ACV92 Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 The Umax 15 kit is here! The panels are out inside reaching ambient temp so that I can begin construction tomorrow. I've ordered the 3000DSP and connectors, wire, which will be here soon. I can't wait until it's done. It will be a few weeks before complete, the temperatures outside are not favorable, and I will post a pic of the finished product. I'm going to try an XLR to RCA cable between the 3000 and receiver for now. It's an old, cheapy Yamaha unit that shows 3v on the LP out. If the gain is too high on the 3000, or I get a hum, I'll move to a CLEANbox pro. I'll need your help setting up the 3000. I presume PEQ is the way to go? I'm still studying. Release and attack, peak limiter, etc. I won't have a mic and software to run wavelength graphs. So, I'll be relying on my trusty Radio Shack SPL meter and some test tones to, as best I can, identify the peaks and valleys. I'll set dB increases/decreases in Hz gingerly. What is a good SPL to run test tones? Is 75 -80 dB a good starting point? Anyway, I blame you guys for this trek. I was just going to buy an in the box powered sub. I did, tried it, and quickly sold it on ebay. Mainly, because of the performance to cost factor you all keep alluding to. I remeasured my room and it's just over 4900 cu. ft. I'm thinking this should fit the bill. Considering I was using a 22 year old Klipsch SW-10. I feel like a kid in a candy store. I'm going to have questions coming up. The forum members here have been nothing but gracious and accommodating. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. And yes, you've sucked me in to the abyss of which I already wanted to go... Talk to you soon. Thanks, Aaron. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 On Friday, February 17, 2017 at 3:15 PM, wvu80 said: Well, it will work technically, but you'll have to sand and fill on ALL SEAMS. If you use white or yellow glue, you won't. I've already told you the easy way to avoid this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 IIRC, Erich, of diysoundgroup, and Lilmike, the designer of my Anarchy Exodus TH subs, recommended Loctite Premium PL. In any event, it's what Carl recommended, and what I used with excellent results. Others are free to use Scotch tape if they choose to. I don't feel threatened by diversity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboKlipsch Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Umik from amazon and fill for the sub are 2 things to consider. Umik at 80 or 100 may seem pricey but will be the best money u spend. Using spl meter works fine but is longer process. Good luck you will have awesome bass when done. Peq is very ez as is other setup. It is all based on measurements u take to make the response flatter. What avr are u using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboKlipsch Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Titebond 2 and the white gorilla glue work great with flat packs. Pl i believe has issues being thick in the joints created by the cnc...the dado joints...but any will work. Experience trumps theory and they all work according to 500 build threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACV92 Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 3 hours ago, RoboKlipsch said: Umik from amazon and fill for the sub are 2 things to consider. Umik at 80 or 100 may seem pricey but will be the best money u spend. Using spl meter works fine but is longer process. Good luck you will have awesome bass when done. Peq is very ez as is other setup. It is all based on measurements u take to make the response flatter. What avr are u using? I plan on getting the Umik when I can. My AVR is an old Yamaha RX-V590. The LP output is actually 3.5v, as it says in the manual. It needs to replaced. One step at a time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboKlipsch Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Sounds good ACV you don't need it initially, but it is fun and easy and very helpful. Instead of taking an SPL measurement at a particular frequency, recording it, another frequency, etc, you run a sweep with a click of the button and get a complete frequency response including distortion, phase and much more. It's awesome! Here is a link to DIYSoundgroup's assembly tips page. They cover not only the glue to use but all the various tips that are helpful. http://www.diysoundgroup.com/assembly-tips.html My pro tip is that after gluing the box together, take all the time necessary to make all the sides of the box as smooth as possible. This may involve wood filler or bondo, and will definitely involove sanding. You cannot make the sub's finish any better than the sanding/filling job you do before the paint or veneer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACV92 Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 RoboKlipsch - I've been looking into the software/mic and I know this is the best way to go. With the test tones that I ran on the sub-in-a-box, little SVS SB12-NSD, there were some definite dips and peaks in the bandwidth with no way to correct it. That's why I went with the 3000DSP. Thanks for the link. I'll use the PL on the flat pack. I'm planning on taking my time with this. So, filling, sanding, priming, sanding, painting, clear. I should be working on the enclosure now but nooooo, I'm fixing the washing machine. Yeah for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 28 minutes ago, RoboKlipsch said: Here is a link to DIYSoundgroup's assembly tips page. They cover not only the glue to use but all the various tips that are helpful. http://www.diysoundgroup.com/assembly-tips.html Here's what Erich recommends, from the link above: When assembling your flat pack I recommend using Titebond wood glue or another similar brand. Some people use PL Adhesive but it can be messy and a bit thick to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 We will not be threatened by diversity! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 We will not be threatened by diversity!Well, that's tempting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 36 minutes ago, jimjimbo said: Well, that's tempting... Don't you even start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACV92 Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 What size t-nuts and bolts would you recommend for mounting the Umax 15? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 @ACV92We ran this by Klipsch, Inc a couple of years ago and I think the answer was 10/32. That would be the fine thread. Anything larger and it won't fit through the woofer frame holes. You can use 4-prong T-nuts and put some glue on the backside so they don't spin if you ever have to remove the woofer. I like the 6 prong T-nuts because they have more of a bite on the MDF. http://www.parts-express.com/10-32-deluxe-6-prong-t-nuts-50-pcs--081-1088 Get a 1.5" bolt and use it with a washer to "draw" the T-nut into the wood with your cordless drill. Then unscrew it and use the same bolt with all the other T-nuts. I think you are using 3/4" MDF with a 3/4" front baffle. The 1.5" bolt is the perfect size. Let me check and see if I have some. If I do I'll send them to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACV92 Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 Thanks wvu80. I did find the info in the Q & A section for the Umax 15 kit on PE. So, I emailed them and asked them to add box to my order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 @ACV92 glad you found what you wanted. I found mine, 8 pieces 10/32 6-prong T nuts, and 1 1/2" black anodized hex head nuts. I've got 8 pieces for you for the asking. If PE didn't get your hardware shipped in time just shoot me a PM with your address and I'll drop them in the mail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACV92 Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 wvu80 - Mighty gracious of you. I should know Monday AM. If they don't get them in I'll definitely shoot you a PM. Most all of the hardware stores carry only 3 prong, with 4 prong available for order. Fasteners/Fastenal was the same. Again, thanks for the offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 3 prong will work fine if that's all you can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I use #10-32 screws and T-nuts as well on the Dayton drivers. T-nuts work great on plywood, not so much on particleboard. You may want to either epoxy them in (careful not to get any on the threads) or use a couple small screws to assure they don't fall out when installing the screws holding the driver in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twk123 Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 On 2/25/2017 at 4:55 PM, ACV92 said: What size t-nuts and bolts would you recommend for mounting the Umax 15? Side note but I have read a number of build threads here and on almost every one there is the stern warning to test fit the driver into the installed T-nuts BEFORE you glue them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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