chuckears Posted September 26, 2001 Share Posted September 26, 2001 I have been the proud owner of a pair of Klipsch Fortes (oiled oak)for over 12 years now... I have used Formby's Lemon Oil all that time, but am wondering if there is a better choice; something to give them more lustre? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Garrison Posted September 26, 2001 Share Posted September 26, 2001 Formby's tung oil. See response to your post in the other forum (two channel audio?) ------------------ Music is art Audio is engineering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Phillips Posted September 26, 2001 Share Posted September 26, 2001 Try Watco Rejuvinating oil.It can be found at Home Depot.Been using it for 11 years on all my Klipsch.Nice luster.And it stays on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffgeorge Posted October 13, 2001 Share Posted October 13, 2001 I agree, go with Watco. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Songer Posted October 13, 2001 Share Posted October 13, 2001 I've had great luck with gun stock oil followed with gun stock wax. I know that Herman Miller uses this on all of their walnut furniture and it really provides just the right amount of lustre. I can't reccomend this process highly enough. Any good sporting goods store or gun shop has it and it's cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschguy Posted October 13, 2001 Share Posted October 13, 2001 I like mixing minwax stain, tung oil and mineral spirits (1:1:1), then using #OOOO steel wool soaked in the stuff (hint: wear gloves). Apply with a light buffing action, let sit 5 minutes, buff the heck out the cabinets with one of your wife's good bath towels, let sit 24 hours, rebuff with a dry towel. Results are outstanding. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Warren Posted October 13, 2001 Share Posted October 13, 2001 use what JBL used for 40 years. 2 parts boiled linseed oil to 1 part terpentine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myram Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 Is there a Klipsch recommended oil? I have been using Weiman's Lemon Oil polish with sunscreen on my speakers and it seems to work well. I have been told to use a lemon oil with no waxes or silicones in it and that would work fine. But I am curious......what does Klipsch use on their speakers? ------------------ Home Theater Page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougdrake2 Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 Steve - What SPF level is that sunscreen? Does it protect the speakers from UV meltdown when you're using them out by the pool (LOL)? DD2 This message has been edited by dougdrake2 on 10-18-2001 at 10:40 AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J M O N Posted October 31, 2002 Share Posted October 31, 2002 Formby's Lemon Oil? Formby's tung oil? Watco Rejuvinating oil? Gun stock oil? Gun stock wax? Minwax stain, tung oil and mineral spirits? 2 parts boiled linseed oil to 1 part terpentine? Weiman's Lemon Oil polish? Old English red oil? So which one of these works best without leaving residue that will have to be stripped off later? I'm looking to oil my Walnut Oiled cabinents, but don't want to have to do any sanding during applicaiton or stripping of the finish later on down the road. Thanks for your suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Garrison Posted October 31, 2002 Share Posted October 31, 2002 I am not familiar with most of those products, so this may not be much help. I used Formby's Tung Oil on my KG-4 cabinets (Oak) when I bought them new in 1985. It is still protecting them to this day. Repels water, doesn't yellow, I've been very pleased with it. If you do go this route, be sure you open the bottle and look inside before you leave the store. Stock doesn't turn over very fast, and the stuff will turn to something the consistency of play-doh sitting on the shelf. Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougdrake Posted October 31, 2002 Share Posted October 31, 2002 And I've used Watco's on my Walnut Forte's and KG4s. It brought a real lustre to the Forte's, so they almost glow with warmth. For about a week, I put a coat on every day, 'cause they were kind of dry when I got them. DD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted October 31, 2002 Share Posted October 31, 2002 Ok....let's just take a few minutes here and learn some things about some of these different recommendations: 1. Lemon oil...Lemon oils are a CLEANSING agent oil, NOT an oil finish. They contain citric acid and are great for cleaning off any of the gunk that tends to build up on oiled finishes, but ARE NOT the best thing to be applying on a REGULAR BASIS. The citric acid in the lemon oil also tends to DRY out the veneer over time...not a good thing...it also will tend to break down the glue substrate that holds the veneer onto the wood it is glued to!! Use lemon oils once or twice a year, to wipe the cabinets down with and remove some of the grunge that tends to build up on the oil finish...that's all!! Tung oil finishes....Tung oil is an old time- proven finish in itself, but is NOT the thing you are supposed to use on an oil finish. If you want a tung oil finish, then it is not an oil finish you are looking for, but it is rather a finish akin to varnish you are seeking! Tung oil provides a varnish like finish that is relatively waterproof, and may be applied over and