Deang Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 Help and direction much appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 Wow you bought new K-Horns......and you didnt post pics,,,shame on you...lol...but false corners should be easy to build,,,depends on how nice you want them,,,,i would make them heavy with a base to seal the K-horn to like Andy has talked about...with grippers,silicone....when did you get these babies???rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 9, 2003 Author Share Posted December 9, 2003 I won't have them for quite some time actually. I won't even have the cash scraped together until the end of the month. Since they are built to order, I probably won't have them until March. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frzninvt Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 Dean is dreaming again, he does not have the Khorns yet (that I know of) but is hoping to score them in '04. If you have the Dope from Hope data that Justin put together for us there is a section dedicated to False Corners that explains exactly how to construct a set of them. Can't recall off hand if all the dimensions were provided but I a reasonably certain that they were. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 9, 2003 Author Share Posted December 9, 2003 I don't have the data. Would you be willing to make me a copy and mail me that single section? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBusa Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 take a look at the pic of edsters false corners in the recent rosewood k horn post. Those look a little over done but they are beautiful! here ya go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 Dean, Rather than a full false corner you could build a baffle the height of the bass bin or top that extends only up to the fabric side panel for the horn near the window. It would not need to be any longer than that since the window wall will carry out the horn. Since it is expanding the horn, not narrowing it there should be no loss of bass response and it won't block your window. The picture is of lynnm's Khorn and his window. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobile homeless Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 http://www.mindspring.com/~edwhitesell/false%20corner%20instructions.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 Thus! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 The intent of the false corner is NOT to EXTEND the BASS horn, but, rather, is to COMPLETE the k-horn's BASS HORN LENS. In order to get the full function from the K-horn bass bins, you need a full false corner...extending up, at a MINIMUM to seal to the side edges of the bass-horn top panel. The baffle shown above is inadequate to correctly complete the bass horn lens in its proper dimensional format. Go with the full false corner to correctly provide the basshorn lens, ensuring that the K-horn is tightly fit into the corner and sealed along its edges(including its bottom!). Keep in mind that the floor itself(in this case a floor for your false corner) is ALSO a part of the complete bass horn lens!...Would you lay carpet on the inside bottom part of your k-horn mid-range horn lens? I think NOT! Then don't do it for the bottom of the bass horn lens, either! Hint, Hint! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 9, 2003 Author Share Posted December 9, 2003 Lynnm's livingroom looks like mine. That is exactly the situation I am facing. It looks to me like the fabric side of the K-horn is higher/taller than the window-ledge. How do you "cover" it without losing part of the window? How many inches tall does it take to seal the sides? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cornell Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 Thank you Gil, after i think ill work on building some. Regards Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cornell Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 Dean I have 1 taking almost half the window up to the metal bar that goes between top and bottom window, and the other is against the window. I put the earthquake subs in the bass bins now that the Klipschorns are shaking the walls at 24Hz or under id better watch these windows, im ganna build the false corners and simply place the K-33s back in, and see if the Klipschorns produce better low end, if not then my K-33s might have seen there days! These are Bi amped, the standard crossovers in the Klipschorns will not work with this setup, the woofers arent as efficient, and take to much power! Regards Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cornell Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 I know crazy but man oh man LOL Im always crazy Regards Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 9, 2003 Author Share Posted December 9, 2003 Bet that sounds pretty good with the butyl surrounds squashed against the motorboards. Yeah, you are nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryC Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 ---------------- On 12/9/2003 11:22:33 AM DeanG wrote: Lynnm's livingroom looks like mine. That is exactly the situation I am facing. It looks to me like the fabric side of the K-horn is higher/taller than the window-ledge. How do you "cover" it without losing part of the window? How many inches tall does it take to seal the sides? ---------------- The answer to your last question is probably up to the top of the bass bin, at the bottom of the decorative inset as seen from the front. If your sitution is like Lynnm's, there seem to be several issues. You'll need to get the tailboard set firmly into A corner. That