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Heritage_Head

LaScala nail in dog house

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I was looking at maybe doing new veneer. So upon inspecting was looking at the dog houses closely, and reaching behind on one (right as it starts going up) I can feel a nail about a half inch sticking out (like it didn't get ponding in all the way). I cant think of any way to get to (to try and pound it in). Its completely hidden. Should I leave it. Or any other ideas?

 

Thanks

Ryan

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32 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

I was looking at maybe doing new veneer. So upon inspecting was looking at the dog houses closely, and reaching behind on one (right as it starts going up) I can feel a nail about a half inch sticking out (like it didn't get ponding in all the way). I cant think of any way to get to (to try and pound it in). Its completely hidden. Should I leave it. Or any other ideas?

 

Thanks

Ryan

 

Nail was used while glue setup.  

Don’t worry about it..! 🙂

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Nails are there to keep the panels together and aligned until the glue dries, pull it out if you can twisting with vice grips to minimize splintering of the wood finish.

 

Cant see really but if the nail goes into the driver cabinet be sure to seal the hole to avoid leaks.

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9 minutes ago, jason str said:

Nails are there to keep the panels together and aligned until the glue dries, pull it out if you can twisting with vice grips to minimize splintering of the wood finish.

 

Cant see really but if the nail goes into the driver cabinet be sure to seal the hole to avoid leaks.

I have some of this from when I was building grills. Would it work for filling hole?

https://www.amazon.com/DAP-00155-Curing-Purpose-Adhesive/dp/B01DA6X0E8/ref=sr_1_20?keywords=DAP+7079800155+00155+0.85+oz+Rapid+Fuse+Fast+Curing+All+Purpose+Adhesive%2C+Clear&qid=1562103996&s=hi&sr=1-2071q1+b5XgdL._SL1500_.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

 

Never used it and really would depend where the hole was located.

 

If its in a hidden area try clear caulk. If not hidden use wood filler of similar color.

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6 minutes ago, jason str said:

 

Never used it and really would depend where the hole was located.

 

If its in a hidden area try clear caulk. If not hidden use wood filler of similar color.

Thanks....

Its hidden. Not really sure if I can get grips on it (and pull it out smoothly). 

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Use side-cutters to nip it off flush as you can, then tap it in flush.

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1 hour ago, glens said:

Use side-cutters to nip it off flush as you can, then tap it in flush.

I might have something like that. 

 

I wonder how hard it would be to take apart the whole speaker. 

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1 hour ago, Heritage_Head said:

I might have something like that. 

 

I wonder how hard it would be to take apart the whole speaker. 

 

An invisible nail is sticking up.  Nobody can see it, and it’s causing no problems.  

 

Taking the speaker apart and re-assembling it would likely cause some damage, and could take an hour at the very least.  Don’t bother yourself about the nail, it means nothing.

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28 minutes ago, Islander said:

 

An invisible nail is sticking up.  Nobody can see it, and it’s causing no problems.  

 

Taking the speaker apart and re-assembling it would likely cause some damage, and could take an hour at the very least.  Don’t bother yourself about the nail, it means nothing.

Sorry my bad. I have another thread about doing a possible new veneer to these. I was thinking out loud. Thinking if I took them apart the veneer work would be a lot less hassle if i had the speaker disassembled.

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1 hour ago, Heritage_Head said:

Sorry my bad. I have another thread about doing a possible new veneer to these. I was thinking out loud. Thinking if I took them apart the veneer work would be a lot less hassle if i had the speaker disassembled.

 

Ah, that makes more sense.  It sounded at first as if you were obsessing over something really trivial.  I was going to put a smiley face on your post, but the joke is on me.  I know nothing about veneering, but I’ve seen lots of threads about it on the Forum, so you should be able to find out everything you need here.  Have you considered using thicker plywood for the sidewalls, or adding a 1/4” layer of ply on top of the original sides?  Of course, if you’ve never had a resonance problem, it wouldn’t be worth the bother.

 

La Scala bass horns have a peak at 148 Hz.  Some people think this is related to the resonance issue (BTW, I’ve never noticed any resonance with mine), but it’s not, it’s because of the shape of the horn.  The proof of that is that the La Scala II bass horns, in spite of having side walls made of 1” MDF, which is much stiffer than the 3/4” plywood of the original La Scalas, still have the 148 Hz peak.

 

Whatever choices you make, good luck with your project.  And remember to work safe!

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10 minutes ago, Islander said:

 

Ah, that makes more sense.  It sounded at first as if you were obsessing over something really trivial.  I was going to put a smiley face on your post, but the joke is on me.  I know nothing about veneering, but I’ve seen lots of threads about it on the Forum, so you should be able to find out everything you need here.  Have you considered using thicker plywood for the sidewalls, or adding a 1/4” layer of ply on top of the original sides?  Of course, if you’ve never had a resonance problem, it wouldn’t be worth the bother.

 

La Scala bass horns have a peak at 148 Hz.  Some people think this is related to the resonance issue (BTW, I’ve never noticed any resonance with mine), but it’s not, it’s because of the shape of the horn.  The proof of that is that the La Scala II bass horns, in spite of having side walls made of 1” MDF, which is much stiffer than the 3/4” plywood of the original La Scalas, still have the 148 Hz peak.

 

Whatever choices you make, good luck with your project.  And remember to work safe!

Obsessing is actually a fairly large trait of mine. So you wouldn't be at all far off thinking it. 👍 

 

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8 hours ago, Islander said:

The proof of that is that the La Scala II bass horns, in spite of having side walls made of 1” MDF, which is much stiffer than the 3/4” plywood of the original La Scalas, still have the 148 Hz peak.

 

I thought the peak was caused by the parallel sides (doghouse and sidewalls). Does anyone know if the Peavey FH-1 has the same peak?

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3 minutes ago, Marvel said:

 

I thought the peak was caused by the parallel sides (doghouse and sidewalls). Does anyone know if the Peavey FH-1 has the same peak?

 

You may be right.  What is certain is that the upper bass peak is not caused by any flex that might occur in the bass horn side walls.  It’s caused by something about the shape of the horn.

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4 hours ago, Marvel said:

 

I thought the peak was caused by the parallel sides (doghouse and sidewalls). Does anyone know if the Peavey FH-1 has the same peak?

 

@moray james might know.  He seems to be quite knowledgeable on the FH-1.

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3 hours ago, avguytx said:

 

@moray james might know.  He seems to be quite knowledgeable on the FH-1.

the parallel section on either side of the dog house does absolutely nothing no gain because there is no profile expansion nothing, it is neutral  but it does provide some length. In the FH1 the first corners hacv a pair of corner reflectors which are intended to provide some additional response extension for a higher crossover and more output from the woofer. This is fine for a PA application but the corner reflectors are NOT desirable foe a home hifi application where you want the mid/bass horn to go away quickly and smoothly and allow a nice transition to the mid horn.  See attached info.

 

https://assets.peavey.com/literature/manuals/80301013.pdf

 

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I wondered about the square corners inside the La Scala bass horns, but then I realized that the horn is not a manifold on an engine.  Air is not rushing around the corners, it's just being jiggled by the woofer.  What you say about the square corners makes sense.  Interesting.  I've had the La Scalas for a long time, and I'm still learning some details about their design, which makes me appreciate them, and the work PWK put into them, more all the time.

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