.

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It's interesting to listen to the JBL 2431/32/35 series of drivers.

 

Same magnet, same phase plug, etc.

 

Aluminum, titanium, beryllium.

 

Aluminum sounds good on average quality program material, beryllium sounds fantastic on great program material (sounds fantastically bad on bad program material however), titanium?

 

Titanium has issues, I wish everyone could compare all three types.

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Titanium has a fingernails across the chalkboard quality. It's not blatantly at the front of things, but it's noticabable on just about everything, except bombastic HT material, which does a good job of masking it, while letting it strut its stuff -- intense transients and dynamics. Like many other noise related artifacts, it's subtle, lurking deep in the background, never letting you forget it's there. Once you notice it, it doesn't let go -- until you change drivers. I love the sound of phenolic and some of the newer composite materials. Aluminum sounds really good to me, but I've only heard it operating at 1.5kHz and up, with paper pulling midrange duty. Anyways, I'll trade the teeth gritting effect for the slight lack of detail and the bit of warmth you get with the heavier material.

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