means being able to slide the speaker all the way into A flush wall on the left as well as the right. I see two barriers: one, the window sill, which could be got around by cutting out part of the side grill under its grill cloth cover, relatively easy. However, the vertical window molding, assuming it projects out from the wall, may be a lot more challenging -- it would keep the speaker from being moved flush into the wall, because it butts up against (1) the top and (2) the shelf on top of the bass bin, which has the SAME shape and dimensions as the top. This is a feature easily seen by looking at the horn from the side or back. I can understand you (and probably Lynnm) not wanting to build a full extra wall as depicted in DFH. I didn't, either, for decor reasons. So, instead, I suspect you'd have to either: (1) cut two chunks out of the vertical window molding, at the levels of the speaker and bass bin top to let them slide all the way into the wall (and fill them in or replace the molding when the speakers are moved elsewhere) -- this would also require cutting into the side grill -- OR (2) fill in the wall with panels to bring it out flush with the molding. This can get complicated; it might take one panel cut the width of the distance between the vertical molding and the corner -- AND cut at the bottom to fit over the baseboard! -- PLUS a panel cut to fill in below the window sill, but shaped to cover both the bottom of the sill AND the bassboard, PLUS another small one to fill in the gap above the sill and up to the top of the bass bin. I would suggest considering the last in any case, since window glass is said to be transparent to low frequencies. No. 1 above is just theoretical on my part. I only had to cut a side grill away to slide into a window sill on one side. But, on the other, I did have to build in a couple of panels. Just thinking about what I had to go through in doing panels, it SEEMS easier to cut pieces out of the vertical molding (and the grill frame). However, I haven't really done that myself. Finally, the be sure that whatever you do WILL allow the tailboard to slide FULLY back into either the real or the paneled-up corner -- very important! Hope something here helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 9, 2003 Author Share Posted December 9, 2003 I'm buying Heresies. Very helpful. Sounds like the baseboards need to be modified too. I think for now, false corners are the way to. The livingroom won't be ready until the end of next summer, and I will need them for upstairs until then. The false corners facilate some placement options too -- which is good. If they're good enough for PK, they're good enough for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 Yet again, somebody is ignoring the COMPLETION of the bass horn lens, itself. The corner, in this case with a window extending down into the area where a portion of the bass horn lens needs completion, is not really a factor when using false corners. You are creating a complete false corner in order to COMPLETE the bass horn lens of the speaker...therefore, since the false corner in its proper dimensions provides this corner, you do not have to have the k-horns in the corner of the room itself, instead you can place them anywhere away from that corner, even toe them inward or outward to provide a more central coverage for your listening position. The simple answer is to build the false corners COMPLETE as in the drawings, and have the k-horn by the window in its false corner just sit away from the window a bit. Apparently, there are those who just don't understand the intended function of the corner for the bass bin of the K-horn. Once again, the corner is NOT used to EXTEND the bass horn lens, but it is used to COMPLETE the bass horn lens...therefore it is imperative that it be a COMPLETE corner extending at a minimum to the front of the bass bin on either side...and PREFERABLY at least four feet out from the corner joint of the false corners. Look at it this way...the tailboard is a REFLECTING SURFACE where the bifurcated pathway of the horn BENDS AND ROTATES ninety degrees, firing forward along the walls and floor, which are an integral part of the Horn lens itself, and also provide the final horn flare rate for the horn...to allow the soundpathway to come out either side of the bass bin in a bifurcated manner. The outside sides of the bass bin itself become the inside sides of the incomplete bass horn...the portion of the top panel of the bass bin that extends to either side of the bass bin side panels becomes the top panel of the incomplete bass horn, the walls become the outside panels of the incomplete bass horn lens, and the floor on either side of the bass bin becomes the lower panels of the incomplete basshorn lens. In other words, if you do not have a complete corner for the bass bin to sit into, then you do not have a complete bass horn LENS...thereby severely compromising the FUNCTION of the K-horn's bass horn! UNDERSTAND? If not, then I will come back to this thread later on and post a graphic representation of how the K-horn bass lens works. I have some business to attend to right now, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cornell Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 If you think i actually squashed the surrounds against the motor board thats funny, its cut out the diameter of the surround giving me 2 1/2 inches play LOL Yep nuts Regards Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 9, 2003 Author Share Posted December 9, 2003 I thought you were "stupid"? Nice post, thanks Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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