High quality & rugged speaker cable recommendation?

[Islander]

On 12/26/2019 at 11:40 AM, hornsofplenty said:

Hi all,

 

Looking to shop for speaker cable (for use with McIntosh MC250 + Klipschorns) without breaking the bank: for best sound and rugged for repeated setup and break down of a sound system in multiple venues. Any recommendations – Amazon or pro audio shop, including in our local SoCal/LA area?

 

Thanks in adv!

 

For doing repeated setup and takedown, I'd strongly recommend that you look into Neutrik Speakon connectors for both ends of the cables.  It will be a bit of trouble to adapt the fittings on your Mac and Klipschorns to accept the Neutriks, but it will really be worth it.  I bought my Belles from the music department at UVic (University of Victoria), and they came with Neutrik connectors mounted on aluminum plates screwed to the backs of the speakers near the crossovers.

 

These were the first pair of Neutriks I'd actually seen, so I didn't have the corresponding male connectors to mate with them.  No problem; I headed to the local pro audio/concert sound shop and was able to buy matching male-female pairs (since I wasn't sure exactly which style of connectors were on the speakers.  They're available in 2-conductor, 4-conductor, and so on.) for only about $15 per pair.

 

What's really cool about them is their simplicity, safety, and foolproof design.  If you get the 4-conductor ones, instead of needing 2 RCA plugs (power and ground, or red and black) for each speaker, you need just one Neutrik connector.  There's never a struggle to connect or disconnect, since the design is push-and-turn.  Push the male connector into place and give it a little twist, then there's a little click as the connector locks into position.  To disconnect, there's a little metal slider (the lock) that you slide to unlock the connector, then you just twist and pull.  Easy!

 

So you have only one connector per speaker, a connector that fits only one way, so it can't be mixed up, that has no exposed live parts, that can be safely connected/disconnected in the dark, and there's no problem if you can't get to the back of the speaker and have to reach around it to connect or disconnect it without seeing the connector.  Also, the locking feature means that the speaker cord can't get accidentally pulled off the speaker, disrupting the show and leaving two live RCA plugs on the loose.  Neutriks are pro gear, so they're much more dependable than home audio gear.  This is crucial.

 

As for where to buy, the pro audio shop is where to go, because they'll know what you need.  In addition to passing current, you'll want speaker cables that will be scuff resistant and won't fail after being repeatedly stepped on and maybe run over by equipment or food or drink trolleys.  It will pay to develop a relationship with that shop, because they'll know more than they can tell you in a single visit.  As well, if you buy something from them and it doesn't work out, returns are much more convenient.

[glens]

So neither his Mac 250 amp nor his Khorns are equipped with speakon teminations...........got it.

 

Remember that he's going to be moving this stuff around evidently not just occasionally.  Sounds like a lot of work to me, but also like the possibility for cable snatches will be great(er).  I've recommended what I'd do.

 

The connectors described just above are precisely those I mentioned.

[polizzio]

1 hour ago, glens said:

 

 

 

Remember that he's going to be moving this stuff around evidently not just occasionally.  Sounds like a lot of work to me, but also like the possibility for cable snatches will be great(er).  I've recommended what I'd do.

 

The connectors described just above are precisely those I mentioned.

 

You are right, if the OP is moving them frequently like working parties or weddings, making and adapting aluminum plates with the speakon terminations are the way to go as Islander outlined above. Maybe he plans to DJ with his equipment. You know those spade terminals and wire are going to get severely yanked at some point (not a matter of if, but when), terminating the show, much less wearing em out from repetitively connecting/disconnecting. 

[glens]

Now you and I are on the same page!

[NBPK402]

I have been using Speakons too for my amp end, and now I will be using them for the Speaker end... I love them!

Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk

[Marvel]

12 hours ago, polizzio said:

You know those spade terminals and wire are going to get severely yanked at some point (not a matter of if, but when), terminating the show, much less wearing em out from repetitively connecting/disconnecting. 

 

I managed to strip the threads on one of the barrier strips in on of my LS when I took them out at Christmas. Besides replacing the barrier strip, I will be putting some Neutriks in each cabinet. I had intended to put them in before the party but ran out of time.

 

I've used the PowerCons before and they work great as well.

[glens]

3 hours ago, Marvel said:

I managed to strip the threads on one of the barrier strips in on of my LS ...

 

That's when you locate (borrow?) a few fine strands of wire and wrap the screw threads, right? 

[Marvel]

4 hours ago, glens said:

8 hours ago, Marvel said:

I managed to strip the threads on one of the barrier strips in on of my LS ...

 

That's when you locate (borrow?) a few fine strands of wire and wrap the screw threads, right? 

 

Would have worked ... but since I was back home and knew I would replace it, Iused a sheet metal screw. I had already decided I would redo the crossovers on a new board anyway. We'll see how long it takes for me to get it done. 🙄

[DizRotus]

8 hours ago, Marvel said:

I will be putting some Neutriks in each cabinet.

 

Now you’re talkin’ Bruce.  Got to keep the Liechtenstein economy humming.

 

Gradually all of my speakers and amps are being converted to Neutrik Speakon connectors.  No more, barrier strips, binding posts, or banana plugs for this guy, just positive polarized connections that can be operated with one hand in the dark.

 

Notice the audiophool grade zip cord visible in the center photo. PWK would be pleased.

 

 

 

[glens]

2 hours ago, Marvel said:

 

Would have worked ... but since I was back home and knew I would replace it, Iused a sheet metal screw. I had already decided I would redo the crossovers on a new board anyway. We'll see how long it takes for me to get it done. 🙄

 

Better at "back home" than at "setting up for the party"! (which is what would've happened for me)

 

Get what done?  Sounds like you've already fixed it.

[Marvel]

23 minutes ago, glens said:

Get what done?  Sounds like you've already fixed it.

 

 If I don't move them... I have wanted to redo the DHA1 crossovers anyway. I could just unhook al the wires and reverse the position of the barrier strip as it has two extra positions on the left end. That would be the easiest and cost nothing but time. A Speakon AND two heavier terminals would let me hook up plain wire OR a speakon.

 

Right now it's working so I can relax and listen to music.

[NBPK402]

I am doing the same thing with my setup...all Powercon connectors for power, XLRs for inputs, and SpeakOn connectors for the amp end, and most of the speakers too.

Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk

[MechEngVic]

I'm always impressed with the polarization caused by wire.

 

Some of us swear by the improvements made by this or that component, speaker driver, or crossover, but use lamp cord. Others say nothing matters, everything sounds the same, but trust a company to make their wires for them and will pay a premium. And every combination in between.

 

Everybody talks about the MINIMUM requirements for current to pass through a wire, "All you need is 680ga lamp cord for 6 million volts and a jillion amps and that'll doo'er!". No one talks about what is the BEST way to transfer current over longer distances, no one talks about resistance vs. inductance vs. capacitance of different gauges of wire, and no one especially talks about the transfer conductance of copper vs. other materials, and I've never read a single comment about electron drift speed of wire and the materials that conduct electrons best.

 

Bottom line: Silver is the best conductor, copper second best. Resistance vs. inductance vs. capacitance considered: Thicker wire is better.

 

MHO: I've never been able to hear a difference between connectors vs. no connectors, but I did hear a difference between 16ga an 10ga OFC copper.

 

I'm with Jeffery Medwin on this one: The best wire you can use is Mil Spec m22759/11 silver plated, multi stranded copper wire with a tough PTFE dielectric. It's cheap, its super tough, it's easy to run through a thicker jacket if you want to use it in high stress areas, and you are basically using the best material you can use other than pure silver.