over, but it will NOT be the same as a traditional oil finish!! Boiled linseed oil...Boiled linseed oil is one of the oldest wood finishes there is. Almost ALL of the so-called "oil finishes" are based on boiled linseed oil base. The base is normally complemented with the addition of a dye or color leveler now-a-days, since darker woods are not always quite a match with each other in the building process as they once were!! Boiled linseed oil has been used for oil finishes for over 6,000 years(yes, you read that correctly!!!...6,000 years!!! Some of the ancient Egyptian furniture found was finished in an oil finish using boiled linseed oil!!!) Linseed oil comes from the flax plant...the same plant linen is made from the fibers of! It is the most traditional of the oils for oiled finishes. It is a bit messy, and it needs to be applied to the point that it is tacky on the surface, then rubbed down AGAIN with an oil finish pad 24 hours later! It has been the choice for oil finish gunstocks and furniture in the furniture industry for over 300 years!! Other oils....every company out there has some con game going over which oil is best...but the best thing to use is what was originally used... And that is boiled linseed oil!! Besides, boiled linseed oil is inexpensive as hell, too!! It is normally thinned with a bit of turpentine before use. Use whatever you want...I am just trying to clarify what some of these other oils are all about!! As for any oil finish speakers or fine furniture I will ever have, I will take the boiled linseed oil!! 6,000 years of successful use are good enough for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCturboT Posted October 31, 2002 Share Posted October 31, 2002 And that is boiled linseed oil!! Besides, boiled linseed oil is inexpensive as hell, too!! It is normally thinned with a bit of turpentine before use. ---------------- Gee...that means I can do my wood gutters AND my Walnut Oiled Klipschorns TOO! Who whoulda thunk it!!! Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunnysal Posted November 1, 2002 Share Posted November 1, 2002 errrrmmm, how long do I boil it for?...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Warren Posted November 1, 2002 Share Posted November 1, 2002 Actually..... raw linseed oil is put in a vacuum chamer and de-gassed to remove oxygen that is in the oil. the vacuum casues the oil to *boil* as the air is pulled from it. The process is done for two reasons 1) to make it less flammable and 2) to make it possible to add additives called "drying agents" to the oil to make it dry faster. Raw linseed oil takes weeks to cure, boiled take a few days. Raw linseed oil is prone to auto-combustion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cut-Throat Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 Well, I have just purchased a pair of Klipsch Belles. They have beautiful cabinets in perfect shape. Corners and edges very sharpe. But the finish in old, dry and dull. Needed some lustre. I got some Watco rejunvinating oil and it did little to bring out the magic of the oak veneer. So I went back to my tried and true 100% tung oil. Coated it 3 times, 0000 steel wool in between and the magic is back. Don't forget to keep the steel wool fragments from the drivers magnets. Cleanup and careful sanding is important. Make sure the coat of tung oil is completely dry before sanding and re-applying the next coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 Well...Cutthroat....you NOW have a tung oil finish on your Belles....NOT an oil finish!! There is absolutely nothing wrong with a tung oil finish...but it is NOT a traditional oil finish as the speakers originally came with...BUT instead is a completely different kind of finish in itself!! Tung oil finishes are kinda a cross between a varnish kind of finish and an oil finish...but they are NOT an oil finish!! There are water-based wipe-on satin urethanes now-a-days that are much better than tung oil and give the same basic results...but with no need for re-application over time as tung oil finishes eventually require!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cut-Throat Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 Ok HDBR,- you are probably correct. But I sure like the Tung Oil Finish. - But, I do have a question. What kind of oil is a traditional oil finish? And which do you prefer? It seems that whatever was on the belles originally has worn out also. It is very dull, lifeless and dried out. The only thing that I tried that couold bring it back to life was 100% tung oil. I don't know if tung oil is traditional or not, but I have used it with great results on many wood projects. And I have got to believe it is traditional for some folks in some parts of the world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 I once had a pair of Marantz speakers that had an oiled walnut finish. Once a year I would oil them up about twice with lemon oil (which was labeled petroleum distillates!) from Formby's, I think. My sister has them and they still look great, and work! They must be 25 years old by now. I'm sure this just throws oil on the fire, but I believe that's all a good finish needs. I may have only been giving them a mild cleaning, but I liked the results. I also NEVER put Endust or any other similar product on them. Dust with a dry cloth only. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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