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Another Hundred Days of Jubilee Ownership


Chris A

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I am interested in using the Jubilee in a Home Theater project we are working on. The customer loves to play music as well as movies.Who sells them? I would need three. We can build cabinets if that makes sense,but it looks complex?

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  • 1 year later...

Since you brought it up, what lower frequency did you have in mind (in Hz)? Could you give me an example recording, by title?

I think flat to 26Hz (so an F3 below 26Hz) would be a good place to start...

Mike,

After setting up the tapped horn subs and tweaking them with the Jubs, I'm of the opinion that you are being a bit conservative with that 26 Hz estimate. I'd put it at a lower freq now: the lower system Fc really adds a lot to the 2-channel and 5 channel experience.

Replacing the K69s with TADs doesn't hurt either: it sounds like "hi-fi" all over the room--side-to-side, front-to-back. And the TADs do a lot more than just sound better on the high end...

Chris

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While the author is aware of the danger of generalization in this subject, in his view, horn-loaded enclosures are not capable of top class subjective quality and most designs are inferior to typical direct-radiator systems.

It is a shame that the uninformed will buy this pseudo-scientific treatise on loudspeakers and believe this drivel. Perhaps if the author would actually listen to a good set of modern horn loaded speakers instead of repeating Robert Harley's BS he would have a different opinion. But then his book would likely not get a favorable review in The Absolute Sound, a periodical that reviews, then endorses products such as Shakti Stones, cable elevators, and brass weights to dampen vibrations within a solid state amplifier.

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I am running three amplifiers, so I suppose I need three Shakti stones for my setup, right? Roll-eyes


Only if you're not using Dark Field Cable Elevators to keep vibration and static fields away from your speaker cables. [;)]

Considering how many of the over-$100,000-per-pair speakers are of horn design, and sound really good, you'd think the primary drawback of horn speakers is their high price.
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to dampen vibrations within a solid state amplifier.

I'm sure the volume control vibrates a little when it's turned, no?

Wow, I didn't think about that. I am running three amplifiers, so I suppose I need three Shakti stones for my setup, right? Roll-eyes

I had to put racketball balls under the feet of my CD player to make it not skip....does that count??

Chuck

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  • 1 year later...

Well, having passed the "Jubilees of a Thousand Days" mark, some thoughts to share.

 

First off, it occurs to me that many here are either polarized on this issue (Jubs), and the rest of the readers don’t know anything about them. I let my ears be the guide, and I figure that any “us vs. them” arguments really don’t matter. These speakers are the best that I’ve ever heard, but I limit my ear-shopping to speakers that cost less than 15K/pair, since I don’t think that I’ll ever be in the market for anything more expensive than that.

 

Note that new Jubs can probably be had for slightly less than new Khorns—in your basic black finish. They're a lot less expensive than new cars or big bass boats, and they will last for the remainder of my life. If you are interested in PWK’s last speaker design, let me know. They’re pretty special, IMHO.

 

Room position:

 

About mid-summer, Roy Delgado mentioned that having anything between the the Jubs really affects imaging performance (...he wasn't kidding, BTW). I now have the Jubs pulled out from the front wall about 16" and pulled inwards toward the center about 5" from the side walls.

 

The space behind the Jubs is now filled with tapped-horn subs in each corner, which forms a false corner behind the Jubs. The side gaps are now filled with bass-trap panels. This forms the other side of a false corner, but provides a gap behind the back of the Jub bin in which the mouth of the subs can feed with the back of the Jubs and the side bass trap panels forming a kind of tapped-horn path extension. I used Audyssey to set up the delays and the levels only, not EQ. Note that I'm using active crossover for the Jubs and the center channel. The difference in imaging is like that between the living and the dead.

 

BTW, this technique will also work for Khorns, but you’ll have to push the Khorns back into the subs a bit tighter. :o

 

Room EQ:

 

I did fairly extensive room EQ testing alternately using a Behringer DEQ2496 (auto-EQ function), dialing in the EQ settings into the active crossovers, and then Room EQ Wizard (REW) to check the results. I now have a good response at the listening positions. This made a large difference in lf response, since there were some really large response peaks in the 20-120 Hz band from Jubs and tapped horns. The resulting lf response now starts to rise starting about 100 Hz and continuing down to about 18 Hz. There is a BIG difference in listening.

 

HF Drivers:

 

I'm actually sorry to report that the TAD TD-4002s really do make a very large difference on the hf end. Big, big difference–so much so that I don’t like to emphasize it. Sell stock or some tube gear—these Be-diaphragm drivers are worth it—my advice is to not skimp on this point if you’re considering Jubs. The stock K-69-As that come with the Jubs from Hope will hold you for a little while…

 

Listener comments:

 

Since I made these changes, I can now hear really small differences in imaging, tonal balance, and recording quality of the source material (which can be a bad thing if you’re a perfectionist). I started a thread on demonstration disks because of this, and Amazon now has some more of my money—I bet that I acquired a dozen more disks because of that thread.

 

I have owned a few models of speakers from acoustic suspension to planar, but nothing on the planet (that I've heard) can compare to what I listen to every day. I’ll also say that the tapped-horn subs integrate seamlessly and add that critical bottom octave to the experience. They allow me to move the Jubs slightly out of the corners for dramatically increased imaging. ANYTHING between the speakers affects imaging, and Jubs should be the least affected by this phenomenon because of the K-402 horns and their constant coverage. Note that this is probably the key difference in the sound of the Jubs from Khorns.

 

If I had it over to do again: I’d do it the very same way, except that I wouldn’t wait so long to get better electronics, hf drivers and tapped-horn subs.

 

Chris

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Very good description, I know there much better but Tad's aren't going to make it here, if I want to keep breathing.

For people who don't know I do not have jubs........but an older relative but the same top horn, and I love them, they will spoil you. I was happy listening to my Forte's for music before, but it's really hard not to switch to the other speakers even listening to multi channel DVD's in 2 CH most of the time.

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Chris,

Sorry if I miised any discusion about your tapped-horn subs, but please tell us (me) about them.

Did you build them from scratch, build a Danley kit, or buy pre-made?

After looking at the Danely page, the TH Spud looks maybe do-able, it is big but shallow, similar to how your profile pic shows your system?

[st] MORE pictures on us...

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Did you build them from scratch, build a Danley kit, or buy pre-made?

DIY:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1698483

The drivers are Tang Band W8-740P (8" diameter):

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-854&FTR=w8%20740&CFID=542086&CFTOKEN=79351136

I'll look around for some pix.

Chris

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Pic of a Jub in front of a sub -- in this case, I was trying two bass traps on the outside. I'm now using just one panel.

post-28404-13819618575178_thumb.jpg

Edited by Cask05
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