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Create distressed oak look of Forte IIIs

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Staples    2

Howdy,

 

I am very interested in the Forte IIIs but cannot afford them at the moment. What I can afford are a pair of Forte IIs in oiled oak, which I picked up a few weeks ago. I don't mind oiled oak, but I prefer the distressed oak and white grills of the III.

 

My question is, does anyone have thoughts on how to recreate the look of the new distressed oak speakers if the starting point is oiled oak?

 

I have little practical experience with finishes and stains, but I'm wondering if a chemical stripper to get out any oil followed by a gray stain is all that is needed. 

 

Thoughts?

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No.4    75

Varathane makes a weathered wood accelerator, that might be what you are looking for. I have not used it personally but I think it gives the wood a grey tone.

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avguytx    367

There are also grayish wood stains, too, but that might take having to reveneer to start fresh with the color.  Sanding down to original raw veneer might tear through to the mdf as I wouldn't imagine the veneer is very thick.

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No.4    75

I would try to strip the original finish before  sanding. Is the current veneer in good condition?

 

btw, with a little patience new veneer on fortes would not be very difficult. 

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Ceptorman    6785

Whatever route you try to take, you might experiment on the bottom of the speaker first. Get the look you like before attempting the part that shows.

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Maximus89    36

I too wondered this.   I've always loved walnut for anything Klipsch, and was forced to go all black to match 2 pairs of LSi's, but that distressed oak with white grill cloth looks so sexy, I want to do it to my Chorus II's one day if I keep them for the long haul.  Would have to start with a new veneer.  My old veneer is beat up and I already spent MANY hours on the CII first in the beginning of the year to strip the original black oak and finish with a Danish Walnut Oil and then AGAIN recently to turn them back to black!

 

IMG_1869.JPG

IMG_1897.JPG

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Maximus89    36

Thanks.  I plan on going back to make the screws black again.  The idea was to add a touch of copper, but it came out too gold looking.  I should instead try and paint the magnets into a copper color.  I really liked the new stuff i saw at CES and how that guy kept describing it as hand made with little copper screws holding it in place etc. I liked the idea of that and that's what i wanted.  Too bad i can't find a proper copper to match.  Everything is too rose gold looking or way too dark. 

I need to look into that silver grill like the matte blk FIII have.  That would also look amazing on my all black LSi splits.

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Ceptorman    6785
7 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

Thanks.  I plan on going back to make the screws black again.  The idea was to add a touch of copper, but it came out too gold looking.  I should instead try and paint the magnets into a copper color.  I really liked the new stuff i saw at CES and how that guy kept describing it as hand made with little copper screws holding it in place etc. I liked the idea of that and that's what i wanted.  Too bad i can't find a proper copper to match.  Everything is too rose gold looking or way too dark. 

I need to look into that silver grill like the matte blk FIII have.  That would also look amazing on my all black LSi splits.

I thought the copper (gold) colored screws were a nice touch, just a subtle difference of color sets it off. 

I agree that the lighter silver grill cloth would look excellent.

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Maximus89    36
3 minutes ago, Ceptorman said:

I thought the copper (gold) colored screws were a nice touch, just a subtle difference of color sets it off. 

I agree that the lighter silver grill cloth would look excellent.

Thanks but I think it's disctracting. Too many screws. Also some of the screws have a different head so they look different. Here's a closer photo 

IMG_1892.JPG

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Maximus89    36
14 hours ago, Staples said:

Howdy,

 

I am very interested in the Forte IIIs but cannot afford them at the moment. What I can afford are a pair of Forte IIs in oiled oak, which I picked up a few weeks ago. I don't mind oiled oak, but I prefer the distressed oak and white grills of the III.

 

My question is, does anyone have thoughts on how to recreate the look of the new distressed oak speakers if the starting point is oiled oak?

 

I have little practical experience with finishes and stains, but I'm wondering if a chemical stripper to get out any oil followed by a gray stain is all that is needed. 

 

Thoughts?

