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So how do you think these Khorns are going to look?


greg928gts

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RWKhorn g.jpg

This is a picture of one of the bass bins right after I got done trimming the veneer and doing the initial sanding to 120 grit. It's got a long way to go with sanding and finish, but I think it looks pretty cool just the same.

Here's a link to the webpage and the whole pain in the arse story.

Walnut Klipschorns now becoming Brazilian Rosewood Klipschorns.

Greg

post-11090-13819263737152_thumb.jpg

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Wow, that rosewood grain is wild. Nice job Greg.

I was very interested, and I must say a little disappointed, in how your the walnut Khorns turned out. My Khorns need the exact same treatment, new edge banding and a sanding job. I love the current grain pattern on my bass bins, and don't really want to do a re-veneer job on these speakers. I was really hoping that you would find the new edge banding did a nice job, but it appears that the result was sort of what I expected might happen with mine.

Any of the walnut banding that I have seen is pretty light in colour, I think the banding job may work if I can find a bit of a darker colour. What do you think?

Thanks for posting.

-PB

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Thanks for the positive feedback guys. I wasn't quite sure with this veneer, it's quite dark, darker than in that picture, so I'm still a little skeptical about the final outcome.

I'm concerned that the oil may darken it even more. I'm tempted to put a very clear finish on, but with the oils in Rosewood, I don't think that would work all that well. Anyone have any ideas on a very clear oil finish that won't darken the wood?

This Rosewood is very hard to work with. I really had a hard time with that panel. There were two times where the veneer buckled on me and it's sitting there humped up 1/2" and it won't go down! OMG CRISIS, HEART POUNDING WHATAMIGONNADO! But somehow I managed to get it down and fix the broken areas, patch in a couple of little pieces. The grain is so busy that you don't really even notice the repairs. A little wood filler will be needed. I'll be getting the artist brush out before it's all over. I don't recommend this for beginners. In fact, I'm rethinking the raw wood veneer thing a little. Jeff's Khorns were really easy to do with the backed veneer and contact cement on the large panels and then raw wood for the edgebanding. The only real issue is matching colors between the two.

I think a lot of people are having problems with edgebanding on walnut Khorns. The glue just didn't hold up past two decades and it just peels right off. The only thing I can say is that if someone wants to re-edgeband, look around for different veneers and be prepared to buy several before finding the right one. If I wasn't having the blotchiness problem with these, I would have looked around for different veneer, something with a reddish tone. Bleaching the veneer worked well, but it wouldn't take a stain afterwards, only very lightly.

Greg

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That veneer is telling a story and everyone sees it differently. I think that's what I like so much about rosewood. The veneer came from B+B Rare Woods.

Rockets - I used the iron-on method with Titebond II wood glue. I didn't notice this veneer shrinking, but I have had that problem with other veneers, especially oak. I noticed that the oak soaked up more of the glue, so when it was heated, it shrunk more. The rosewood has a lot of oil in it, so it doesn't soak up the glue as much. I did have problems with taping the seams tight together, so I have gaps. I'll just have to woodfill and perhaps use paint with an artists brush to hide those flaws. I think the next panel will be better, I finally figured out a good way to cut veneer with a saw so my cuts are right on straight. See the webpage for details.

Greg

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----------------

On 3/27/2005 10:49:03 AM fini wrote:

If I am not mistaken, I see the image of the Madonna. Or, is that Madonna? I think I hear eBay calling...
----------------

That's too funny Fini. Then Greg can sell the iron that veneered the Madonna.

Beautiful work Greg. Thanks for the risers too by the way. Sorry I haven't got a pic off to you yet, but trust me, they match great!

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Thanks Greg. I've heard there are issues w/ seams, and I'd like to learn from others experiences before I start. I plan to play with some Maple and Burl...I'm not sure what to expect.

I saw your cutting method, which made me wonder if for those of us with out a brake, if two pieces of Aluminum angel clamped on either side of the veneer might suffice?

Thanks again

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Greg,

Check out these two websites. I'm sure you can find new ideas here. Luthier supplies and all. THey work with high oil content woods all the time (rosewood being one of them).

The first is the musical instrument makers forum. Browse around and look at some of the instruments these guys make. They are FULL of tips and help. You have to crete a login account to view some of this stuff.

Musical Instrument Makers Forum

The next is Luthiers Mercantile International. Check out the home page with the ad for KTM-9. A water based finish.

LMI

Hope this helps. You really have to seal the rosewood.

Here is a pic from the mimf. If I remember correctly, this is one of his first guitars. Eucalyptus back and sides with a cedar top.

EucBod.gif

EucBack.gif

Marvel

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Rockets, if your veneer pieces are flat, cut straight, and not too big, you shouldn't have any problems with gaps. The problem I'm having with this Rosewood is that it's very bubbly and warped, so even though my cuts are straight, it's not going together perfectly. Also, my veneer tape is not holding real good, I think I need to find something different.

Thanks Marvel.

Greg

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