Sorry i took over the thread without contributing.  I think for the distressed oak look, a gray finish on the stripped or sanded down raw oak could give the look you want. Verethane makes a "weathered gray" finish.  Also as mentioned, they make a weathered accelerator as well.

For the grills:
Several off white cloth options here:
https://acousticalsolutions.com/product/acoustone-speaker-grille-cloth/

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No.4    75
20 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

Thanks but I think it's disctracting. Too many screws. Also some of the screws have a different head so they look different. Here's a closer photo 

IMG_1892.JPG

It's hard to find good copper fasteners. I have used some from plumbing fittings on a few projects with good results. Have you considered painting the horns copper? I have a pic somewhere of some black RF7II with horn painted copper that looks amazing.  I have some copper Spraiy paint out in the shop that is very convincing. Just a thought.

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Maximus89    36
1 minute ago, No.4 said:

It's hard to find good copper fasteners. I have used some from plumbing fittings on a few projects with good results. Have you considered painting the horns copper? I have a pic somewhere of some black RF7II with horn painted copper that looks amazing.  I have some copper Spraiy paint out in the shop that is very convincing. Just a thought.

I maybe have seen those.  Were they the ones that you turned into a 3 way with  a fostex tweeter?  If the ones i'm thinking of, i thought they were too "orange."  I want to find the closest match i can find when i look at it side by side with a Klipsch copper cone or badge or like the ones used on the new Amp knobs and screws

IE:
 

maxresdefault.jpg

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wvu80    3769
1 hour ago, Maximus89 said:

Thanks.  I plan on going back to make the screws black again.  The idea was to add a touch of copper, but it came out too gold looking.

I like black hex-head screws.

m3-screw.jpg

https://www.parts-express.com/m35-x-25mm-cap-head-wood-screws-black-100-pcs--081-304

 

Here's the cheapy fix if you don't want to buy more screws:  B)

41XamFDhj0L._SL500_AC_SS350_.jpg

 

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jason str    1907

You will first need to completely strip all the oil finish with turpentine using steel wool and fine sandpaper, if you don't get all the oil off the veneer it will end up looking blotchy.

 

Test new finish using the bottom of the cabinet or use a scrap piece of wood.

 

The turpentine may strip the black off the motorboard and rear panel so beware and plan ahead.

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Maximus89    36

That's a good idea(hex head). I have rustoleum black spray paint I used on the horns that I can quickly paint the screws again, but the hex head might be a really nice subtle change, though i wonder if the hex heads are too fat and protrude from the horn oddly.  Do they make flatter ones?

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CECAA850    17884
17 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

That's a good idea(hex head). I have rustoleum black spray paint I used on the horns that I can quickly paint the screws again, but the hex head might be a really nice subtle change, though i wonder if the hex heads are too fat and protrude from the horn oddly.  Do they make flatter ones?

Hardware stores sell screws with different color heads. 

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avguytx    367

Lowe's has a decent selection of hex head or torx head (I think) plus if you have a Fastenal dealer close by, that's always an option.  As are some Ace Hardware stores.  At least my local one, anyway.

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JBCODD    150
18 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

That's a good idea(hex head). I have rustoleum black spray paint I used on the horns that I can quickly paint the screws again, but the hex head might be a really nice subtle change, though i wonder if the hex heads are too fat and protrude from the horn oddly.  Do they make flatter ones?

Here are a few of the common screw head types, available in most drive types:

IMG_0529.PNG

IMG_0532.PNG

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wvu80    3769
18 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

That's a good idea(hex head). I have rustoleum black spray paint I used on the horns that I can quickly paint the screws again, but the hex head might be a really nice subtle change, though i wonder if the hex heads are too fat and protrude from the horn oddly.  Do they make flatter ones?

If you want a screw head that is flush I would go with a standard Phillips head screw in the color of your choosing.  That is what most people use.

 

I think the hex head screws look classy.  They protrude slightly from the horn body but it looks good.  To my knowledge there is nothing flatter.  There is a slight mechanical advantage to using them because the hex driver does not slip.  It is possible to slip while using a Phillips head screwdriver and accidentally rip through a woofer. 

 

Don't ask me how I know that.  :rolleyes:

 

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